Forty someodd years ago, we were using the slightly older Motorola
80D and 140D's as mobiles. Cleaing them was a farily simple task:
First stop was the local hospital supply and bought a package of
Haemo-sol ... the stuff the hospitals used to clean dried blood
from bed sheets etc.
Next, we removed the individual receiver, transmitter and power
supply chassis' from the mobile package - then took off the
individual covers from the transmitter chassis.
Into the kitchen sink using the hotest water we could stand and
Haemo-sol. Using an acid brush, we washed off the accumulated dirt
and grime.
Rinsing with hot water too, several times.
To dry, we set the chassis in the oven - temperature set at about
180 degrees and proped the door open a bit with an empty tin can -
let the moisture escape.
Clean and dry, we retubed the strips, fired them up and retuned
them to our frequencies.
Worked very well for us.
The mobile housings were washed, rust removed, primed and
repainted ... with Motorola Part numbered paint. I found a couple
of those rattle cans in my garage recently.
Mike, do you need the part numbers?
Neil - WA6KLA
skipp025 wrote:
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> > Fred Townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I'd like to second Skipps comments and add one of my
> > own. At the factory we used ordinary dish washers (until
> > we got the commercial washers) to clean PC boards.
>
> Also guilty of doing said... although I don't use the
> dishwasher for electronics parts any more.
>
> > Spic and Span is a little harsh. For general cleaning,
> > including automatic dish washers, useArm and Hammer
> > baking soda.
>
> I use Palmolive Liquid Dish Soap in warm water for the
> more sensitive stuff. I've tried and used Spic and Span,
> TSP, Pine-Sol (or equiv) and 409 on the more mechanical
> items. It's hard to beat the grease cutting power of
> original powder Spic-and-Span. "Why that micor cabinet
> looks almost new... "
>
> For some sensitive electronics items (like variable caps),
> a tumble in crushed Walnut shells does the trick. Now the
> shells are replaced with plasitic cleaning media bought
> from local gun stores.
>
> > If you think someone has used an acid flux (sometimes
> > necessary to solder nickel or steel) clean with ammonia
> > before the baking soda. Finally if you have rosin flux
> > isopropyl alcohol works well. Don't use rubbing alcohol
> > (contains water) or use alcohol in the automatic dish
> > washer (it will burn).
> > Fred AE6QL
>
> Thanks Fred... for dry solder flux I've been using Acetone
> on a sturdy Q-Tip.
>
> All these hints are very handy to know.
>
> 73's
> skipp
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
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