Ron,
Thanks for the detail. I think I am ready to go now!
Shane
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Earl [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:34 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Used tank...
Ok I'll do my best here and start from the beginning....plexiglass
and
acrylic are basically the same thing. Plexiglass is actually a
brand kind
of like Kleenex....
I would only start with the 400 on the really deep scratches and the
smaller
ones you could start with like 600. As you sand it you have to use
a
sanding block or something that is flat that you can wrap the sand
paper
over. if you don't you'll put a divot in your tank and make it look
worse
than when you started. After the 600 go up in grit by steps of 200
at a
time (600-800-1000-etc). The 800 sand paper (and up) should be wet
sand
paper. This is what comes with a micro mesh kit or you can buy
larger
sheets from an autobody repair store. from the 800 on up you should
keep
the paper and acrylic wet (I use a spray water bottle) and as you
change the
grit you need to change the direction you sand in. by this I mean
or
should have said that you only sand in one direction and then the
next grit
you use you need to sand perpendicular to the previous direction.
You know
you're ready to move up to the next grit when all of the sanding
marks are
going in the current sanding direction and the previous sanding
marks have
been sanded out. When you're all done sanding you can bust out the
novus.
if you go all the way up to 2400 you should be able to rub out the
dulled
spot by hand with a soft cloth and the novus (tip...never use any
sort of
cloth dry...wet the cloth with water first and then rub in the novus
by
hand) if you don't want to go that high in grit you can use the
drill on
low speed with a sponge and novus as the buffing compound.
the other type of buffing that I had mentioned before requires a
high speed
drill and requires a different procedure....I forgot to check where
you can
get those supplies and I have the day off tomorrow so I won't be
able to get
back to you until after the weekend.
oh I almost forgot...you can use novus on the inside of the tank...
we do
all the time and after 15 years I don't think anyone has
complained...just
make sure that its all wiped clean before you fill it up (like I
really
needed to say that :)
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane Clays" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:53 PM
Subject: RE: Used tank...
> So, I went to one of the LFS's today at lunch just to check it
out, and I
> picked up a SeaScope (free little pamphlet with short articles on
reef
> keeping) and believe it or not, it had an article about buffing
plexiglass
> tanks. Now, I am assuming that the procedure is the same for an
acrylic as
> it is for a plexi, or I am hoping it is. Basically, he recommends
grit
sizes
> for the sandpaper, starting at 400 and ending at 2500. He talks
about
doing
> it with the tank full of water, so he uses magnets instead of a
sanding
> block or drill, and he uses the Novus on the outside of the tank
only. Any
> ways, he goes into some detail on the whole thing, and it sounds
fairly
> easy. A bit time consuming, as you mentioned, but not to hard.
>
> I do have a question. Since I will be doing this w/o water in the
tank, I
> can use the novus. Do I use the novus and the sand paper together,
or will
I
> use the novus and a pad, then use the sandpaper separately? Sounds
like a
> silly question, but I really have no idea. I am guessing that I
will use
the
> 400 grit sandpaper, then separately, use the novus, then go up a
couple
> grades of paper, then use the fine scratch novus, then finish off
with the
> high grit sandpapers. Up to 2500 (is what he talks about). That
should
buff
> that sucker out huh?? It does have some deep scratches. Real deep.
Looks
> like someone got a piece of substrate caught in the cleaning tool,
and
> rubbed it around on the front of the tank a bit before noticing
it.
>
> Thanks again!
> Shane
>
> PS. My wife was very happy to hear that someone from the list
agreed with
> her :-)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Earl [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 1:30 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Used tank...
>
> once again this really depends on how bad the scratches are. I
> would start
> out with a sponge type of pad and try using novus #3 as the
> compound. if
> this isn't abrasive enough we use a cloth wheel (its a white one
> I'll ask to
> see where we get them from) that's about six inches in diameter.
as
> far as
> the compound that we use with this we use hard compound that comes
> in a
> stick. we use stuff that's either black or orange (again I'll
have
> to check
> where we get this). This is really only necessary for deeper
> scratches and
> if this still doesn't take them out you'll have to sand them out.
I
> would
> recommend a micromesh kit that you should be able to get at you
> local pet
> shop or plastic factory. I know we sell these. you can start as
> low as 400
> grit and work your way up and finish it off with a quick buff. If
> you can't
> find one of these kits or the novus (which is also available at
most
> pet
> shops / plastics shops let me know and I can give you my work
phone
> and you
> can buy it from them.
>
> ron
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shane Clays" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:07 PM
> Subject: RE: Used tank...
>
>
> > Thanks for the details on the buffing. I have the drill. I can
buy
> a pad,
> > but do you know the particular type of pad and what exact
> compound(s) to
> > use? I really really do not want to ruin it, or make it worse.
> Time is not
> a
> > problem. The tank is full now, and wont even be available until
> end of
> > November. I wont be moving into the house for a year, so I have
> lots of
> > time. I am just starting to get a plan of attack in line so I am
> prepared
> > when the tank comes available.
> >
> > TIA,
> > Shane
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ron Earl [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:26 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Used tank...
> >
> > just thought that I'd put in my two cents....
> >
> > the price is good or at least I'd say that he won't be
> > screwing
> > you.....as far as the price for a new canopy and to buff out the
> > tank that's
> > another story. I work for an aquarium co. and I don't know
about
> > retail
> > prices but you should be able to get a conopy for around $200
not
> > 300....and
> > the price to buff the tank is way to much. As you probably
know
> > most all
> > of the scratches will disappear when you fill it with water.
they
> > are
> > relatively easy to fix...well actually there really easy to fix
> just
> > time
> > consuming and you'll need some patience to make it look better
and
> > not
> > worse. if the scratches are bad enough to need some sanding
work
> > make sure
> > to keep the sander or sanding block flat not matter what!!!!!
if
> it
> > just
> > needs buffing just hook a buffing wheel up to a drill and use
lots
> > of
> > compound and make sure to not buff in one spot for to long..
more
> > or less
> > that's how the "professionals" do it. lol
> >
> > good luck
> >
> > ron e.
> > Ps
> > Just today I made a "topless" canopy which I thought was a
really
> > good idea
> > for anyone that wanted to cover up the water line etc. and still
> > suspend MH
> > lights or just keep the temp. of the tank down. this was also
> save
> > on the
> > wallet
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Shane Clays" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:01 PM
> > Subject: RE: Used tank...
> >
> >
> > > Thanks. Sounds like a deal then huh? The shelf thing sounds
like
> a
> > good
> > > idea. My concern is making it look as nice as possible, or the
> > wifee wont
> > go
> > > for it. My question on the shelf idea is does that then
suspend
> > totally
> > > above the top of the tank? If that is so, that means I will
have
> a
> > water
> > > line going across the top of the tank. I do like the idea of
> > having the
> > > lights above the tank for heat issues though. It does have a
> > canopy on it
> > > right now. It is heavy (the stand and canopy are made of oak)
> and
> > it is
> > > short (that's why I wouldn't be able to use it, couldn't fit
MHs
> > on it,
> > even
> > > now the VHOS he has on, it gets a ton of salt creep from water
> > splash) so
> > I
> > > don't know if I could utilize it or not. Do you by any chance
> have
> > a pic
> > of
> > > the shelf system so I can have a visual? Not that I question
the
> > looks,
> > but
> > > would like to see how it is built.
> > >
> > > My thoughts on the whole pump thing is... I already have an
> Iwaki
> > 100 RLT.
> > I
> > > would probably use that to run my skimmer a couple of returns
in
> > the 70
> > > gallon and then a few returns in the 170. Then, I would use my
> mag
> > 2400
> > and
> > > drill 3 surge returns on the bottom of the tank as well as 2
in
> > the lower
> > > back of the tank and 2 in the upper back, the split all of
them
> > with some
> > > locline. The Iwaki would push a fair amount of water through
the
> > 170 while
> > > proving a soft linear current in the 70, then the mag would
> really
> > create
> > a
> > > nice surge effect if allowed to run full blast. I would run
that
> > on a
> > random
> > > current with my Aquatroller. I would run my chiller with an
> > additional mag
> > > 1200, which would return directly to the sump. Hopefully, with
> > that much
> > > water, the chiller will not have to be used, because the
chiller
> > will have
> > a
> > > tough time cooling that much water.
> > >
> > > Next concern is lights. There are 4 vhos spanning the length
of
> > the tank.
> > I
> > > have 2 175 watt MHs I would transfer over. I would leave the 4
> > vhos on the
> > > 70 for the anemone. I think I will probably need to add
another
> > 250 watt
> > mh.
> > > Maybe go with the 175 watters on the ends, the 250 in the
middle
> > and then
> > > the VHOs. That would give me 6 watts per gallon on the 170.
Not
> a
> > ton, but
> > I
> > > think enough.
> > >
> > > So, buffing it out is not to tough huh? Great. That makes me
> fell
> > better.
> > > Any tips???
> > >
> > > Thanks again!
> > > Shane C.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 4:40 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: Used tank...
> > >
> > > Hi, Shane. Hoping to encourage you to do the deal. 170 gallons
> is
> > a
> > > lot of
> > > tank, especially connected to your 70 gallon. Seems like a
very
> > > interesting
> > > set-up. If the 170 is rectangular, you can simply build a
shelf
> > over
> > > it and
> > > mount the lights on the underside of the shelf. You can place
> > light
> > > things
> > > for storage on top and put a nice looking trim around it for a
> > more
> > > professional look. You can do this by buying premachined
boards
> at
> > > Home Depot
> > > and mounting them on some inexpensive shelf brackets. The
whole
> > > project can
> > > be done really well for under $100. You would need a good
return
> > > pump and for
> > > a system that size an Iwaki WMD40XRLT would work very well.
> These
> > > are
> > > available online for around $160 plus shipping and will
> literally
> > > run
> > > forever. You can, of course, hard plum the entire system
easily
> > with
> > > sched.
> > > 40 PVC. I have about 500 gallons of systems on the second
floor
> of
> > > our house.
> > > The weight is not a problem as long as we don't add waterbeds!
> You
> > > should try
> > > to put your tanks perpendicular to floor joists. Electrical
> supply
> > > is more of
> > > a concern. You can very easily polish out the majority of
> defects
> > in
> > > the
> > > plexi by yourself for much less than $200. Go for it! HTH.
> > > ________________________________________
> > >
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