Roger,
The screen fabric I used is actually a woven wire fabric.  I tried a couple of 
different craft adhesives that were supposed to stop frays, but they didn't work.  I 
think probably because the wire is so fine and the "weave" is open, so there isn't 
much surface for the adhesive to attach.  The next time I'm in the craft store, I'll 
look for some Fray Check and give it a try.
Thanks,
BG1
 "Roger V. Petrella Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Here's a tip to help you with 
the fraying. Go to the fabric store and get
a little bottle of "Fray Check". My wife uses it all the time in her
sewing stuff. Just apply a little to the area and let dry BEFORE you cut
and you shouldn't have a problem.

Roger Petrella
Franktown, CO



> [Original Message]
> From: Bull Gator 
> To: Howell S Jobbins 
> Cc: 
> Date: 12/16/2002 5:15:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [S-Trains] Oil Depot Photos Posted to the S-Trains Gallery
>
> 
> SteveJay,
> The fencing is mosquito screen fabric from Walmart. If you look closely
at the photos, you can see the fabric is woven in a running bond, not the
typical 45 degree pattern. This makes the pattern difficult to cut. If
you get to close to a cross in the pattern, the fabric will fray and
unravel. The fence sections are 1.5 inches high (8 feet scale) by anywhere
from 6 inches to 14 inches long. The posts are somewhat longer to fit into
holes drilled in the base. The posts are located 1.5 inches apart (8 feet
scale). The fabric pieces are 1.5 inches by the required running length. 
Even cutting them out very slowly and carefully, I averaged one good
section for every four I started.
> The fence posts and rails are 0.035 inch styrene rod. They were
assembled using Testors Liquid Cement. I assembled the rails and poles for
a given section of fencing on a flat surface for better alignment, then
spray painted the assembly. I laid a piece of plastic cove molding to
serve as a berm and mounted the fence along the centerline of the berm by
drilling holes into the molding. I then just slipped the completed post
and rail sections into the holes and glued them in while maintaining a 1.5
inch height on the rails.
> I then attached the fence fabric one section at a time by taking some of
the fabric "threads" and tying the fence fabric to the posts and rails. If
you take a look at real chain link fence you can see how it is done. This
is tedious work and you must be extremely careful not to catch any of the
cut ends of the fence fabric or it will unravel and you are back to square
one.
> The last step was to glue the ballast stone to the berm. The ballst
stone was used to help keep the posts and the fencing in a nice, straight
line.
> Just like real chain link fencing, the fabric does not turn corners. It
is stopped at the end of each run and a new section begins around the
corner. I thought about inserting rods at the end of each run just like on
real chain link fencing, but you've got to stop somewhere .
> I have looked at the hobby shop kits that use wedding veil type fabric
for the fence material. The fabric is white and must be attached to the
rails/posts, then stretched, then painted. I think my system is about the
same amount of work but the end result is, IMHO, far superior to the kits. 
Not only that - you can make tons of fence with a $6 roll of screen versus
$12 for a few feet with the kits!
> Good luck with your fencing projects!
> BG1
> Howell S Jobbins wrote:BG1,
> 
> Nice work, I left a note asking about your technique for constructing the
> wire fencing. I note in a previous picture you had two runs, and turned
> the corner. Would like info on it's construction. Thanks, SteveJay.
> 
> PS: You guys should add some pictures too. See ya'
> 
> 
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