Hello Bill and all
I am with you on the having to be a contractor to buy issue. I am semi retired
from contracting and found that even with the license I have had issues with
buying from some vendors who don't understand making the sale.
You mentioned the oversize sheets which are pretty common to good lumber yards
but I have also used door skins to make curved surfaces and also some masonite
products when the bend isn't too radical. Glueing the skin over the plywood or
other wood pieces in rough shapes of the curve kinda like wine barrel shapes
should give it some body and a smooth curve. The skins could also aid in the
traditions of inclines on layouts and be easily laminated when needed.
On Apr 28, 2011, at 5:06 AM, Bill Lane wrote:
> All,
>
> I have worked as a purchasing agent twice at a commercial wood shop, one of
> which was a cabinet shop. I bought LOTS of plywood and not the kind you
> would see at your local lumber yards. Most dont know you can get sheets
> that are 5 x 10 and possibly 5 x 12.
>
> I have bought the bendable plywood a few times. You have to be very specific
> as to what direction the bend is because you can get it both ways. It is
> really amazing stuff. You would not believe how a piece of ¾ plywood
> readily bends without effort. Thinner sheets pretty much flop into a bend on
> their own.
>
> Unfortunately the main supplier of such plywood in my area and a very major
> vendor when I was working will not sell to walk ups even if you are paying
> cash. You have to be in some sort of construction business and they will ask
> you to prove it. I dont understand that part at all. A sale is a sale
..
>
> In reference to my curved rail issue, the thoughts of laminating something
> did come to mind. I did cut a piece of regular everyday ½ plywood to 4
> wide. It really did not bend at all. I had known about the relief cut
> method. But by the time you relieve it enough to bend there is probably not
> much structure left. I am using ¾ plywood for the deck so it will be strong
> no matter how I tackle the curved rail problem. Much of my fixture will have
> aluminum bracing (angles & flat bars) so the glue wont stick to it. I am
> routing recesses under the joint areas and putting aluminum flat bar there
> so I wont have problems getting the frame out once the glue is dry.
>
> I wanted the inside frame to be curved so I can have a continuously flowing
> backdrop. I will eventually became familiar with the bending capabilities of
> Masonite for the backdrop!
>
> Thank You,
> Bill Lane
>
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