RE: Ornamental Mills Around the World

2012-06-02 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Mapped my place

 

Thanks

Greg

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 9:07 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World

 

There's still two current members that I know in Europe that have not placed
a marker.  After that, they will be news to me.  I also know a couple in
Texas that are being shy. 

 

-Tim

 

- Original Message - 

From: Craig Turner   

To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Cc: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com 

Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 4:49 AM

Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World

 

Nice touch to see where we all live. More from UK/Ireland than I thought -
nice. 

 

Craig


On Friday, June 1, 2012 3:41:21 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote: 

Hello All,

 

I value the privacy of the members in this group more than most people
appreciate.  On the other hand, I like to know where other owners are
located.  There's nothing in Google Groups that can be used to show our
individual locations so I found a free service that will make it possible.
For now, it's a hidden feature on ornamentalmills.com.  

 

It's a world map that allows you to place a marker. One of the goals in
offering this feature is to help bring members closer together.   It just
might be a conversation starter.  Any information that you enter is
voluntary.   The map is currently available to the public so please be
careful about any private information that you are posting.  

 

The Link to the Map:

http://ornamentalmills.com/map/usermap.html

 

Direction for placing your marker:

http://ornamentalmills.com/map/map_directions.html

 

If I start getting spammed with this feature I'll either take steps to
moderate the input or depending on the level of activity I might discontinue
it at any time.  My hopes is we can get more than 40 members to place a
marker on the map.   Come on Lurkers, prove to me that people are reading
this group still!

 

Let me know what you think of this new feature.  

 

-Tim

 

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RE: sample sketchup drawings

2011-08-21 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
I do things with precision in sketchup, especially flat work.

 

Thanks

Greg

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Randy Rhine
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 12:43 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings

 

Just responded to the Tuesday thing.

Give Sketchup a chance. i hated it for a while...still have my frustrations.
But it's worth learning. You can be precise with it.

rr



Tim Krause wrote: 

It's a real pain in the ass to draw anything with precision in sketchup.  I
spent a bunch of time yesterday playing around with it and looking at
tutorials.  I would think if the customer really needs a 3d mock up to sell
the job, it's a very questionable customer in the first place.  

 

What did you think about meeting up tuesday?

 

-Tim

 

- Original Message - 

From: Randy Rhine <mailto:rrrh...@comcast.net>  

To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 9:26 AM

Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings

 

The free version of Sketchup cannot import/export  DXF/DWG files.   The
"Pro" version ($$$) can. There may be third party plug-ins that do it as
well. 

rr



Tim Krause wrote: 

I like the design of the 12 start spiral column.  I could see a small
potpourri box or candle holder made with that design and some serious
trickery.
 
I just downloaded SU and will have to play with it.  Can it import dxf or
dwg drawings?
 
-Tim
 
 
 
- Original Message - 
From: "Groovy Wood LLC"  <mailto:groovyw...@gmail.com>

To:  <mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 12:18 PM
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
 
 
  

The first one is done the same as how I described earlier
 
The second drawing used the follow me tool, some issues Cannot determine


the
  

pitch or the bit shape exactly so duplicating it on the legacy is not
possible. It is a circle done on a spiral path. Looks cool but without


exact
  

math for the line hard for me to make but I am sure someone else has


thought
  

of a way.
 
Thanks
Greg Knudtson
Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com
302.894.3616
 
 
-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Moshofsky
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:16 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
 
As I understand it Sketchup has a method where you can follow a line with


a
  

shape. I believe it is called the "FOLLOW ME" tool.
The problem then would be to create the curved path the cutter would take
around the pineapple, follow it with the cutter shape, then rotate the
result around the center of rotation of the pineapple to create the whole
thing.
 
-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Groovy Wood
LLC
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:36 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
 
So you're talking a left and right twist on the some project, I have not
done that. I have only done straight cylinders with right or left twist.
 
My process was draw a profile of the bit you are going to use. Draw a


circle
  

the diameter you want your project, move bit profile on edge and locate
where you want it, hit the move in circle, click on center, hit ctrl key,
move degrees you want ( should be multiple that goes into 360 even) like


30
  

then hit 12x enter,
 
Extend object up .25" click on top surface only, again use circle move and
rotate 15 degrees and that should give you the twist, save as component


and
  

step and repeat to length.
 
Hope makes sense, pretty involved.
 
Reads should be done same way except use the use push/pull for straight if
you have on circle you have drawn,
 
Note try to do 2d plane and push pull before going into 3d.
 
 
 
Thanks
Greg
 
 
-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:20 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings
 
Ok how did you do it? Im pretty sure i could do it for objects of


consistent
  

geometry such as cylinders. I was trying to model a pineapple twist on a
sphere. The other one I was trying was a country style table leg with


reeds
  

(which you would cut from the side using the mill. I was trying to model


the
  

leg then sketch the profile of the Reed on one end. Then with the


wireframe
  

on, I tried to draw a line following the contour of the leg. Then use the
follow me tool. I think I'm doing something wrong because I can't get it


to
  

subtract the Reed.
 
As far as drawi

RE: sample sketchup drawings

2011-08-20 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Yes I have some what are you looking for?

Thanks
Greg


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 7:07 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings

Appears you cannot manipulate the imported object.  I guess I need to figure
out how to draw the bits in SU.  Do you have any saved as components?

-Tim

- Original Message - 
From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 2:33 PM
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings


> Import yes, but I have not done it so I do not know how good it is, export
> can only be done with the pro version, not the free one.
>
> Thanks
> Greg
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 3:27 PM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings
>
> I like the design of the 12 start spiral column.  I could see a small
> potpourri box or candle holder made with that design and some serious
> trickery.
>
> I just downloaded SU and will have to play with it.  Can it import dxf or
> dwg drawings?
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 12:18 PM
> Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
>
>
> > The first one is done the same as how I described earlier
> >
> > The second drawing used the follow me tool, some issues Cannot determine
> the
> > pitch or the bit shape exactly so duplicating it on the legacy is not
> > possible. It is a circle done on a spiral path. Looks cool but without
> exact
> > math for the line hard for me to make but I am sure someone else has
> thought
> > of a way.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Greg Knudtson
> > Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com
> > 302.894.3616
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Gary
> > Moshofsky
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:16 PM
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
> >
> > As I understand it Sketchup has a method where you can follow a line
with
> a
> > shape. I believe it is called the "FOLLOW ME" tool.
> > The problem then would be to create the curved path the cutter would
take
> > around the pineapple, follow it with the cutter shape, then rotate the
> > result around the center of rotation of the pineapple to create the
whole
> > thing.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Groovy
Wood
> > LLC
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:36 AM
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
> >
> > So you're talking a left and right twist on the some project, I have not
> > done that. I have only done straight cylinders with right or left twist.
> >
> > My process was draw a profile of the bit you are going to use. Draw a
> circle
> > the diameter you want your project, move bit profile on edge and locate
> > where you want it, hit the move in circle, click on center, hit ctrl
key,
> > move degrees you want ( should be multiple that goes into 360 even) like
> 30
> > then hit 12x enter,
> >
> > Extend object up .25" click on top surface only, again use circle move
and
> > rotate 15 degrees and that should give you the twist, save as component
> and
> > step and repeat to length.
> >
> > Hope makes sense, pretty involved.
> >
> > Reads should be done same way except use the use push/pull for straight
if
> > you have on circle you have drawn,
> >
> > Note try to do 2d plane and push pull before going into 3d.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > Greg
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:20 AM
> > To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
> > Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings
> >
> > Ok how did you do it? Im pretty sure i could do it for objects of
> consistent
> > geometry such as cylinders. I was trying to model a pineapple twist on a
> > sphere. The other one I

RE: sample sketchup drawings

2011-08-20 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Import yes, but I have not done it so I do not know how good it is, export
can only be done with the pro version, not the free one.

Thanks
Greg

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 3:27 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings

I like the design of the 12 start spiral column.  I could see a small
potpourri box or candle holder made with that design and some serious
trickery.

I just downloaded SU and will have to play with it.  Can it import dxf or
dwg drawings?

-Tim



- Original Message - 
From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 12:18 PM
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings


> The first one is done the same as how I described earlier
>
> The second drawing used the follow me tool, some issues Cannot determine
the
> pitch or the bit shape exactly so duplicating it on the legacy is not
> possible. It is a circle done on a spiral path. Looks cool but without
exact
> math for the line hard for me to make but I am sure someone else has
thought
> of a way.
>
> Thanks
> Greg Knudtson
> Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com
> 302.894.3616
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Gary
> Moshofsky
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:16 PM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
>
> As I understand it Sketchup has a method where you can follow a line with
a
> shape. I believe it is called the "FOLLOW ME" tool.
> The problem then would be to create the curved path the cutter would take
> around the pineapple, follow it with the cutter shape, then rotate the
> result around the center of rotation of the pineapple to create the whole
> thing.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Groovy Wood
> LLC
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:36 AM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings
>
> So you're talking a left and right twist on the some project, I have not
> done that. I have only done straight cylinders with right or left twist.
>
> My process was draw a profile of the bit you are going to use. Draw a
circle
> the diameter you want your project, move bit profile on edge and locate
> where you want it, hit the move in circle, click on center, hit ctrl key,
> move degrees you want ( should be multiple that goes into 360 even) like
30
> then hit 12x enter,
>
> Extend object up .25" click on top surface only, again use circle move and
> rotate 15 degrees and that should give you the twist, save as component
and
> step and repeat to length.
>
> Hope makes sense, pretty involved.
>
> Reads should be done same way except use the use push/pull for straight if
> you have on circle you have drawn,
>
> Note try to do 2d plane and push pull before going into 3d.
>
>
>
> Thanks
> Greg
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:20 AM
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
> Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings
>
> Ok how did you do it? Im pretty sure i could do it for objects of
consistent
> geometry such as cylinders. I was trying to model a pineapple twist on a
> sphere. The other one I was trying was a country style table leg with
reeds
> (which you would cut from the side using the mill. I was trying to model
the
> leg then sketch the profile of the Reed on one end. Then with the
wireframe
> on, I tried to draw a line following the contour of the leg. Then use the
> follow me tool. I think I'm doing something wrong because I can't get it
to
> subtract the Reed.
>
> As far as drawing the pineapple twist on a sphereI have no idea where
to
> start there.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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>
> --
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RE: sample sketchup drawings

2011-08-16 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
If anyone does this please share the picture and how it was done.

Thanks
Greg 


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Moshofsky
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:16 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings

As I understand it Sketchup has a method where you can follow a line with a
shape. I believe it is called the "FOLLOW ME" tool. 
The problem then would be to create the curved path the cutter would take
around the pineapple, follow it with the cutter shape, then rotate the
result around the center of rotation of the pineapple to create the whole
thing. 

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Groovy Wood
LLC
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:36 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: sample sketchup drawings

So you're talking a left and right twist on the some project, I have not
done that. I have only done straight cylinders with right or left twist.

My process was draw a profile of the bit you are going to use. Draw a circle
the diameter you want your project, move bit profile on edge and locate
where you want it, hit the move in circle, click on center, hit ctrl key,
move degrees you want ( should be multiple that goes into 360 even) like 30
then hit 12x enter, 

Extend object up .25" click on top surface only, again use circle move and
rotate 15 degrees and that should give you the twist, save as component and
step and repeat to length.

Hope makes sense, pretty involved.

Reads should be done same way except use the use push/pull for straight if
you have on circle you have drawn, 

Note try to do 2d plane and push pull before going into 3d.



Thanks
Greg


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:20 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings

Ok how did you do it? Im pretty sure i could do it for objects of consistent
geometry such as cylinders. I was trying to model a pineapple twist on a
sphere. The other one I was trying was a country style table leg with reeds
(which you would cut from the side using the mill. I was trying to model the
leg then sketch the profile of the Reed on one end. Then with the wireframe
on, I tried to draw a line following the contour of the leg. Then use the
follow me tool. I think I'm doing something wrong because I can't get it to
subtract the Reed.

As far as drawing the pineapple twist on a sphereI have no idea where to
start there.

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RE: sample sketchup drawings

2011-08-16 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
So you're talking a left and right twist on the some project, I have not
done that. I have only done straight cylinders with right or left twist.

My process was draw a profile of the bit you are going to use. Draw a circle
the diameter you want your project, move bit profile on edge and locate
where you want it, hit the move in circle, click on center, hit ctrl key,
move degrees you want ( should be multiple that goes into 360 even) like 30
then hit 12x enter, 

Extend object up .25" click on top surface only, again use circle move and
rotate 15 degrees and that should give you the twist, save as component and
step and repeat to length.

Hope makes sense, pretty involved.

Reads should be done same way except use the use push/pull for straight if
you have on circle you have drawn, 

Note try to do 2d plane and push pull before going into 3d.



Thanks
Greg


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:20 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: sample sketchup drawings

Ok how did you do it? Im pretty sure i could do it for objects of
consistent geometry such as cylinders. I was trying to model a
pineapple twist on a sphere. The other one I was trying was a country
style table leg with reeds (which you would cut from the side using
the mill. I was trying to model the leg then sketch the profile of the
Reed on one end. Then with the wireframe on, I tried to draw a line
following the contour of the leg. Then use the follow me tool. I think
I'm doing something wrong because I can't get it to subtract the Reed.

As far as drawing the pineapple twist on a sphereI have no idea
where to start there.

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RE: spirals in sketchup

2011-08-16 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Yes I have done several in sketchup.

Thanks
Greg

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 9:42 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: spirals in sketchup

This is somewhat legacy related;

I'm mostly a hobbyist but on occasions, I find some people who are
willing to pay me for something (its always gratifying to know people
are still willingto pay for craftsmanship). However, its hard to get a
visual representation of of the project to show the client before hand
which makes it hard to sell anything if your client can't visualize
what he/she is going to pay for. Sorry for the rambling, I'll get to
the point.

I downloaded Google sketchup (its free) to make 3D representations of
the projects prior to cutting anything. Does anyone use sketchup and
know how to model spirals, flutes, reeds, etc?

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RE: Monthly Challenge

2011-07-05 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Maybe quarterly would be better unless they are smaller projects/

 

Thanks

Greg 

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 9:30 PM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Monthly Challenge

 

Hello All, 

 

I'm really curious if we created a monthly challenge if anyone would
participate.   I could see a challenge where you are asked to create a
project like a clock and post pictures by the end of each month.  There's
really no winner or loser, but more of a chance to get more than one person
working on the same thing.  That way sharing the frustrations or tricks
needed to make the project could help others learn and inspire other to dust
off the idle machines and try something new.  Maybe it could go as far as
making plans and demonstrating a project and then the members can show us
their own versions of the project.  Are we as a group too clever to get
involved in games like this?  I know he have a lot of beginners lurking and
this might be a way to get them out in the open.

 

-Tim

 

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RE: All New Members

2011-07-04 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
The first one gave me your photos as an attachment in my email. I get each
individual email sent to my box, I have not checked the actual site.

 

Thanks

Greg Knudtson

Http://  Groovy Wood LLC.com

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dustin Yoder
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 8:39 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: All New Members

 

4th try at placing photos. Sorry for cluttering the group if it doesn't
work. 

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RE: thin stock support

2011-06-30 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Did you buy them or did they come with you machine? I don't have any that
look like that and defiantly no extras that look like it.

Thanks
Greg

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RE: Chuck Adapter

2011-06-28 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Planning on trying McMaster Carr.

 

Thanks

Greg

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of curt george
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 4:36 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Chuck Adapter

 

Hello everyone.

Greg. I just went to my favorite metal supply house and bought 12" (14"
realy it was already cut.) for $10.60

Its sold as all thread rod, 1"by 8 threads per inch. Its the same as all my
adaptors that I use For my lathe as well as Legacy.

 I am planning to cut it down and turn one end to fit into a bearing, for a
jig Im planning to make.

Just call around Im sure that you will be able to find it in your area if
you take a good look,its not expensive or hard to find once you know where
to look. ;-)

Good luck on your project.

I cant wait to see how it turns out.

 

Have a great day.

 

C.A.G.

 

 

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RE: Look Ye Here!

2011-05-05 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
I believe you have a 1000EX or 1500 which is the same as the 1000 just
longer (80")

Thanks
Greg 

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Moshofsky
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2011 2:19 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Look Ye Here!

My older machine is clearly marked Legacy 1000 but the side rail extrusions
are 80" long. 
Was the length of the machine custom by order? I bought mine used without
much history to it. 

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of begatbrown
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2011 10:34 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: Look Ye Here!

Hello All,

As one who owns both a 900 and an Arty 58", this development is something
worth watching.  I'm relatively new to both, and I would not trade my 900
for an Arty alone, and would not own a cnc unless I wanted to make some
money.

Unless the middle rails are realigned and the brackets lowered, the max.
turn size on the Shadow would be six inches.  The way it's made, it is
easier to fix a tailstock on the wall and maker a longer column on the Arty
than the manual machines. (For you alter-the-machine
fellas!) If they move the rails, the column diameter could improve
dramatically.  But then again, that would make it harder to upgrade to the
cnc.  So the decision that they make will be interesting.

Presumably, the Shadow would come with rack-and-pinion, especially if it's
going to be an easy upgrade.  This would mean that the leadscrew is history
as well as the router table as we know it.

I like the 900, including the rotary table that I originally thought I'd
sell.

As for the cost of the CNC.  Folks, the 179 tax break Legacy talks about is
real.  And the use of your shop for business purposes creates another write
off for the home.  And shops do not have to be finished to get the tax write
off. (Of course, this is USA tax stuff thanks to current tax laws.)  Sell a
few posts, and a number of people here do seem to sell parts and finished
stuff, and you will have a cnc for less than the price of the old 1800.  Do
fairly well, and the machine will pay for itself quickly enough.

By the way, I use my 900 to make almost all my blanks round.  It moves
faster than the cnc, which has the edge for accuracy in turning.  (Of
course, you seasoned woodworkers--the John Henry's of sawdust--can probably
out do the cnc in terms of quality and speed!)  For me, the combo is working
out well.  I don't mean to quit my day job, but it's nice to make side money
in an economy in which pay raises don't exist and to keep more of what I
make on my day job through tax write offs.

If I had to have one machine, it would be the 1200 with a motor and it's
tailstock on the garage wall  It would be more limited in designing than
a CNC, but it could turn 11 inch columns something that you'd have to buy an
Artisan to do.

By the way, where did you guys see the ad for the Shadow?
Begat




On May 5, 3:31 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> I dough it Jeff.
> Since you own a 1200 what length is it? 56" sounds a little short to me?
> My 1000 ex was 48" and I extended it to 56" but? isn't the 1200, 72" long?
> I still cant wait to see how that they handles the gearing.
> And they said the frame was wider. I wonder what dia. this unit will turn?
> As I said earlier, this is a Neat concept. there are a lot of bonus's 
> here, but so far...
> This is to new, and I would like to see more about it before I 
> completely jump on this band wagon.
> Neat but un-proven. :-)
> (Sorta sounds like "Trust but Verify" the former Gov. policy that the 
> US used when dealing with other countries, when I was still in the 
> military. )
>
> Have a great day.
> Jeff call Legacy and find out for sure if they are willing to trade. 
> :-) Trust but Verify!
>
> C.A.G.
> .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Love to turn in Oregon" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 11:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Look Ye Here!
>
> I wonder of legacy would consider a trade straight across. My 1200 is 
> in great shape.
>
> Jeff
>
> On May 4, 4:59 pm, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> > yes it will be very interesting to see possibly a way of poorer 
> > people to get cnc first the manual machine then maybe later upgrade 
> > to the computer part still beyond me im afraid the shipping would be 
> > staggering for overseas on a pre assembled machine but for all you 
> > guys in the states who knows like I said I will be very interested 
> > to see it Bill
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: curt george
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2011 8:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: Look Ye Here!
>
> > Hello Bill!
> > we must have seen the same thing at pretty much the same time. I 
> > didnt see you new mill until after I posted pretty

RE: pen marking jig

2011-05-02 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
I tried that initially and that means I need to understand the positioning
better. If I do that I cannot get picture c to work it spreads it out more.

Thanks
Greg Knudtson
Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 9:27 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: pen marking jig

Umm, isn't this just driving the rotary table with the x axis lead screw
connected?   There was a discussion back in June and July on the resulting
curves and I thought I posted some patterns and explained how the offset
changes things.  There's a ;ot of unexplored potential if someone has the
time to play with this idea.  My advice is take a lot of notes so you can
repeat the patterns in the future.

If your cranking back and forth you can save time by using a split collar to
mark your starting point on the leadscrew and marking the top of the
leadscrew so you can engage the nut and get the same results.  Then you can
open the split nut and index the table to next starting point, lock the
split nut and go again.  If you understand this your doing good.

-Tim



- Original Message - 
From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: pen marking jig


> That's the plan your following exactly what I am trying do.
>
> Thanks
> Greg Knudtson
> Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Bulkeley
> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 5:44 PM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: pen marking jig
>
> very interesting now try the same with the standard gears and the 2X gears
> Bill
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 2:59 AM
> Subject: RE: pen marking jig
>
>
> > Diagrams promised using the pen jig to draw on rotary table.
> >
> > All are draw from 18.5" to 27" on X axis with y set at close to 0"
> >
> > 1) Gear C with .25 gear reduction
> > 2) Gear A with .25 gear reduction
> > 3) Gear A with .25 gear reduction, starting at the headstock gear 0 deg,
> > 120
> > degree and 240 degree each time router was moved with crank to back to
> > start
> > before disengaging gear and moving to new degree rotation.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Greg
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of curt
george
> > Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2011 8:19 PM
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: Re: pen marking jig
> >
> > OK, I know that Im a day late and a dollar short on this topic.
> > What is this Pen marking jig for???
> > C.A.G.
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 7:10 PM
> > Subject: pen marking jig
> >
> >
> >> Not the best pictures or design but it worked, Have a better idea to
try
> >> now. (a duh moment) The small clamp was to add pressure for writing or
I
> >> can
> >> push on the pen to make it write better. I put a F o-ring on the Bic
pen
> >> to
> >> keep it from scooting up. Cost was $0 used scrap and stuff.
> >>
> >> Greg
> >>
> >> -- 
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Groups
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> >>
> >>
> >
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RE: pen marking jig

2011-05-02 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
That's the plan your following exactly what I am trying do.

Thanks
Greg Knudtson
Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bulkeley
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 5:44 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: pen marking jig

very interesting now try the same with the standard gears and the 2X gears
Bill
- Original Message - 
From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 2:59 AM
Subject: RE: pen marking jig


> Diagrams promised using the pen jig to draw on rotary table.
>
> All are draw from 18.5" to 27" on X axis with y set at close to 0"
>
> 1) Gear C with .25 gear reduction
> 2) Gear A with .25 gear reduction
> 3) Gear A with .25 gear reduction, starting at the headstock gear 0 deg, 
> 120
> degree and 240 degree each time router was moved with crank to back to 
> start
> before disengaging gear and moving to new degree rotation.
>
> Thanks
> Greg
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of curt george
> Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2011 8:19 PM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: pen marking jig
>
> OK, I know that Im a day late and a dollar short on this topic.
> What is this Pen marking jig for???
> C.A.G.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 7:10 PM
> Subject: pen marking jig
>
>
>> Not the best pictures or design but it worked, Have a better idea to try
>> now. (a duh moment) The small clamp was to add pressure for writing or I
>> can
>> push on the pen to make it write better. I put a F o-ring on the Bic pen
>> to
>> keep it from scooting up. Cost was $0 used scrap and stuff.
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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>>
>>
>
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RE: pen marking jig

2011-04-30 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
It use with the rotary table I guess you could use it on turning stock also
but it allows me draw the path of the router bit before I cut so I can see
if my set up is what I want. I will post a few scans next week to show.

Thanks
Greg 

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of curt george
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2011 8:19 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: pen marking jig

OK, I know that Im a day late and a dollar short on this topic.
What is this Pen marking jig for???
C.A.G.
- Original Message - 
From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 7:10 PM
Subject: pen marking jig


> Not the best pictures or design but it worked, Have a better idea to try
> now. (a duh moment) The small clamp was to add pressure for writing or I 
> can
> push on the pen to make it write better. I put a F o-ring on the Bic pen 
> to
> keep it from scooting up. Cost was $0 used scrap and stuff.
>
> Greg
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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>
> 

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RE: Tim's quick change reverse gearing

2011-04-28 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Good point, I will make myself more aware of that issue but I do not have a
motor and I have not seen it as an issue but it is something I should be
aware of.

I just had a lot of stuff piling up to post so I am trying to get it done.
Still have one more to post of my pen marking jig for the rotary table.

Thanks
Greg 

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of curt george
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 5:05 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Tim's quick change reverse gearing

Hello Guys!
Wow there is a lot of message traffic today, Doesn't anyone out there work? 
:-) I feel like Im a late comer here.
Lots of nice pictures, Thanks too both of you (groovywood & Bill Bulkeley) 
for all the great topics today.
I would like to key in on the driving the gears in the up ward position.
I've tried it, and quite honestly, I find the gears get in my way. I like to

work from the end of my machine, and the gears up, block not only my view 
but Its also pretty scary being eye to eye with a set of teeth that could 
bite you if you are not paying attention to what is going on at the moment.
Now having said that, the up-ward position dose seem to help set the teeth 
of the gears while in motion. Perhaps I should make a guard for the gears 
and try using then that way for a while? but with out a guard on them, its 
something that Im just not willing to chance.
That's just my two cents.
"O" by the way I too own one of the QC gear changers made by Tim. (If I have

to admit it, his unit looks 100% better than the one I made,having the steel

laser cut realy makes the difference! And I wouldn't trade this one for the 
world,Its one of my best toys that I use often on the Legacy.)
talk to you all latter.
C.A.G.
- Original Message - 
From: "gk777" 
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: Tim's quick change reverse gearing


Yes i like them in the up position in case something is not tight i
might be able to get through a cut before it slips and not ruin my
piece. It also seems to help me make sure all is engaged before i
start by feeling the gears and trying to move them.

 Key word is might if something not tight it will usually skip a tooth
or 2 then it becomes a variable spiral spaced item which i have done a
few of.

On Apr 28, 12:11 pm, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> looks good I have one of those too much easier for direction change.I see
> you run your gears in the up position too like me. would you take a pic of
> your pitch gear storage you have near the end of the leadscrew that looks
> interesting too
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Groovy Wood LLC" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:08 PM
> Subject: Tim's quick change reverse gearing
>
> > A couple of pictures of Tim's part attached to my machine.
>
> > Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
> > attachments:
>
> > Legacy 002
> > Legacy 003
>
> > Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent
> > sending or receiving certain types of file attachments. Check your 
> > e-mail
> > security settings to determine how attachments are handled.
>
> > --
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RE: storage for parts on legacy

2011-04-28 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Thanks for the information I have not had to do 14" or larger project on it
since I installed but at least now I know I will need to remove one or both
if I need to do one that large. (which I will)

Thanks
Greg Knudtson
Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of begatbrown
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:39 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: storage for parts on legacy

Good idea, but it wouldn't work for me because I use the circle
cutting center. I have been considering putting drawers or baskets
beneath the stand I built.

Begat

On Apr 28, 8:17 am, Groovy Wood LLC  wrote:
>  I was having trouble with where to put all the legacy things, I use peg
> board for other projects and had some left over so I put some Styrofoam
> caulk gap fill in the bottom groove of the rail and then placed the peg
> board in and it working so far, it also give me an added security if
> something flies off while cutting it will hopefully hit the peg board.  
>
>  Legacy 008.jpg
> 160KViewDownload
>
>  Legacy 009.jpg
> 200KViewDownload

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RE: New Spur Drive

2011-04-23 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Can you remind me with pictures of Tim's items?

Thanks
|Greg
://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

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RE: advice wanted

2011-04-17 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
A couple of pieces of information needed

 

Thickness of wood, if wood is thinner you will not be able to use any larger
bits for rope molding, for large columns usually the large rope bit is
better (this is the one legacy sells 2 bits to make one start) and with the
largest pitch you can since they are 10' tall. (opinion expressed to me
anyhow) If you have those 2 then a 3 start column may look good, look like
big ship ropes going up.

 

What rope bits do you have? Again for larger items larger bits usually look
better.

 

Greg

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Art Ransom
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 5:33 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: advice wanted

 

I have an order for 3 12" by 10' rope columns.   They will be from 12" by
12" western red cedar and used in an exterior gazebo and customer said
"rustic".  looking for advice on number of starts,  width and pitch.

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Ahmed's new creations

2011-04-06 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Been away for a few days looks like the blog is not working today.

 

Thanks

Greg 

 

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RE: Rope column

2011-03-23 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Someone will need to verify my math but I think the equation is:
(Number of starts * Bit Diameter)/ 3.14159 = diameter of column

8 starts you need a column 7.6394" in diameter for them to be real darn
close. Again someone needs to verify. Hope I am not leading you wrong.

You will get a number with lots of decimals and you have to determine if the
overlap or under lap is acceptable for your look

Greg


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mike
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 11:36 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Rope column

Does anybody know how to figure out the diamiater of a column and
number of starts to make a 8-10inch column with a 3in rope bit it will
have a 7 1/2 pitch.
I need to make this 8ft column and they want a 3" rope .I can't figure
out the dia. to make the column. Is there a formula to figure this?
Thanks
Mike

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RE: Items for discussion and how to

2011-03-10 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
What do you mean short pen insert, is this something you can get at office
depot?

 

How does your pen float? I am missing something.

 

Thanks

Greg Knudtson

Http://  Groovy Wood LLC.com

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 9:31 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Items for discussion and how to

 

I made a pen for use in my router.  I started with a piece of 1/2" cold roll
steel and drilled a hole so I could use an short pen insert.  I threaded one
end so I could put a set screw in it.  Between the set screw and the pen
refill is a spring from a cheap pen.  On the opposite end is the cap I
robbed from the cheap pen.  I can tear it apart so you can see the details. 

 



 

I did everything on the fly.  I matched the center hole to the refill I
used, and the set screw was larger than the bore.  The plastic part is glued
in the end.  I would be happy to build you one if you don't have access to a
metal lathe. Contact me off list for details.  

 

I also know there is a company that sell pens designed for use in cnc
machines.
http://www.widgetworksunlimited.com/CNC_Plotter_Pen_Bit_Thin_Line_p/cnc-pltr
_pen_thin.htm

 

Basically a sharpie in a tube.  The spring loaded feature is really
important.  You need the pen to float or it's too easy to damage the tip of
the pen.  

 

Motor Assy with part numbers is good one.  My advice is look for a geared
motor on ebay and build the system around that.  I would recommended
something that is in the 120-200 rpm range and at least 1/10 hp.  If the
motor is too big, your going to have to get carried away with a mount.
Legacy's 4Z131A motor is light weight and a little slow for my tastes.  I
use a 4Z128A motor and I'm really happy with the power  (I have the motor
mount on file if you want me to cut one).  I also used a kb electronics
speed controller that is serious over kill, but it was cheap.  I like the
controllers that have the reverse relay built in, but the same feature can
be added with just a dpdt switch.  For limit switches I would recommend
sealed heavy duty limit switches.  They can be purchased from McMaster-Carr.
While your shopping you can pickup some lovejoy connectors for the 5/8"
shafts.  You'll need a project box to house the switches, potentiometer.  If
you plan to pay retail your looking at $500-600 for new parts.  If you need
more details, ask away. 

 

-Tim

 

 

 

- Original Message - 

From: "gk777" 

To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 

Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:21 AM

Subject: Items for discussion and how to

 

> I have three items that if some one has the time, (cough cough) to
> write up i would find helpful.
> 
> The first is something I have immediate need of, at one point i
> remember, i think, tracy putting a board next to the rail for running
> a bit into to set the hieght to do repetitve work, was this mounted on
> the side, top or bottom any suggestions and how is it mounted, if on
> side i would think it would move slightly and be off by .01 or more
> each time.
> 
> The second is the rotory table, a how to make a device to mount inside
> the router collet to draw on paper to see what the design path is
> before routing
> 
> The third and last is how to mount a motor to your machine with
> material list, etc.
> 
> Thanks in advance, if any one accepts the mission, this will self
> destruct in  10 secondsstart the music.
> 
> Greg
> 
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<>

RE: Items for discussion and how to

2011-03-09 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Thanks for the information you told me were to find it and I found it in my
manual so no need to copy it.

Thanks
Greg 

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of cole andrews
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 10:53 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Items for discussion and how to

That first thing ( storyboard) is mounted to the lower rails so it is
always in relationship to the stock being milled. there is a small
write in my instructions that came with my 900. I lent out my book
when I get it back ,i will scan it and post it.looks pretty simple
once you see the picture . It is also mounted on the inside of the
rail so you just run the bit into it and you are done.. think of it as
an template follower on the inside.

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 10:21 AM, gk777  wrote:
> I have three items that if some one has the time, (cough cough) to
> write up i would find helpful.
>
> The first is something I have immediate need of, at one point i
> remember, i think, tracy putting a board next to the rail for running
> a bit into to set the hieght to do repetitve work, was this mounted on
> the side, top or bottom any suggestions and how is it mounted, if on
> side i would think it would move slightly and be off by .01 or more
> each time.
>
> The second is the rotory table, a how to make a device to mount inside
> the router collet to draw on paper to see what the design path is
> before routing
>
> The third and last is how to mount a motor to your machine with
> material list, etc.
>
> Thanks in advance, if any one accepts the mission, this will self
> destruct in  10 secondsstart the music.
>
> Greg
>
> --
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>
>

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RE: linear drive

2011-02-03 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Is ther4e a write up on how to do this, what parts, etc.? something I would
like to do.

Thanks
Greg Knudtson
Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
bulke...@mmnet.com.au
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 8:52 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: linear drive

looks good what is the size and rpm of the motor\
Bill

Quoting curt george :

> BOB
> Im in a hurry so I need to make this quick, You realy need a 90volt  
> DC motor small on will not work well for long.
>
> here are some of the motors set ups that I've done on my machine.
> Good luck!
> The motor is the only way to go, If you ask me.
> C.A.G.
> - Original Message - From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 1:29 AM
> Subject: linear drive
>
>
>> this might not be a popular idea but i thought I'd give it a try been
>> thinking about it, has any one considered going low tech with a linear
>> drive system a dc motor like a wiper or power window motor both have
>> gear reduction you could use the same control switch hooked to a foot
>> pedal have no limit switches and have the motor coupled to the lead
>> screw using a sprag or roller clutch so that when you got close to the
>> end you would turn it off and finish by hand the down side would be
>> you would have to loosen the split not to back it up. using the clutch
>> setup it would remove easily for times that you would not want it i
>> have been making balusters for a while now and my shoulders are
>> telling me that i should look for another way bob
>>
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RE: Legacy 1200 for Sale in Mass.

2011-01-30 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
Oops guess I should hit reply instead of send

FYI, He said this was sold, sent him email yesterday to ask questions.

Thanks
Greg Knudtson
Http://Groovy Wood LLC.com

-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of begatbrown
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2011 12:24 PM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Legacy 1200 for Sale in Mass.

For anyone who might be interested, earlier this month there was a
listing on the American Woodworkers Association forum for a 1200 that
has a motor, among other things.
http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=8291

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Legacy

2011-01-30 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
FYI, Sent him email he said it was sold.

 

Thanks

Greg Knudtson

Http://  Groovy Wood LLC.com

 

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RE: Y-Axis Digital Scale

2011-01-05 Thread Groovy Wood LLC 
I hope I don't have one of the earliest made, I bought it in nova of 2009
with my 1200, they forgot to ship it originally and my z axis was damaged in
shipment and I had to send it back. Took about 2 months to straighten out.

Does your DRO (the new one not my picture) have the ability to switch form
mm to In and what is the readout .01 or .001 or more?

Thanks
Greg 


-Original Message-
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Grant Lasson
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 2:39 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Y-Axis Digital Scale

Greg,

That's exactly the digital readout (DRO) I have for my Woodrat. It works but
can't remember where it was when you turn it off. It also doesn't have an
incremental mode. Do yourself a favor and go buy this one: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/0-6-Y-AXIS-VERTICAL-DIGITAL-SCALE-Digital-Readouts-DRO-/
140490645449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b5e51fc9

You must have one of the very earliest z-axes made. Legacy shipped mine
without a DRO (they were unhappy with the returns they were getting from the
original DRO--the one you have). When I finally called and said it was
taking too long (after a couple of months) they shipped me one exactly like
the eBay auction I listed above. I've been happy with it.

Grant




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