Re: Root Aphids
Dear Daniel, Ant and aphids on roots is just about always a good sign. Ants cultivate the mycorrhyzae so there is a surplus for the aphids. Best, Hugh Dear Hugh, This morning I was pulling up some grass in the raspberries and saw some ants and aphids and the roots of one of the plants. I thought I remember you talking about aphids on roots at one point but can't remember what you said. Can you or someone comment on this again? Thanks Daniel - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:12 AM Subject: Re: Insect peppers Dear Essie, Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better. Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. Best, Hugh At 09:40 PM 6/24/02 -0400, Allan wrote: Essie - would you mind including a little more 'how to' info on your pepper making? What's your track record like? -Allan Allan - Here's the procedure, as I've done it. Collect as many specimens as you feel necessary. I collected a good 100 slugs, most adolescent, a couple of adults. All in one pass through the potatoes. Probably 50 potato beetles (dead), and maybe 70 potato beetle larvae (from lilies). The count is not exact. First I cooked the slugs. Put them in a small glass saucepan with cover (turned on the stove fan), and cooked them slowly until they were blackened. Then I crunched them up and cooked them some more until they were mostly (not entirely, however - I didn't have quite enough patience) white ash. Then cooled them a bit and put the ash into a small glass vial and put vial into bottom well of field broadcaster (slugs crawl rather than fly - hence bottom well). I followed the same process with the adult potato beetles, but put that vial into the upper well (since they fly). I followed the same process with the larvae, putting that vial into the bottom well. The larvae were shredding my Casa Blanca lilies (no others), and the shredded leaves were covered with what clearly was excrement, with larvae in the middle of the excrement. They definitely eat where they shit. And vice versa. Now, I've previously only peppered with slugs. Five years ago, I did it once and had (truly) an 80 percent reduction in two weeks. The next year I did it again and had an 80-85 percent reduction. Until this year, I was virtually slug-free since then. But this year the potatoes were innundated, with both slugs and adult potato beetles. The lilies were shredded by potato beetle larvae, and I've never had that problem before, ever. My area is low and wet, easily prone to slugs. Also, I used a great deal of leaf mulch this year as well - which apparently served as a "Y'all come" to the slug legions. Now, I made all peppers yesterday. Tonight, on patrol, I found two slugs, one beetle larva, and 11 adult beetles (10 of them copulating, two by two. The odd duck was doing something that could've been self-stimulating, but it was dark, the flashlight was weak, and I felt that the least I could do was to respect his/her privacy before squashing him/her. We've had a drastic change in weather since yesterday - from days of rain and drizzle to high pressure with some strong breezes and sun. The weather change definitely could influence the change in population. Stay tuned. I'll report on population levels every few days. Now, I also do have flea beetles and no stinging nettle to make a tea. They are too small to catch and pepper, or, believe me, I'd do that. Just to tack on a marginally related question - would application of equisetum tea be a good preventative for fungus on strawberries? Putting plants into tub with bubblers for a couple of days and then diluting a bit (how much?)? Best, Essie "CIA stands for Capitalism's Invisible Army" Buckminster Fuller Visit our website at: www.unionag.org Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Nettle tea for insect repellant
Dear Robert, I would get 4 or 5 cans of milky spore and treat little patches, preferably under berry vines and fruit trees where the beetles do their mating and drop to earth to bury their eggs in the sod. Milky spore will spread from there and in about 4 or 5 years you shouldn't have much of any problem any more. Also, has anyone tried kaolin on flea beetles? This finely powdered clay can be sprayed onto the foliage and it seems to foil a lwide variety of insects. It's non-toxic and can be incorporated into compost tea foliar sprays. Anyone try it? Best, Hugh >Hugh: > >I figure I have three acres affected. How much land do you recommend I >treat? > >Thanks, man! > >-- >Robert Farr >(540) 668-7160 >The Chile Man > >* An organic farm producing hot sauce marinades, salsas, >mustards, and barbecue. >* Subscribe to our online newsletter at http://www.thechileman.com > >* Check out this article about us from The Washington Post: >http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/style/food/A8659-2001Jul17.html > >* Open Houses and Farm Tours throughout the year. See web site for >details! Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Insect peppers
Dear Hugh and List members Like everybody else I have had mixed results with peppering, some spectacular, many so -so. The two that have worked the best for me have been decomposed rather than burnt. There is a little passage on this in Steiners book "Burning is the best and fastest way to go. You could also let it decay, but it is difficult to collect the end products of decomposition, although in some ways it might be better" this is about the middle of lecture six. Now I spose I could pretend that I'm clever and this was part of a plan but its the accidental result of slackness and forgetfullness. I gathered some slugs (quite a few) into a bottle of alcohol and, absent minded, left them on the front porch for a couple of months in the sun. When their mates decided to eat all my wifes strawberries and I went looking for the bodies for cremation there was only some brown mucky liquid in the bottle (90 proof spirit so burning this lot is going to be interesting) I just used it as was to make a D8 potency and put that out with a water can - spectacular result!! The slug one worked so well that I decided to try again when we got a few white ants in the back of our house - this time I meant to do it - some termites - these boys are pretty active they ate my 1inch hardwood tomato stakes clean through three times in the one season last year - from a trap box in the yard went into a bottle of water with a bit of solubilised ant dirt from the burrows, put in the sun on the window sill for about a week or so and then potentised up - six different potencies from D8 up to 5mm mixed together and drizzled round once about six weeks ago - this one is looking good at this stage too. These were instrument potencies in both cases so there was no actual substance left the bottles - its not a fungus or disease effect! Sounds crazy I know but it really worked! Cheers all Lloyd Charles
Making Rain
Dears, Recently I've had my hands full radionically making rain in Ontario, in Tamaulipas and right here on my home farm in North Georgia. I need to teach people how so there are enough folks out there with the expertise to take care of these things. The job is huge. But the technique is easy and do-able. I've been experimenting with it now for upwards of thirteen years and in that time I've only had to use my irrigation system once (8 yearsd ago) despite several droughts in Georgia. Originally I was radionically treating for rain using a Hieronymus Analyser with a sequence of BD remedies as with Hugh Courtney's sequential spray program. As time went on I found it was very helpful to incorporate color into the treatment so I used a lamp and color filters to shine color into the instrument's well, following the Dinshah Spectro-Chrome color method and using lemon to break up pollution and congestion and blue to contract the atmosphere. I would do a sequence of morning and evening treatments--horn manure the first evening, horn silica the next morning, barrel compost the following evening and horsetail the following morning. It eventually dawned on me that I was applying all these remedies in day/night homeopathic combinations, including also horn clay, to my entire farm with my field broadcaster. Why was I using raw preps instead of potencies and why sequence the remedies when I could do them in combination? My colleague, Lorraine Cahill, had a Malcolm Rae Extended Range Potentizer with interrupter, which could blink on and off and accomplish hundreds of tiny treatments per minute. Radionics not only makes use of Bell's Theorem (the Einstein, Podolsky, Rosen paradox, also known as the theory of non-locality or entanglement) but it also uses the principle of fluid dynamics known as the Butterfly Effect which says a microscopic change at a point can effect large scale changes in the medium. With the interrupter, with morning and evening (lime and silica) combinations of the same potencies as in my field broadcaster, and with color cards, the Malcolm Rae instrument made a very effective rain treatment. I commonly get rain here in the east in a couple days treatment. Of course it's a little easier at full moon than new moon, and other considerations. We tend to have over 50% moisture in the atmosphere, so that helps I imagine. You might have to treat for a week or two out in Santa Fe, and in Phoenix in the dry season it might take more. You speak of cloudbusters. That is using a hammer to swat a fly, and if one is not careful there can easily be collateral damage. Since rain depends on organizational pattern energy in the atmosphere radionics is a very feasible way of imparting such energy to a given locality. There is more moisture in the atmosphere now than we've ever seen before because the earth has warmed a bit and there is much greater evaporation. If we don't start breaking droughts here and there the overburden will have to go elsewhere as floods. So it would be responsible to clean up the atmosphere and spread out the rain. I'll be talking about this in my workshops at Allan's conference this fall. Stay tuned and make plans to attend. I will see about marketing the Malcolm Rae instruments in the US along with color and BD card sets and workshops on how to use them. Folks who are interested in this should contact me so I know what kind of demand there is out there in the US for these instruments. In other countries one may order the cards and instruments directly from England. I've just helped two farmers, one in Mexico and one in Canada, order instruments this past month. In Australia someone is making a Malcolm Rae type instrument domestically. James can probably provide that contact. Believe me when I say there is no need to suffer from drought. The moisture is there in the atmosphere, only the organizational patterns are not. It is relatively easy to rectify that. I've sold my irrigation equipment and don't expect to ever go back to running all those lines and pumps and watering day and night--too much work and too expensive. Also irrigation water doesn't grow such robust crops as rain does. Best, Hugh Lovel >James - > >RE: > ...counteracting the fear campaign being waged by > > vested interests in your country. > >Is this 'fear campaign' condition one that you radionically >diagnosed ? Doesn't one have to be more specific than >'vested interests' in the workup ? > >RE: the 'satellite photo' approach... >What rates, BF-remedies, Rae &/or sahjeevini cards, etc. >would you suggest be broadcast for bringing rain to the >parched SW USA ? > >According to the local media, this is the worst drought >the area has had in the past 100 years (recorded history ?) >The fires are a blazing testimony that report. Since >April, area bees & their keepers have been hard pressed >to produce a living because fewer flowers than normal >have been available. And on & on... > >The SW US needs
Root Aphids
Dear Hugh, This morning I was pulling up some grass in the raspberries and saw some ants and aphids and the roots of one of the plants. I thought I remember you talking about aphids on roots at one point but can't remember what you said. Can you or someone comment on this again? Thanks Daniel - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:12 AM Subject: Re: Insect peppers Dear Essie,Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better.Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture.As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant.Best,Hugh At 09:40 PM 6/24/02 -0400, Allan wrote: Essie - would you mind including a little more 'how to' info on your pepper making?What's your track record like?-AllanAllan -Here's the procedure, as I've done it.Collect as many specimens as you feel necessary. I collected a good 100 slugs, most adolescent, a couple of adults. All in one pass through the potatoes. Probably 50 potato beetles (dead), and maybe 70 potato beetle larvae (from lilies). The count is not exact. First I cooked the slugs. Put them in a small glass saucepan with cover (turned on the stove fan), and cooked them slowly until they were blackened. Then I crunched them up and cooked them some more until they were mostly (not entirely, however - I didn't have quite enough patience) white ash. Then cooled them a bit and put the ash into a small glass vial and put vial into bottom well of field broadcaster (slugs crawl rather than fly - hence bottom well).I followed the same process with the adult potato beetles, but put that vial into the upper well (since they fly).I followed the same process with the larvae, putting that vial into the bottom well. The larvae were shredding my Casa Blanca lilies (no others), and the shredded leaves were covered with what clearly was excrement, with larvae in the middle of the excrement. They definitely eat where they shit. And vice versa.Now, I've previously only peppered with slugs. Five years ago, I did it once and had (truly) an 80 percent reduction in two weeks. The next year I did it again and had an 80-85 percent reduction. Until this year, I was virtually slug-free since then. But this year the potatoes were innundated, with both slugs and adult potato beetles. The lilies were shredded by potato beetle larvae, and I've never had that problem before, ever. My area is low and wet, easily prone to slugs. Also, I used a great deal of leaf mulch this year as well - which apparently served as a "Y'all come" to the slug legions.Now, I made all peppers yesterday. Tonight, on patrol, I found two slugs, one beetle larva, and 11 adult beetles (10 of them copulating, two by two. The odd duck was doing something that could've been self-stimulating, but it was dark, the flashlight was weak, and I felt that the least I could do was to respect his/her privacy before squashing him/her. We've had a drastic change in weather since yesterday - from days of rain and drizzle to high pressure with some strong breezes and sun. The weather change definitely could influence the change in population. Stay tuned.I'll report on population levels every few days. Now, I also do have flea beetles and no stinging nettle to make a tea. They are too small to catch and pepper, or, believe me, I'd do that.Just to tack on a marginally related question - would application of equisetum tea be a good preventative for fungus on strawberries? Putting plants into tub with bubblers for a couple of days and then diluting a bit (how much?)?Best,Essie"CIA stands for Capitalism's Invisible Army"Buckminster FullerVisit our website at: www.unionag.org
malcollm rae cards
Dear Hugh, What are Malcolm Rae cards? How are they made? M.
Re: Insect peppers
Hi! Hugh, I am very interested in your comment:- "Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture." I am working in a remote area with no one to drop by and help, so in things like making peppers, I am only able to learn that which I can from books and the likes of this list. I have had mixed results with peppers. Some are straight Steiner, some are traditional Homoeopathic potencies, some are potenised with a Rae, Pot to Pot instrument and in some cases I have made Rae Cards. My results has been mixed. Some have worked spectacularly, some not at all, while one for Brown Snail actually attracts them and they will eat anything I spray with it. I have been doing the full cremation and there is definitely no carbon present. SO that may be my mistake!! My most successful effort was against the Australian Plague Locust. I had a single specimen in Brandy and a couple of photos in a Fact sheet. I made the Rae card with the intent of having the Locust not eat and suffer the consequence. A great contrast to the brown Snail effort. Gil Hugh Lovel wrote: > Dear Essie, > > Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a >tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I >take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm >Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I >gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I >guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will >work better. > > Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some >of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of >course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. > > As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the >nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying >the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates >from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws >in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. > > Best, > Hugh
Re: Insect peppers
Dear Essie, Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better. Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. Best, Hugh At 09:40 PM 6/24/02 -0400, Allan wrote: Essie - would you mind including a little more 'how to' info on your pepper making? What's your track record like? -Allan Allan - Here's the procedure, as I've done it. Collect as many specimens as you feel necessary. I collected a good 100 slugs, most adolescent, a couple of adults. All in one pass through the potatoes. Probably 50 potato beetles (dead), and maybe 70 potato beetle larvae (from lilies). The count is not exact. First I cooked the slugs. Put them in a small glass saucepan with cover (turned on the stove fan), and cooked them slowly until they were blackened. Then I crunched them up and cooked them some more until they were mostly (not entirely, however - I didn't have quite enough patience) white ash. Then cooled them a bit and put the ash into a small glass vial and put vial into bottom well of field broadcaster (slugs crawl rather than fly - hence bottom well). I followed the same process with the adult potato beetles, but put that vial into the upper well (since they fly). I followed the same process with the larvae, putting that vial into the bottom well. The larvae were shredding my Casa Blanca lilies (no others), and the shredded leaves were covered with what clearly was excrement, with larvae in the middle of the excrement. They definitely eat where they shit. And vice versa. Now, I've previously only peppered with slugs. Five years ago, I did it once and had (truly) an 80 percent reduction in two weeks. The next year I did it again and had an 80-85 percent reduction. Until this year, I was virtually slug-free since then. But this year the potatoes were innundated, with both slugs and adult potato beetles. The lilies were shredded by potato beetle larvae, and I've never had that problem before, ever. My area is low and wet, easily prone to slugs. Also, I used a great deal of leaf mulch this year as well - which apparently served as a "Y'all come" to the slug legions. Now, I made all peppers yesterday. Tonight, on patrol, I found two slugs, one beetle larva, and 11 adult beetles (10 of them copulating, two by two. The odd duck was doing something that could've been self-stimulating, but it was dark, the flashlight was weak, and I felt that the least I could do was to respect his/her privacy before squashing him/her. We've had a drastic change in weather since yesterday - from days of rain and drizzle to high pressure with some strong breezes and sun. The weather change definitely could influence the change in population. Stay tuned. I'll report on population levels every few days. Now, I also do have flea beetles and no stinging nettle to make a tea. They are too small to catch and pepper, or, believe me, I'd do that. Just to tack on a marginally related question - would application of equisetum tea be a good preventative for fungus on strawberries? Putting plants into tub with bubblers for a couple of days and then diluting a bit (how much?)? Best, Essie "CIA stands for Capitalism's Invisible Army" Buckminster Fuller Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
