Re: [Blackbelly] lamb died right after birth
If the lamb was struggling in the birth canal for an hour that is too long. Assistance was required. My ewes will have triplets in less than 30 minutes. I would think the lamb died from stress/exhaustion. Sorry. Cecil in OKla blueberryfarm wrote: I watched a young ewe give birth to her first lamb a couple of days ago. It took her over an hour. To my inexperienced eye, everything seemed to go OK: ewe pushing hard, head first birth, momma licking all the mucus from her lamb, lamb struggling to get up, but then less and less struggling and finally death. The little ewe lived about 45 minutes after birth and never made it to her feet. Is there something I could/should have done? Did I miss some clue? Should I have lifted her to her feet? I watched the whole affair from about 100 feet with binoculars. Relative with my experience with dogs, it all seemed quite normal. All my other lambs have been born without complications and out of my sight. I would appreciate any suggestions. Jerry Pearl River County in south Mississippi ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] ADVICE NEEDED
Just my 2 cents on wormers . I have found safeguard to be as effective as WATER in worming sheep (in other words NOT!). I would suggest, if that is the problem with Sally, that you use Cydectin drench instead of safeguard. I do agree that an injectable is in order and switching between 2 different kinds should be done every 2 weeks until the problem is solved. Moving her to a NEW pasture that has not been grazed by sheep would be ideal. Onalee -Original Message- From: blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info [mailto:blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info] On Behalf Of The Wintermutes Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:52 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] ADVICE NEEDED Hi Dayna, I can provide some ideas but no guarantees. It sounds like your Sally is under a continual parasite load from her environment. Two weeks after worming is about the time most parasites are beginning to be active in a re-infected sheep. Most sheep would not show symptoms simply because they are in better condition. Your Sally being in frail condition just deteriates quickly. So I would give her a injectable wormer like the Dectomax. The Dectomax lasts in theory 8 weeks against parasites. In reality the Dectomax does last much longer but its effectiveness tapers off considerably after three weeks. Knowing that the Dectomax will not be a perfect solution I would provide a Safeguard drench (different family of wormer) every other week. This should control the parasites and a fecal test by your vet to prove she is free of parasites should be done. Coccidiosis could also be problematic and the fecal test would show if it is present. Follow the directions for Corid in the drinking water if they are present. Now that Sally is free of parasites address her environment and nutrition. Get her away from old pastures ASAP. Feed her the best hay and feed possible and within reason all she can eat. The remaining concern is if she is pregnant. If she is as frail as it sounds and pregnant neither the fetus or mother will likely survive. If she does have the lamb and it lives I would immediately turn it into a bottle baby. The focus on Sally is to build her back up into full condition before allowing any new opportunity for parasites (or ram) to act on her. There are other possibilities for Sally's condition such as OPP, Johnes disease, old age, tumors,... so everything above could be of no benefit. And as you mentioned putting her down might be the most humane action taken. Such a decision is difficult and requires a total measure of Sally's remaining potential to you. Wishing you luck, Mark Subject: [Blackbelly] ADVICE NEEDED need some help from the group. A few months ago I told everyone about my old ewe Sally who started to refuse to eat. I wormed her with Levasole and she showed great improvement about a day later and began to act like her old self. Appetite good, more active, etc. Then about 2 weeks later she started to backslide. I began drenching her with sheep nutri-drench 1 ounce twice a day. Not much improvement so I gave her the powdered garlic/ molasses drench I posted on the list. Once again she showed great improvement the next day and had a great appetite. Two weeks later she backslides again. So bad this time my husband asked me if I wanted him to put her down. I wasn't ready to give up so I purchased Ivomec sheep drench and gave her 10 cc's.Next day she once again showed great improvement, ate cob and hay and whatever else I could sneak to her. Weight started coming back and all was good for two weeks. This morning she is back to refusing her food. I am at a loss here as to what is going on. Doesn't make sense to me that the wormer would help if she DIDN'T have parasites. Could it be I am under-drenching? Sally weighs 60 lbs. She is a black hawaiian so it's not as easy to judge her gum color but her inner eye isn't super pink, somewhere in the mid range I think. Anyway I am truly at a loss here on what to try next so any suggestions would really help. Dayna Denmark Half Ass Acres ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Blackbelly Digest, Vol 5, Issue 27
I hate to promote a certain brand but I use Kent milk replacer. My lambs do great! I have 21 now! The only catch is that I mix it at about 20oz of water instead of 16. This makes it not so rich and give scours or bloat if they happen to over eat just a little and also pepto will take care of it quickly. I also at about 3 weeks put out the kent lamb 20 pellets which now at 5 weeks they have fell in love with although they don't eat alot compared to the hay they are eating. I also feed about every 5 hours at this age. I know this is alot of info but sometimes it helps in advance to know things that could happen and overt them. Nancy - Original Message - From: blackbelly-requ...@lists.blackbellysheep.info To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 5:01 PM Subject: Blackbelly Digest, Vol 5, Issue 27 Send Blackbelly mailing list submissions to blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to blackbelly-requ...@lists.blackbellysheep.info You can reach the person managing the list at blackbelly-ow...@lists.blackbellysheep.info When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Blackbelly digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Milking (Michael Smith) 2. Re: Milking (j...@netzero.net) 3. ADVICE NEEDED (Dayna Denmark) -- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:52:19 -0800 From: Michael Smith mwsmotorspo...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Milking To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Message-ID: 3eabf8bc0902181652u3cc6c474j928ec3b08948d...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Thanks to everyone for their thoughtful responses. Yesterday I found BamBam, they boy, had a temperature 2 degrees lower than the rest of the lambs. Being new to shepherding, I made an appointment with the vet this morning and brought him in. His temp was back up to normal but he was still resting while everyone was frolicking. The Vet's advice was to add some goat's milk (real, not supplement) to his diet --as he will eat it. His point was: if he takes a bottle at all, he's hungry, especially if he's used to his mother's milk. This Vet is an experienced shepherder as well. Also, we are strongly considering converting our 4 lambs to the bottle soon, anyways, because we would like them tame. We're not raising them for livestock. So I'd like to get the milking thing under my belt. While we can work supplement into the diet, I would like the bottle conversion to start with goat or sheep's milk. I'll check out my ewe as Mark advised, and compare to another ewe in the same nursery pen. From what I remember the bag on both udders felt pliable and water ballon like, but there was some very firm tissue under the entire bag area. (probably normal?) I'll check for a mucous plug as well. I have an experienced goat herder who raises pygmies, coming by this weekend to try to milk some of my ewes, to see if we can get past my barrier with them. _Michael, Perino Ranch Blackbellies. -- Message: 2 Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 02:09:41 GMT From: j...@netzero.net j...@netzero.net Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Milking To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Udderly EZ Milker device?
I purchased this last year and haven't had to use it yet, but it is comforting to know it is there. I plan to use it to milk my goat this year. The device has a solid reputation and has been featured in Sheep! Magazine. (Anything endorsed by that magazine's editor is usually good.) My only concern is that because the EZ doesn't pulse as a milking machine does but rather has a steady vacuum, it might be hard on the udder for long-term milking. Carol At 04:33 PM 2/19/2009, you wrote: I decided to do a search, took me two seconds to come up with... http://www.udderlyezllc.com/ anyone try this? (pretty expensive) Carol Elkins Critterhaven--Registered Barbados Blackbelly Hair Sheep (no shear, no dock, no fuss) Pueblo, Colorado http://www.critterhaven.biz ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] ADVICE NEEDED
The problem with these is you don't know which ones are eating it and which aren't - some will not touch these blocks while others may eat it until they pop, so some get some wormer and others get none - that's the same with the safeguard pellets, some will eat them and some won't. Onalee -Original Message- From: blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info [mailto:blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info] On Behalf Of j...@netzero.net Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 12:02 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] ADVICE NEEDED A little off the subject of poor Sally but has anyone tried the Safeguard mineral block? ($40 here) Someone locally said they tried it on cattle and it wasn't enough. I think I'll get one since it's so hard to segregate each animal and the alfalfa pellets I put the liquid one into. I've tried squirting it into their mouths but they shake it away. I also am in favor of taking the stool to the vet. Ours likes at least a 1/2 a cup to work with and only charges me $12 for the test. (The vet laughed at the small amount I brought in the first time) Aloha a hui hou kaua! (Goodbye until we meet again) Barbara Heavens POB 1869, Kea`au, Hawaii 96749 (808) 968-0814 ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
