RE: chewing on trees
This message is from: "Faeo, Victoria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > at the barn they have the trees wrapped with chicken wire gus > pretty much leaves them alone and haven't seen him trying to eat any > part that is exposed; and the chicken wire makes a good back/wither > scratcher when the need arises! > > Reena Just before I got Einar (the magnificent Fjord!), I had a rescued Morab-Appy-Draft and he ate everything made of wood he could get his lips on. lol I tried everything (Quit paint, Irish Spring soap, birch sapplings offered on a regular basis) and the only thing that worked was chicken-wire, with all of the sharp edges removed. It worked wonderfully. The only problem was that I could not completely cover the birch tree roots (my pasture is a spruce-birch forest), and he loved the roots. So I did loose a few birch trees that way and had to cut them down. I only had this rescue horse for a year and a half, but if I had kept him forever I know he would have eventually eaten all of the trees. He had lots of space and got lots of exercise, I just think because he was starved until I got him, he was always very hungry. Eventually I would have had a beautiful meadow pasture! Einar, on the other hand, doesn't chew the trees or bushes at all. He only nibbles on the front gate pine 2x4 when he is extremely hungry, which has only happened a few times. Vic in Knik, Alaska (10 degrees) The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
RE: fjordhorse-digest V2007 #42
This message is from: "Faeo, Victoria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > The cheapest and safest and best thing I have found for wood chewing > is a bar of Irish Spring soap. Works great. > Susie This didn't work for me. My horse (non-fjord) ate it! Vic - Knik, Alaska The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
RE: PARELLI,,, and many others
This message is from: "Faeo, Victoria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jean, that sounds like just the DVD I need to get for Einar. He sometimes responds very well to the bit commands but is inconsistent, and doesn't like to stop when he is trotting - of course that is a seat command mostly, right? I guess I need to ask that one, too: How to stop? Ha! I don't think he remembers his training on that one, or else I don't do it right. It was 30 degrees at my cabin in Knik this morning. Up from 5 degrees the day before. Amazing! Vic -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jean Ernest Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 2:58 PM To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com Subject: Re: PARELLI,,, and many others This message is from: "Jean Ernest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I really like buck Brannaman's Video's/DVD's in the "Making of a Bridle Horse" series, the #1 the Snaffle bit" shows in detail how to make a horse light and responsive but giving a release at the right time. The Parelli clinics I have gone to don't really seem to address that so much. But I think the "Behavior" stuff they are putting out is great! Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, clear, +5 degrees The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
RE: Glory bits
This message is from: "Faeo, Victoria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, Jerry. This is an awesome summary about the purpose and use of a bit with respect to my question, and how the Glory bit fits in. I'll go to the archives and read more. Thanks! Vic and Einar -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jerrell friz Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 8:01 PM To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com Subject: Re: Glory bits This message is from: "jerrell friz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Do you think this is just his limited training experience, or do you > think a Glory driving bit would be better since he is a Fjord? In > other words, how common and comfortable is the > Glory--this would depend on the rider/driver > bit? There are a ton of questions in the archives on glory bits. I like the Glory bit, and also the Mylar bit [in sweet iron] custom made, not the cheap SS Chinese made one. The Glory bit, is excellent to start a horse in, just use the top ring. The bottom ring makes it a curb type bit, which is good once your horse understands what the bit is for. AND, more importantly the rider/driver, understands. This brings up a question. What is a bit for? The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
RE: illness demeanor & training too
This message is from: "Faeo, Victoria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is really interesting, Pat. I have a 5 yo gelding that has had just a little professional training, and he is using a Myler Level I bit. He either did not learn his turning very well or does not like the bit, because he does feel like trying to turn a Mac truck (lol) - but just sometimes. Do you think this is just his limited training experience, or do you think a Glory driving bit would be better since he is a Fjord? In other words, how common and comfortable is the Glory bit? Victoria and Einar (I'm finally off Digest!) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pat Holland Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 4:09 AM To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com Subject: illness demeanor & training too This message is from: "Pat Holland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I mentioned about the illness issue in Fjords and sometimes that demeanor dovetails with training too - For example - a bad fitting saddle on another breed might cause them to buck or create bolting issues - where in a Fjord - you might just get less "willingness" - to say, canter, or relax, or extend a trot. They still TRYeven when things don't feel right - but they tend to give less - thus causing the term "stubbornness" to find its way into the Fjord terminology and discription. They aren't stubborn - they are just saying "it hurtsbut I'll give you all I can." The same with bits - Fjords tend to get heavy if it's the wrong bit and lean into it - where in other breeds they throw their heads and you feel like your riding without steering - with some Fjords it just feels like your trying to steer a semi loaded with iron ore. A very good trainer once told me that the Fjords make you a better trainer - and I think it boils down to the little-quiet things they tell us - so you have to be more "tuned in". Just a thought. Pat Holland The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
RE: Stallion for sale explanation (very long)
This message is from: "Faeo, Victoria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I understand, Joe. Your first e-mail was a statement of exasperation, and after re-reading it, you made the point very well! And you are very justified to express your tortured position. I think BOTH sellers need to stop fooling around (enough is enough) and finish the sell. According to business law, they have not fulfilled their selling obligation and agreement, implied or otherwise, so you are in a valid position to correct the wrong. If you tell them that you are proceeding to file a case against both of them, as the joint sellers, I bet you will get a speedy resolution. Why? Because they are in the wrong and you do have grounds for repair. Vic > This message is from: "Joe Glick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I have received quite a few responses from my earlier post, both > private and on the list. Not from prospective buyers but from > concerned people. I have received some very good advice and was > asked some very valid questions. At this time I would like to > explain my situation and hopefully answer some of the questions. I > also want to thank everyone who replied.
