Paint your model first! Before too much time has elapsed, don't wait months
to letter, fresher paint is better than older paint.
Cut very wide margins around the lettering, very wide. These are not the
normal waterside decals at all. Drop in luke warm water (like that term) 68
degree or do the math and remember the 9/5 or 5/9 and the + or - 32 rule to get
your C. ha!
Once wet they show up nicely but you never need to cut close like you would
with the normal decals, think dry transfer here. The lettering is printed on a
paper with a light glue and the thin paper over that printing also has a light
glue. The whole object is to get the, "decal" to come of the bottom paper and
adhere to the top thin paper. There is no actual decal, there is only the
lettering sticking to the underside of the top film. letter by letter or logo
part by logo part.
Lay this down over the model where you want it and gently burnish it down.
Use some kind of small tool and go lightly. The idea is to get the water out
from underneath each component of the lettering. This should make it stick to
the model. When you think you are there, fire up the hair dryer, pass it back
and forth and it will begin to look like it is snuggling down just like using
decal solvent setting solution. Important point here is 3 day old paint works
better than three month old paint.
Okay, You stop, go get a beer, come back, and all is now cool, but there is a
sheen to what you just did. Use a very sharp point. I say a very sharp point ,
and pick at the edge of the sheen. It should begin to lift the film off and
then you can use good tweezers. (Don Thompson can tell you what good tweezers
really are!) to pull the film off. If it is all dry, it had better be, The film
comes off looking wrinkly. There is probably still a strange looking spotty
sheen here and there. A moist, not dripping wet, brush will then remove any
shiny (think glue here) residue.
Clear coat, satin coat, Dullcoat, what ever turns you on but do something.
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