Andy,
The little Dockside I mentioned last weekend was purchased with hi-rail
drivers. I still have them and they have steel tires and not
stainless. I have noticed very little aging or rusting. Therefore I
doubt if one has to go to stainless when the regular stuff can last 50
years without rust.
Next how would you or Simon add extra weight to the pilot of a steam
engine? The ones I have are just a tongue with an axle. The only trick
I do know is to wrap solder around the axle but I haven't tried that
yet. The trailing truck normally has more mass so weights can be hidden
in the frames. My FEF had a couple of .38 calibre slugs wedged into its
trailing truck for several years and that really helped.
Bob Werre
BobWphoto.com
Andrew_Malette wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I've watched the thread on stainless steel etc. Stainless steel is really
> hard to turn and cut on a miniature lathe. I know, I have had to turn
> over
> 200 wheelsets on my Unimat III
>
>
> I
>
> Another factor that affects rail adhesion is how the engine truck and
> trailing trucks are attached. If they are sprung, then they can actually
> reduce the adhesion factor. I found this out on my K-3 Pacifics. The
> first
> ones I built used the AM spring on the engine truck. Not really any
> problems. Simon Parent suggested using weight in the engine truck frames
> instead. The last two I build used this method and they even track
> better.
>
>
>
> BTW, it's Mr. Spock, not Dr. Spock, Ed. And the others were Tuvok from
> Voyager and T'Pol from Enterprise. Just a little Vulcan trivia.
>
> Live Long and Prosper...May Your Day Pass Without Incident.
>
> Andy Malette
> www.mlwservices.ca
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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