Thank you for the kind words. I compress the springs using channel locks(tounge and groove pliars) and simply pull them off one side at a time. http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx165/cobra9431/0091.jpg By compressing these 2 points together, the idler wheel gives enough slack to slip the track off with ease. Nice thing about this track is that since getting the correct spring tension, it has yet to throw. knock on wood * :) Do you plan on using a suspension system? If not then there would probably be no advantage in a idler like mine. But I would think an independent idler wheel for tension would be best for any set up using a suspension system. Otherwise any time one track's suspension is stressed on one side, and the other not, then one might have problems with alignment at that wheel and/or improper tension distribution. Perhaps real life operation is not a drastic as I imagine it, but I plan on navigating gnarly terrain. I would not be offended if you did not use the idler concept for your own as at 1:3 you might need a set of uber sized chennel locks, but the design is for any and all to use and abuse as wished.
Aaron F T076 SCAB -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
