Jim, I certainly have some longer reach brakes lying around, so that might be an option just to check and see.
I was planning on a new wheel when I went to 650b anyway, so switching out the hub was not really a big deal. I currently have a Campy hub, forget whether it's Chorus or Centaur, so it definitely won't take a Shimano freehub. I thought about just unlacing the rim from the hub and lacing up a 650b wheel, but I've had bad luck re-using hubs with multiple lacings, the flanges don't like it. Or did you mean replace the freehub shell every time I replace a cassette? I've never replaced a freehub shell before, usually I end up trashing the rim, or cracking the hub flange, or both, before wear on the freehub shell or splines become an issue. On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Cyclofiend Jim <cyclofi...@earthlink.net>wrote: > Jim - > > Probably better to pose that gearing/drivetrain question as a separate > thread. A lot of folks dip into conversations based on the title. > > One thing I didn't see mentioned was possibly changing your brakes but > staying with the 622 (700C) wheelsize. From your description, the tire is > hitting the brake itself (and just on the rear?). It's quite possible that > simply going to a longer-armed brake with a better curve in the arms could > gain both height for larger tires and width to clear a fender. A centerpull > might work fine, and you could probably find a DiaCompe or similar quality > with the dimensions to check it out. At the time time your bike was built, > there probably was simply not the selection of brakes with longer reach. > You may have more room to work with than is indicated. > > As far as drivetrain goes - > - Swapping from Campy to Shimano means you at least have to change the > freehub when you buy new rear spockets, and depending on the hub, that may > not be possible. Therefore a new hub or wheel. > - If you are _really_ going to use friction shifting, then it doesn't > matter what gear range or manufacturer's sprockets you use. You can hang > the cheapest compatible sprockets onto the freehub. > - You are unlikely to wear out a rear derailleur unless you are > cross-chaining, running high chain tension and continually applying > excessive torque to the der. body. Especially in a friction shifting > environment, where you can compensate for a little bit of derailleur slop > with the shifters. > - You'll burn many, many more sprockets and chains than you will > derailleurs. > > Hope that helps, > > - Jim / cyclofiend.com > > > > On Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:14:08 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote: > >> Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis. >> >> I have another question along the same vein for the group. I am trying >> to do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just blow money on >> bike parts that sound cool on some Internet forum anymore. >> >> I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even though >> the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus. Reason being is that the >> parts are very, very reasonably priced. Rivendell sells 8 speed Shimano >> compatible cassettes for $30, for example. Campy bits are not reasonably >> priced and in the amount of riding I'll do preparing for PBP I will >> probably wear out at least some of them. >> >> But how low is too low to go? Is there anything functionally deficient >> about the new Shimano Claris group for example? My requirements are that >> the parts work well, and that they look nice on a Rivendell in keeping with >> the general aesthetics of the bike. >> >> In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite >> polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for around $75. >> Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25. The Claris long cage rear >> derailer also looks nice and goes for around $25 or so plus is rated for >> 32T. A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is about $15 online and is nickle plated >> so looks nice. >> >> Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also looks >> very nice but costs $88. It also can handle 36T which admittedly is nice >> but I am fine with the gears I have now, which are 50-38-26 in the front >> and 13-26 in the back. If I really need the Deore to get the job done in >> France so be it, but I'd rather not pay $88 for what I can do for $25. >> >> Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am >> planning on friction shifting. :0 >> >> Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it being >> machine built? I can't build it myself for this cheap: >> http://www.ebikestop.com/**quality_wheels_pavement_rim_** >> brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_**shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__** >> dt_competition_all_silver-**WE7429.php<http://www.ebikestop.com/quality_wheels_pavement_rim_brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__dt_competition_all_silver-WE7429.php> >> >> LX hubs, double butted spokes, Synergy rims, sounds good to me. I wish >> it were 36H but the bike currently has 32H on it and it's been fine for >> many miles of brevet riding. >> >> Well anyway, I'll stop rambling now. Thanks for all the great input >> everyone. >> >> Jim >> >> >> >> >> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Tim Gavin <tim....@littlevillagemag.** >> com> wrote: >> >>> The math works thus: >>> 700C diameter is 622 >>> 650B diameter is 584 >>> difference of 38mm >>> half of that is 19mm >>> >>> the 650B wheel drops the entire bicycle 19mm. >>> >>> Then subtract the difference in tire size. >>> 650B tire is 38mm >>> 700C tire is 32mm >>> difference is 6mm >>> >>> Hence the 13mm, because the 6mm bigger 650B tire will raise it back up a >>> smidge from the 19mm drop. 13mm BB drop means a bit more likely to scrape >>> a pedal, and a bit less clearance under the chain ring when mounting >>> obstacles. >>> >>> The vertical clearance gained is 13mm, because the tire height does >>> matter there. 13mm = plenty of room for fenders. >>> >>> The difference in brake reach is 19mm, because the brakes don't care >>> about the tire height. 49 + 19 = 68mm brake reach. The 55 to 73mm range >>> of the Tektro R559/Silver brakes make them perfect for this, and I'm >>> pleased with their performance. I put Kool-stop pads in mine, though. >>> >>> Feel free to call Rivendell to ask. I did. They told me to mind the BB >>> drop, since my early Road Standard has a low BB to begin with. That's all >>> they said. But they're very nice folks out there, and won't mind telling >>> you the same. >>> >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> >>> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:56 PM, Michael <john1...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> The R559's are easier to set up and adjust, in my experience. >>>>> >>>> >>>> But remember to run it by the folks at Rivendell, there may be issues >>>> we don't think of or know about. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@**googlegroups.com. >>>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com. >>>> >>>> Visit this group at >>>> http://groups.google.com/**group/rbw-owners-bunch<http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch> >>>> . >>>> For more options, visit >>>> https://groups.google.com/**groups/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out> >>>> . >>>> >>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@**googlegroups.com. >>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com. >>> >>> Visit this group at >>> http://groups.google.com/**group/rbw-owners-bunch<http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch> >>> . >>> For more options, visit >>> https://groups.google.com/**groups/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out> >>> . >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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