Re: [blackbelly] (no subject)

2006-05-30 Thread Johnson, Oneta
I am glad others leave their ram out.  I only seperate my ewes for the first 
few days to let them and the babies have time together or if one just needs 
some alone time.  One of my ewes just had twins, way off of my others.  She 
wanted out of the pen and I let her.  She had them behind the barn and is very 
happy being away.  Most of my girls lamb the first of the year and in the fall. 
 I let mother nature take its course. We feed alf/corn and grass hay and 
alfalfa and vit/min. They all seem to do well.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Nancy
Richardson
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 2:48 PM
To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info
Subject: [blackbelly] (no subject)


We leave our ram year round. The ewes only bread when they are able to. We 
have some that breed after the lamb is 4 weeks and some that don't breed 
until the lamb is 3 or 4 months old. It just depends on the ewe. All are fed 
hay/alfalfa mix some grain and mineral  protein blocks year round so all 
are seemingly healthly. We have ram lambs for sale for breeders and a some 
ewes also.  Nancy - Mossysprings Ranch 

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[blackbelly] Breeding Programs

2006-05-30 Thread Barb Lee
Waxing philosophical here, and not being contentious or argumentative.

The ability to produce more than one litter of lambs per year is one of 
the priceless genetic gifts our blackbellies come equipped with.  It is 
necessary in some production models such as accelerated lambing and is 
part of the genetic gold that may theoretically be used at some point in 
the future to correct  selection errors that are sending some species of 
domestic animals down the poop chute.

Allowing breeding only once per year may actually be selecting against 
this trait.  Or in cases like myself, breeding only in February/March 
for late summer lambs... with enough time, would I create an isolated 
race of Blackbellies capable of breeding ONLY in Feb/March?  Right now I 
am taking advantage of their polyestrous nature.  I could be mindlessly 
headed down the road to eliminating it through preventing its natural 
expression.

The opposite is true, too.  If I deliberately select too heavily for a 
certain trait and discover later that it screws up some associated 
characteristic, I may never be able to un-select that previously 
desirable trait.

How can I know?  It's one of those cases of we don't know what we don't 
know.  But it is a case in point that we can't let sentimentality 
interfere too much with our breeding choices.  I would highly recommend 
reading the ALBC's conservation handbook to anybody who cherishes the 
Blackbelly sheep.  Not for a blueprint of how to run a breeding 
operation, but as an eye opener how one's breeding choices affect the 
future of the breeds, indeed the future of domestic livestock.  Being a 
hobby breeder doesn't mean being exempt from the laws of nature.

Regards,
Barb L. 


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[blackbelly] Questionaire

2006-05-30 Thread Dayna Denmark
Hello group,
After reading the latest on copper supplements I got to wondering. This 
group seems to be spread out over most of the U.S. and I am very curious as 
to what each of us feeds our sheep on a regular basis. I have added many 
items to my sheep diet because of this group. I think it would be 
interesting to see if we all do basically the same feed or are there any 
real big differences?
My daily routine:
Dry cob/ Alfalfa hay AM.I sprinkle a little Biotin in with the dry cob.( 
Corn, oats, barley).
Selenium w/ Deccox added free choice.
White salt free choice.
Pasture grazing.
PM carrots, apples,old bread, veggies, etc.

A few times a week they get some beet pulp pellets, and the ewes and lambs 
get some pelleted creep feed. Sometimes I put out baking soda free choice. I 
worm with ground flax seed which is added to any food.

Just curious if you have a minute...what do you feed???

Dayna


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Re: [blackbelly] thistle

2006-05-30 Thread Julian Hale
At 07:19 PM 5/27/2006, you wrote:
Hay Julian, let me clue you in to another perfectly astonishing thing 
about BUCKWHEAT.  It has a profound ability to take soil phosphorus 
which is unavailable to other plants, and when plowed in, release it in 
available form to other plants!!!

When we had our soil tested recently it came out to about one pound of 
available phosphorus per acre!  :o(  In the garden last year, I planted 
three successive crops of buckwheat, which I allowed to flower for the 
bees, then plowed under.

When I tested the garden soil it was positively SATURATED with 
phosphorus!!  Go for it!  If you could rotate it with legumes, then 
throw on the wood stove ashes, you'd have a nutritional goldmine!

Regards,
Barb L. 

Yeah, the phosphorus and calcium scavenging is definitely another plus.  I just 
did a little reading, and incorporating cow peas or soybeans with the buckwheat 
works well to boost N levels, so I'll call my seed guy on Tuesday and see what 
he can get me.  Or maybe I'll mix in some field peas into my pasture mix this 
fall, and use those for adding some N.  I could also seed more into the pasture 
in the spring, to help the grass hold up better through the summer.  
Apparently, field(winter) peas continue fixing N even when they are grazed.  I 
don't know if other peas/beans do or not, but field peas were specifically 
mentioned to do that.

I'm not sure where I would get that much wood ash, or how I would spread it 
out.  Supposedly feeding imported grain can cause an over-accumulation of 
potassium in the soil, so my free ranging chickens may take care of the 
potassium requirements anyway.  Hopefully feeding kelp meal and DE will 
contribute more trace minerals to the soil.

Julian 

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Re: [blackbelly] Mineral Mix

2006-05-30 Thread Julian Hale
At 07:32 PM 5/28/2006, you wrote:
Barb,
What is the mineral mix recipe that was from Pat Coleby? Maybe we aren't 
giving our sheep enough of what they need. We noticed that we had pretty 
small lambs this spring and a lot of singles - I was thinking that it was 
just the ewes taking a break from multiples Sure would appreciate the 
info or where to find it - it is on the net?  Sue Miller

According to http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/irrabina/info.htm#ml the mix is:

25kgs dolomite
4kgs copper sulphate
4kgs sulphur powder
4kgs seaweed meal 

Since all that really matters is proportions, you can substitute lbs of kgs.

Julian 

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