Steve, I'm not sure if this was directed at me or not and the tracks I used on the Sturmtiger pictured here:
http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/75trackonsprocketfrontside-large.jpg but I can give you some information on that system. That was originally used on my Sturmtiger until I switched to using the attachment chain tracks. Since I have stolen my attachment chain tracks off the Sturmtiger and mounted them on my KV-2, I am going to revisit those tracks. I had issues with getting them to stay on the rear idlers under rough terrain. My plan is to use a non-sprocketed idler when I re-install them. I plan to put the guide teeth on the outsides of the drive sprockets in the next version. The road wheels I use are plastic shopping cart wheels that are wrapped in rubber. These are them: http://cgi.ebay.com/Wheel-5x1-1-4-Rubber-on-Poly-Gray-on-Gray-Delrin_W0QQitemZ370284549126QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Casters?hash=item5636add406 I think some of the issues with them staying on dealt with the active suspension system. When the rearmost idler wheel actuated up, it would push the track off the rear idler. Another issue was that my rear idler sprockets were free wheeling and not indexed together. That sometimes caused the inner and outer sprocket teeth to not be aligned also causing the track to derail. I think a tank/robot without a suspension would have less issues as long as the tracks had an effective tensioning system. Just cranking up the tension on my tracks didn't solve the problem as it added more stress to the driveline and more drag. The drive wheels were just sprockets I got from www.surpluscenter.com as well as the idlers. The rubber tubing held up well. All of the track derailing was actually bending the machine screws used to hold the tracks together. I think a better solution would be to use either wood or PVC sheet for the track pads. Drilling two holes through the PVC or wood would keep the screws from bending so much. Guide teeth are an essential to any track system IMHO. There are some additional pics of the tracks at my Photobucket page with guide teeth: http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s265/nitzerebbhead/Sturmtiger/ Having the guide teeth in the middle of the screws also caused some of the machine screw bending. Moving the guide teeth to the edges should reduce that. http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/ Link to the track build page. Derek T065 On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 1:33 PM, steveh <ste...@avdesigners.com> wrote: > Hello, I am looking at building a track system for a robot. I like > your idea on the chain and bolt system. I have a couple of questions > if you have the time. How does it perform? How does the pvc tubing > hold up? and lastly, what did you use for the drive wheels? Are > they > floating or fixed? Thank you for your help. > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com > To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
