KNOW YOUR ONIONS
Differences in sweetness make it important to know which one to use

 
 When you see a member of the onion family that is small and long and
thin, colored green on the top and white on the bottom, what is it?
Whether you answer scallion, spring onion or green onion depends on
where you're from, but also on what you're looking at. This is one
onion - make that two onions - with a huge identity problem.

But there is a significant difference.

Scallions are long and thin, and the little white bulb at the bottom
is straight and does not bulge outward. Spring onions have more of a
bulb, and its size depends on how long the plant is left in the soil.

Confusingly, either type is sometimes referred to as a green onion, at
least in this country. And the nomenclature gets even more complicated
elsewhere. The British use the term spring onion for both spring
onions and scallions, and Australians call both of them shallots,
although to an American that's another member of this allium family
altogether.

Does it matter? It sure does. A spring onion can be used in recipes
that call for scallions, giving an extra boost of sweet onion flavor,
but the reverse isn't necessarily true because scallion bulbs are so
small.

Scallions and spring onions can be used interchangeably in this dish.
The latter will be a bit sweeter than scallions.


Lemony Couscous With Scallions and Chickpeas

10 ounces ( about 1 1/2 cups) couscous
2 large lemons
1/4 cup mild olive oil
1 can (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
8 ounces crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions or spring onions
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the couscous according to package directions. Meanwhile, wash
the lemons and use a Microplane grater to zest them into a small bowl.
Juice the lemons; you will need 6 tablespoons of juice.

Transfer the cooked couscous to a large bowl and fluff with a fork to
separate the grains. Drizzle in the oil and lemon zest, mixing well.

When the couscous has cooled, add the lemon juice and mix well. Add
the chickpeas, the feta cheese and all but one tablespoon of the
scallions (reserve for garnish). Toss to combine; add salt and pepper
to taste.

Transfer to a serving bowl. Garnish with the reserved scallions and
refrigerate for a few hours before serving. Makes about 8 cups (12
servings).


Spring Onion and Ham Tart

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
12 to 16 scallions, ends trimmed, light green and white parts thinly
sliced
5 ounces ham, cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (about 1 cup)
4 large eggs
3/4 cup milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 baked pie shell (9-inch), chilled 4 ounces grated Gruyere cheese or
Swiss cheese

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a saute pan over medium heat,
combine the butter and oil. When the butter has melted, add the
scallions and cook for about 3 minutes, until they have softened. Add
the ham and cook for 30 seconds. Transfer the scallion-ham mixture to
a plate to cool.

In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Add the milk, cream and salt
and pepper to taste, whisking until thoroughly combined. Spread the
scallion-ham mixture in the bottom of the pie shell. Scatter the
cheese over the scallion-ham mixture and top with the egg mixture.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack
to cool slightly before serving. Makes 6 to 8 servings

Think onion dip has to be made from a packaged mix? Think again. The
real thing tastes so much better. Serve with potato chips and
crudites. The dip is best made at least 4 hours in advance and can
easily be made the day before.


Sweet Onion, Scallion and Chive Dip

2 tablespoons salted butter
1 pound sweet onions, such as Vidalia, cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice
1/2 cup finely chopped scallions, white and tender green parts
1/4 cup finely chopped chives
1 cup sour cream
8 ounces cream cheese, at roo temperature
1/2 teaspoon salt (optional)

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onions,
reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until the onions just begin to turn golden. Add the
scallions and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat;
add the chives and mix well. Transfer the onion mixture to a bowl and
set aside to cool slightly.

While the onion mixture is cooling, combine the sour cream, cream
cheese and salt in a medium bowl. (These can be mixed by hand if the
cream cheese is soft or in a food processor if the cream cheese is
still firm.) Add the onion mixture and stir to combine. Taste and add
salt, if desired. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes
about 3 cups.


Mashed Sweet Potatoes With Sour Cream and Scallions

3 pounds medium sweet potatoes
1/2 cup regular or low-fat sour cream
1/3 cup finely chopped scallions, white and tender green parts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place a large piece of aluminum foil on one of the oven racks; preheat
to 350 degrees.

Put the sweet potatoes on the aluminum foil and bake for 45 to 60
minutes, until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork.

Using a large fork to hold the potatoes, peel each one with a small
knife (the skin will peel away easily). In a large bowl, mash the
potatoes with a fork. Add the sour cream, scallions and salt and
pepper to taste and mix until thoroughly combined. Taste and adjust
seasonings as necessary. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings. 


The Smileing Chef
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