Joe,
You're not much older than I. I'm 51. On the idea of planning ahead as
mentioned earlier, I'm not sure I want to learn to use friction at this
point either. Who knows how long my hearing may last. So, some type of
indexing would be preferred, whether indexed bar ends or brifters.
Thanks.
Yep, you're due. With a new chain acting up, it's wear on the rings. If
you change rings today, you will notice an immediate reduction in the
amount of noise the drivetrain makes. Rings wear so gradually that things
get pretty rattly, even with a new chain.
dougp
On Thursday, May 26, 2016
Check Greg Reiche's post in this iBob thread.
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/internet-bob/EJwZY9TJoS0
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So much great advice!
Go for the Homer, set it with 9 or 10 speed, double or triple, downtube
shifters (indexed) and ride it.
You'll be able to easily fine tune your cockpit without messing with your
drivetrain every time. When you settle on the cockpit, you'll know if you
want to keep the downtu
Jean recommends 35-40 lbs for the torque on his René Herse cranks. Not sure
what torque wrench to use...
On Thursday, May 26, 2016, Joe Bernard wrote:
> Check Greg Reiche's post in this iBob thread.
>
> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/internet-bob/EJwZY9TJoS0
>
> --
> You received this
> You'll be able to easily fine tune your cockpit without messing with your
drivetrain every time. When you settle on the cockpit, you'll know if you
want to keep the downtube shifters or switch to brifters it barends.
I like your reasoning, but then I had to go research it a bit and happened
to r
Upon rotating my crank arms by hand slowly and gently backwards I hear a
squeak sound like the low squak sound of rubbing a balloon until I increase
the speed, then it goes away.
They spin fine, no crunchy sounds. no play.
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