MessageYou can also use GE Silicone RTV-108 sold by Grainger.
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Davidson
To: RE-wrenches
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
Brian is correct. 739 is a reliable sealant. Some people put acid-free,
clear, insulating tape on the tear after cleaning (clean, dry or lightly damp
cotton cloth) and drying (heat gun on low setting or hair dryer) the area and
before applying the silicone. The tape is optional.
Joel Davidson
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Teitelbaum
To: RE-wrenches
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
I like Blair's idea, but I've always used a silicone sealant that doesn't
use acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone
sealant that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The
739 is a "moisture-cure", 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air
as the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is
used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the
exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a
module rep could confirm this with us.
Brian Teitelbaum
AEE Solar
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Blair May
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
I use a heat gun to remove moisture & smooth out the rip then I've used
some bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.
I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
curing.
-----Original Message-----
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a
Solar World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move
the leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.
What's the best way to seal it back up?
There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5" long
and ½" at the widest end.
My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the
collective brain, so to speak.
Thanks,
Bob Ellison
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