Matt,

Very nice work on your Abrams (nice website also).

On the EV amperage.  The Cromwell is running 24v and I only have one
60A fuse in the circuit (in front of the controller).  I've never
stalled a motor or blown a fuse.  I attribute that to two facts, my
controller is current limiting and I have belts on my first stage
reduction acting as a mechanical fuse.  When building these things
it's important to avoid high amperage conditions caused by a motor
stall using techniques most appropriate for your mechanical and
electronics mix.


Steve Tyng


On Nov 4, 2:26 am, "Chris. b" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you run the evs at 24v you will have a hard time stalling them on a
> 9:1 ratio, your more likely to break your tracks or chains somewhere.
> If you install belts you will never stall the evs under normal use. I
> used to run evs 12v 9:1 with 60amp fuses, never blew one of them and I
> didnt exactly take it easy on my tank.
>
> Chris. b
>
> On Nov 4, 9:43 am, "Derek Engelhaupt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Wire
> > Gauge  
> > 00 awg  400 amps
> > 0 awg   325 amps
> > 1 awg   250 amps
> > 2 awg   200 amps
> > 4 awg   125 amps
> > 6 awg   80 amps
> > 8 awg   50 amps
> > 10 awg  30 amps
> > 12 awg  20 amps
> > 14 awg  15 amps
> > 16 awg  7.5 amps
>
> > These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding
> > wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be
> > perfectly safe.
>
> > I got this chart off of an electronics website.  These maximums are
> > designed to keep the wire from burning up (ie: starting on fire).
> > According to this chart, my fuses are too big for my wire size.  The
> > M-01 motors Joe sells have blown 30 amp fuses in a stall.  I'm
> > thinking I need to put some smaller fuses in my tank.  Yes you EV's
> > will have a higher stall current at 24V, but they should also draw
> > less amps at 24V under the same load at 12V.
>
> > Derek
>
> > On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 3:37 PM, Matt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > > Well I thought that the speed controllers would be able to handle the
> > > current more readily at 12 volts. As you can see, the tank is very
> > > long and narrow, so it doesn´t do turns very well. at 24 volts, the
> > > stall current is close to 200 amps. the speed controllers are only
> > > rated at 120 amps continuous, and 200 amps for 2 seconds. The increase
> > > in power would make the motors less likely to stall out, but to begin
> > > with I just wanted a good, solid system to move the tank.
>
> > > But, in case I do want to upgrade the voltage, what fuses would I use?
> > > I was thinking 120 amp, but I am no expert on this stuff. Its
> > > definitely at the top of the list of upgrades, along with a suspension
> > > system.
>
> > >        Thanks for all of the imput,
> > >                -Matt
>
> > > On Nov 3, 11:59 am, "Derek Engelhaupt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >> Great looking tank Matt.  Just a few questions.  What was the
> > >> reasoning behind gearing the EV's so low?  Just curious since most of
> > >> the EV folks use a 9:1 ratio on them.  Secondly, did you have a reason
> > >> for going with 12V instead of 24V?  I'm asking since the motors are
> > >> more efficient at 24V.  I would think that if you ran them on 24V with
> > >> a 9:1 ratio, you would still be able to make your climbing goals... :)
>
> > >> Derek
>
> > >> On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 1:44 PM, Chris Malton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > >> > I have to say, I think it probably deserves its designation, even if it
> > >> > wasn't ready for it.
>
> > >> > That is pretty cool.  Well done Matt.
>
> > >> > Chris
>
> > >> > On 03/11/2008 15:55, Matt wrote:
> > >> >> I think my Tank is finally ready for a designation number. You can go
> > >> >> to my website atwww.freewebs.com/shootermiketocheckout the videos
> > >> >> of it moving.
> > >> >>        Thanks
> > >> >>               -Matt- Hide quoted text -
>
> > >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
>
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