Hi
Even *with* all the fancy stuff in my Fluke thermometers … they still are only
rated for
a bit worse than 0.1 C. When I send them in for calibration, the thermometer
generally
comes back “calibrated fine”. The thermocouple I send in with them often comes
back
with a note about “you need to
Hello to the group.
I somewhat suspect we have veered way off the track on the thread or the
thread changed and I missed it. Typical of me.
Useful comments on Tcouples and wires.
But with respect to the start of the subject of unmarked CS tubes easily a
5 or more degree range is fine. You can adju
If you want sub degree precision, you will need to make your connections to
dissimilar metals on an isothermal boundary, a terminal block is better
than clips in free air.
On Fri, Nov 11, 2016 at 8:28 AM, Bob Camp wrote:
> Hi
>
> > On Nov 11, 2016, at 8:02 AM, jimlux wrote:
> >
> > On 11/10/16
Hi
> On Nov 11, 2016, at 8:02 AM, jimlux wrote:
>
> On 11/10/16 10:28 PM, Mike Millen wrote:
>> It would work as well if you used a pair of regular copper wires to
>> connect the meter to the thermocouple...
>>
>> The junctions created by all the new connections will cancel out.
>>
>
> as lon
On 11/10/16 10:28 PM, Mike Millen wrote:
It would work as well if you used a pair of regular copper wires to
connect the meter to the thermocouple...
The junctions created by all the new connections will cancel out.
as long as the temperatures are "exactly" the same,
(Seebeck coefficient vari
Quite true, of course.
I was only anticipating a quick-&-dirty temperature check... I should
have realised that q-&-d isn't in a Time-Nut's vocabulary. :-)
Mike
On 11/11/2016 06:39, Bill Hawkins wrote:
Well, they cancel if they're at the same temperature.
Bill Hawkins
-Original Messag
Well, they cancel if they're at the same temperature.
Bill Hawkins
-Original Message-
From: Mike Millen
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 12:28 AM
It would work as well if you used a pair of regular copper wires to
connect the meter to the thermocouple...
The junctions created by all the
It would work as well if you used a pair of regular copper wires to
connect the meter to the thermocouple...
The junctions created by all the new connections will cancel out.
Mike
On 10/11/2016 20:53, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
Skip,
The easiest way to determine the oven resistor values for an
In the whacky world of thermocouple color codes, the RED wire is usually the
negative! The other wire color is usually an indication of the thermocouple
type. YMMV... nothing is hard and fast about thermocouple colors.
---
> Connect the wires to your meter matching the color
Skip,
The easiest way to determine the oven resistor values for an unmarked
tube is to directly measure the oven temperature and select a resistance
to set it at the temperature you want.
Your tube is a STD tube so I'd set it at 90 degrees C.
Take a thermocouple meter and thermocouple and cut the
Skip
Not the expert but as you say the lower oven temp means higher em and visa
versa.
Funny you mention no writing in some document or ebay pixs I saw the same
thing a tube with no details. So that now makes 2 instances of no marking.
My non-professional 10 cents put a tube in you know. Set EM to
Hi
I would bet that they started as you have with a low oven setting and cranked
it up based on stability data. Once they got to that point, add a bit to have
enough
margin on the tube for it to last the rated life.
Since there are multiple quantum “modes” the beam can get into, there may hav
Hello Time-Nuts,
I have been checking out some cesium beam tubes lately and have run into an
interesting one. The tube is a standard HP 05061-6077 unit. There are two
labels on these tubes, one at the end that has a serial number, and the
other large label on the side that has the operating info
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