Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[Mickey Fixsen]

This procedure works fine for the sighted, but is a very poor approach for 
blind woodworkers.

For accuracy and repeatability, blind woodworkers need to use either a store 
bought, or shop built jig, or use fences and stops on a drill press.  You can 
use a jig that is designed to work in conjuction with a plunge router equipped 
with a guide bushing and a 1/4" straight bit.  You can also use a jig along 
with a hand drill and a drill guide.  

Marking lines and using these as a blind person just doesn't work worth a hoot.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 6:47 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes


  Hi
  Drilling shelf pin holes is easy if you follow a few simple steps.
  Installing Adjustable Shelf Pins
  Consistency Is Key

  Adjustable shelving is a common feature of virtually any type of cabinet 
  and a simple way to increase the versatility of the project.

  Drilling the cabinet sides to accept the pins that support the shelves is 
  easier than you might think. The most important part of the process is being
  consistent. Since each shelf is supported by a pair of pins at each end, the 
  holes must be level for the installed shelf to be level. The good news is
  you can handle this task with basic equipment in a minimal amount of time.

  A 6" combination square is perfect for laying out the pin hole locations. 
  Here the blade is used to trace the vertical lines onto the cabinet side 
  piece.

  Drilling Options

  The goal of drilling is to produce holes that are accurately aligned to 
  each other front to back and equally spaced vertically. In addition, the 
  holes
  must fit the pins closely, be 90-degrees to the side and deep enough for the 
  pin to seat fully.

  While a hand-held drill can be used, it must be held exactly 90-degrees 
  to the surface and very steady to avoid increasing the diameter of the 
  holes.
  If the holes are not precise, the pins will hang and the shelf will rock or 
  tilt.

  Using a drill press is by far the easiest way to eliminate nearly all of 
  these problems. Even the most basic drill press is capable of drilling shelf
  pin holes quickly and accurately. I have drilled shelf pin holes with a 10", 
  benchtop press for years with no problems.

  The blade on my 6" combination square is 3/4"-wide, perfect for spacing the 
  rows of pin locations.

  Jigs

  Manufactured jigs that vary widely in price and capabilities are 
  available for drilling shelf pin holes. Common pegboard can be used to build 
  a drilling
  jig but has liabilities as well. If the cabinet has a recessed back panel, 
  two jigs may be necessary. In addition, pegboard is very soft and the holes
  easily enlarged during drilling, greatly reducing accuracy.

  Layout

  A very accurate layout can be drawn quickly using a simple combination 
  square and a sharp Scriber. Creating a simple grid on the cabinet sides 
  makes drilling
  an accurate set of holes easy, particularly on a drill press.

  The pins should be set in from the edges of the shelf sufficiently to 
  limit their visibility while maximizing support. Set the blade of the square 
  to
  locate the forward line of holes and draw that line on both cabinet sides, 
  top to bottom.

  fast and simple.

  Because most cabinets have a rabbet that recesses the back panel, the 
  rear line of holes must be set in from the edge of that rabbet. With the 
  square
  adjusted as needed, draw the line for the rear line of pins on both cabinet 
  sides.

  Start laying out the horizontal lines by finding the vertical center of 
  the cabinet sides and drawing a line across the width making sure to cross 
  both
  vertical layout lines.

  The vertical spacing between the rows of holes can be whatever you like 
  but I find ¾" works very well. This also is the width of the blade on most 
  6"
  combination squares. Using the blade itself to space the lines of holes 
  makes this part of the layout fast, simple and all but goof-proof.

  The holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the pin to insure a 
  flush fit.

  Align the edge of the blade to the centerline and draw a line along the 
  other side of it. Move the square down, register the blade with that line 
  and
  repeat the process until you get close to the end of the cabinet side. Go 
  back to the center and draw lines on the remaining half of that piece. Do 
  the
  same on the other cabinet side and the grids will match.

  The holes can be run as close to the ends of the cabinet sides as you 
  like but be realistic. It is unlikely that a shelf will be placed within 2 
  or 3-inches
  of either the top or bottom of the cabinet making pin holes in those areas 
  unnecessary.

  Drilling

  Note: When using a manufactured jig, follow the directions that came with 
  it.Install the appropriate-sized brad point bit for the shelf-pins into the 
  drill
  p

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[brice mijares]

If I had to drill pin holes, I'd make me a template.  


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[BlindHandyMan] neat shelf

[Lenny McHugh]

About 15 years ago I was telling my boss about a project that I was making. He 
told me about a bookshelf that his grandfather   made. I have often thought 
about constructing something on the principal that he used.
He took two long pieces 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" wide. He drilled a 3/4" hole spaced 
about 1/4" or 3/8" apart down the length of the stock.
Then he would split these two boards. These would be then secured along the 
inside  front and back sides of a book or curio shelf. The shelves would be 
3/4" stock totally rounded over along the sides. The shelves would slide into 
the side half holes.
It gave a very unique, scalloped, look.
I have been planning to make a mission style table for my daughter's home and 
am thinking about adding this to the table for storage. The table is just a 
small telephone table with one sliding shelf at the top.  I will probably start 
that project next fall/winter.

Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] horizontal table

[Tom Huhn]

BlankHi Lenny, who makes this horizontal router table and wher can you buy 
it?  thanks Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working

[Robert j. moore]

I have the following tools and want to start out with a very simple wood
working project to build my skill and confidence. I am thinking some think
like a small book shelf, simple bird house or a dog house. at this point the
simpler the better. any suggestions and basic instructionson a simple
starter project would be welcome.
Tools I have and know how to safely operate are.
Chop saw, I have to check if it is a 8 inch or a 10 inch.
small table saw.
hand held jig saw.
claw hammer.
drills both electric and cordless.
hand saw.
and the only measuring tool I have is one of those ribbon things that a
Taylor would use to take your measurements. it is marked for 1/2 inches. I
think that will work just fine though for starters.
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Huhn
  Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:18 AM
  To: blind
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] horizontal table


  BlankHi Lenny, who makes this horizontal router table and wher can you buy
  it? thanks Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Robert,

You have more tools than I had when I started and pretty good variety as 
well.

You do need a better measuring method though, I know the tape measure you 
speak of and use them for measuring body parts on-the-job but it is 
inadequate for wood working and will very soon frustrate you.

One problem with small jobs is that they often require even more precision. 
The materials tend to be thin and things like drilling accurate holes for 
screws or driving accurate straight nails are difficult at a time when you 
haven't yet developed those skills. These are of course very broad 
generalizations.

My advice is that you look for a problem that needs solving or maybe a 
project you want. Making a planter for the sake of it leaves you with a 
planter you don't want or need. Shelving to hold books now stored on the 
floor or in a stack of boxes where they are difficult to access is a problem 
to be solved and maybe resolved even more than once.

I guess that my point is that you should choose something you really want to 
do then figure out how you want to do it.

With that tool selection you can probably do most things. With the right 
skills even pretty fine furniture, maybe not a piano or pipe organ but 
close.

Depending on the project, you will also need a few clamps. Wood workers 
never have too many clamps.

At least a few 4 inch 'C' clamps I did a lot of work with half a dozen or 
less of those when I started.

Spend a few bucks on some good quality clamps, anything less will frustrate 
you and could well spoil an otherwise good experience. Also, get a better 
measuring system, a braille folding carpenters rule at the very least. I now 
have come to really love my rotorule if that is what it is called but did a 
lot of work with wooden folding rulers over the years. One of those sliding 
trisquares, the sort that has a 90 and 45 degree frame that can slide up and 
down usually on a 12 inch rule and locks wit a nut. I like to have a large 
framing square around as well but got along pretty well without one for 
quite a long time. Again buy good. I have one framing square someone bought 
for me that bends and has a couple of small ripples in it from being walked 
on or dropped. A really good one is more likely to break falling from a 
rafter which is how I came by this nasty cheap one.

I built modest kitchen cabinets and other shelving when we were first 
married and living in the top of a tenement slum in West Ealing back in the 
early '70s with only hand tools, a hand saw, crank drill, miter box, half 
and three quarters chisels which I still own, sliding square, folding 2 foot 
braille ruler.  I did have and still have my ball bearing level but mostly 
that isn't all that necessary depending on your projects.

I made dados with the hand saw and chisels, something I wouldn't consider 
today but the point is that I did it and so can anyone else. Not quite so 
accurate and finished as my work is today but I am also more skilled.

A very large number of people have no real refined ability in wood working, 
I have learned that even fairly modest projects are often admired by people 
who just don't know even where they might start.

Try not to be too refined at the beginning just so you don't get frustrated 
and give up before you give yourself a fighting chance.

Nothing succeeds like success!

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Robert j. moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:59 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working


>I have the following tools and want to start out with a very simple wood
> working project to build my skill and confidence. I am thinking some think
> like a small book shelf, simple bird house or a dog house. at this point 
> the
> simpler the better. any suggestions and basic instructionson a simple
> starter project would be welcome.
> Tools I have and know how to safely operate are.
> Chop saw, I have to check if it is a 8 inch or a 10 inch.
> small table saw.
> hand held jig saw.
> claw hammer.
> drills both electric and cordless.
> hand saw.
> and the only measuring tool I have is one of those ribbon things that a
> Taylor would use to take your measurements. it is marked for 1/2 inches. I
> think that will work just fine though for starters.



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the follow

RE: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working

[Robert j. moore]

Dale
Thank you for all the good tips and encouragement. After reading your post I
realized that I have more tools that I can use for wood working than I
thought. I have one of those sliding try squares  but it is not marked.I
think that I still could make some use of it. I also have a couple of good c
clamps. I would like to get some of those clamps that you pull the trigger
to tighten it.
I also have a wood chisel but don't know how wide it is. I also have some
corner clamps like I suppose you would use to hold picture frames together
with while the glue is drying, If I can ever find them.
Ohya one other tool that I have that is handy is a pick up truck and a
driver. Makes it a lot more handy and less time consuming than trying to
cary lumber 8 miles on your back.


  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 12:49 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working


  Hi Robert,

  You have more tools than I had when I started and pretty good variety as
  well.

  You do need a better measuring method though, I know the tape measure you
  speak of and use them for measuring body parts on-the-job but it is
  inadequate for wood working and will very soon frustrate you.

  One problem with small jobs is that they often require even more
precision.
  The materials tend to be thin and things like drilling accurate holes for
  screws or driving accurate straight nails are difficult at a time when you
  haven't yet developed those skills. These are of course very broad
  generalizations.

  My advice is that you look for a problem that needs solving or maybe a
  project you want. Making a planter for the sake of it leaves you with a
  planter you don't want or need. Shelving to hold books now stored on the
  floor or in a stack of boxes where they are difficult to access is a
problem
  to be solved and maybe resolved even more than once.

  I guess that my point is that you should choose something you really want
to
  do then figure out how you want to do it.

  With that tool selection you can probably do most things. With the right
  skills even pretty fine furniture, maybe not a piano or pipe organ but
  close.

  Depending on the project, you will also need a few clamps. Wood workers
  never have too many clamps.

  At least a few 4 inch 'C' clamps I did a lot of work with half a dozen or
  less of those when I started.

  Spend a few bucks on some good quality clamps, anything less will
frustrate
  you and could well spoil an otherwise good experience. Also, get a better
  measuring system, a braille folding carpenters rule at the very least. I
now
  have come to really love my rotorule if that is what it is called but did
a
  lot of work with wooden folding rulers over the years. One of those
sliding
  trisquares, the sort that has a 90 and 45 degree frame that can slide up
and
  down usually on a 12 inch rule and locks wit a nut. I like to have a large
  framing square around as well but got along pretty well without one for
  quite a long time. Again buy good. I have one framing square someone
bought
  for me that bends and has a couple of small ripples in it from being
walked
  on or dropped. A really good one is more likely to break falling from a
  rafter which is how I came by this nasty cheap one.

  I built modest kitchen cabinets and other shelving when we were first
  married and living in the top of a tenement slum in West Ealing back in
the
  early '70s with only hand tools, a hand saw, crank drill, miter box, half
  and three quarters chisels which I still own, sliding square, folding 2
foot
  braille ruler. I did have and still have my ball bearing level but mostly
  that isn't all that necessary depending on your projects.

  I made dados with the hand saw and chisels, something I wouldn't consider
  today but the point is that I did it and so can anyone else. Not quite so
  accurate and finished as my work is today but I am also more skilled.

  A very large number of people have no real refined ability in wood
working,
  I have learned that even fairly modest projects are often admired by
people
  who just don't know even where they might start.

  Try not to be too refined at the beginning just so you don't get
frustrated
  and give up before you give yourself a fighting chance.

  Nothing succeeds like success!

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message -
  From: "Robert j. moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:59 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working

  >I have the following tools and want to start out with a very simple wood
  > working project to build my skill and confidence. I am thinking some
think
  > like a small book shelf, simple

Re: [BlindHandyMan] horizontal table

[Lenny McHugh]

Hi Tom,
I purchased my regular router table and all of my bits from MLCS Router Bits 
and Woodworking Products
I also purchased a few jigs, pocket hole and shelf pin

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/
- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Huhn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "blind" 
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:17 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] horizontal table


BlankHi Lenny, who makes this horizontal router table and wher can you buy
it?  thanks Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working

[John Schwery]

For measuring, I would recommend a rotomatic.  Some people like a 
click rule.  You can get either from the NFB materials center.

earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:

>Hi Robert,
>
>You have more tools than I had when I started and pretty good variety as
>well.
>
>You do need a better measuring method though, I know the tape measure you
>speak of and use them for measuring body parts on-the-job but it is
>inadequate for wood working and will very soon frustrate you.
>
>One problem with small jobs is that they often require even more precision.
>The materials tend to be thin and things like drilling accurate holes for
>screws or driving accurate straight nails are difficult at a time when you
>haven't yet developed those skills. These are of course very broad
>generalizations.
>
>My advice is that you look for a problem that needs solving or maybe a
>project you want. Making a planter for the sake of it leaves you with a
>planter you don't want or need. Shelving to hold books now stored on the
>floor or in a stack of boxes where they are difficult to access is a problem
>to be solved and maybe resolved even more than once.
>
>I guess that my point is that you should choose something you really want to
>do then figure out how you want to do it.
>
>With that tool selection you can probably do most things. With the right
>skills even pretty fine furniture, maybe not a piano or pipe organ but
>close.
>
>Depending on the project, you will also need a few clamps. Wood workers
>never have too many clamps.
>
>At least a few 4 inch 'C' clamps I did a lot of work with half a dozen or
>less of those when I started.
>
>Spend a few bucks on some good quality clamps, anything less will frustrate
>you and could well spoil an otherwise good experience. Also, get a better
>measuring system, a braille folding carpenters rule at the very least. I now
>have come to really love my rotorule if that is what it is called but did a
>lot of work with wooden folding rulers over the years. One of those sliding
>trisquares, the sort that has a 90 and 45 degree frame that can slide up and
>down usually on a 12 inch rule and locks wit a nut. I like to have a large
>framing square around as well but got along pretty well without one for
>quite a long time. Again buy good. I have one framing square someone bought
>for me that bends and has a couple of small ripples in it from being walked
>on or dropped. A really good one is more likely to break falling from a
>rafter which is how I came by this nasty cheap one.
>
>I built modest kitchen cabinets and other shelving when we were first
>married and living in the top of a tenement slum in West Ealing back in the
>early '70s with only hand tools, a hand saw, crank drill, miter box, half
>and three quarters chisels which I still own, sliding square, folding 2 foot
>braille ruler. I did have and still have my ball bearing level but mostly
>that isn't all that necessary depending on your projects.
>
>I made dados with the hand saw and chisels, something I wouldn't consider
>today but the point is that I did it and so can anyone else. Not quite so
>accurate and finished as my work is today but I am also more skilled.
>
>A very large number of people have no real refined ability in wood working,
>I have learned that even fairly modest projects are often admired by people
>who just don't know even where they might start.
>
>Try not to be too refined at the beginning just so you don't get frustrated
>and give up before you give yourself a fighting chance.
>
>Nothing succeeds like success!
>
>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Skype DaleLeavens
>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Robert j. moore" 
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:59 AM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working
>
> >I have the following tools and want to start out with a very simple wood
> > working project to build my skill and confidence. I am thinking some think
> > like a small book shelf, simple bird house or a dog house. at this point
> > the
> > simpler the better. any suggestions and basic instructions on a simple
> > starter project would be welcome.
> > Tools I have and know how to safely operate are.
> > Chop saw, I have to check if it is a 8 inch or a 10 inch.
> > small table saw.
> > hand held jig saw.
> > claw hammer.
> > drills both electric and cordless.
> > hand saw.
> > and the only measuring tool I have is one of those ribbon things that a
> > Taylor would use to take your measurements. it is marked for 1/2 inches. I
> > think that will work just fine though for starters.
>
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.6/617 - Release Date: 
>1/5/2007 11:11 AM

John


-- 
No vir

Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working

[Dale Leavens]

I once did see a square marked in braille with a strip of metal stuck to one 
surface, it didn't stay very well and isn't really necessary anyway.

The tool has many uses, I often use it as a gauge, say you want to set a 
strip to hold up a shelf or something and you need it a fixed distance from 
one edge of a member, you can slide the square along to the distance you 
need, screw it down then use it to gauge the distance while you fix the 
strip into place. I have often used it to find a width then transfer that to 
my table saw setting the square to the fence side of the blade then sliding 
the fence up to touch the end of the rule, things like that. It can be 
clamped to a board using the edge over the edge of the board and using the 
ruler to make an absolutely 90 degree cross cut. You can then clamp a piece 
of scrap snug against the rule and use a hand saw guided by the scrap to 
make a fairly decent and square and accurate cross cut. Did it many times 
before I had a proper power saw.

A circular saw is very useful for cutting and ripping sheets of things like 
plywood down to useable and approximate dimensions however I have and still 
occasionally use a jigsaw for this purpose. I clamp a straight edge just as 
you would for a circular saw and provided you are reasonably patient and 
don't push the jig saw too fast so that the blade wants to bend, you can get 
a really very good straight cut. I strongly recommend this method to anyone 
who is even the slightest frightened by a circular saw. They are fully 
nonforgiving. While a jig saw isn't a trivial tool it will hurt you but it 
would be challenging to remove a digit or even cut a tendon and all the same 
skills you will eventually need if you do get a circular saw you can gain on 
a jig saw in preparation for that day.

As a beginning, most lumber yards will dimension plywood for you, they may 
charge a little for that but if you are making shelves 12 inches wide and 
need 8 of them it can be very convenient especially for the beginner to have 
the yard rip the sheets down for you. No need to get bogged down with that 
sort of detail before you even get started and they will be a lot easier to 
hump about the yard and shop.

Once you get started you will probably soon want a guide for your jig saw so 
you can rip a foot off of a sheet of plywood. You can make the same sort as 
are used for circular saws and this will reduce the complexity of measuring 
offsets.

I was very interested to read the article Rae sent around on comparing three 
circular saws, I think i may buy one of them. Of interest though is the 
reference in at least two cases and maybe all three to the nice high edge of 
the shoe plate for keeping snug against a straight edge and the 
standardization of the offset to the blade of inch and a half on the blade 
side and five inches on the other side. The reviewer also took care to check 
that the blade ran truly parallel to the edge of the shoe and at least one 
of the saws included an adjustment should that go off of true. I well 
remember a time when sighted observers raved about how straight my rip cuts 
were and marveled at the use of a straight edge to cut them.  You would 
think now that the sighted had invented the technique. Until now most of my 
equipment anyway had an offset of inch and a quarter or inch and three 
eighths and is a real problem in establishing the correct offset from a 
straight edge.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Robert j. moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working


> Dale
> Thank you for all the good tips and encouragement. After reading your post 
> I
> realized that I have more tools that I can use for wood working than I
> thought. I have one of those sliding try squares  but it is not marked.I
> think that I still could make some use of it. I also have a couple of good 
> c
> clamps. I would like to get some of those clamps that you pull the trigger
> to tighten it.
> I also have a wood chisel but don't know how wide it is. I also have some
> corner clamps like I suppose you would use to hold picture frames together
> with while the glue is drying, If I can ever find them.
> Ohya one other tool that I have that is handy is a pick up truck and a
> driver. Makes it a lot more handy and less time consuming than trying to
> cary lumber 8 miles on your back.
>
>
>  -Original Message-
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>  Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 12:49 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting started in wood working
>
>
>  Hi Robert,
>
>  You have more tools than I had when I started and pretty good variety as
>  well.
>
>  You do need a better measuring me

[BlindHandyMan] measuring

[Lenny McHugh]

Hi All,
I use two tools for measuring. A talking tape measure and a device that was 
made about 60 years ago at the Over Brook School for the Blind in Philadelphia.
This device is a piece of all thread rod with 16 turns per inch. One side is 
planed off every 1/2" and the opposite side is totally planed. There is a  part 
about 1"x2" drilled and tapped. and a locking nut. there are two extension rods 
a 1 and a a 2 foot.
By counting the turns and feeling from each 1/2"  spot I can make a very 
accurate measurement. Each full turn is 1/16" a half and quarter turn are a 
32nd and 64th respectively.
My talking tape measure is 1/16" accuracy witha metric option.
It is designed for taking both inside and outside measurements.
I purchased the talking tape measure from:
Products for the Blind - Visually Impaired - Suppliers of audible products - 
Cobolt UK
http://www.cobolt.co.uk/

Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[mardal dugal]

I don't know what a pin hole or a template is so email me back about this. I 
want to learn about tools. I'm an open minded person.

brice mijares <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  If I had to drill pin holes, 
I'd make me a template. 


 

 __
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[Dale Leavens]

Hello Mardel,

Welcome to the list.

The topic is about drilling holes into which small pins, usually about a 
quarter of an inch thick and about three quarters of an inch long are pushed 
and used to hold shelves in place in a cabinet. These must be very 
accurately spaced or the shelf will not rest flat. You can move the pins 
into different holes to set the shelf at different heights.

A jig or template is a sort of device one can make or buy to use as a guide 
to repeat the same thing over and over. If it is accurately made and used it 
will insure that the holes are precisely located.

Hope this is helpful.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "mardal dugal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes


>I don't know what a pin hole or a template is so email me back about this. 
>I want to learn about tools. I'm an open minded person.
>
> brice mijares <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  If I had to drill pin 
> holes, I'd make me a template.
>
>
>
>
> __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
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> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.6/617 - Release Date: 5/01/2007
>
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
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Visit the new archives page at the following address
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