Yes Ben, I did. Ron said they "didn't order the parts, but will this week." I suspect I am not the only one who would rather see a more scale coupler on the back end of this well-detailed die-cast engine. The AF version has a bar or tongue or whatever you want to call it screwed onto the back of the truck. The AF compatible coupler is then screwed onto the end of this bar. The screw hole for the AF compatible coupler is way to big for the Kadee coupler box screws, plus, if one were to attach the Kadee coupler box to the bar, I imagine it would then be difficult to get the correct coupler height, and to achieve the proper coupler overhang. I kind of wonder why Ron did not go ahead and order the parts, which I am assuming would include the coupler mounting pad and screws, and perhaps just include them with the AF version for "hi-scalers" such as myself. But I know he had lots on his plate, just bringing this engine to market. Would not be hard to make something, either out of metal or resin. Which brings me to my question: How thick is your coupler mounting pad? I am assuming the overhang on the Northern tender shell is the same on both scale and AF versions, and if so, the coupler pad thickness could be the same for both. Roy I
> From: bentrous <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 14:55:03 +0000 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [S-Trains] Fw: {S-Scale List} AM Northern coupler change > > Sure enough looking at my scale version of the Northern, there is a > formed stamped T-shaped metal piece that is screwed to the tender > floor (Santa Fe version) that drops the coupler mounting height. The > stem of the T extends under and beyond the shell of the tender. The > coupler is mounted to the stem. A similar device could easily be > made by laminating flat plastic and attaching to the tender floor. > Has anyone tried contacting AM to see if they sell this part (with > screws) separately? > > Ben Trousdale > > --- In [email protected], "Arden Goehring" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> Just make your own pad. Get a piece of styrene or even wood of the > appropriate thickness (about 3/32), drill two holes for the coupler > box mounting holes. I like to use the left and right box holes > (there are four in a cross formation) although sometimes due to > clearance or other problem I use the center & back holes. Then drill > & tap holes into the frame of the tender. Actually with the long > self tapping screws that come with the 802's you can drill holes and > carefully crank in the screws, maybe backing in and out as you > gradually progress so as not to break the screws. >> >> You could also glue everything instead, but I do not like that > method. It is not as reliable and it cannot be easily taken apart. >> >> Hey, you need to stopping fowling (fouling) and start fishing with > the Big Boys. {:-) >> >> But to my eye, that would elevate the coupler a bit too much. Plus, > the >> tender shell extends down about 3/32 of an inch below the tender > floor, so >> the coupler box would not be mounted square. From what Gerry said > in an >> email to just me, I think I understand that on the scale version > there is a >> coupler mounting pad which positions the coupler box correctly. > There is no >> coupler mounting pad on my AC hirail version. The bar on which the > AF >> coupler is now mounted is actually held on with two screws, so it > would be >> easy to remove. I am one of those "hi-scalers," neither fish nor > fowl... :) >> Roy >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
