Btw, the weathering techniques are covered in the text and picture captions on the second and third pages of the Jim Six article. I prefer craft paints to the model paint colors Jim used because most of the paint ends up in the trash! Any extra texture from courser ground pigments in the craft paint adds to the dirt and rust effects.
Pieter Roos Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:46 AM, Pieter Roos <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi Bob; > > The principle technique is to brush a fairly heavy wash of "grunge" color > over part of the car (one side of the door, for example) and then wipe it off > with a soft sponge, cotton swab, etc. wiping in the direction of gravity. The > color will remain in and around details like rivets, panel lines and door > latches, as well as leaving some color on the whole car side. You can use > craft store acrylic paint, artist tube acrylic or oils. > > Chalk and airbrush effects can be added over the base coat to blend or > simulate load spillage. > > Pieter Roos > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 10, 2013, at 10:23 AM, Bob Werre <[email protected]> wrote: > >> I really like the 'grunge' weathering on Jim's car. Particularly the rows >> of rivets and the braces on the Murphy roof and how the dirt collects in the >> joints. This is something that I would like to obtain. I've done a fair >> amount of airbrushing and some powder applications but none seem to work as >> well as I'm seeing presented here. Any hints on accomplishing that look? >> >> Bob Werre >> PhotoTraxx >> >> >> On 9/9/13 7:30 PM, Pieter Roos wrote: >>> >>> Hi Bill; >>> >>> Neat! Those are based on the 1932 ARA/AAR car with flat plate ends and >>> roof. I posted a link to the Jim Six article on building the freight >>> version a last month. >>> >>> http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/155/11262/january-2003-page-48 >>> >>> Pieter E. Roos > > >
