didnt know there was anything wrong with the old hull, I wouldnt think dovetail joints are at all necessary but do so if you wish , I have constructed my last hull with a few elongated finger joints , slightly for location of parts and partly because I can .non of it is really needed ,modern glue with screws creates a very strong butt joint . if you have space restraints ,You could always get plywood cut to size from any decent timber supplier .
Neil R On Jan 21, 1:26 pm, [email protected] wrote: > Tuesday while mom and I were out, i got the change to take the Tiger's > lower hull and dropped it off the cabinet shop. i'm looking to have a > replacement made out of 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and possibly have all > parts dove > tailed (even though he doesn't think it'll make any difference). > > 1/4" plywood might not sound like much, but it's a better quality plywood > and has more, finer layers of wood than regular ply and is much stronger. I > know there will be some spots i'll want to double up on it, such as where > the top hull hinges to the lower half, where the front and rear axles exit > the hull, where the motor/trany mounts and were i'll be mounting the torsion > bars. > > hopefully today i'll hear from him as to a price - i'm figuring about $150+ > > I'd do it myself, but i just don't have the space to move around a sheet of > plywood, let along a dove tail jig, router and so forth, so i thought i'd > let someone do it locally who can. > > depending on the price and how soon he can get to it will depend on when > i'll have him start it. and when he does, i figure i'll give him the top half > as well, this way we know it'll match up correctly all the way around. > > Chris, > _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
