Have had good results using Wahl hair trmmer oil. Stan
--- In [email protected], Terry Dillon <sscalechooch@...> wrote:
>
> I agree, lets start another controversy :)
> Â
> I have a loop of 50 ft and several yard tracks. over the first year of
> operation with about 35 captive cars (all steel wheels) I used GooGone with
> two "centerline" rollers. One had wet roll, and the second had the dry
> clean-up roller. BUT all the time I was having to take a dry cloth to wipe
> up black residue off the rail, particularly at transition from straight to
> curve.
> Â
> A year ago, using tips form the SoCal railroad group, I tried rubbing
> alcohol. I carefully cleaned the rails and each wheel on the cars and
> engines. So far trains have run very well and the cars are showing no signs
> of gunk accumulation. Periodically, I will run the centerline cars with
> rubbing alcohol on the rollers to gather up dust and "make me feel like I
> am doing good for the RR."
> Â
>  I also follow a tip from Roger Nulton to use a small piece of unpainted
> HOMOSOTE to wipe the tops of the rails whenever a week or so has elapsed
> between when I operate trains.
> Â
> Terry Dillon,
> running the PRR in Burbank CA
> Â
> Question for the group:
> Â
> has anyone successfully replaced the Flyer compatible couplers on the
> Centerline cars with scale couplers of any type?
> Â
> Â
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Peter Vanvliet <groups@...>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:03 AM
> Subject: {S-Scale List} Next Controversial Topic: Track Cleaning
>
>
> Â
> Actually, this is more of a tip.
>
> I clean the wheels on all my rolling stock several times a year (more
> precisely both before and after each 3-5 shows our club does). I started
> having engine stalling problems several months ago. I'd wipe the track clean
> with either a Bright Boy or a "baby lap pad" (a dense cotton material) put
> under the Bright Boy (or a flat eraser) and the engine would go across the
> offending area again. Then the next day, the same thing happened again. It
> got so bad that in some areas I'd test the rail voltage to see if a feeder
> wire had broken. I even opened up my SHS NW2 switcher to see if a wire had
> come loose inside of it.
>
> I then remembered a tip from years ago from a guy on the N-scale Yahoo group
> list when I was in N-scale. He recommended metal polish for cleaning the
> rails. I never did try in on any of my N-scale layouts. So, in "desperation"
> I bought a bottle of "Wright's Silver Polish" at the grocery store about a
> month or so ago. I polished a section of track in an area that almost
> guaranteed an engine to stall, and the results were amazing. I spent the next
> several evenings polishing all my layout's track. I did not clean the wheels
> on my equipment again, because this was shortly after our last show.
>
> It is a good month later now, and I have not had a single stall! My jerky SHS
> NW2 has now returned to its normal smooth sailing. I have no idea how often I
> have to polish the rail, but the several nights was well worth the investment
> to get my smooth-running layout back again. So, this appears to be a solution
> for me. I use Micro Engineering code 83 "unweathered" rail (all hand-laid).
>
> I'm posting this just in case someone has, or will have, a similar problem.
> Â - Peter.
>
>
> --
>
> Peter Vanvliet (peter@...)
> Houston, Texas
>
> My Model Railroad Site (RSS feed)
> Fourth Ray Software
> Houston S Gaugers
> N.A.S.G.
> --
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
[email protected]
[email protected]
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[email protected]
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
