OK, I see the scenario you are after, and I really like the doorknob 
analogy.  But, the doorknob scenario you describe is common for cantilever 
brakes, but not sidepull brakes.  Sidepull brakes practically never have 
their brakepads hit the chainstays or the fork blades when you try to QR 
them open.  Look at the profile photo of every bike on rivbike.com.  All of 
them clearly show the brakepads clear the stays and the fork blades.  The 
only way they could or would hit is if the owner deliberately put a lot 
longer than normal brake pad on those brakes.  Cantilever brakes usually 
come with really long v-brake style pads and do hit the stays.  For those 
bikes, thinner ones like the Thinlines or shorter ones will allow the 
cantilever brakes to open up more.  

On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 2:51:52 PM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Thin-lines do increase opening width of calipers in one (common) 
> scenario:  the back of the pads hit the fork legs/seat stays, preventing 
> any further opening.  Thin lines delay that limit a bit, and aren't as 
> thick, so they block the egress of the fat tire less.  
>
> Think about it this way:  a door knob hit the wall when the door is fully 
> open.  If you change that door knob for one that stuck out less from the 
> door, the door would open more widely.  Plus, the inside doorknob wouldn't 
> catch on your hip as easily when you walk through.
>
> If you have ample fork/stay clearance, than what you said is true, Bill.  
> Most Rivendells have ample fork/stay clearance, but the early ones had less 
> than current ones.  Then, you're limited only by the opening width of the 
> brake, something unique to sidepull brakes.
>
> I agree that centerpulls would open completely; Paul Racer Medium's would 
> be a great fit for this bike.  I didn't realize that Dia Compe 610s were in 
> production again, but it looks like Gran Compe level ones are available at 
> VO.  Purdy!
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com<javascript:>
> > wrote:
>
>> "One way to get brakes to open wider:  use Kool-stop "Thinline" pads."
>>
>> I respectfully disagree with this.  It is true that if your brakes are 
>> adjusted for "thick" brakepads and then you just replace your thick 
>> brakepads with Koolstop Thinlines, that the brakes will open wider.... BUT 
>> ... your brakes will no longer be adjusted.  They'll be way too loose. 
>>  Readjust the brakes for the thinner pads and now you are right back where 
>> you started, not able to open wide enough to get your tire out.  
>>
>> I'm running 700x35 Paselas on the Windsor.  They measure a true 36mm on 
>> my widish rims (in fact they measure wider than my 700x38 C-Lines, so 
>> weird!).  Anyway, I have an old DiaCompe 610 in front.  I have a QR on my 
>> cable hanger, and then I use that slack to disengage the straddle cable. 
>>  That way I can get the front wheel out without deflating.  
>>
>> I think the modern Dia Compe 610 brakes or the Paul Racer M's would be 
>> very smart on a Redwood.  
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 1:35:09 PM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>>
>>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/rambouillet/rambflyer/index.html
>>>
>>> The Rambouillet fits up to 700x38mm tires, according to the flyer.  The 
>>> Redwood flyer also claims 700x38 clearance:
>>>
>>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus/redflyer/index.html
>>>
>>> Silver brakes and 750 centerpulls will have too long of reach (55-73mm) 
>>> to be compatible with a Riv Red/Rom/Ram. (I have a red Riv Road).  Red rum?
>>>  
>>> Tektro 539 brakes are the most common current "standard reach" (47-57mm) 
>>> brakes for these bikes, and they're what Riv sells.  They have pretty good 
>>> fender/tire clearance.  I don't know if they open any wider than the stock 
>>> Shimano brakes.
>>>
>>> One way to get brakes to open wider:  use Kool-stop "Thinline" pads.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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