As I indicated, I am going to keep an eye on the pad to see if that cut pad 
delaminates from the interior metal frame.

On the same note. All of the standard road shoes have a set screw in them. 
Removing the set screw gives me an extra 4 mm of clearance for removing a 
wheel. I can't figure out what damage removing the set screw could do.
 The pad is not going to slide off the front of the break shoe holder as the 
front of the holder is closed. The pad will not back out of the holder because 
friction from the wheel pushes the pad forward.












________________________________
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on 
behalf of Cormac O'Keeffe <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2025 12:29 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne front wheel removal


I looked around online before asking here, but I couldn't really find out why 
v-brake pads are longer than sidepull or cantilever brakes in the first place. 
Would running shorter pads create a problem ?

On Mon, 23 June 2025, 19:27 Bernard Duhon, 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

















I have four bikes and eight sets of wheels. It's like having eight bikes.  so 
removing the wheels is important.

 I purchased the Koolstop city Tread brake shoe. It was still too long so  I 
got out  my hack saw and sawed off a centimeter.    The internal metal frame is 
visible. I intend on riding the bike as the sawed-off portion is forward facing
 After having to sawed the city thread. I dug out a Koolstop V brake and took a 
hack saw to it.  The same internal metal frame.
I am no longer required to deflate the tires to removal wheel.  Which is great.
I will however I will keep an eye on these brakes to see if they deconstruct on 
me.















________________________________
From: 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> 
on behalf of Garth <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2025 1:13 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne front wheel removal

For the heck of it I cut and pried the rubber off one the pads on an Eagle 
Claw. It appears the pad holders may be dipped in a mold and rubber poured in 
and that fills all the cavities of the holder. You can see where I cut off the 
end portion of the pad and filed it down using a heavy metal file, by hand. To 
cut the pad I've used both Fiskars utility shears and a Snap-On Linesman 
pliers. Modified just enough so it clears the frame. I don't have any other 
kind of pad so I can't speak to anything else, but I assume any threaded KS pad 
would also have some sort of internal frame for strength and stability. There's 
no loss of braking in using a shorter pad either.

With the Odyssey pads I suppose for one's own reference you could buy all three 
compounds and see what does what as descriptions can't depict actual usage for 
given riders setup.

 https://shop.odysseybmx.com/products/odyssey-ghost-pads



On Friday, June 20, 2025 at 8:24:29 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
I once used a power tool (angle grinder or dremel) to shorten a brake pad, and 
my garage smelled like burnt rubber for the rest of the day.

Eric

On Fri, Jun 20, 2025 at 8:14 AM Garth <[email protected]> wrote:

There's also the option for modifying the pads that come with the brakes, as in 
using a shears and/or hacksaw to shorten them. I shorten the Koll-Stop Eagle 
Claw smooth post pads.There's an internal metal frame around the rubber. I 
can't say what kind of frame if any is on any other pad, so that would require 
cutting one apart and seeing what's inside. Holding the pad in a bench vice 
makes it easier to work with. Once cut and/or sawed off, use a metal file to 
smooth the edges. Only the portion that hits the frame need be modified, but it 
doesn't hurt if shortened on both ends. This way one can still use their 
preferred compound without having to resort to deflating a tire just to remove 
it, which to me is just insane to design a brake that would require that.
On Thursday, June 19, 2025 at 11:45:56 PM UTC-4 J wrote:
A BMX friends told me long ago that the Odyssey pads can leave marks on rims 
because they are soft, so he use the clear colored... uncolored pads

On Thursday, June 19, 2025 at 7:06:00 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
The brand of pads Riv sells are in the description Odyssey Ghost pads, 
available from them direct or many BMX retailers.

On Thursday, June 19, 2025 at 5:57:54 PM UTC-4 [email protected] wrote:
I haven't tried these, but they're similar to what Nick and Bill mentioned and 
they seem to take road pads.
https://jagwire.com/products/brake-pads/cross-rim-brake-pads

On Tuesday, June 17, 2025 at 7:18:47 PM UTC+2 Bill Lindsay wrote:
Rivendell used to sell "Sanity Brake Pads" to address this issue directly.  
They are out of stock at Riv now, but various stubby brake pads are available 
from BMX-adjacent sellers for exactly this use case.  If it were me, I would 
run a set of Kool Stop VANs brake shoes.  I trust Kool Stop, and I love VANs, 
and I think it would be a fun and ironic set up choice on a Rivendell build 
which would still result in excellent braking.  Lots of fun colors and a cheap 
$10 experiment.

https://www.danscomp.com/kool-stop-vans-brake-pads-threaded-sky-blue-pair-ks-vblu/p619844

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Sunday, June 15, 2025 at 8:46:45 AM UTC-7 [email protected] wrote:
Hi all,

I'm having trouble removing the front wheel on my Sam because it won't fit past 
the v-brakes even after opening the quick release. I have to actually loosen a 
brake pad and move it out of the way to squeeze the wheel through. Strangely, I 
don't have this issue with the rear wheel it comes off easily once the noodle 
is disengaged.

I'm running fairly wide tires (700c x 45), which might be part of the problem. 
Has anyone else run into this? Is there a way to adjust the v-brakes so I don't 
have to go through this every time I remove the front wheel?


Thanks!
Masood

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