Hi All -

Note that there is a difference between self tapping and thread forming screws. 
Self tapping screws are not a good choice for bonding. In my opinion, thread 
forming screws are also a marginal choice unless used with a nut and star 
washer on the back side. All it takes is just a little bit of overtightening 
and the soft aluminum module frame will strip out when using thread forming 
screws. Sure, any good experienced installer has the right touch to tighten the 
screws just right but newer members of the crew will surely strip threads from 
time to time. If you use a kep nut (such as McMaster PN: 
96278A411</#item/96278A411>) on the back side of the frame you'll be sure you 
have a sturdy bond. Once you try the kep nuts you'll never want to go back to 
just plain screws because you can go good and snug and never worry abour 
stripping the aluminum...

See some of you folks down at the Solar Power conference! Best, August


August Goers


Luminalt Energy Corporation
O: 415.564.7652
M: 415.559.1525
F: 650.244.9167
www.luminalt.com<http://www.luminalt.com/>
________________________________
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Mick Abraham 
[m...@abrahamsolar.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:36 AM
To: RE-wrenches
Cc: Rick Turley
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless steel, self-tapping grounding screws

Nick didn't specify screw diameter, but assuming #10-32:

Try #96024A310 from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com<http://www.mcmaster.com>) 
These cut threads into aluminum pretty well.

I also use stainless "external star" washers for the ground lug task: 
#98438A230, same source. One washer between lug and solar module frame bites 
into both surfaces.

The above mentioned screws require a 5/32" pilot hole. If your modules don't 
already have that you'll need to protect the Tedlar back sheet with a scrap of 
wood then drill through the aluminum flange. This operation is possibly 
non-code, possibly non-acceptable to your authority having jurisdiction, and 
possibly a reason for the module manufacturer to disallow warranty on the 
drilled modules. Drama, drama, drama.

A 5/16" hex bit is required to drive the thread cutter screws and I find this 
cannot be done by hand. A cordless drill works but be careful to not strip out 
the aluminum threads you're cutting. Get them tight...but not too tight.

Side Note: The same screws do not tap well into the thin NEMA 1/NEMA 3R steel 
pulling boxes. The cutting teeth seem to grind away before they get a good bite 
in the steel.

Jolliness,

Mick Abraham, Proprietor
www.abrahamsolar.com<http://www.abrahamsolar.com>

Voice: 970-731-4675


On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 6:17 PM, Nick Soleil 
<nicksoleilso...@yahoo.com<mailto:nicksoleilso...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
Hi wrenches:
    I am looking for a new source for stainless steel, self-tapping, 32 thread 
per inch screws to bond Ilsco lugs to module frames.  I used to buy these from 
Fastenal, but they don't supply them anymore.  I have been using WEEB lugs, but 
one city jurisdiction doesn't allow them without the letter of authorization 
from BP Solar.  I have contacted BP a couple times, requesting that they 
provide a letter to WEEB, and I heard, "it's complicated."  I guess so.
    Maybe I will bolt the Ilsco lug through a threaded hole.
 Nick Soleil
Project Manager
Advanced Alternative Energy Solutions, LLC
PO Box 657
Petaluma, CA 94953
Cell: 707-321-2937
Office: 707-789-9537
Fax: 707-769-9037



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