I am a long-time Pitlock user, being that I live in DC and from time to 
time lock my bike places downtown for a reasonable period of time, usually 
outside sporting events or places with a lot of foot traffic.  I have them 
on (counting...) 4 of my bikes.  I have never had a failure with them some 
of them are literally 20 years old.  The thing is acquiring them across a 
fleet can be pretty costly as can making sure you have enough keys to 
deploy across your fleet.  So I need to make sure that the key move to the 
right city bike for a potential flat tire change or else sweat for the 
entire ride.  So over 20 years or so, the price per year has been darn 
reasonable for me.

I don't use the seat post lock because I presume a less informed bike their 
couldn't care less about boosting my seat post and Brooks saddle, and that 
has proven true over the years.  I will say the Pitlocks did not work on my 
older Look Reynolds 753 racing bike because the dropouts are aligned 
vertically to the rear of the bike, so that bike remains with a quick 
release.

Having Pitlocks means I only lock my frame when parking my bike, unless I 
intend to be parked for a longer time.  Even then, I tend to park my bike 
in a parking garage underneath whatever building I am visiting downtown.

Steve Seelig

On Wednesday, June 10, 2026 at 10:38:02 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> [image: IMG_2030.jpeg]Hi All,
>
> I have dyno wheels on all my bikes and on those that get locked up (only 
> Charlie is exempt) I have replaced the QRs with Hexlox locking skewers. I 
> thought it a brilliant system because it requires only one tiny key to pull 
> the magnetic insert and that key can be keyed for alllll your bikes, making 
> only one key on your key ring necessary. 
>
> But I have an alarming problem. Now, this is on all 3 of my Platys and on 
> my son’s Clem: the aluminum nuts’ threads strip after removing the wheel 
> once or twice. My mechanic said we needed a steel nut; the aluminum is soft 
> and easily stripped. I talked to Hexlox, who acted like I was the only one 
> ever to have this issue, which just cannot be true. They found me a conical 
> steel nut from their site, and we immediately replaced all the bikes’ 
> aluminum nuts with steel nuts. It seemed like all was well. It has been a 
> year or more since…
>
> This week I took my red Platy in for a front wheel that was not spinning 
> right, and the mechanics called to say the problem is the axle again. The 
> nut is not holding onto the axle anymore, which means the steel nuts are no 
> good, either. I think they last longer, but they are certainly not a safe 
> long-term replacement. I am pretty disappointed because the Hexlox was such 
> a slick system, but how can I use them now?
>
> I do have Pitlocks I bought from the marvelous Peter White that are just 
> sitting here. I bought them when the aluminum Hexlox failed, thinking I’d 
> have to give up those skewers. But I got those steel nuts and so these 
> Pitlocks have sat in their packages. 
>
> Before I tear apart my bikes again and have to carry 4 different keys 
> around with the Pitlock system, does anyone have a better, slicker solution?
>
> I did write to Hexlox today and we’ll see what they say about this…
> Leah
>

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