That first one is getting better, other one way to small. Either will require you to fabricate a geardown mechanism, thereby obliterating any cost savings.
If you take my advice (and I hope that of others here), the motor is important, and in the scheme of the overall cost of your vehicle, just go and get scooter motors, it's not worth saving $50 for an unproven solution, unless of course you want to be a trail blazer and have the associated trial and error. If you look at the order of battle (http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/) you will see that most (all?) tanks of significance and success are running 24v, and most are using M01's or very similar scooter motors. Ben ________________________________________ From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf of Weston [gamewes...@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 2:10 PM To: R/C Tank Combat Subject: [TANKS] Re: I've Decided On A Tank, And Other Important Stuff. http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M4-R0062-12 http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS775-18 what about these 2 motor?? On Jul 11, 7:28 pm, Ben Holko <b...@holnet.net> wrote: > Unless your tank is going to be EXTREMELY light, that motor will be to small. > > An M01 has more than three times the torque, well more than three times the > stall current, and weighs about 7 times as much. > > Ben > > ________________________________________ > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf > of Weston [gamewes...@gmail.com] > Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:26 AM > To: R/C Tank Combat > Subject: [TANKS] Re: I've Decided On A Tank, And Other Important Stuff. > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-MP-36064-540.html > > link to the motor > > On Jul 11, 7:24 pm, Weston <gamewes...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > I think i found a motor, a BaneBots 64:1, 36mm Planetary Gearmotor, > > RS-540 Motor. From what I can gather it is a little less in > > performance then then the M01 @ 24v, but it is a 12v motor, and also > > costs less. > > > On Jun 29, 8:34 pm, jvragu47 <jpl...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > Wait until you get the scale drawing. Then make a cardboard layout of > > > the hull. Then you'll have a better idea as to how things will fit. > > > > John > > > > On Jun 28, 8:53 am, Weston <gamewes...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > scratch the motors and batteries. I am still going to use the C6C with > > > > its own batteries, but I am going to go with a 12v system. This came > > > > as I now have a 12v battery I can use. It is a old car battery, but it > > > > is the sealed maintenance free one. I do not know if it will last long > > > > enough, being as it is old, so eventually it will be replaced, but for > > > > a start it should work. I also don't know if it will be too big to fit > > > > into a little tank, so this could change. > > > > > So now I have to find a good 12v motor. Any suggestions? > > > > > Also, is there an online calculator that will show the difference in > > > > power if a 24v motor is ran at 12v??? > > > > > On Jun 27, 12:12 am, Weston <gamewes...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > I've finally decided on a tank to build. I am going to build a Panzer > > > > > 2 Ausf J. > > > > > > I am choosing the Ausf. J because It has 80mm of Armor in the front, > > > > > giving me the the 4 defensive rating, while still being a smaller > > > > > tank. > > > > > > For treads I have decided to go with the door hinge type, to allow for > > > > > the sagging of the treads like the actual tank. > > > > > > For speed controls I am going with the tri-pact for drive, and an ESC > > > > > for turret rotation and gun elevation. > > > > > > RC interface will be a Cheap Six Channel (C6C) Servo Controller and a > > > > > Wireless PS2 controller > > > > > > Drive Motors will be a DeWalt 18V motor, and will use the original > > > > > gearbox with additional gearing. Not as good as the 24v i was gonna go > > > > > with, but the 18v allows me to use 3 6v batteries for a total of 18v, > > > > > but i can hook the C6C up in parallel to just one for its 6v input > > > > > power. That would work right??? If I am wrong, then I have no other > > > > > ideas on how to get the 6v for the C6C, and still have the 18v for the > > > > > motors. > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com > To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
