I like rear mounted stands a lot. They are heavier from my experience but 
being able to move around without worrying about the crankset hitting the 
kickstand is a nice touch for the bike parking at work.

On Monday, May 25, 2026 at 1:57:27 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Agree that the plate is not structurally significant.
>
> Perhaps an alternative: I’ve read more than a few threads on this list 
> about kickstand plates breaking, or kickstand clamps denting stays. 
>
> I’ve never used a kickstand when touring (because I’ve never bike toured) 
> but I’ve used central 2-leg, central 1-leg, and left dropout mount stands 
> extensively for carrying heavy rear grocery loads, and after trying 2 or 3 
> hot-choice 2-leg stands — expensive ones; I forget who made them, but one 
> had particularly wide legs when extended) I ended up with a cheap 
> Greenfield left rear dropout stand that actually worked better with heavy 
> (20+ lb per side) rear loads, especially if the load was assymetric. (And, 
> with a fixed gear errand runner, you could wheel the bike thru the store 
> with the stand down, ready to prop it up as you reached for things on the 
> top shelves.)
>
> Centrally mounted 1-leg stands are useless, IME, unless the ground is 
> perfectly flat and paved over.
>
> I personally don’t use kickstands andy more, but if I were to add one I’d 
> use a chainstay mount stand.
>
> I’m curious what others think of chainstay mount stands …?
>
> On Mon, May 25, 2026 at 10:40 AM J J <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hi Drew. The kickstand plate is not really providing any structural 
>> support to the frame — many Rivendell models didn’t even have them — so the 
>> bike is completely safe to ride.
>>
>> It’s actually fairly common for these plates to crack, peel away from, or 
>> shear off the chainstays on Rivendells. It happened on one of mine as well. 
>> Will at Riv told me it was nothing to worry about structurally. Riv later 
>> reinforced the design of these plates, which made them less prone to 
>> cracking or separating.
>>
>> That said, it is unsightly, and you don’t want corrosion to deepen over 
>> time. I would either:
>>
>> 1. Treat the rust with a rust converter to stabilize it and create a 
>> protective surface that could then be painted, or
>> 2. Carefully cut the plate off as close to the stays as possible using a 
>> Dremel or similar cutting tool and then treat the cut surface with paint, 
>> clear nail polish, or some clear coat. Hire the frame builder to do this if 
>> you're not comfortable.
>>
>> Both of these options are much easier and less expensive than fabricating 
>> and affixing a new plate.
>>
>> If you normally run a kickstand, I’d recommend using one of the *chainstay 
>> “sandwich” style mounting sets* 
>> <https://www.rivbike.com/products/pletscher-kickstand-hardware?variant=23336090305>
>>  that 
>> Riv sells instead. If you leave the existing plate in place after treating 
>> it with rust converter, the mounting bolt would simply pass through the 
>> hole, bypassing the plate itself as the kickstand support.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>>  [image: Kickstand Hardware - Pletscher, misc.]
>>
>> On Monday, May 25, 2026 at 11:37:46 AM UTC-4 [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All, 
>>>
>>> I have this 2009 Waterford Atlantis but the kickstand plate is corroded 
>>> and cracked in two places:
>>>
>>> [image: 20260515_153040.jpg]
>>>
>>> I would like to have it fixed, if possible. I chatted with a local frame 
>>> builder who recommended I find a replacement piece entirely but noted it 
>>> would be difficult. I was expecting someone to be able to fabricate such a 
>>> part. Two questions: 
>>>
>>> 1) is this safe to ride? Can't think of a reason it would not be, but I 
>>> don't think that much...
>>>
>>> 2) Is this something that could be repaired as is? Maybe contacting 
>>> Rivendell directly would be helpful?
>>>
>>> This is my first time dealing with such an issue, so I appreciate any 
>>> insight!
>>>
>>> Tailwinds, 
>>>
>>> DF
>>>
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>
>

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