Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Paul Franklin]

Robert, Could the whining noise in your truck be caused by a warn or dirty 
speedometer cable?

Paul
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 7:45 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck


  Does not seem to change with road speed.
  Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
  we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
  gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
  in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
  at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
  the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
  changed but it was full.
  Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
  it should be. We changed the temp sencer and the lead wire going to the
  sencer. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
  a whire direct from the sencer to the gage. Any other sugjestions?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Max Robinson
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:36 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  This sounds like car talk. Does the pitch of the whine change as the speed
  of the truck changes?

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net 
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com 

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  

  - Original Message -
  From: "Robert J. Moore" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   >
  To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  >
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:39 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  >I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
  > around 20 to 50 MPH.
  > It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
  > compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
  > wheel and the back tires.
  >
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
  > [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  > Behalf Of NLG
  > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
  >
  > Is this whine present when the truck is in park (assuming it is an
  > automatic
  > transmission) and the engine is started? Or do you only hear the noise
  > when
  > traveling? When traveling and the excellerator is pressed down, do you
  > hear
  > the noise? Does the noise quit when the truck is coasting?
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Robert J. Moore
  > To: Blind Handyman
  > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:17
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
  >
  > My little S10 has started to make a whining noise.
  > It is not coming from the engine compartment it is coming from underneath.
  > I
  > am not sure if it is related to the transmition or the rear en. Some one I
  > know had mentioned the u joints but it does not click, clunk, chatter,
  > grind or any of that. It just makes a high pitch whine and alternates
  > between two frequencies. Kind of like a siren but not that loud.
  > Also it does not seem to be affecting the performance as far as I can
  > tell.
  > But then again I am not controlling the accelerator.
  > Any ideas?
  >
  > I know I need to find out what the problem is but I am not overly
  > concerned
  > about a sudden failure real soon. I had a GMC van that did this for over 2
  > years.
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  > List 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Michael Baldwin]

if your temp gauge is integrated in to your instrument cluster, you won't be
able to connect a wire directly to it.  The signal is usually sent from the
temp sensor to the computer, then sent off to the temp gauge in the dash,
unless you have multiple temp sensors, which is possible.
 
 Does it continue to squeal after it has been driven a while?
If it happens during acceleration, I would check all vacuum lines going to
the transmission and transfer case, assuming the S10 is a 4 wheel drive.
You said it does not do it in park, is that only at idle when in park or
have you increased the RPM's while and park to see if it would squeal?
 
Michael
 
 From: Robert J. Moore 
Does not seem to change with road speed.
Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
changed but it was full.
Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
it should be. We changed the temp sensor and the lead wire going to the
sensor. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
a wire direct from the sensor to the gage. Any other suggestions?
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop airfilterinstallation

[William Stephan]

Thanks Dale, a trip to the lumber yard is in the offing, so I'll get to try 
this out pretty soon.  


-Original Message-
.From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.Sent: 2/7/07 11:19:28 PM
.To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop 
airfilterinstallation
.
.No, I just keep slipping heavy woolen lined leather mitts on and off, off 
.when measuring then back on to warm up.
.
.Usually they are off for sawing, or I might use a glove for the trigger hand 
.when it comes time for the cut.
.
.So long as you aren't handling metal too long you get a couple of minutes 
.even in forty below weather unless you are some sort of wimp but it is damn 
.inconvenient and slows you up a bit.
.
.I do have one entrance into the new basement but frequently I do end up 
.loading stuff through the house. Janet doesn't usually say too much about 
.it.
.
.Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.Skype DaleLeavens
.Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.
.
.- Original Message - 
.From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.To: 
.Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 1:29 PM
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air 
.filterinstallation
.
.
.> Dale, I've always been chicken of using a circ saw with gloves on, but 
.> maybe it's not something to be overly concerned with.Do you use 
.> "shooter's mits"
.> When you have to measure?  We have an entrance to the basement, but it has 
.> a very steep and irregular set of stairs down to the door.  There's no way 
.> you could get say a sheet of plywood into the basement through it, and for 
.> some reason, my wife disapproves when I bring lumber through the dining 
.> room.
.>
.> -Original Message-
.> .From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.> .Sent: 2/7/07 11:23:31 AM
.> .To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air 
.> filterinstallation
.> .
.> .I do a lot of cut-down on the back patio for that reason and to make 
.> timber
.> .more manageable indoors. Even in the winter, the mitts on and off but it 
.> is
.> .much easier to swing large sheets about.
.> .
.> .
.> .Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
.> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
.> .Skype DaleLeavens
.> .Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.> .
.> .
.> .- Original Message - 
.> .From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.> .To: 
.> .Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:34 PM
.> .Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air filter
.> .installation
.> .
.> .
.> .>I sort of figured that Dale, but thanks for taking the time to share
.> .> your experience.
.> .> I think too, that since the wood gets offloaded in the "garage", I use
.> .> the term very loosely, I might do most cutting out there when the
.> .> weather permits.  There isn't electrical service in the "garage", but
.> .> there's always the driveway, the workmate and extension cords.
.> .>
.> .>
.> .>
.> .> -Original Message-
.> .> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
.> .> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
.> .> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 5:09 PM
.> .> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
.> .> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air filter
.> .> installation
.> .>
.> .> The short answer is no.
.> .>
.> .> I went through the process of making a network with 2 inch tubing, I
.> .> started
.> .> with a kit from Lee Valley connected to a big mother of a vacuum only 
.> to
.> .>
.> .> discover that the filter plugged up very quickly. I then included a
.> .> cyclone
.> .> separator which only reduced the air flow. As I researched the Internet
.> .> I
.> .> discovered that many people travel down the same road to the same dead
.> .> end
.> .> as I had.
.> .>
.> .> An air filter helps to protect you from the very small airborne
.> .> particles
.> .> and a vacuum may well put a lot into the air. These do eventually 
.> settle
.> .> on
.> .> surfaces as do the larger particles which a dust collector tends to
.> .> gather
.> .> however you just don't get enough air flow from a vacuum for most
.> .> substantial collection. They can do fairly well connected directly to a
.> .> small sander or a router but you need a minimum of a 4 inch and 650
.> .> cubic
.> .> feet per minute system for something like a table saw and probably
.> .> something
.> .> closer to 1100 or more.
.> .>
.> .> You are better off sweeping up with your vacuum.
.> .>
.> .> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
.> .> [EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
.> .> Skype DaleLeavens
.> .> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.> .>
.> .> - Original Message - 
.> .> From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.> .>  net>
.> .> To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
.> .> yahoogroups.com>
.> .> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 5:40 PM
.> .

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Robert J. Moore]

There must be more than one temp sencer because as I said When the mechanic
hooked it up to his scanner, it read perfect even with the tenp sending unit
unplugged.
The instrument panel is analog not digital but I am wondering, is there a
printed circuit board behind there?
As for the wining noise it only happens when it is cold and quits when it
gets warmed up. It is not a 4-wheel drive.
I am absolutely convinced that it has nothing to do with the engine.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:44 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

if your temp gauge is integrated in to your instrument cluster, you won't be
able to connect a wire directly to it. The signal is usually sent from the
temp sensor to the computer, then sent off to the temp gauge in the dash,
unless you have multiple temp sensors, which is possible.

Does it continue to squeal after it has been driven a while?
If it happens during acceleration, I would check all vacuum lines going to
the transmission and transfer case, assuming the S10 is a 4 wheel drive.
You said it does not do it in park, is that only at idle when in park or
have you increased the RPM's while and park to see if it would squeal?

Michael

From: Robert J. Moore
Does not seem to change with road speed.
Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
changed but it was full.
Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
it should be. We changed the temp sensor and the lead wire going to the
sensor. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
a wire direct from the sensor to the gage. Any other suggestions?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Robert J. Moore]

No Having lived in Minnesota all my life and having been around mostly very
high mileage cars I have become familiar with that sound and that sound has
more of a groul and not a wine.
Thanks for all of you guys sugjestions. I think what I am going to do is
have the transmition fluid and filter replaced and let my wife   drive the
wheels off it.
With it's age and milage it is not worth getting to deep into.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Paul Franklin
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:15 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

Robert, Could the whining noise in your truck be caused by a warn or dirty
speedometer cable?

Paul
- Original Message -
From: Robert J. Moore
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

Does not seem to change with road speed.
Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
changed but it was full.
Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
it should be. We changed the temp sencer and the lead wire going to the
sencer. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
a whire direct from the sencer to the gage. Any other sugjestions?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]On
Behalf Of Max Robinson
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

This sounds like car talk. Does the pitch of the whine change as the speed
of the truck changes?

Regards.

Max. K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 


Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net

< http://www.funwithtransistors.net  >
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net 
< http://www.funwithtubes.net  >
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http://www.maxsmusicplace.com  >

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
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- Original Message -
From: "Robert J. Moore" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 >
To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 

>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

>I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
> around 20 to 50 MPH.
> It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
> compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
> wheel and the back tires.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com


> [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com

 ]On
> Behalf Of NLG
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 

> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
>
> Is this whine present when the truck is in park (assuming it is an
> automatic
> transmission) and the engine is started? Or do you only hear the noise
> when
> traveling? When traveling and the excellerator is pressed down, do you
> hear
> the noise? Does the noise quit when the truck is coasting?
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Robert J. Moore
> To: Blind Handyman
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:17
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
>
> My little S10 has started to make a whining noise.
> It is not coming from the engine compartment it is coming from underneath.
> I
> am not sure if it is related to the transmition or the rear en. Some one I
> know had mentioned the u joints but it does not click, clunk, chatter,
> grind or any of that. It just makes a high pitch whine and alternates
> between two frequencies. Kind of like a siren but not that loud.
> Also it does

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Mickey Fixsen]

  If I remember correctly, these GM vehicles use 2 coolant sensors.  One is for 
the engine management computer and the other one is for the temp gauge.  I 
believe the computer temp sensor has a 2 wire Weatherpac connector and the 
gauge has a 1 wire sensor.  You must be very careful that the gauge sensor is 
installed correctly.  It must be able to ground correctly to the engine.  Do 
Not use teflon tape or teflon thread sealant on the threads of this sensor.  I 
usually use a bit of anti-sieze compound on the threads and screw it in 
snuggly.  The antisieze compound has metal in it and is conductive.  Also, make 
sure the electrical connections are clean and make good contact.  

Good luck.

- Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:43 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck


  if your temp gauge is integrated in to your instrument cluster, you won't be
  able to connect a wire directly to it. The signal is usually sent from the
  temp sensor to the computer, then sent off to the temp gauge in the dash,
  unless you have multiple temp sensors, which is possible.

  Does it continue to squeal after it has been driven a while?
  If it happens during acceleration, I would check all vacuum lines going to
  the transmission and transfer case, assuming the S10 is a 4 wheel drive.
  You said it does not do it in park, is that only at idle when in park or
  have you increased the RPM's while and park to see if it would squeal?

  Michael

  From: Robert J. Moore 
  Does not seem to change with road speed.
  Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
  we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
  gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
  in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
  at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
  the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
  changed but it was full.
  Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
  it should be. We changed the temp sensor and the lead wire going to the
  sensor. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
  a wire direct from the sensor to the gage. Any other suggestions?



  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


--


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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3:33 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Michael Baldwin]

I am about 99% sure there is a printed circuit board running your instrument
cluster.  the only thing that won't run off the circuit board is your
speedometer.
 
If you have a good pair of jack stands, I would jack the rear of the S10 up,
and use the jack stands to hold it up so the wheels are off the ground.
Block the front wheels well.  have your wife start it up and place it in
drive, and slowly start to accelerate.  When it starts to wine, you can
crawl underneath and try to find the wine, just be careful of the exhaust
pipe, and spinning driveshaft.  This would be much safer if it wined while
accelerating in park.  
Michael
 
  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert J. Moore
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:33
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck



There must be more than one temp sencer because as I said When the mechanic
hooked it up to his scanner, it read perfect even with the tenp sending unit
unplugged.
The instrument panel is analog not digital but I am wondering, is there a
printed circuit board behind there?
As for the wining noise it only happens when it is cold and quits when it
gets warmed up. It is not a 4-wheel drive.
I am absolutely convinced that it has nothing to do with the engine.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:44 AM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

if your temp gauge is integrated in to your instrument cluster, you won't be
able to connect a wire directly to it. The signal is usually sent from the
temp sensor to the computer, then sent off to the temp gauge in the dash,
unless you have multiple temp sensors, which is possible.

Does it continue to squeal after it has been driven a while?
If it happens during acceleration, I would check all vacuum lines going to
the transmission and transfer case, assuming the S10 is a 4 wheel drive.
You said it does not do it in park, is that only at idle when in park or
have you increased the RPM's while and park to see if it would squeal?

Michael

From: Robert J. Moore
Does not seem to change with road speed.
Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
changed but it was full.
Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
it should be. We changed the temp sensor and the lead wire going to the
sensor. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
a wire direct from the sensor to the gage. Any other suggestions?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re:(carrying wood) [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop airfilterinstallation

[Lenny McHugh]

Bill,
Although I have a small basement entrance, it is sometimes easier through 
the house. The first time I said to Karen " help me so that I don't bump 
anything". She didn't say anything and helped. Now we park on the street in 
front of the house and when I bring home some wood she helps so that I don't 
bump the car or worse the neighbor's car.
Along the same lines I am not allowed to cut grass or shovel snow.
The last time I cut the grass I mowed her flowers, not a good thing! and 
even before my cardiologist  restricted me Karen did. During one blizzard I 
accidently hit the front of the van with the shovel, worse than mowing 
flowers!!
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

- Original Message - 
From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop 
airfilterinstallation



Thanks Dale, a trip to the lumber yard is in the offing, so I'll get to try 
this out pretty soon.


-Original Message-
.From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.Sent: 2/7/07 11:19:28 PM
.To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop 
airfilterinstallation
.
.No, I just keep slipping heavy woolen lined leather mitts on and off, off
.when measuring then back on to warm up.
.
.Usually they are off for sawing, or I might use a glove for the trigger 
hand
.when it comes time for the cut.
.
.So long as you aren't handling metal too long you get a couple of minutes
.even in forty below weather unless you are some sort of wimp but it is damn
.inconvenient and slows you up a bit.
.
.I do have one entrance into the new basement but frequently I do end up
.loading stuff through the house. Janet doesn't usually say too much about
.it.
.
.Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.Skype DaleLeavens
.Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.
.
.- Original Message - 
.From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.To: 
.Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 1:29 PM
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air
.filterinstallation
.
.
.> Dale, I've always been chicken of using a circ saw with gloves on, but
.> maybe it's not something to be overly concerned with.Do you use
.> "shooter's mits"
.> When you have to measure?  We have an entrance to the basement, but it 
has
.> a very steep and irregular set of stairs down to the door.  There's no 
way
.> you could get say a sheet of plywood into the basement through it, and 
for
.> some reason, my wife disapproves when I bring lumber through the dining
.> room.
.>
.> -Original Message-
.> .From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.> .Sent: 2/7/07 11:23:31 AM
.> .To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air
.> filterinstallation
.> .
.> .I do a lot of cut-down on the back patio for that reason and to make
.> timber
.> .more manageable indoors. Even in the winter, the mitts on and off but it
.> is
.> .much easier to swing large sheets about.
.> .
.> .
.> .Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
.> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
.> .Skype DaleLeavens
.> .Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.> .
.> .
.> .- Original Message - 
.> .From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.> .To: 
.> .Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:34 PM
.> .Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air filter
.> .installation
.> .
.> .
.> .>I sort of figured that Dale, but thanks for taking the time to share
.> .> your experience.
.> .> I think too, that since the wood gets offloaded in the "garage", I use
.> .> the term very loosely, I might do most cutting out there when the
.> .> weather permits.  There isn't electrical service in the "garage", but
.> .> there's always the driveway, the workmate and extension cords.
.> .>
.> .>
.> .>
.> .> -Original Message-
.> .> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
.> .> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
.> .> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 5:09 PM
.> .> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
.> .> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air filter
.> .> installation
.> .>
.> .> The short answer is no.
.> .>
.> .> I went through the process of making a network with 2 inch tubing, I
.> .> started
.> .> with a kit from Lee Valley connected to a big mother of a vacuum only
.> to
.> .>
.> .> discover that the filter plugged up very quickly. I then included a
.> .> cyclone
.> .> separator which only reduced the air flow. As I researched the 
Internet
.> .> I
.> .> discovered that many people travel down the same road to the same dead
.> .> end
.> .> as I had.
.> .>
.> .> An air filter helps to protect you from the very small airborne
.> .> particles
.> .> and a vacuum may well put a lot into the air. These do eventually
.> settle
.> .> on
.> .> surfaces as do the larger particles which a dust collector tends to
.>

[BlindHandyMan] Getting out of cutting the lawn.

[Dan Rossi]

Lenny wrote:

> Along the same lines I am not allowed to cut grass or shovel snow.
> The last time I cut the grass I mowed her flowers, not a good thing! and

Lenny, Brilliant!  I will keep that in mind.  Mow down the flowers to get 
out of cutting the grass.  Did you also throw something red in with her 
whites while doing the laundry?  *GRIN*

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Getting out of cutting the lawn.

[tunecollector]

Well, I burnt the food, shrunk the clothes, knocked over the trashcans,
squashed the dog poop, flooded the plants, dusted the lamps onto the floor,
and streaked the windows.  Now I got it made.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:37 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Getting out of cutting the lawn.

Lenny wrote:

> Along the same lines I am not allowed to cut grass or shovel snow.
> The last time I cut the grass I mowed her flowers, not a good thing! and

Lenny, Brilliant! I will keep that in mind. Mow down the flowers to get 
out of cutting the grass. Did you also throw something red in with her 
whites while doing the laundry? *GRIN*

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

__ NOD32 2045 (20070208) Information __

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Mickey Fixsen]

Your whine could simply be the pump in the transmission.  They have a tendency 
to be much more noticeable when cold.  With your other posts, you probably do 
need to service the transmission fluid and filter.  You might want to add a 
bottle of some stuff called "Lube Guard" to the transmission, when you refill 
it with fluid.  "Lube Guard" is a very strong trans fluid lube enhancer and 
will really improve the effectiveness of how the fluid works in your 
transmission.  It is a bit expensive at $8 - $10, but is worth the price.

Good Luck.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:41 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck


  No Having lived in Minnesota all my life and having been around mostly very
  high mileage cars I have become familiar with that sound and that sound has
  more of a groul and not a wine.
  Thanks for all of you guys sugjestions. I think what I am going to do is
  have the transmition fluid and filter replaced and let my wife drive the
  wheels off it.
  With it's age and milage it is not worth getting to deep into.
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Paul Franklin
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:15 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  Robert, Could the whining noise in your truck be caused by a warn or dirty
  speedometer cable?

  Paul
  - Original Message -
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 7:45 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  Does not seem to change with road speed.
  Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
  we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
  gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
  in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
  at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
  the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
  changed but it was full.
  Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
  it should be. We changed the temp sencer and the lead wire going to the
  sencer. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
  a whire direct from the sencer to the gage. Any other sugjestions?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  Behalf Of Max Robinson
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:36 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  This sounds like car talk. Does the pitch of the whine change as the speed
  of the truck changes?

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  
  < http://www.funwithtransistors.net  >
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net 
  < http://www.funwithtubes.net  >
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com  <
  http://www.maxsmusicplace.com  >

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  

  - Original Message -
  From: "Robert J. Moore" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   >
  To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  >
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:39 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  >I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
  > around 20 to 50 MPH.
  > It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
  > compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
  > wheel and the back tires.
  >
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
  
  > [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
   ]On
  > Behalf Of NLG
  > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Getting out of cutting the lawn.

[William Stephan]

Really, the snow shovel trick is positively brilliant. Besides, women are, I've 
heard, better 
suited anatomically to activities like snow shoveling than are men.



-Original Message-
.From: "Dan Rossi"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.Sent: 2/8/07 12:37:28 PM
.To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Getting out of cutting the lawn.
.
.Lenny wrote:
.
.> Along the same lines I am not allowed to cut grass or shovel snow.
.> The last time I cut the grass I mowed her flowers, not a good thing! and
.
.Lenny, Brilliant!  I will keep that in mind.  Mow down the flowers to get 
.out of cutting the grass.  Did you also throw something red in with her 
.whites while doing the laundry?  *GRIN*
.
.  -- 
.Blue skies.
.Dan Rossi
.Carnegie Mellon University.
.E-Mail:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.Tel:   (412) 268-9081



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] FW: Canadian Home Workshop Newsletter - February 2007

[Boyce, Ray]

 



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Thursday, 8 February 2007 14:45
To: Boyce, Ray
Subject: Canadian Home Workshop Newsletter - February 2007


Experiencing difficulties? Try our web based version at 
http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/newsletter/home.html
  


 


COVER
  LOGO
  
THE DO-IT-YOURSELF MAGAZINE 
Canadian Home Workshop Newsletter - February 2007 


  PROJECTS
  
 
D-I-Y
  
 
QUICKFIX
 
 
TOOLBOX
  
 
TOOLS
  
 
FORUMS
  



See it now on our web site: 
diy
  
diy
  Try these indoor and outdoor winter projects to keep the
cold away: 
- Ice Rink - a Canadian Thing
 
- Cold Frame - an Early Start on Spring
  
- Saws to Help You Maintain a Woodpile
  
- Curl Up with a good DIY Book
  
- Install an In-pipe Heating System
  
- Garage Woodworking 101
   


Buy Canadian Home Workshop Show Tickets Online: 

pic
 buy show tickets today
 Are you planning to come to the Canadian Home Workshop
Show
 ? You'll want to check out the woodworking pro seminars,
celebrity speakers, great deals on tools, and workshops where the whole
family can build and take home a project. The show runs March 2 to 4

[BlindHandyMan] Backyard Planters Big and Small

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Backyard Planters: Big & Small
 Planters or organized beds with planter borders can not only provide
mowing
definition, but contain the flowers and hopefully keep out weeds that
may grow into them from surrounding areas. Backyard planters can be big
or small,
permanent or portable.

The simplest planters consist of edging for flower or vegetable beds. In
the past, many used recycled railroad ties for this, and they still add
a distinctive
rustic appeal to garden beds. In recent years, however, pressure-treated
landscaping timbers have become increasingly popular. These are also
very easy
to use to create bed edges, or even to build up permanent planters.
Railroad ties usually have enough weight to stay in place when used in a
single layer
as an edging material. Landscaping timbers are usually smaller and they
can be shifted by the weight of the soil in the planter. Even railroad
timbers
can shift in time. One solution is to bore holes down through the
timbers or ties and drive 12-inch long sections of 3/8-inch concrete
reinforcing rod
down through the wood and into the ground. Make sure you set the ends of
the rods below the wood surface so no rough metal edges protrude.

Regardless of using recycled railroad ties or the more modern
landscaping ties, one method of keeping the ties in place is to
counterbore holes through
their tops.


Then drive sections of reinforcing bar down through the holes and into
the ground.


Joints can be further strengthened by fastening with brass deck screws.

In many instances landscaping timbers or ties are also stacked on top of
each other to create deeper planters or beds. The same fastening
technique can
be used. You may prefer to use 4- to 6-inch-long, 3/8-inch lag screws to
bolt landscape timbers together. The corners may be joined with butt
joints, overlap
log-cabin style, or mitered and anchored with lag screws. You can also
use long sections of reinforcing bars that are cut to the correct height
and driven
into the ground beneath the planter.


Another common and very attractive permanent bed or edging is stone.
Stone can be dry laid or mortared in place to create all sorts of
planter designs.

Portable planters offer the opportunity to place flowers in any location
you desire. Any number of manufactured pots and planters are available
for this
use. You can even recycle used items into planters. I've seen just about
everything you can imagine turned into planters, including an old
cast-iron bathtub
and even an old commode. The latter didn't look especially attractive,
but I'm sure the owner had something whimsical in mind. Rusty old
wheelbarrows,
metal watering cans, toy wagons and other antiques can be recycled into
planters.

You can also make up your own wooden planters. If assembling wooden
planters, use a long-lasting wood that doesn't rot very quickly because
it will be constantly
exposed to moisture. Western white cedar is one good wood that can be
used for these projects. It's also readily available at most lumber
dealers because
it's often used as roof decking. Pressure-treated wood is another
excellent choice; 5/4-inch decking boards make excellent planter
materials. They're easy
to work with, and you can use scraps from finishing a deck to build
planters that complement the deck.

The planter shown in Figure 1 is very easy to make. Although the design
is a basic square, you can vary the dimensions to make rectangular short
boxes,
large and deep patio boxes, and even tall planter boxes with a false
bottom to add variety to your backyard deck or patio.


First step is to cut all of the side pieces to length. Then rip the top
and bottom side cleats to width. Lay out the pieces for one side on a
flat surface.
Measure the width and cut a bottom and top side cleat to length. Locate
the top cleat flush with the top edge of the side pieces. Fasten in
place with
self-starting brass wood deck screws through the cleat into the side
pieces. Locate the bottom side cleat with its bottom edge flush with the
bottom edges
of the side pieces and fasten in place. Repeat for the opposite side.


Screw the side cleats to the side pieces.


Position the bottom and then assemble the sides.

Lay out the side pieces for a joining side. Cut the bottom side cleat to
length. Note that the cleat is shorter the thickness of the other two
bottom cleats
as well as the side pieces. This allows the first two assembled sides to
overlap the next two. Center the cleat in place and fasten it to the
side pieces.
Repeat for the opposite side. Fasten the four side assemblies together
with brass screws. Cut a pressure-treated bottom from plywood, or use
pieces of
deck board cut to length and ripped to fit. Bore drain holes in the
bottom then fit the bottom down in place over the bottom cleats. Cut the
top cleats
to fit between the existing top cleats and fasten to the side pieces.


One unusual portable planter I concocted last summer was created using
landscaping timbers. This allowed the 

[BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Everyone
Big Help for Hot Water

Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty
years, largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside
the United
States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural
gas and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost
consumers
more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
percent - think tankless water heaters.

Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only
heat water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the
water hot
all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour.
Heat in the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe
constantly. Tank water
heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
years, depending
on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand
have a life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat
exchanger
from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).


A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
comes into
play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy
savings, are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an
endless supply of
hot water.

Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
payback period
will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot
water used, the faster the payback.

Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
family. And
yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water
heater.

The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water
heaters can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption,
this may not be
possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point
of using
all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than
you presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out
of hot
water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can
now run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.

A Closer Look

In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP)
tankless water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an
entire two-bath
home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
optimum
efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the
home, as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or
faucet.
Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater
will not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water
heater
is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
water to begin flowing from the tap.

Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a
number of
other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines
the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming
water to
the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically
fired up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to
the desired
temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger.  The end result is
an endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the
burner is
turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.

We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters
currently in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water
Heater, the Rinnai
Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of
the line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for
the average
or large home. While the Takagi and Rinnai heaters can only be purchased
and installed by a licensed installer, the Bosch AquaStar is available
at home
centers and can be installed by a homeowner.

Installing a tankless water heater in new construction is easier than
installing in a remodel. Part of the reason for this is that because
gas-fired tankless
water heaters are capable of generating a great amount of Btu's (up to
195,000 Btu's on start-up) an adequate supply of gas must be available
to the unit.
Gas piping must therefore be sized properly. A gas shut-off valve must
be installed below the tankless hot water heater so the unit can be
serviced if
required.

Generally speaking, 3/4-inch black iron pipe can be run up to about 20
feet of leng

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press]

Aloha,
Do you think that these will work on propane? We are watching our 
waterheater, thinking that it may be getting old.
Betsy
At 10:57 AM 2/8/2007, you wrote:

>Hi Everyone
>Big Help for Hot Water
>
>Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty
>years, largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside
>the United
>States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural
>gas and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost
>consumers
>more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
>percent - think tankless water heaters.
>
>Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only
>heat water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the
>water hot
>all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour.
>Heat in the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe
>constantly. Tank water
>heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
>American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
>years, depending
>on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand
>have a life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat
>exchanger
>from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
>
>A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
>expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
>comes into
>play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy
>savings, are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an
>endless supply of
>hot water.
>
>Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
>technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
>payback period
>will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot
>water used, the faster the payback.
>
>Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
>simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
>family. And
>yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water
>heater.
>
>The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water
>heaters can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption,
>this may not be
>possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
>daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point
>of using
>all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than
>you presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out
>of hot
>water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can
>now run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
>
>A Closer Look
>
>In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP)
>tankless water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an
>entire two-bath
>home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
>point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
>optimum
>efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the
>home, as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or
>faucet.
>Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater
>will not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water
>heater
>is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
>water to begin flowing from the tap.
>
>Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
>sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a
>number of
>other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines
>the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming
>water to
>the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically
>fired up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to
>the desired
>temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger. The end result is
>an endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the
>burner is
>turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.
>
>We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters
>currently in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water
>Heater, the Rinnai
>Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of
>the line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for
>the average
>or large home. While the Takagi and Rinnai heaters can only be purchased
>and installed by a licensed installer, the Bosch AquaStar is available
>at home
>centers and can be installed by a homeowner.
>
>Installing a tankless water heater in new construction is easier than
>installing in a remodel. Part of the reason for this is that because
>gas-fired tankless
>water heaters are capable of generating a great amount of Btu's (up to
>195,000 Btu's on start-up) an adequate supply of gas must be a

[BlindHandyMan] RE: gas water heaters

[Lenny McHugh]

most gas appliances have a conversion kit.
I just replaced my gas unit and considered one but elected not because of 
some major plumbing rerouting.
I wish I knew what is blowing out the tank models.  We have been living here 
for a little over 32 years and this is our tenth unit.   I have replaced 
pressure reducing valves.
Let's see we first had 2 82 gallon electric, then 3 52 gallon electric units 
and this is our fifth 40 gallon natural gas unit.
We keep them set for about 120 F.
We are on city water no one can explain why we seem to hold the water heater 
record.
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/
- Original Message - 
From: "Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


Aloha,
Do you think that these will work on propane? We are watching our
waterheater, thinking that it may be getting old.
Betsy
At 10:57 AM 2/8/2007, you wrote:

>Hi Everyone
>Big Help for Hot Water
>
>Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty
>years, largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside
>the United
>States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural
>gas and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost
>consumers
>more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
>percent - think tankless water heaters.
>
>Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only
>heat water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the
>water hot
>all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour.
>Heat in the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe
>constantly. Tank water
>heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
>American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
>years, depending
>on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand
>have a life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat
>exchanger
>from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
>
>A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
>expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
>comes into
>play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy
>savings, are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an
>endless supply of
>hot water.
>
>Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
>technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
>payback period
>will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot
>water used, the faster the payback.
>
>Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
>simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
>family. And
>yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water
>heater.
>
>The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water
>heaters can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption,
>this may not be
>possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
>daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point
>of using
>all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than
>you presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out
>of hot
>water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can
>now run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
>
>A Closer Look
>
>In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP)
>tankless water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an
>entire two-bath
>home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
>point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
>optimum
>efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the
>home, as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or
>faucet.
>Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater
>will not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water
>heater
>is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
>water to begin flowing from the tap.
>
>Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
>sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a
>number of
>other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines
>the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming
>water to
>the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically
>fired up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to
>the desired
>temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger. The end result is
>an endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the
>burner is
>turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.
>
>We will look at thre

Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole shop air filter installation

[carl]

gud it sounds a  nice pice of kit
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 4:05 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] whole shop air filter installation


  Hi.

  I just recently bought a Delta 50-875 whole shop air filter for my shop. It 
moves a pretty large amount of air and will filter down to 1 micron. I've been 
wanting to install one of these air filters for quite some time and got a 
pretty good deal on this one. Unfortunately, the place where I bought it is 
going out of business. It is a supply house for contractors and us who 
appreciate quality tools and supplies. This store was here for about 30 years 
and no other business in the area carries the types of things that they sold. I 
will truly miss them.

  The unit is 24" x 30" x 12" and weighs almost 60 pounds. It is designed to 
either set on a bench, or be mounted to the ceiling. Since shop space is at a 
premium, I opted to mount it to the ceiling. I have a 24 by 40 foot fully 
finished shop and there is a 2 foot by 3 foot access scuttle hole into the 
attic space, located in the center of the shop ceiling. I decided that the best 
place for the filter was right beside the scuttle hole, due to the ability to 
work inside the attic at this opening.

  The filter housing has four eye bolts on the top of it that can be attached 
to some sort of hangers on the ceiling for mounting. the center spacing on the 
eye bolts is 18" x 22 1/2". I needed to mount it as close to the ceiling as 
possible since I have 8 foot ceilings. The 22 1/2" dimension of the eye bolt 
spacing is perfect for me since that is the distance between faces of the roof 
trusses which are on 24" centers. I bought a length of chain that I would cut 
to length and mount to the bottom cord of the trusses and hang down throu holes 
in the 5/8" drywall ceiling to then attach to the eye bolts. I wanted the 
chains to attach to the center of the side faces of the bottom chord of the 
trusses. The dimension from the center of the side faces of the bottom chord of 
the trusses to the underside of the drywall ceiling is2 3/8" and I wanted a 
little more than 1 full link of the chain to hang clear of the underside of the 
ceiling for clearance to attach the eye bolts on the unit. I determined that I 
needed 4 chains 5 links long to accomplish this. I cut the 4 pieces of chain 
and then moved to the attic installation of these chains.

  I wanted the lag bolts that I would use to attach the chains to the trusses 
to screw through the exact center of the side faces of the bottom chord of the 
trusses, which is 3 1/2" and I needed all 4 holes to be in the exact same 
height up from the drywall on the trusses. Instead of trying to do lots of 
measuring, scribing and punching hole locations, I made a simple jig. I took a 
scrap of 1/8" hardboard and cut a piece 3" by 3 1/2". I scribed a line on one 
face of the hardboard parallel to the 3 1/2" edge and in the center of the 3" 
dimension. I then drilled a hole in the exact center of this scribed line with 
a 11/64" drill bit and put a small notch on one edge of the hardboard at the 
scribed line. This notch will designate the top of the measuring jig.

  Now to the attic. Standing on a ladder and working through the attic access 
hole, I first had to move all of the 12 inch deep blown in cellulose insulation 
from the area between the 2 trusses next to the access hole and where I would 
hang the unit. I took a small nail and lightly installed it in the top edge 
corner of the bottom chord of a truss by the access hole where I wanted to 
install one of the chains. I then used my trusty Rotomatic and measured and 
installed another small nail 18" inches from the first nail on the same truss. 
Then I took a framing square and by butting it against one of the installed 
nails and the long side lying across the tops of the truss chords and the short 
edge parallel to the first truss with the nails, I was able to install location 
nails in the second truss at the appropriate locations. Now I took a drill with 
the 11/64" drill bit and the jig and drilled the four holes for the lag screws 
to hang the chains on. I simply held the hardboard jig against the side of the 
truss with the notch up and aligned with a nail that I had lightly driven in 
the top edge corner at an angle. The nails sat in the notch of the jig and made 
locating and drilling all 4 holes a breeze. Then I used a 1" hole saw to drill 
the 4 holes down through the ceiling drywall and directly below the holes 
already drilled in the trusses. All I had to do now was to poke each piece of 
chain down through the ceiling drywall and attach the top link to the trusses 
using a 2" long 1/4" lag screw and a flat washer. The chains hung below the 
ceiling about 1 1/2 links-- just perfect for hanging my air filter up tight to 
the ceiling. I stuffed some foam rubber weatherstripping material in the 
ceiling holes around the chai

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[carl]

is it autumatick or manual shift?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 7:39 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck


  I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
  around 20 to 50 MPH.
  It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
  compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
  wheel and the back tires.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  Is this whine present when the truck is in park (assuming it is an automatic
  transmission) and the engine is started? Or do you only hear the noise when
  traveling? When traveling and the excellerator is pressed down, do you hear
  the noise? Does the noise quit when the truck is coasting?

  - Original Message -
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:17
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  My little S10 has started to make a whining noise.
  It is not coming from the engine compartment it is coming from underneath. I
  am not sure if it is related to the transmition or the rear en. Some one I
  know had mentioned the u joints but it does not click, clunk, chatter,
  grind or any of that. It just makes a high pitch whine and alternates
  between two frequencies. Kind of like a siren but not that loud.
  Also it does not seem to be affecting the performance as far as I can tell.
  But then again I am not controlling the accelerator.
  Any ideas?

  I know I need to find out what the problem is but I am not overly concerned
  about a sudden failure real soon. I had a GMC van that did this for over 2
  years.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Dan Rossi]

Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic.  For example, not all of these 
heaters are pilotless.  The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
cheaper models that use a standing pilot.  I have even read about a unit 
that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
power hookup for that.

I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
these.  My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
around it.

Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Dale Leavens]

Absolutely.

LP they refer to is Liquid Propane.



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


> Aloha,
> Do you think that these will work on propane? We are watching our
> waterheater, thinking that it may be getting old.
> Betsy
> At 10:57 AM 2/8/2007, you wrote:
>
>>Hi Everyone
>>Big Help for Hot Water
>>
>>Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty
>>years, largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside
>>the United
>>States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural
>>gas and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost
>>consumers
>>more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
>>percent - think tankless water heaters.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only
>>heat water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the
>>water hot
>>all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour.
>>Heat in the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe
>>constantly. Tank water
>>heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
>>American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
>>years, depending
>>on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand
>>have a life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat
>>exchanger
>>from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
>>
>>A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
>>expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
>>comes into
>>play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy
>>savings, are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an
>>endless supply of
>>hot water.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
>>technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
>>payback period
>>will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot
>>water used, the faster the payback.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
>>simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
>>family. And
>>yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water
>>heater.
>>
>>The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water
>>heaters can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption,
>>this may not be
>>possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
>>daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point
>>of using
>>all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than
>>you presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out
>>of hot
>>water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can
>>now run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
>>
>>A Closer Look
>>
>>In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP)
>>tankless water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an
>>entire two-bath
>>home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
>>point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
>>optimum
>>efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the
>>home, as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or
>>faucet.
>>Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater
>>will not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water
>>heater
>>is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
>>water to begin flowing from the tap.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
>>sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a
>>number of
>>other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines
>>the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming
>>water to
>>the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically
>>fired up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to
>>the desired
>>temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger. The end result is
>>an endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the
>>burner is
>>turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.
>>
>>We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters
>>currently in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water
>>Heater, the Rinnai
>>Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of
>>the line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for
>>the average
>>or large 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] RE: gas water heaters

[K5TWZ]

My dad paid an extra $10 for a lifetime water heater.  That was 1955 and its 
still working.  Wish I could fine one of them.

Tony

- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:48 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] RE: gas water heaters


> most gas appliances have a conversion kit.
> I just replaced my gas unit and considered one but elected not because of
> some major plumbing rerouting.
> I wish I knew what is blowing out the tank models.  We have been living 
> here
> for a little over 32 years and this is our tenth unit.   I have replaced
> pressure reducing valves.
> Let's see we first had 2 82 gallon electric, then 3 52 gallon electric 
> units
> and this is our fifth 40 gallon natural gas unit.
> We keep them set for about 120 F.
> We are on city water no one can explain why we seem to hold the water 
> heater
> record.
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water
>
>
> Aloha,
> Do you think that these will work on propane? We are watching our
> waterheater, thinking that it may be getting old.
> Betsy
> At 10:57 AM 2/8/2007, you wrote:
>
>>Hi Everyone
>>Big Help for Hot Water
>>
>>Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty
>>years, largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside
>>the United
>>States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural
>>gas and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost
>>consumers
>>more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
>>percent - think tankless water heaters.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only
>>heat water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the
>>water hot
>>all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour.
>>Heat in the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe
>>constantly. Tank water
>>heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
>>American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
>>years, depending
>>on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand
>>have a life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat
>>exchanger
>>from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
>>
>>A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
>>expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
>>comes into
>>play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy
>>savings, are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an
>>endless supply of
>>hot water.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
>>technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
>>payback period
>>will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot
>>water used, the faster the payback.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
>>simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
>>family. And
>>yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water
>>heater.
>>
>>The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water
>>heaters can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption,
>>this may not be
>>possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
>>daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point
>>of using
>>all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than
>>you presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out
>>of hot
>>water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can
>>now run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
>>
>>A Closer Look
>>
>>In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP)
>>tankless water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an
>>entire two-bath
>>home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
>>point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
>>optimum
>>efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the
>>home, as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or
>>faucet.
>>Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater
>>will not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water
>>heater
>>is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
>>water to begin flowing from the tap.
>>
>>Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
>>sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a
>>number of
>>other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines
>>the amount of heat required to raise the t

[BlindHandyMan] raised bed gardening

[Robert J. Moore]

Raised beds also require more watering as the sun acts not only on the
surface but the sides too. Also, stay away from railroad ties for
constructing raised beds if you are planning to grow vegetables. the
chemicals used to preserve the ties are toxic. 
Many garden centres now sell very nice looking stackable retaining wall
blocks that are moulded or cut to look like natural stone. They cost a bit
more for sure, but the effect is quite nice.
888



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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RE: (carrying wood) [BlindHandyMan]

[Robert J. Moore]

Lenny
So do you still have to do dishes?
You might want to consider dropping a couple of plates and glasses every
once in a while.
LOL
One time my wife was backing the car out of the garage and got hung up on
the passenger side. After hearing crunch 3 times I told her to get out and I
would take care of it. I inspected the angle and how far out the car was and
figured out the trajectory and turned the wheels accordingly and backed it
right out.
You just have to be more creative in your approach of things then do sighted
people.
Regards
robert
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 11:16 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re:(carrying wood) [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop
airfilterinstallation

Bill,
Although I have a small basement entrance, it is sometimes easier through
the house. The first time I said to Karen " help me so that I don't bump
anything". She didn't say anything and helped. Now we park on the street in
front of the house and when I bring home some wood she helps so that I don't
bump the car or worse the neighbor's car.
Along the same lines I am not allowed to cut grass or shovel snow.
The last time I cut the grass I mowed her flowers, not a good thing! and
even before my cardiologist restricted me Karen did. During one blizzard I
accidently hit the front of the van with the shovel, worse than mowing
flowers!!
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/


- Original Message -
From: "William Stephan" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >
To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop
airfilterinstallation

Thanks Dale, a trip to the lumber yard is in the offing, so I'll get to try
this out pretty soon.

-Original Message-
.From: "Dale Leavens"< [EMAIL PROTECTED]  >
.Sent: 2/7/07 11:19:28 PM
.To: " blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 "< blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 >
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop
airfilterinstallation
.
.No, I just keep slipping heavy woolen lined leather mitts on and off, off
.when measuring then back on to warm up.
.
.Usually they are off for sawing, or I might use a glove for the trigger
hand
.when it comes time for the cut.
.
.So long as you aren't handling metal too long you get a couple of minutes
.even in forty below weather unless you are some sort of wimp but it is damn
.inconvenient and slows you up a bit.
.
.I do have one entrance into the new basement but frequently I do end up
.loading stuff through the house. Janet doesn't usually say too much about
.it.
.
.Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
.Skype DaleLeavens
.Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.
.
.- Original Message -
.From: "William Stephan" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >
.To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 >
.Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 1:29 PM
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air
.filterinstallation
.
.
.> Dale, I've always been chicken of using a circ saw with gloves on, but
.> maybe it's not something to be overly concerned with. Do you use
.> "shooter's mits"
.> When you have to measure? We have an entrance to the basement, but it
has
.> a very steep and irregular set of stairs down to the door. There's no
way
.> you could get say a sheet of plywood into the basement through it, and
for
.> some reason, my wife disapproves when I bring lumber through the dining
.> room.
.>
.> -Original Message-
.> .From: "Dale Leavens"< [EMAIL PROTECTED]  >
.> .Sent: 2/7/07 11:23:31 AM
.> .To: " blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 "< blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 >
.> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust collecting was shop air
.> filterinstallation
.> .
.> .I do a lot of cut-down on the back patio for that reason and to make
.> timber
.> .more manageable indoors. Even in the winter, the mitts on and off but it
.> is
.> .much easier to swing large sheets about.
.> .
.> .
.> .Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
.> . [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
.> .Skype DaleLeavens
.> .Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.> .
.> .
.> .- Original Message -
.> .From: "William Stephan" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >
.> .To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 >
.> .Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:34 PM
.> .Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] whole Dust coll

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Robert J. Moore]

Carl
It is an automatic

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of carl
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 3:56 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

is it autumatick or manual shift?
- Original Message -
From: Robert J. Moore
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 7:39 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
around 20 to 50 MPH.
It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
wheel and the back tires.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]On
Behalf Of NLG
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

Is this whine present when the truck is in park (assuming it is an automatic
transmission) and the engine is started? Or do you only hear the noise when
traveling? When traveling and the excellerator is pressed down, do you hear
the noise? Does the noise quit when the truck is coasting?

- Original Message -
From: Robert J. Moore
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:17
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

My little S10 has started to make a whining noise.
It is not coming from the engine compartment it is coming from underneath. I
am not sure if it is related to the transmition or the rear en. Some one I
know had mentioned the u joints but it does not click, clunk, chatter,
grind or any of that. It just makes a high pitch whine and alternates
between two frequencies. Kind of like a siren but not that loud.
Also it does not seem to be affecting the performance as far as I can tell.
But then again I am not controlling the accelerator.
Any ideas?

I know I need to find out what the problem is but I am not overly concerned
about a sudden failure real soon. I had a GMC van that did this for over 2
years.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[tunecollector]

I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
more corrosive on water pipes.  Then again, I may be thinking of those
instant hot water models.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
power hookup for that.

I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
around it.

Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

__ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[David Ferrin]

The main thing as I understand the animal is they can supply hot water for 
only a single use at a time.  So don't try running the dish washer and your 
laundry washer at the same time.  Other than that they do sound quite a good 
thing to me.
David Ferrin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article
is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic.  For example, not all of these
heaters are pilotless.  The three reviewed appear to be, but there are
cheaper models that use a standing pilot.  I have even read about a unit
that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a
power hookup for that.

I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't
think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of
these.  My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance
around it.

Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: (412) 268-9081



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[rj]

I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can say 
they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost was 
about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
  more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
  instant hot water models.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[tunecollector]

So were you able to run the washer and take a shower at the same time?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of rj
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:05 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can
say they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost
was about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
- Original Message - 
From: tunecollector 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>  
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
instant hot water models.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
power hookup for that.

I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
around it.

Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu>
<mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[rj]

It depends on the size of the unit and how far the water has to travel. In our 
old house, we could run any two outlets at any time without having a problem. 
This included the dishwasher, washer, and shower. If this tank we now have goes 
bad, I plan on replacing it with one of the waterless hot water unit. I did 
have a natural gas unit, and don't know how the electric unit stacks up.
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  The main thing as I understand the animal is they can supply hot water 
for 
  only a single use at a time. So don't try running the dish washer and your 
  laundry washer at the same time. Other than that they do sound quite a good 
  thing to me.
  David Ferrin
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Tom Fowle]

What's a "waterless hot water unit"?
sorry it's just too silly an idea not to ask! 
Not that I ever make smelling mis takes of coarse!
tom



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[tunecollector]

If your tankless water heater was gas, then the pilot light was always on?
If so, was there still a savings in your utility bill?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of rj
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:21 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

It depends on the size of the unit and how far the water has to travel. In
our old house, we could run any two outlets at any time without having a
problem. This included the dishwasher, washer, and shower. If this tank we
now have goes bad, I plan on replacing it with one of the waterless hot
water unit. I did have a natural gas unit, and don't know how the electric
unit stacks up.
- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrin 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>  
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

The main thing as I understand the animal is they can supply hot water for 
only a single use at a time. So don't try running the dish washer and your 
laundry washer at the same time. Other than that they do sound quite a good 
thing to me.
David Ferrin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dpf%40jaws-users.com> 
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> >
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article
is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these
heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are
cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit
that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a
power hookup for that.

I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't
think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of
these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance
around it.

Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

__ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[rj]

Yes, I had two of the tankless tanks over the years and both were the mid size 
model and everything from the unit was within thirty feet. Planning, once this 
new tanks gives out in our new house going back to the tankless.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  So were you able to run the washer and take a shower at the same time?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can
  say they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost
  was about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
  more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
  instant hot water models.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu>
  <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
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  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

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  http://www.eset.com



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] roto rule description

[R & S Enterprises]

I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of 
the operation of the roto rule.  I would like to talk with them via 
telephone.  If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best 
time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
thanks
Ron Yearns 




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[rj]

You are right, the water heater does have a Pilot light. I saved about $20 a 
month after replacing the old regular tank and the gas company did change the 
meter, thinking some thing was wrong. Why I didn't put one of the tankless in 
this house, I will never know.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:50 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  If your tankless water heater was gas, then the pilot light was always on?
  If so, was there still a savings in your utility bill?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:21 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  It depends on the size of the unit and how far the water has to travel. In
  our old house, we could run any two outlets at any time without having a
  problem. This included the dishwasher, washer, and shower. If this tank we
  now have goes bad, I plan on replacing it with one of the waterless hot
  water unit. I did have a natural gas unit, and don't know how the electric
  unit stacks up.
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  The main thing as I understand the animal is they can supply hot water for 
  only a single use at a time. So don't try running the dish washer and your 
  laundry washer at the same time. Other than that they do sound quite a good 
  thing to me.
  David Ferrin
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dpf%40jaws-users.com> 
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> >
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  >
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
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[BlindHandyMan] Joining Wood Made Simple

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Everyone
Do-It-Yourself: Joining Wood Made Simple

When doing wood working there are many instances in which solid wood
pieces are needed in widths wider than those that are available to make
a cabinet side
or a table top. Or, in the case of butcher blocks, wood pieces need to
be glued together to create thickness rather than width. In each
instance, smaller
pieces of wood must be joined to make wider pieces. Several tactics can
be used, depending on the desired end result of the piece you are
constructing.
Metal Fasteners
Simple wood shelves and "rough," or unfinished, projects can easily be
joined by using a number of metal fasteners. Corrugated fasteners are
ribbed metal
pieces with one sharpened end, and they are usually used for fastening
rough-framed projects where appearance is not important. They can also
be used for
edge-fastening stock, as well as on wide stock for some rough work. The
wood pieces are held tightly together and the fastener is started in one
piece
of the wood. Then, the fastener is started in the other piece and tapped
on alternate sides until it is driven in place. The fastener should
penetrate
to about half the wood's thickness. Corrugated fasteners should not be
positioned with the wood grain as they will split the wood, and they
should not
be used with hard woods. For proper holding power, drive corrugated
fasteners in from both sides of the stock, staggering them along
the joint line.
Chevrons are used in much the same way as corrugated fasteners. Chevrons
are designed to recess below the surface of the wood, and then they can
be covered
with wood putty. They are also available in an L-shape that gives a bit
more holding power on corner joints. "Skotch" fasteners are a flat piece
of metal
with sharp feet on both ends. These are simply driven down into the wood
to provide holding power. Teenuts are threaded metal nuts that are
actually driven
into the wood: A bolt hole is drilled first, and then the metal threaded
"nut," which has teeth on one side, is driven into place. Turning the
bolt from
the opposite side pulls the nut tightly in place, holding the two pieces
of wood together. A similar fastening device is the Rosan wood insert,
which is
threaded to receive a common stove bolt. The "Tite-Joint" is another
threaded-type fastener, but it is a bit more complicated. The Tite-Joint
also bolts
two pieces of wood together but, in this case, the bolt is built into
the fastener. Hanger bolts are used to fasten table legs in place. They
have a wood-screw
thread on one end and a bolt thread on the other. Hanger bolts can be
bolted in placed or turned into metal leg-holding plates. Dowel screws
are like hanger
bolts except they have wood screw threads on each end. Dowel screws are
installed by boring slightly under-sized holes and then turning the
screw threads
into both pieces. Metal corner braces can be used to brace a 90-degree
corner. They can also be used as a holding fastener for a leg.

Glue and Wood Fasteners
In many instances glue and wooden fasteners are used to join smaller
wood pieces to create a wide stock for things like wooden tabletops or
cabinet or furniture
sides, ends and even tops. While glue alone can be used, a stronger,
longer-lasting joint utilizes glue as well as some sort of wooden
fastener.

Tongue-and-Groove
One of the most common means of joining wood is with a tongue-and-groove
joint, in which a groove is cut on one piece of wood and a matching
tongue is cut
on another piece. When the job calls for several pieces of wood that
must be joined together, a tongue is cut on one side of the wood with a
groove on
the opposite side to permit insertion. Both cuts can be made using a
dado head on a radial-arm or table saw, or with a router or shaper. The
tongue should
be just slightly smaller than the groove to allow for a glue line all
around.

Biscuit Joinery
Another method of joining wood utilizes a plate or biscuit joiner and
small wooden discs. A plate or biscuit joiner is a portable power tool
that uses a
blade pushed into the wood stock to cut a disc-shaped slot in the
joining edges of the wood. Small wood "biscuits" are then glued into
these slots. Quality
cutters can be adjusted to cut slots to join wood in several different
joints, including edge-to-edge, butt, T, miter, flat miter and hinge.
The first step in this process is to align the wood pieces and mark
across the joint to locate the positions for the biscuits. Place the
workpiece on a
flat, smooth surface so the bottom of the plate cutter is flat with the
bottom of the work surface. Turn on the plate cutter, and push it into
the wood
stock to make the cuts. A stop block fastened to the bench behind the
workpiece will keep the workpiece from shifting or sliding during the
cutting operation.
Once all the pieces have slots cut for the biscuits, the pieces are then
glued together with the biscuits in the slots. The biscuits fit
semi-snug into
the slots, which allows for proper alignment of the wood

[BlindHandyMan] Dovetail Joints for Quality Construction

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Dovetail Joints for Quality Construction
Again this article has been written for a sighted person so take out of
it what you can.
Dovetail Joints
Dovetail joints are extremely strong and attractive joints, and are
traditionally used on boxes, chests, quality furniture and cabinet
drawers. Several
types of dovetail joints can be created including: through or open
dovetail; lapped or half-blind flush; half-blind rabbeted and
secret-miter dovetail.
The through dovetail joint exposes the dovetails on both sides of the
joint. These are commonly used where the joint is not seen, as on the
rear joints
of drawers. In some cases, this joint is used to show off the
workmanship of the dovetail joints. A lapped dovetail, also called a
half-blind dovetail,
shows only one side of the dovetail joint, the opposite edge overlapping
the dovetail. These can also be cut flush or rabbeted. This joint is
quite frequently
used to secure drawer fronts on quality construction. A double-lapped
dovetail conceals both of the dovetails. A secret-miter dovetail
conceals the dovetails
in a miter joint.

Regardless of the type of construction, the front and rear pieces are
called the pin pieces, and the sides are called the tail pieces. The
dovetails in
the pin pieces are called pins, and those in the tailpiece are called
tails.


Dovetails can be cut using hand tools or power tools. In either case,
cutting dovetails is precision woodworking, and this is especially so
when cutting
them by hand. Use only top-quality bench tools and make sure they are
sharp. For hand tools you1ll need a woodworking vise to hold the stock,
a thin bladed
dovetail or backed saw, woodworking chisels, a mallet, a marking gauge
and a dovetail gauge. The tools shown are high-quality tools available
from Woodcraft
Supply Company.

Dovetails With Hand Tools
The first step is to mark the thickness of each piece of wood on the
other with a marking gauge. Do not cut deeply into the wood with the
gauge. This will
be the bottom of the dovetail cuts. Then mark the cuts for the dovetails
on both sides of the stock and also on the end. This can be done with a
straight
edge, ruler and pencil, but a dovetail gauge makes the chore easier and
more precise. Once the dovetails are marked, mark X's on the wood
portions to be
cut away. This prevents confusion when you start removing material
between the dovetails.


Mark the depths of the dovetails using a marking gauge.


Use a square to mark the outer width of the dovetails on the edge of the
board.


The angle cuts of the dovetail are marked with a dovetail gauge.


Mark the waste areas to avoid confusion.

Place the work piece in a woodworking vise, angled so the saw can be
held upright. Then use the back saw to cut down to the lines marked by
the gauge. Cut
just on the outside waste side of the lines, and down exactly to the
depth marked.


Use a small back saw or dovetail saw to make the angled cuts.

Then use a very sharp chisel, the exact width of the inner line at the
gauge line, to chop the wood away between the cuts (shown at the top of
this article).
A smaller chisel can also be used for this, by repositioning it to make
the cut, but the cut won1t be as clean. Cut from both sides of the stock
to prevent
splintering.

Position the second piece over the first and mark the locations of the
dovetails on it. Then cut in the same manner. Finally, try-fit the joint
together
and use a very sharp chisel to slice away the sides of the cuts so the
joint fits snugly in place. Once the joints fit correctly, repeat the
operation
for the other corners of the box, drawer or case. Once all joints are
cut and you're sure they fit properly, apply woodworking glue and clamp
the assembly
together, making sure the assembly is square.


Half-blind or half-lap dovetails are a bit more complicated. The exposed
portion is cut in the same manner as the exposed dovetail joint, except
the dovetails
are not as deep as the thickness of the piece they are to be joined to.
This allows for a lap to cover the ends of the dovetails. Cut the
exposed
dovetail piece, position it on the non-exposed piece and mark the
dovetail locations. The blind dovetails have to be cut entirely with a
chisel. The first
step is to make the back cuts, then side cuts and finally the end cuts.
Try fitting the pieces together and shaving off pieces of wood until you
achieve
a nice, snug fit. To finish, glue and clamp.


Flush, half-blind dovetail joints are commonly used to attach flush
drawer fronts to the drawer sides.


Rabbeted, half-blind dovetail joints are also used on drawer fronts --
those with a 3/8-by-3/8-inch rabbeted lip.

A double lap dovetail is used to completely conceal the joint. In this
case the inside piece is cut using a chisel in the same manner as for
the half-lap.
Then a rabbet is cut on the edge of the outside stock. The inner edge is
marked for the dovetails and they are cut using a chisel. One of the
most interesting
joints is the secret miter 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Dan Rossi]

Dave,

The tankless heaters in Ray's post were some big-ass heaters, 185 thousand 
BTU, I forget the supply, but I think one of them was 340 gallons per 
hour.  They all said they could drive two showers.

Most of the units I've looked at do not have that kind of capacity.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Rob Monitor]

hi, I have a electric tankless water heater it's the smallest one they make. 
Got it at home depot it's just fine for me because I live alone now. But be 
sure that you have enough power to run it the one I have needs 80 amps for the 
two electric coils that are in it but I still save about $20 a month...
  - Original Message - 
  From: rj 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:49 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  Yes, I had two of the tankless tanks over the years and both were the mid 
size model and everything from the unit was within thirty feet. Planning, once 
this new tanks gives out in our new house going back to the tankless.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  So were you able to run the washer and take a shower at the same time?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can
  say they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost
  was about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
  more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
  instant hot water models.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu>
  <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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