Re: [AMRadio] Solid State 575 mercury vapor RectifierReplacementsneeded

2009-10-05 Thread sbjohnston
Thanks to everyone for pointing out my brain lapse  -grin-  apparently 
I got confused in my calculations.

I wrote:

To calculate the value of resistor, use Ohms law R=E/I and P=IxE where 
R is in ohms,
E is the desired drop in volts, and I is the current in amps, and P in 
watts
For example, lets say your B+ is 50 volts too high. The load draws 
0.250 amps.
R= 50/.25 = 200 ohms.
P= 0.25x200=50 watts.

The last line should be

P= 0.25x50=12.5 watts.

When I came up with 50 watts, I thought to myself at the time, that 
seems like a big resistor, oh well... la-dee-dah... and I went about 
my business instead of checking my work.  I should trust the Force when 
feel an error coming on like that.


Steve WD8DAS

sbjohns...@aol.com
http://www.wd8das.net/
-
Radio is your best entertainment value.
-


-Original Message-
From: sbjohns...@aol.com
To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, Oct 4, 2009 3:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Solid State 575 mercury vapor 
RectifierReplacementsneeded









Jim W5JO wrote: 
 

What kind of resistor do you use in this type of rectifier build to 

simulate the voltage drop? 
 

I prefer cylindrical wirewound power resistors for this job (they seem
to be able to take more surge20current than the sandy rectangular ones
in case of a fault downstream). 
 

To calculate the value of resistor, use Ohms law R=E/I  and P=IxEwhere
R is in ohms, E is the desired drop in volts, and I is the current in
amps, and P in watts 
 

For example, lets say your B+ is 50 volts too high.  The load draws
0.250 amps. 

 R= 50/.25 = 200 ohms. 

 P= 0.25x200=50 watts. 
 

If the resistor ends up to be hard to find or expensive, it might be
easier to eliminate the reasons why the higher B+ is a problem.  And
more efficient too.   Upgrading some capacitors could be a reasonable
approach. 
 


Steve WD8DAS 
 

sbjohns...@aol.com 

http://www.wd8das.net/ 

- 

Radio is your best entertainment value. 

- 
 


-Original Message- 

From: Jim Wilhite w...@brightok.net 

To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
amradio@mailman.qth.net 

Sent: Sun, Oct 4, 2009 10:40 am 

Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Solid State 575 mercury vapor
RectifierReplacementsneeded 
 

 

 

 

 


Steve, 
 

What kind of resistor do you use in this type of rectifier build to 

simulate the voltage drop? 
 

Jim/W
5JO 
 


- Original Message - 
 

 I've made my own solid-state plug-in replacement rectifiers for a 

 variety of tube types.  I look up the tube specs and select 

 solid-state 

 diodes that stack up appropriately for current and forward and 
reverse 

 voltages. I usually end up using either 1N4007s or 1N5408s.  From 

 on-lline sources like Digikey or Mouser or All Electronics the diodes 

 are very inexpensive, ten cents to maybe 30 cents each. 

 

 I put the diodes on a rectangular piece of perfboard sized to fit 

 upright with its bottom end tucked within the sides of the base of 
the 

 defunct tube it is replacing.  A small L bracket holds it in place. 

 

 If you use diodes from the same run (which is easy if they are sold 

 on the paper tapes used by manufacturers today) then I find no 

 equalizing components are needed.  I add a few more diodes than the 

 calculated voltage required for an extra measure of safety and have 

 never had a failure, even in broadcast rigs on the air 24/7 with lots 

 of lightning and power bumps to deal with. 

 

 You can expect somewhat higher voltage from the new stack than the 

 original tube rectifier - if that is a problem for the rig, then add 
aC2

 series power resistor to simulate the internal voltage drop of the 

 earlier tube.  So far I've only needed to do that once when the new 

 higher B+ exceeded the rating of the by-pass caps in the other 

 sections 

 of the rig.  Otherwise the rigs seemed to thrive on the higher 

 voltage. 

 

 Steve WD8DAS 
 

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Re: [AMRadio] Solid State 575 mercury vaporRectifierReplacementsneeded

2009-10-05 Thread Jim Wilhite
Thanks for the info Steve, but not quite what I had in mind.  Is the 
resistor you use a wirewound (given the wattage, it must be)?  Something 
many people overlook is the voltage value of resistors.  Most carbon 
comp or film are good only up to ~500 volts and many of them only to 
350.  So in this particular application if one wants to build the 
rectifier circuit in a tube base, you should have room for a 15 watt 
resistor.

Then on top of that you will have the heat dissipated by the resistor to 
contend with which is probably more than the tube.  So the best 
situation would be to ignore the voltage drop and just put in modern 
diodes which have tighter specifications that don't require equalizing 
resistors and caps, then just work around the higher voltage in the 
circuit.  Most tubes will withstand a much higher plate voltage than 
their specifications.  Just off the top of my head I forget how the 
manufacturer determines maximum plate voltage, but tubes will withstand 
much more and operate fine.

So if you add the resistor you have the heat but lower voltage, without 
it you have higher voltage but not the heat.  So the easiest thing would 
be look at the capacitors in the circuit and see if you need to raise 
the voltage value of them and just leave the voltage dropping resistor 
out of the circuit.  And given the price of ceramic coated wirewound 
resistors, much cheaper too.

73

Jim/W5JO


- Original Message - 





 I wrote:

To calculate the value of resistor, use Ohms law R=E/I and P=IxE where
 R is in ohms,
 is the desired drop in volts, and I is the current in amps, and P in
 watts
 For example, lets say your B+ is 50 volts too high. The load draws
 0.250 amps.
 R= 50/.25 = 200 ohms.
 P= 0.25x50=12.5 watts.


 Steve WD8DAS

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[AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

2009-10-05 Thread Todd Carpenter
I am interested is a simple design hf amplifier for am cw on 160-80/75-40. 
These are the bands i operate on where the extra power would help. Fewer parts 
count the better. Ultimately lower cost the better. I have power supply parts 
and believe that i can generate around 2000 volts. I am slowly researching 
tubes and am leaning toward 2 or 4 tubes that can basically generate lots of 
watts at half to two thirds their ratings to prolong their life span. Perhaps 
tubes such as 811's, 810's, 833's, 4-400's. I am open to suggestions. I will 
need to build or acquire a heavy duty matching system as part of the amp. My 
goal is at least 300 Watts AM. I do not want to mess with systems that require 
cooling other than fans. I am not interested in modes for this amp other than 
am and cw. It will almost exclusively be used for am as i rarely use more than 
5 watts on cw any way. Simpler cheaper is better for me. I appreciate your 
suggestions. Todd  
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Re: [AMRadio] 575A's

2009-10-05 Thread D. Chester
Some of the older, built like a brick Scheiße-Haus kw broadcast 
transmitters, used 575A's to run 2500-3000 volts to 833A's.  But the later 
Lite versions of the 833A kilowatt rigs by the same manufacturers used 
872A's, which seemed to work OK up to 3 kv or so.  IIRC, the PIV of 575A's 
is 15 kv, while that of 872A's is 10kv.  10kv piv should be ok up to 3100 
volts DC using the full wave midtap circuit.  Apparently when the 
manufacturers cheapened their rigs, they decided the extra 50% safety margin 
was unnecessary, and with good 872A's, rectifier flash-over was never a 
problem if they were operated properly.  I believe 575's and 872's run at 
the same filament voltage, so they should be directy interchangeable.  Four 
872A's (or 4B32's) in a full wave bridge should be good for about 6 kv at 1 
amp.

I haven't tried to build my own solid state  rectifier stacks for many 
years, but back in the 60's and 70's I never could get them to work very 
long before having a firework display, no matter what equalising resistors 
and by-pass capacitors I used, or how many extra diodes I included in the 
string for safety margin.  So, with several bushels of mostly used 866A's, 
3B28's, 872A's and 4B32's on hand and plenty of filament transformers to run 
them, I have always stuck with hollow state rectifiers.  I use commercially 
built, direct replacement solid state 872A's and 866A's in my Gates BC1-T 
and after 5 years they have never given me any trouble.  I replaced the 5R4 
bias  rectifier with diodes purchased brand new (don't recall if I used two 
in series for each leg or just one in each leg) but I used the highest piv 
diodes I could find and so far, no problem with those, either.  I solid 
stated the bias rectifier to free up the octal  socket, to hold the 6AS7G I 
use as a DC regulator to isolate the protective bias tap that allows me to 
run the Gates on CW.

Don k4kyv
___

This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout.

http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak/
http://gigliwood.com/abcd/ 

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Re: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

2009-10-05 Thread John Coleman
Todd, 
Typically the linear amp will be the fewer parts and expense but with less
output than a full plate modulated class C rig per a given tube.  One of the
simplest tetrode linear systems is to put a 50 ohm load resistor right on
the grid of a big jug like a 4-1000 or a pair of 4-400s and use a zener to
bias the cathode circuit or fil return. It will also require a screen
supply.  The idea in all of this is that if the grid is loaded with a 50 ohm
dummy load, then it will not require tuning.  The small amount of input
capacitance will be negligible on the lower freq bands.  And it should not
require neutralization.  

OTH, If you are going linear with a triode or triode connected tetrodes then
you will want to go to a grounded grid linear.  No screen supply, no
neutralization, but does require more drive and/or may require drive tuning.

You may expect very poor plate efficiency in any linier amp that is tuned
properly to work with an AM input.  

If you're looking for old style circuits that are proven to have the most
output with the least plate dissipation (smallest tubes) then plate
modulated full class C finals with push pull class B modulators is best.
More work more parts, but well worth the time and effort in the long run.

My favorite in small legal limit stuff would be a pair of 812s push pull
class C, modulated by a pair of 811a is class B. 

-Original Message-
From: amradio-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:amradio-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Todd Carpenter
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 9:30 AM
To: AMRadio@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

I am interested is a simple design hf amplifier for am cw on 160-80/75-40.
These are the bands i operate on where the extra power would help. Fewer
parts count the better. Ultimately lower cost the better. I have power
supply parts and believe that i can generate around 2000 volts. I am slowly
researching tubes and am leaning toward 2 or 4 tubes that can basically
generate lots of watts at half to two thirds their ratings to prolong their
life span. Perhaps tubes such as 811's, 810's, 833's, 4-400's. I am open to
suggestions. I will need to build or acquire a heavy duty matching system as
part of the amp. My goal is at least 300 Watts AM. I do not want to mess
with systems that require cooling other than fans. I am not interested in
modes for this amp other than am and cw. It will almost exclusively be used
for am as i rarely use more than 5 watts on cw any way. Simpler cheaper is
better for me. I appreciate your suggestions. Todd  
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Re: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d

2009-10-05 Thread BILL GUYGER
Jim

As has been pointed out by others that transmitter was made by a company that 
went under some time back and definitely not Collins. I have had to work on 
some of their AM and FM products in the course of my professional career and 
frankly can't say that I enjoyed it especially the FM ones but the AM-1000 
might be good on 75. 

There was a company in Georgia that sold parts that was run by a gentleman with 
a very heavy Vietnamese accent, but I think they too went under. However!!! 
there is a company in Palestine, Texas
that is now selling CCA parts. Go to www.vernonboyce.org telephone number is 
903.729.6204
 
I've never talked to this guy, but the business manager of Broadcast Works who 
does deal with with him pointed me his way. He can probably help you with the 
documentation. I may and note the under line have a schematic left over from 
one I worked on in west Texas at KBST before it blew up one too many times and 
was replaced by a BE AM1A.
 
Bill AD5OL



From: KA4RFA - Jim Stewart ka4...@comporium.net
To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 4, 2009 8:46:39 PM
Subject: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d

rescued a continental am-1000d but have no documentation--can anyone help?

want to put on 1885

thanks

jim
ka4rfa
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Re: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

2009-10-05 Thread Bill McCourt - WF1L
Download the manual and schematic for Heathket SP-1000  or Ameritron AL-80.  
It's a pretty straight forward design running a single 3-500 in grounded grid 
and good for 160 thru 10M  The earlier two 3-500 tube amps that heath sold 
might work better for AM as the final tubes won't have to work the duty cycle 
as long.  Also check out back copies (pre 1960) of the Handbook for earlier 
designs.
 
Good luck!

Bill-WF1L

--- On Mon, 10/5/09, Todd Carpenter n9...@yahoo.com wrote:


From: Todd Carpenter n9...@yahoo.com
Subject: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?
To: AMRadio@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, October 5, 2009, 10:29 AM


I am interested is a simple design hf amplifier for am cw on 160-80/75-40. 
These are the bands i operate on where the extra power would help. Fewer parts 
count the better. Ultimately lower cost the better. I have power supply parts 
and believe that i can generate around 2000 volts. I am slowly researching 
tubes and am leaning toward 2 or 4 tubes that can basically generate lots of 
watts at half to two thirds their ratings to prolong their life span. Perhaps 
tubes such as 811's, 810's, 833's, 4-400's. I am open to suggestions. I will 
need to build or acquire a heavy duty matching system as part of the amp. My 
goal is at least 300 Watts AM. I do not want to mess with systems that require 
cooling other than fans. I am not interested in modes for this amp other than 
am and cw. It will almost exclusively be used for am as i rarely use more than 
5 watts on cw any way. Simpler cheaper is better for me. I appreciate your 
suggestions. Todd  
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Re: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

2009-10-05 Thread Edward Swynar
Hi Todd,

A rough rule-of-thumb to help get you started in your choice of tube(s) is
the following: your carrier OUTPUT---when the linear amplifier is used as
such, i.e. to boost the AM signal driving it from your exciter---is equal to
ONE HALF of the plate dissipation of your tubes...

I have a pair of G-G 813s in my HB kilowatt: each 813 is good for 125 watts
of plate dissipation, so one tube alone would be good for 62.5 watts of
carrier output in AM linear mode...the pair of them gives me a total of
125-watts of carrier, with a drive of some modulated 15 watts, or so, at the
linear's input jack...

No, it may not be as good to the purists as a full-bore 200 watt plate
carrier modulated by some 100 watts of P-P class B audio, but it'll STILL
make your presence on the band known, and in pretty good fashion, too...

Besides, have you seen many 100 watt plate modulation transformers for sale
anywhere lately...?!

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ


**


- Original Message -
From: Todd Carpenter n9...@yahoo.com
To: AMRadio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 10:29 AM
Subject: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?


 I am interested is a simple design hf amplifier for am cw on 160-80/75-40.
These are the bands i operate on where the extra power would help. Fewer
parts count the better. Ultimately lower cost the better. I have power
supply parts and believe that i can generate around 2000 volts. I am slowly
researching tubes and am leaning toward 2 or 4 tubes that can basically
generate lots of watts at half to two thirds their ratings to prolong their
life span. Perhaps tubes such as 811's, 810's, 833's, 4-400's. I am open to
suggestions. I will need to build or acquire a heavy duty matching system as
part of the amp. My goal is at least 300 Watts AM. I do not want to mess
with systems that require cooling other than fans. I am not interested in
modes for this amp other than am and cw. It will almost exclusively be used
for am as i rarely use more than 5 watts on cw any way. Simpler cheaper is
better for me. I appreciate your suggestions. Todd
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Re: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

2009-10-05 Thread Todd Carpenter
I have a heath dx 60 and vfo to drive it with. Just have to find someone to 
help me fix the dx60. I am not sure which is better, but no tune would be a 
plus. I have 6 of the  1625 tubes as well. I also have a 1940 handbook with a 
single tube 4-400 amp in it. But i am looking for maximum am output.

-Original Message-
From: John Coleman j...@pctechref.com
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 10:26 AM
To: 'Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service' amradio@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

Todd, 
Typically the linear amp will be the fewer parts and expense but with less
output than a full plate modulated class C rig per a given tube.  One of the
simplest tetrode linear systems is to put a 50 ohm load resistor right on
the grid of a big jug like a 4-1000 or a pair of 4-400s and use a zener to
bias the cathode circuit or fil return. It will also require a screen
supply.  The idea in all of this is that if the grid is loaded with a 50 ohm
dummy load, then it will not require tuning.  The small amount of input
capacitance will be negligible on the lower freq bands.  And it should not
require neutralization.  

OTH, If you are going linear with a triode or triode connected tetrodes then
you will want to go to a grounded grid linear.  No screen supply, no
neutralization, but does require more drive and/or may require drive tuning
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Re: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?

2009-10-05 Thread Greg Mijal
Hi Todd:

Sounds like a fun project.  I use a Swan MK2 amplifier on am for 200 w out 
using two 3-500Zs, input is 30w from an Elmac AF 67.
For 2 kvdc I think I would look into a pair of 813's running in grounded 
grid.  The 813 is a very rugged tube and show up at the flea markets and  at 
reasonable prices too.  The 572B might be a good choice too but cost more.
You said you needed a matching system and also that fewer parts is better. 
I recommend you avoid build an L tuner.  That's the random wire tuner using 
one capacitor and one coil.  I've used them before and they seem to put alot 
of RF in the shack.  I got nipped a bunch of times using a metal D 104 mic. 
I switched to a T tuner - two caps, one coil and an a balun and the shack rf 
disappeared.
Anyway,  have fun!
Greg
WA7LYO
Kinston NC
- Original Message - 
From: Todd Carpenter n9...@yahoo.com
To: AMRadio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 10:29 AM
Subject: [AMRadio] Any amplifier suggestions?


I am interested is a simple design hf amplifier for am cw on 160-80/75-40. 
These are the bands i operate on where the extra power would help. Fewer 
parts count the better. Ultimately lower cost the better. I have power 
supply parts and believe that i can generate around 2000 volts. I am slowly 
researching tubes and am leaning toward 2 or 4 tubes that can basically 
generate lots of watts at half to two thirds their ratings to prolong their 
life span. Perhaps tubes such as 811's, 810's, 833's, 4-400's. I am open to 
suggestions. I will need to build or acquire a heavy duty matching system 
as part of the amp. My goal is at least 300 Watts AM. I do not want to mess 
with systems that require cooling other than fans. I am not interested in 
modes for this amp other than am and cw. It will almost exclusively be used 
for am as i rarely use more than 5 watts on cw any way. Simpler cheaper is 
better for me. I appreciate your suggestions. Todd
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[AMRadio] CCA First Wednesday AM Night Oct 7th!!!

2009-10-05 Thread Larry WA9VRH
FIRST WEDNESDAY AM NIGHT!!! Sponsored by the Collins Collectors Association.

Wednesday October 7th, 2009 on 3880 kcs at 7:00 PM local East Coast time 
marks the start of the latest
chapter of First Wednesday AM Night, drawing hundreds of vintage stations 
from across the country.


The East Coast and Central sections run for 90 minutes in response to the 
tremendous participation in those time zones. The remaining time zones
will be an hour. We encourage stations to check-in on AM using Collins and 
other AM transmitters, new and
old.  It's an opportunity to revel in this nostalgic mode, enjoy giving 
vintage equipment a run, and sharing
some storytelling about classic vacuum tube homebrew and commercial designs. 
Typically more than a
hundred stations take part in the evening's coast-to-coast AM event; by the 
time it concludes at 10:00 PM
Local PST.

LISTEN for the following anchors and stop by to say hello, won't you? You 
don't have to be running Collins
or vintage gear to be welcomed into the group.

7:00 PM-8:30 PM Local East Coast Time Anchor:  Bob W0YVA

7:30 PM-9:00 PM Local Central Time Anchor:  Jim W0NKL and Brian K0EFJ

8:00 PM-9:00 PM Local Mountain Time Anchor: K0OJ Jim and Chuck KD0ZS

8:00 PM-9:00 PM Local West Coast Time Anchor:  WA6FIZ Mickey

We are still looking for additional anchors in the West Coast time zone. 
Please contact me if you are interested!

comments please to wa9...@dishmail.net


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[AMRadio] amplifier question

2009-10-05 Thread Bernie Doran
I frequently see questions regarding building an amp and seeking a schematic 
or other information. I think there is only one answer, DO NOT DO IT WITH 
OUT A LOT OF HELP FROM SOMEONE THAT WILL BE THERE WITH YOU!  If one has to 
seek a schematic they are simply not ready to work with high voltages, there 
is no such thing as a slight electrical shock when using the typical 
voltages in even a moderate power amp. these things will KILL YOU.

When was the last time you saw a lineman working on power lines by himself? 
Never.  There is an old verse  that fits this there are only two types of 
motorcycle riders, those that have gone down and those that are going to go 
down.   I was hit at  about 16 years old, it was only 500 volts from my 
finger to my elbow, same arm, I thought my arm was broken, could not move it 
for probably 30 min.   so now 50 + years later, I am still afraid of the 
stuff and that is a good thing.  One has to hear a capacitor or major fault 
with with a 3kv + supply every now and then to realize that this is not 
something to be casual about.

This is not meant to discourage, but it is a lot safer and probably cheaper 
to buy a manufactured amp unless you have a lot of experience.   Please do 
not kill your self. Bernie W8RPW

 


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Re: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d

2009-10-05 Thread KA4RFA - Jim Stewart
thanks

correction

from nameplate

CCA ELECTRONICS CORP
GLOUCESTER CITY, NEW JERSEY

MODEL AM-1000D#23110/1/71


- Original Message - 
From: BILL GUYGER bguy...@sbcglobal.net
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d


Jim

As has been pointed out by others that transmitter was made by a company 
that went under some time back and definitely not Collins. I have had to 
work on some of their AM and FM products in the course of my professional 
career and frankly can't say that I enjoyed it especially the FM ones but 
the AM-1000 might be good on 75.

There was a company in Georgia that sold parts that was run by a gentleman 
with a very heavy Vietnamese accent, but I think they too went under. 
However!!! there is a company in Palestine, Texas
that is now selling CCA parts. Go to www.vernonboyce.org telephone number is 
903.729.6204

I've never talked to this guy, but the business manager of Broadcast Works 
who does deal with with him pointed me his way. He can probably help you 
with the documentation. I may and note the under line have a schematic left 
over from one I worked on in west Texas at KBST before it blew up one too 
many times and was replaced by a BE AM1A.

Bill AD5OL



From: KA4RFA - Jim Stewart ka4...@comporium.net
To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 4, 2009 8:46:39 PM
Subject: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d

rescued a continental am-1000d but have no documentation--can anyone help?

want to put on 1885

thanks

jim
ka4rfa
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Re: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d

2009-10-05 Thread Brett Gazdzinski
I used to raid their dumpster, as I hung out with a friend who lived in 
Gloucester city.
I might still have some meters

I think they moved to cherry hill just before they went bust, and knew 
people that worked there, who walked off with stuff because they did not get 
paid


Brett

- Original Message - 
From: KA4RFA - Jim Stewart ka4...@comporium.net
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d


 thanks

 correction

 from nameplate

 CCA ELECTRONICS CORP
 GLOUCESTER CITY, NEW JERSEY

 MODEL AM-1000D#23110/1/71


 - Original Message - 
 From: BILL GUYGER bguy...@sbcglobal.net
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 amradio@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 11:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d


 Jim

 As has been pointed out by others that transmitter was made by a company
 that went under some time back and definitely not Collins. I have had to
 work on some of their AM and FM products in the course of my professional
 career and frankly can't say that I enjoyed it especially the FM ones but
 the AM-1000 might be good on 75.

 There was a company in Georgia that sold parts that was run by a gentleman
 with a very heavy Vietnamese accent, but I think they too went under.
 However!!! there is a company in Palestine, Texas
 that is now selling CCA parts. Go to www.vernonboyce.org telephone number 
 is
 903.729.6204

 I've never talked to this guy, but the business manager of Broadcast Works
 who does deal with with him pointed me his way. He can probably help you
 with the documentation. I may and note the under line have a schematic 
 left
 over from one I worked on in west Texas at KBST before it blew up one too
 many times and was replaced by a BE AM1A.

 Bill AD5OL


 
 From: KA4RFA - Jim Stewart ka4...@comporium.net
 To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, October 4, 2009 8:46:39 PM
 Subject: [AMRadio] CCA am-1000d

 rescued a continental am-1000d but have no documentation--can anyone help?

 want to put on 1885

 thanks

 jim
 ka4rfa
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Re: [AMRadio] AMRadio Digest, Vol 69, Issue 4

2009-10-05 Thread sbjohnston
Don wrote:

That would be true only if the original rectifiers were high vacuum 
tube
types.  With mercury vapour or xenon gas rectifiers, the voltage drop 
across
each tube is about 15 volts, regardless of the current.  When you are
talking about 2500 or 3000 volts total on the plate, the voltage drop 
across
the rectifiers is insignificant.

My experience has been that solid-state stacks cause the B+ to rise 
more when replacing vacuum rectifiers, but it also does it to a lesser 
extent with mercury vapor rectifiers.  I don't think I've ever done it 
with a xenon-filled tube.

Could also be something else at play in those cases, or faulty memory, 
I admit.  I might have upgraded filter caps at the same time, for 
example.  In any case, your observation indicates it is even easier to 
do the replacement for vapor/gas tubes.

Mercury vapor tubes put on a very pretty light show, so they should be 
used if possible.  -grin-  How do xenon tubes look in action?

Steve WD8DAS

sbjohns...@aol.com
http://www.wd8das.net/
-
Radio is your best entertainment value.
-


-Original Message-
From: D. Chester k4...@charter.net
To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, Oct 4, 2009 4:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] AMRadio Digest, Vol 69, Issue 4










 You can expect somewhat higher voltage from the new stack than the
 original tube rectifier - if that is a problem for the rig, then add a
 series power resistor to simulate the internal voltage drop of the
 earlier tube.  So far I've only needed to do that once when the new
 higher B+ exceeded the rating of the by-pass caps in the other 
sections
 of the rig.  Otherwise the rigs seemed to thrive on the higher 
voltage.

 Steve WD8DAS

That would be true only if the original rectifiers were high vacuum 
tube
types.  With mercury vapour or xenon gas rectifiers, the voltage drop 
across
each tube is about 15 volts, regardless of the current.  When you are
talking about 2500 or 3000 volts total on the plate, the voltage drop 
across
the rectifiers is insignificant.

With solid state, the voltage drop across each diode is about 0.7 
volts.  So
if you have 20 1kv diodes series strung to give 20kv p.i.v., you will 
have
approximately the same rectifier voltage drop that you would have with 
a set
of MV tubes.

Don k4kyv


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