I finally found the time and motivation to test the Pololu RC Switch with 
Small Low-Side MOSFET <http://www.pololu.com/product/2802>
It works as expected.  Bazooka Joe is now a little more bionic (strictly 
speaking he's more electronic, less electromechanical than he was).

The marker in RL001 <http://rctankcombat.com/rocket-launchers/RL001/> is a 
Spyder Imagine.  A 9V battery powers a circuit board that drives a solenoid 
that flicks the sear to fire the marker.  The trigger presses a SPST 
microswitch.  According to my digital multimeter the microswitch passes a 
constant 480 uA (0.48 milliamps) when closed and one contact is at ground 
level (i.e. it's a low-side switch).  I was surprised the current was so 
low, I guess it's driving a Darlington pair?

I soldered a servo-style lead to the IN, VRC, and adjacent GND pins on the 
MOSFET board, and soldered a tiny link over the VRC and VCC pads to power 
the board from the R/C interface.  I soldered a 2-position screw terminal 
block (with 0.1" pin spacing, very small!) to the LO and adjacent GND pins 
(on the "wrong" side because a surface-mount device was in the way on the 
"right" side).  The marker has a pair of wires soldered to the trigger 
microswitch contacts and I connected the other ends of the wires to the 
screw terminals, making sure the ground side was connected correctly (GND 
pin to ground side of switch).

When operational an indicator LED on the switch board blinks on briefly 
about once a second to indicate is has a signal.  When the "fire" signal is 
sent the LED blinks off briefly about once a second and the marker fires 
with the first blink.  The rate of fire (cycling the R/C signal to re-fire 
the marker) is "plenty fast" ... no specifics here because Bazooka Joe is a 
single-shot asset so rate of fire isn't an issue.

Conclusion:
I see at least 4 options for firing an electronic marker via R/C:

1. Ignore the electronics and use a servo with an arm or cam to 
mechanically move the trigger or the microswitch actuator.
Pros: Simple, cheap, proven.  You can see if it's working.
Cons: The servo and arm/cam need to be aligned correctly with the trigger - 
needs mechanical engineering.  Subject to wear-and-tear.

2. Use an R/C relay-based switch (examples include the PicoSwitch 
<https://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/picoswitch> and the Pololu 
RC Switch with Relay <http://www.pololu.com/product/2804>).  I used the 
PicoSwitch previously and it worked fine (as long as the pulses weren't 
more than 500 ms either side of center, which shouldn't be a problem with 
typical R/C gear).
Pros: Very small, easy to connect (polarity not an issue), voltage/current 
not an issue with typical markers, clicking sound confirms operation.
Cons: Some soldering required for cheaper products (around $10), not for 
more expensive ones (around $20).  Needs electrical and/or mechanical 
engineering.

3. Use a FET-based switch as above.
Pros: Very small, LED shows status.
Cons: Must get polarity right when connecting, some soldering required. 
 Needs electrical engineering.

4. Given the low current I observed it wouldn't be a stretch to build a 
home-grown solution.  A Pololu RC Switch with Digital Output 
<http://www.pololu.com/product/2801>, or a microprocessor (PIC 
<http://www.microchip.com/pagehandler/en-us/products/picmicrocontrollers>, 
PICAXE <http://www.picaxe.com/>, Arduino <http://www.arduino.cc/>, Raspberry 
Pi <http://www.raspberrypi.org/>, etc) with a resistor or two and a BJT or 
FET should do the trick.  I'll look into this "someday".
Pros: Customizable (e.g. with an MPU you can activate based on certain 
signal characteristic/s).  Cheapish if the parts are lying around your junk 
box.
Cons: Much assembly required.  Needs electronic engineering.

All these solutions are on the order of $10 or less if you can do some of 
the work, $20 or so if you just want to plug it in and go.

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