1500 volts at 1 amp is the same as 1500 amps at 1 volt = 1500 watts only difference is 1 amp requires a small wire and 1500 amps a BIG wire.
Power is power no matter how you get there. There should be a plug coming from the low voltage supply to the upper left (from back) of the control chassis. On the upper right there should be another plug with quite a few wires on it. Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there again today hopefully in daylight and will try again. Robert -----Original Message----- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 8:44 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Thanks Robert, I am going out into the shack tonight, I think I am going to trace each wire and see just where they go, this should hopefully help me find a home for each one. I lloked at TB1 where some of the wires goes, says they should come from the PA, but then they don't exactly correspond to the points listed on the PA. Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and output with > so239 connectors. > I'll include pictures of that also. > It still looks good to get to shop today. > > Robert.. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are > referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same > amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a > spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That > should not > > be a big problem. > > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in > the PURC > > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big > wire > > wound mother. > > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you > remove the > > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side > (from front) > > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans > on the 2 > > heat sinks. > > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after > we added > > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more > years. > > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an > average of 18 > > to 20 hours a day. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same > purpose > > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the > unkey > > of the mic? > > > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz > and > > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > > transfer > > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > > > Robert.. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the > > cards > > > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the > > Station > > > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and > > squelch > > > card, but was told they were not needed. > > > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Mathew, > > > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and > the > > > one with a > > > > tracer is the CT. > > > > > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what > would > > > have been > > > > the rear door interlock. > > > > > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > > > pictures and > > > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and > questions > > > > > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and > please > > > bear > > > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales > > me. > > > > > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > > > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > > > > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > > > > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > > > > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > > > > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > > > > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > > > > > > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of > > what > > > I > > > > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > > > > > > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this > time, > > > some > > > > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > > > > forward. > > > > > > > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > > > > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them > another > > > > name, regardless the colors are: > > > > > > > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > > > > Brown/Green > > > > > > > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached > > > inside > > > > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them > > in, > > > > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > > > > > > > White > > > > White/Black > > > > Brown/White > > > > Black and Dark Grey together > > > > Solid grey > > > > Brown/Yellow > > > > > > > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > > > > > > > Red/Green > > > > Red/Yellow > > > > Red/White > > > > Two Grey Together > > > > White/Green > > > > Solid Grey > > > > > > > > There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind > > the > > > > Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering > > > panel, > > > > only an assumption. > > > > > > > > Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires > > from > > > > the harness. > > > > > > > > Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I > > am > > > > sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. > > > > > > > > The other wires are: > > > > > > > > Brown/White > > > > Brown/Yellow > > > > Tan/Black > > > > Red/Yellow > > > > > > > > And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, > which > > I > > > do > > > > believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be > as > > > > follows: > > > > > > > > TB1-3 = Blue > > > > TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow > > > > TB1-2 = Blue > > > > TB1-7 = Yellow > > > > TB1-5 = Yellow/Green > > > > TB1-6 = Yellow > > > > > > > > Thanks for the help > > > > > > > > Mathew > > > > > > > > > > > > Going to make another assumption here, there should be no > > > difference > > > > in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be > > > > reversable between either TP1 points? > > > > > > > > And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply > > > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we > got > > > left. > > > > > > > > > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the > wires > > > go. > > > > > How are you on the harness ? > > > > > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
