I agree with Chuck on this point,tremendous liability if not done 
to building codes. A permit is required and inspection before 
concrete is required here,they will make you remove it and fine 
you if you dont follow the laws. Again,climbing guards are 
required as well. Must also be grounded per NFPA standards.
An alternative is a pipe mast,which I use here. Its 30 feet 
high,on top of my roof,guyed,and holds 3 antennas for 2 repeaters 
and a link. It has served me well for 30 years!  73,Lee,N3APP

Chuck Kelsey wrote:
> I think I'll continue to install mine "by the book." It will keep the 
> building inspector happy and will keep the insurance company happy. To 
> me, it makes sense to do the job right. It's a lot of work in the first 
> place, but digging the hole is the hardest part. Pouring some concrete 
> is easy.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Micheal Salem wrote:
> 
> 
>>The comments about vibration from wind noise are well taken.  I think 
>>it better to separately guy the antenna rather than support it with 
>>the house.  But if you have limited space, sometimes you have limited 
>>or no choice.
>>
>>However, I am not sure that I would drill a hole in the tower above 
>>the ground to drain water.  Although round holes can alleviate stress 
>>when there is a crack (you drill a hole at the end of a crack and hope 
>>that the extra surface area spreads the stress and stops the crack 
>>from propagating), a hole at the bottom of a tower may be a source for 
>>a crack to propagate from, particularly if the tower moves a little in 
>>the wind. 
>>
>>The solution I used to drain water in the tower legs was to dig a hole 
>>an extra foot deep, fill that extra foot or so with rock, mount the 
>>tower through the rock at least six to 8 inches, then fill the top 
>>part of the hole with concrete.  You can do the same with sand instead 
>>of rock.  This allows water to drain through the concrete pad into the 
>>rock (or sand) and out of the tower.  I don't think this technique is 
>>any secret. Seems like I read it either in an amateur radio magazine 
>>or it may have been in my Rohn catalog.   Painting the bottom of the 
>>tower before it goes into the concrete probably is a good idea.  I 
>>wish I had done that with the Rustoleum I used to paint the guy wire 
>>poles.
>>
>>Micheal Salem N5MS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Be aware that when a tower is connected to a house for support it 
>>>will cause noise created by wind, vibration, creaking, moaning, 
>>>grinding, etc. to be transmitted throughout the house. This can keep 
>>>the wife and maybe you upset while trying to sleep to the point that 
>>>you wish you didn't install it that way. Depending on tower section 
>>>installation, those who live in areas where it can freeze, you may 
>>>consider drilling a 1/8 inch hole aprox 1/2 inch above earth level.  
>>>You will get condensation build up over time. Maybe not in AZ but 
>>>elsewhere other installers may consider it. If it cracks due to frost 
>>>freeze you will have a major problem. Lastly, don't do as a newbie 
>>>tower installer I know did. He installed the tower upside down. Yes, 
>>>when it rained the water flowed down the tower legs and right into 
>>>the lower sections. If you bury bottom section in dirt, even 
>>>galvanized metal will over time rust right at grass level. Oxygen 
>>>along with acids in the soil will act on galvanizing at grass 
>>>level. That's why towers should have a coating of heavy tar or 
>>>rubberized paint to protect the legs. Don't forget the ground rod.
>>>Gary Katona K2UQ age 67
>>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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