On Tuesday, May 26, 2026 at 5:24:12 PM UTC-5 Tim wrote:

I think you just nailed it Garth. I realize now that the chain that came 
off was noticeably "stretched" when laid side by side with the new one. I 
just checked them again and the old one gains 1.5 links. I noticed it at 
the time but didn't make the connection of how badly the chain rings 
might/must be correspondingly worn. 


So, I'll ask the obvious question ... did you replace the chain with a 
narrower one? 

If you wore the chain that much, then you also wore the chain rings. Bite 
the bullet and buy new chainrings, but I doubt that would solve the chain 
jamming problem, because narrowing of the teeth from wear wouldn't  also 
narrow the sections of the rings where the chain would jam. 

RH chainrings are countersunk on one side, so you may have difficulty 
mounting them reversed. But I wouldn't expect that to solve the problem, 
anyway. RH sells two different types of chainrings, one of them for 
narrower chains, and you definitely can't reverse them because of the pins 
and ramps. Even the standard chainrings wouldn't really work, as they have 
a pin on the outside to prevent the chain jamming in the crank arm, and 
their teeth are shaped (though your rings might be the earlier ones, 
without shaping, and with the amount of wear you might have, probably any 
shaping gone at this point).

I haven't had any trouble with jamming chains up to 10sp on RH cranks with 
their original chainrings.

You should be able to see significant chainring wear in the shape of the 
teeth, especially if you have a newer chainring to use for comparison. 
Also, with the chain on the big ring, pull on the chain at the forward (3 
o'clock) position on the chainring and see how far you can pull the chain 
from where it is seated on the ring. A fresh chain on a fresh ring won't 
allow much movement. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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