This is great advice which I can confirm by contraries because -- largely
as a result of riding fixed, or perhaps I'm just a bad bike handler -- I
know the results of doing the opposite. So Jim's Axioms: Keep light; look
at your goal; counter steer -- and the Key Principles to Good Bike Handling.

I will add that fat tires on sand (not your skinny, hard 50s -- I mean fat
and soft) make a huge difference in sand; as, IME, do larger wheels. Last
weekend I was behind my brother as he fishtailed through sand, staying
upright only by powering through (he has very good bike handling skills, I
know this again per contraria). I floated over his deep tracks with far
less wobble. He on 700X50s or so at 35, I on 700cX60s at sub 20.

On Sat, Oct 6, 2012 at 10:55 AM, Cyclofiend Jim <[email protected]>wrote:

> The only thing I'll add is that it's often times the reaction to the
> condition which causes the accident.  Whether you overlap wheels with the
> rider ahead of you or drop a tire into an expansion crack, it's the
> reaction that causes the accident.
>
> Here are a few of the things which have worked for me:
>
> Relax. You have a significant amount of momentum, and if you can keep
> light on the front end (see "Sand Riding" below), the crack shouldn't stop
> you (especially if you have real world tires (30mm or above) on the bike.
> Hitting the brakes (remember, 80% of your braking is on the front wheel)
> makes bad things happen very fast.
>
> Sand Riding.  When you ride in soft sand, the only way to stay upright is
> to get all the weight off of your front wheel and essentially surf through
> the drift on the back wheel. (steering with your hips, unicycle style). If
> you dump the front wheel into a rut get your weight back, back, back, back,
> back.  The dangerous tendency is to shift forward (if the rut is nasty
> enough to cause a reduction in speed, this is already happening) and muscle
> the front wheel out.  I've found that if you can get waaaaaay back, you can
> essentially wheelie out, rather than steering out.
>
> Countersteering.  Not Just a Good Idea - It's the Law. There are two times
> when almost every rider forgets that a bike steers by countersteering - (a)
> when you are on the edge of the roadway or (b) when you drop into a rut.
> Let's take the roadway edge first.  You are on the right side of the road
> and there's a ditch to your right.  The shoulder suddenly disappears and
> you find yourself within a couple inches of a steep drop.  First reaction
> is to turn the bars left.  This, of course, makes the bicycle go right -
> towards the ditch, so you lean for all it is worth to your left.  This
> counteracts the steering action and all that happens is you keep plowing
> along straight, inches away from the drop. You get more and more tense and
> keep turning the bars left, while leaning left.  Frivolity ensues.
> With a rut, it can be a bit trickier, but let's assuming you stay relaxed
> and unweight the front wheel.  If you turn the bars left, the bicycle will
> want to go right, so what can happen - in unfortunately short order - is
> that the front wheel pops free on the left side of the rut, then the
> bicycle/rider combine goes right, dropping the wheel back into the rut,
> causing a panicked reaction and some manner of tumbling to the unforgiving
> roadway.  (This works the other way as well - even though the bicycle at
> first gets free, the great surprise is when the front wheel heads back for
> the rut as if drawn by a magnet.)  You have to be ready to hop the wheel
> over or stay front-end-unweighted until all the bits are are the same side
> of the rut.
>
> Relax and Ride it Out.  Unless you are in a group and someone is drafting
> very, very close to you, sometimes the best strategy is just of stop
> pedaling, lean back and let momentum take over. In off road conditions in
> my area, some trails are affected by seasonal rains, and you can find
> yourself in a significantly deep drainage rut. I have been stopped by
> wedging my pedals against the side of the rut. Not purposefully doing that,
> by the way...  But, on the roadway, if you don't overreact to the
> situation, momentum covers a lot of ills.  You may find yourself expelled
> from the rut, or just stopping.
>
> Now - disclaimer time - most of these things were learned by trial and
> failure*.  It takes a lot of practice to override your immediate
> reactions.  The ground is hard.
>
> But, the first key to staying upright is being able to relax on  the bike
> - grass drills (where you tussle and prod the rider next to you while
> riding on a soft, forgiving surface) and just playing on the bike - seeing
> where your balance issues are, doing the wrong thing and seeing if you can
> recover, super slow speed navigation  - will serve you well.
>
> hope that helps,
>
> - Jim / cyclofiend.com / [email protected]
>
> * and I will say this is one place where racing experience can help.  CX
> maneuvers in hellish weather, MTB racing, and of course the dreaded high
> speed crit pack all do help your handling skills.  Though the price for
> failure in those areas is a bit steeper.
>
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-- 
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                                                   -- Claude Cockburn

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