Paul, Your technique of using the brass tabs is what I learned from our
local mentor, Jack Troxell. Another mentor Fred Little made up a two
piece forming tool to make the tabs with an offset to contour to the web
of the rail. We solder them to the side of the rail (I use silver
bearing solder), then drill the holes and round the edges for
appearance. I use the 00-90 screws while Jack used to make up rivets
(both work). We generally also use the same material (but a bit
thicker) that PC ties are made from but without the copper laminate.
We also hinge most of the other ends. This allows the points to move
very easily and allows the use of the weaker twin coil machines if
desired. Jumper wires assure electrical contact.
In a couple of places where I used a replacement PC tie for the
throwbar, it seems as though they eventually give up. Re-soldering with
scenery, ballast and structures in place isn't fun.
Bob Werre
On 9/27/12 4:22 PM, Paul Vaughn wrote:
I can not beleive you guys are having such a bad time using PC Ties. I
have used them sence 1966 with out the problems you are talking about.
Try using a 0.015 strip of brass the width of the tie soldered to the
point rail. You will have to notch the point base to accomidate the
shim stock then solder in place.. Next drill a clearence hole for a
00-90 screw through the shim piece and a tap size hole in the pc tie
then tap the tie for the 00-90 srew. Assemble in place. This will
allow the points to pivot with out causing stress. Ed Stimpson Jr. did
an artical in MR in the 1980's about using PC Ties, you should read
it. Brian Ellerby used the closure rail as a flexable rail. A gap was
cut near the frog in the closure rail then he spiked only two ties and
soldered the point ends to the PC throw bar. Either method works with
out the failures you describe.
I have been using a 40 watt iron and haven't delamated any PC Tie. My
trick is to use liquid rosin solder flux in making the joint. Only
heating enough to make the joint.
Paul
