Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rob where are you?

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, I'm haft way between the towns of Remer and Boy River. Which is about 100 
miles north of brainerd if you know where that is...
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 10:59 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rob where are you?


  Pardon this post but I was just wondering what part of the state you are in
  rob?
  I am also in Minnesota. I am out side of Rochester.
  Robert

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 9:49 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Yes, That is what I do with my omni which is the next step up from the ID
  MATE. Also I found that in the last update that a lot of garage type things
  are in the new data base.Things like starting fluid and stuff like that...
  ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message -
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Well as far as the topic of this product being on topic for the blind handy
  man. Hear are a couple of ideas.
  This could be used to mark things in the shop such as paints, varnish,
  stains, and other fluids that come in containers that may look similar but
  have different contants. Some times I can't tell the difference between
  motor oil and tranny fluid.
  Another use could be for marking wires such as plug wires or if you are
  working on a wire harness that has several wires that you need to keep track
  of and you can't see the colors, you could mark them with tags that the unit
  could read back to you once you have them marked.
  Any other thoughts?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  Behalf Of Richard Sherman
  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:39 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Hi,
  I hope this thread is not too far off topic.

  I have an ID Mate and is useful once it is set up. I did not know about the
  "scan and say" product which can be found at

  http://www.barcode-solutions.com/scanandsay.html
  
  < http://www.barcode-solutions.com/scanandsay.html
   >

  I really like what I have just read about this product.

  Rich
  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Fowle
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 4:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Well "Mates" now that you're all "ID'd"
  the ID Mate is a bar code reader with an attached box that records, on
  flash
  memory cards, whatever you want and relates it to each bar code you show
  it.

  So you can either read existing codes on products, or put lables
  they sell on stuff and record names instructions etc.
  for each and then identify them again.

  Originally sold for well over a thousand bucks.

  Probably being replaced with computer based systems for less that come
  with huge product databases like BarCodeSolutions "Scan and Say."

  Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] The new shop.

[Don]

Max,  you know what I always say, hell of a deal,  big smile,  glad to hear it. 
 You made the deal of deals on that one..  Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 10:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The new shop.


  Some of you may remember my posting that my wife Sue had said she wanted a 
  shop of her own for her craft work and mainly storage. Well, we made an 
  agreement that I will sell her my shop which is 10 by 16 feet and then I 
  will buy a 12 by 30 building which is the biggest one they make. It didn't 
  take me long to figure out that the 10 by 16 is too small to do anything but 
  work with hand tools. If I want tools such as a table saw, jointer and 
  lathe I need more room than that. The building is being built and should be 
  delivered in about a month. Stay tuned.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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[BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I use those terms differently than some of the postings. To me  a sabersaw is 
an older small hand held power tool with a short reciprocating blade about 3 
inches in length and 1/4-inch or so in width (attached at top to the tool but 
open and free at the other end) such as an economy class consumer-type hoobyist 
tool. Now I also have a newer and slightly larger hand held power tool model 
with a reciprocating blade which is actually labelled as a jigsaw but it 
operates to much greater tolerances and is a respectable woodworker's tool, but 
to me it is still a saber saw. 

To me, a jigsaw is not a hand held tool but a bench top tool with a longer 
reciprocating blade attached at both top and bottom of the blade. The blades 
give pretty good service before dulling. Saber saw and jigsaw blades break 
under stress as from turning too tight of a curve but they break only 
infrequently.

A scroll saw is a specialized tool with a very thin reciprocating blade with 
very little up and down movement designed usually for cutting fairly thin 
materials such as 1/4-inch thick plywood for crafts but also able to cut larger 
stock at a slower rate and nicely able to make extremely fine cuts of stacked 
veneers for marquetry work or delicate cut-outs from thin stock. I use a scroll 
saw to cut table aprons with pierced fretwork of grape or ivy vine patterns 
with leaves, monograms, etc. The blades dull ratherly quickly and break just as 
often. I never begin a scroll work job without a number of extra blades on hand 
and I change the blade just as soon as its easy cutting declines. The blade is 
easily detachable so that it can be threaded through drilled holes to give 
access to inside cuts. On a table apron I may have around a hundred such inside 
cuts so easy detachability and re-attaching is important.

The bandsaw has a blade which is a complete circle and the blade runs in an 
oval on two wheels usually. A few machines have three wheels so that the blade 
runs around the three wheels in a rounded triangular fashion. The bandsaw 
cannot be used to start an inside cut within the fixed or solid perimeter of a 
piece. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> well, then I say "be very careful".
> I love mine. The thinner the blade, and the corser the blade the better 
> for turning. But whew! it can start a canal on a fingertip.
> Of course for very straight, hahahahaha, cuts, one can use a blade without 
> many tangential burrs, and feel the side of the blade;. But I get the 
> feeling that my makita likes to run, so I dial it down at any sign of 
> necessity.
> 
> Clamped it to the side of my mom's open basement steps and ran a piece of 
> molding between the step and the blade, and surpised both of us with how 
> nicely it made the right size piece of trim.
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:
> 
> > YES YOU GOT IT...
> >  - Original Message -
> >  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:24 PM
> >  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line Drawing 
> Board.htm
> >
> >
> >  So is a jigsaw, and a sabersaw, and a scroll saw,
> >  the thing that looks like a foot log sewing machine with a saw blade
> >  instead of a needle on the end of a pistoning arm, all the same thing?
> >
> >  On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote:
> >
> >  > Hi Rob,
> >  >
> >  > I know what a scroll saw is and what it looks like, I've just never been
> >  > partial to putting my finger anywhere near a moving blade, jigsaw or
> >  > otherwise.
> >  >
> >  > I've heard horror stories of people getting their fingers too close to 
> > one
> >  > of those blades while chopping up meat at the local grocery store, and
> >  > people end up getting fingers along with the cuts of meat they buy.
> >  >
> >  > Like I said, I just get weary of my fingers going anywhere near a moving
> >  > blade.
> >  >
> >  > Oh, and by the way, I also had a hard time explaining what a scroll saw 
> > was
> >  > to a friend of mine here, and heck, if it wasn't just as difficult to
> >  > explain as nuclear fission, but I think I can explain nuclear fission a 
> > lot
> >  > easier than I could a scroll saw. Grin.
> >  >
> >  > Victor
> >  >
> >  >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw

[Don]

I agree, I think of a sabersaw the same way you do.  Does that say something  
about our age, or what?  Good post.  Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:09 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw


  I use those terms differently than some of the postings. To me a sabersaw is 
an older small hand held power tool with a short reciprocating blade about 3 
inches in length and 1/4-inch or so in width (attached at top to the tool but 
open and free at the other end) such as an economy class consumer-type hoobyist 
tool. Now I also have a newer and slightly larger hand held power tool model 
with a reciprocating blade which is actually labelled as a jigsaw but it 
operates to much greater tolerances and is a respectable woodworker's tool, but 
to me it is still a saber saw. 

  To me, a jigsaw is not a hand held tool but a bench top tool with a longer 
reciprocating blade attached at both top and bottom of the blade. The blades 
give pretty good service before dulling. Saber saw and jigsaw blades break 
under stress as from turning too tight of a curve but they break only 
infrequently.

  A scroll saw is a specialized tool with a very thin reciprocating blade with 
very little up and down movement designed usually for cutting fairly thin 
materials such as 1/4-inch thick plywood for crafts but also able to cut larger 
stock at a slower rate and nicely able to make extremely fine cuts of stacked 
veneers for marquetry work or delicate cut-outs from thin stock. I use a scroll 
saw to cut table aprons with pierced fretwork of grape or ivy vine patterns 
with leaves, monograms, etc. The blades dull ratherly quickly and break just as 
often. I never begin a scroll work job without a number of extra blades on hand 
and I change the blade just as soon as its easy cutting declines. The blade is 
easily detachable so that it can be threaded through drilled holes to give 
access to inside cuts. On a table apron I may have around a hundred such inside 
cuts so easy detachability and re-attaching is important.

  The bandsaw has a blade which is a complete circle and the blade runs in an 
oval on two wheels usually. A few machines have three wheels so that the blade 
runs around the three wheels in a rounded triangular fashion. The bandsaw 
cannot be used to start an inside cut within the fixed or solid perimeter of a 
piece. 

  --
  Larry Martin
  Woodworking for the Blind
  --joining the world of blind wood workers

  -- Original message --
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > well, then I say "be very careful".
  > I love mine. The thinner the blade, and the corser the blade the better 
  > for turning. But whew! it can start a canal on a fingertip.
  > Of course for very straight, hahahahaha, cuts, one can use a blade without 
  > many tangential burrs, and feel the side of the blade;. But I get the 
  > feeling that my makita likes to run, so I dial it down at any sign of 
  > necessity.
  > 
  > Clamped it to the side of my mom's open basement steps and ran a piece of 
  > molding between the step and the blade, and surpised both of us with how 
  > nicely it made the right size piece of trim.
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > On Fri, 20 Apr 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:
  > 
  > > YES YOU GOT IT...
  > > - Original Message -
  > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:24 PM
  > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line Drawing 
  > Board.htm
  > >
  > >
  > > So is a jigsaw, and a sabersaw, and a scroll saw,
  > > the thing that looks like a foot log sewing machine with a saw blade
  > > instead of a needle on the end of a pistoning arm, all the same thing?
  > >
  > > On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote:
  > >
  > > > Hi Rob,
  > > >
  > > > I know what a scroll saw is and what it looks like, I've just never been
  > > > partial to putting my finger anywhere near a moving blade, jigsaw or
  > > > otherwise.
  > > >
  > > > I've heard horror stories of people getting their fingers too close to 
one
  > > > of those blades while chopping up meat at the local grocery store, and
  > > > people end up getting fingers along with the cuts of meat they buy.
  > > >
  > > > Like I said, I just get weary of my fingers going anywhere near a moving
  > > > blade.
  > > >
  > > > Oh, and by the way, I also had a hard time explaining what a scroll saw 
was
  > > > to a friend of mine here, and heck, if it wasn't just as difficult to
  > > > explain as nuclear fission, but I think I can explain nuclear fission a 
lot
  > > > easier than I could a scroll saw. Grin.
  > > >
  > > > Victor
  > > >
  > > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this

[BlindHandyMan] 202 Buick Century Trac Off light?

[NLG]

Just to let those who are interested know.  The problem with the illuminated
trac off light is solved.  I replaced the hub assembly with yet another one
and everything is working as it should now.  Must have been a problem with
the sensor in the assembly
Thanks to all for your help :).
- Original Message -
From:
NLG
To:
blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 15:45
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 2002 Buick Century TRAC OFF light?

Yes, I had to disconnect the sensor wire.  On this vehicle, the sensor wires
go into the hub assembly.  I installed the new hub assembly and plugged the
wire back together.  I was looking at it again this morning.  I unplugged
and plugged back in the wire a half dozen times and then applied some
dielectric
grease to the electrical connector, still the light will come back on in
just a short distance of driving.  Again, this morning I hooked back up the
OBD
II scanner.  I got it to work however, there were no trouble codes stored.
Another thing I did today is take the vehicle for a ride.  At around 50 MPH,
had the driver slam on the brakes as if a deer jumped out in front of her
and the ABS braking system definitely is not working.  There was no pulsing
in
the pedal.  I also loosened the spindle nut and retorqued it to 140 ft. lbs.
thinking that maybe it was to tight.  This also did not resolve the problem.
 I will try your suggestion of pulling the ECM fuse  If that doesn't do it,
I will have her drive it for a day or so (she will have brakes, just not ABS
brakes).  If the lights are still on, I will try replacing the hub assembly
with another one.
Working on cars can sure build one's vocabulary of four letter words!
Thanks :)
- Original Message -
From:
Larry Stansifer
To:
blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 07:11
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] 2002 Buick Century TRAC OFF light?

Did you in any way bump or disturb the track sensor while
changing the hub assembly?

With respect to your scan tool, each manufacturer is
different in their particular method of reading failure
codes. For example the manufacturer's manual might call for
you to turn the key on&off several times to activate the
test and scan mode. Another thing you might try is with the
battery connected remove the ECM fuse for 5 minutes and see
if that clears the code.

This is kind of a hale Marry shot but you might try
"alldata.com and see if they are giving any information away
for free.
I had kind of the same problem after installing a disk brake
upgrade on an 04 Mustang. One ABS sensor ring inside the
rotar hub was 0.010 smaller than the other three and it kept
tripping the ABS warning light.
That mother scratcher was a real party to find.

Good luck guy.

Regards

Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From:
blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of NLG
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:33 PM
To:
blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 2002 Buick Century TRAC OFF light?

Today I changed the front left hub assembly I.E. wheel
bearing on a 2002 Buick Century. I wasn't sure which wheel
bearing was bad so I jacked up the front of the car and
blocked it so that both wheels were off the garage floor. I
then had someone start the car and put it in drive, and
accelerate to around 50 MPH . The left wheel was noisier
than the right one, so I removed the old left side hub
assembly containing the wheel bearing and replaced it with a
new one. This did fix the wheel bearing noise, it is gone.
However, now the TRAC OFF light on the dash is lit and stays
on while the key is on and when the car is being driven down
the road. How do I turn the light out? I double checked
the wheel sensor and it is plugged in. I hooked up an OBD
II scanner but for some reason it wouldn't communicate with
the ECM so I couldn't pull any codes. I disconnected the
positive cable from the battery for 10 minutes and
reattached it. The light was out when I turned the key to
the on position and stayed out when the car was started but
came back on in 500 feet of travel down the street.

The only thing I can think of to do is to try pulling the
codes again. This OBD II code reader is fairly new to me.
I only used it once before and that was on a 2000 F150 4x4.
The truck had a miss. I plugged the scan tool into the port
beneath the dash, turned the key to the on possession
without starting the truck and then turned the scan tool on.
The scan tool gave me a P0301 code. I changed the coil on
plug and the miss was gone. When I plugged the scan tool
into the Buick, I used the same procedure as for the F150
but for some reason, I got a message that the scanner could
not communicate. Does anyone know if the procedure for
pulling codes is different for a Ford verses a GM vehicle?

Any and all ideas will be appreciated :)

Thanks :)




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Well, it certainly does!

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I agree, I think of a sabersaw the same way you do.  Does that say something  
> about our age, or what?  Good post.  Don
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:09 AM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw
> 
> 
>   I use those terms differently than some of the postings. To me a sabersaw 
> is 
> an older small hand held power tool with a short reciprocating blade about 3 
> inches in length and 1/4-inch or so in width (attached at top to the tool but 
> open and free at the other end) such as an economy class consumer-type 
> hoobyist 
> tool. Now I also have a newer and slightly larger hand held power tool model 
> with a reciprocating blade which is actually labelled as a jigsaw but it 
> operates to much greater tolerances and is a respectable woodworker's tool, 
> but 
> to me it is still a saber saw. 
> 
>   To me, a jigsaw is not a hand held tool but a bench top tool with a longer 
> reciprocating blade attached at both top and bottom of the blade. The blades 
> give pretty good service before dulling. Saber saw and jigsaw blades break 
> under 
> stress as from turning too tight of a curve but they break only infrequently.
> 
>   A scroll saw is a specialized tool with a very thin reciprocating blade 
> with 
> very little up and down movement designed usually for cutting fairly thin 
> materials such as 1/4-inch thick plywood for crafts but also able to cut 
> larger 
> stock at a slower rate and nicely able to make extremely fine cuts of stacked 
> veneers for marquetry work or delicate cut-outs from thin stock. I use a 
> scroll 
> saw to cut table aprons with pierced fretwork of grape or ivy vine patterns 
> with 
> leaves, monograms, etc. The blades dull ratherly quickly and break just as 
> often. I never begin a scroll work job without a number of extra blades on 
> hand 
> and I change the blade just as soon as its easy cutting declines. The blade 
> is 
> easily detachable so that it can be threaded through drilled holes to give 
> access to inside cuts. On a table apron I may have around a hundred such 
> inside 
> cuts so easy detachability and re-attaching is important.
> 
>   The bandsaw has a blade which is a complete circle and the blade runs in an 
> oval on two wheels usually. A few machines have three wheels so that the 
> blade 
> runs around the three wheels in a rounded triangular fashion. The bandsaw 
> cannot 
> be used to start an inside cut within the fixed or solid perimeter of a 
> piece. 
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   > well, then I say "be very careful".
>   > I love mine. The thinner the blade, and the corser the blade the better 
>   > for turning. But whew! it can start a canal on a fingertip.
>   > Of course for very straight, hahahahaha, cuts, one can use a blade 
> without 
>   > many tangential burrs, and feel the side of the blade;. But I get the 
>   > feeling that my makita likes to run, so I dial it down at any sign of 
>   > necessity.
>   > 
>   > Clamped it to the side of my mom's open basement steps and ran a piece of 
>   > molding between the step and the blade, and surpised both of us with how 
>   > nicely it made the right size piece of trim.
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > On Fri, 20 Apr 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:
>   > 
>   > > YES YOU GOT IT...
>   > > - Original Message -
>   > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>   > > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:24 PM
>   > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line 
> Drawing 
>   > Board.htm
>   > >
>   > >
>   > > So is a jigsaw, and a sabersaw, and a scroll saw,
>   > > the thing that looks like a foot log sewing machine with a saw blade
>   > > instead of a needle on the end of a pistoning arm, all the same thing?
>   > >
>   > > On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote:
>   > >
>   > > > Hi Rob,
>   > > >
>   > > > I know what a scroll saw is and what it looks like, I've just never 
> been
>   > > > partial to putting my finger anywhere near a moving blade, jigsaw or
>   > > > otherwise.
>   > > >
>   > > > I've heard horror stories of people getting their fingers too close 
> to 
> one
>   > > > of those blades while chopping up meat at the local grocery store, and
>   > > > people end up getting fingers along with the cuts of meat they buy.
>   > > >
>   > > > Like I said, I just get weary of my fingers going anywhere near a 
> moving
>   > > > blade.
>   > > >
>   > > > Oh, and by the way, I also had a hard time explaining what a scroll 

[BlindHandyMan] Re: to fret or to fretless

[Janet and Felix *]

Felix says to just use Franklin Hyde Glue.  He says it'll work just as well 
but just takes longer to dry.

I can't attest to that comment, since I've only had experience with 
superglue in fixing holes.  But, that's what Felix says.  (Janet shrugs her 
shoulders).

When I put the superglue - sawdust layers in, I did not push in the saw dust 
at all.  I just sprinkled a pinch in, and then put a couple more drops of 
superglue in, then sprinkled some more sawdust in, and so on.

I put in about a pinch of sawdust at a time.

Felix says if you are working on an expensive guitar fretboard, to please 
just find a good luthier to fix the nicks and holes in the fretboard for 
you.

If you are just learning, it is best to learn on a guitar neck that you 
won't be devastated over if it gets messed up.

I screwed up one of Felix's guitar necks trying to fix a large chip right at 
the nut.  I tried using wood putty to repair the slot and then tried sanding 
it.  It felt okay but looked horrible.  The colors didn't match.  Felix 
chipped it, while pulling the nut out, then I tried to fix it.  Well, it 
wasn't fixable.  Not by me anyway!  But fortunately, it wasn't an expensive 
guitar neck.  We ended up giving that guitar neck to the luthier as a gift.  
If he can fix it, more power to him!

There are alot of... dare I say it... junky guitars out there, at swap 
meets, pawn shops, garage sales,  and so on... to practice working on!  That 
is what Felix does!  He's always perusing these places for cheap guitars he 
can fix up and resale.  And he does.  Most of them.  Every so often, the 
guitar serves as nothing more than a learning experience.  But that's okay, 
because it was a cheap guitar to begin with.



Peace,
Jan
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype ID Bluesjanet
http://skype.org for free download




 Re: to fret or to fretless

 Posted by:  "Max Robinson"
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]


   k4ods



   Fri Apr 20, 2007 5:40 pm(PST)


 What I want to know is how do you work the sawdust into the 
crack without

super gluing your fingers to the whole thing.



Regards.



Max.  K 4 O D S.



Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net

Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net

Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com



To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,

[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -

From: "Scott Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 

Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 5:47 PM

Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: to fret or to fretless



Ah man, I better run out and get me some of that Rosewood and make

loads of saw dust. I'll clean my chop-saw out really well and then

just make up some dust that will end up in the bag. grin. Seriously

though, this is a really fine idea. I wonder if there's a nice neat

way to make sawdust in different sizes. Ay you laugh, but maybe a

sawdust -making machine. grin



Scott

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[BlindHandyMan] Work Bench

[Keith Christian]

Hi,
I sanded out my work bench.  Is it a good idea to seal it again?  Would
a poliurathan or some clear coat be good?  It is pretty beat up but I
like the idea of it being sealed to keep the splinters down.
 
 
It does not need to look like my dining room table, but it would be nice
to be able to take a bit of a beating.  I appreciate your ideas.
 
Thanks,
 
Keith
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Work Bench

[carl]

sand it 
  - Othen aply a cote of celulose canding cealor let it dry and sand agane 
with a fine grade paper and repete about another 2/4 timesriginal Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Work Bench


  Hi,
  I sanded out my work bench. Is it a good idea to seal it again? Would
  a poliurathan or some clear coat be good? It is pretty beat up but I
  like the idea of it being sealed to keep the splinters down.


  It does not need to look like my dining room table, but it would be nice
  to be able to take a bit of a beating. I appreciate your ideas.

  Thanks,

  Keith


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rob where are you?

[Richard Sherman]

Hi,
Just want to say hello to fellow Minnesotans.

I also am from Minnesota. Grew up in Bemidji and Alexandria.

To the Rob who lives north of Brainerd, you live out in the middle of 
nowhere. Probably along highway 4. I've fished both Cass and Leech Lake. 
Beautifl area but quite remote.

To the Rob by Rochester, I always loved going to Valley Fair as a kid.

It's way too cold for me in Minnesota that's why I now live in Tacoma, 
Washington.

Rich
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 7:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rob where are you?


  Hi, I'm haft way between the towns of Remer and Boy River. Which is about 
100 miles north of brainerd if you know where that is...
  ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 10:59 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rob where are you?

  Pardon this post but I was just wondering what part of the state you are 
in
  rob?
  I am also in Minnesota. I am out side of Rochester.
  Robert

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 9:49 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Yes, That is what I do with my omni which is the next step up from the ID
  MATE. Also I found that in the last update that a lot of garage type 
things
  are in the new data base.Things like starting fluid and stuff like that...
  ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message -
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Well as far as the topic of this product being on topic for the blind 
handy
  man. Hear are a couple of ideas.
  This could be used to mark things in the shop such as paints, varnish,
  stains, and other fluids that come in containers that may look similar but
  have different contants. Some times I can't tell the difference between
  motor oil and tranny fluid.
  Another use could be for marking wires such as plug wires or if you are
  working on a wire harness that has several wires that you need to keep 
track
  of and you can't see the colors, you could mark them with tags that the 
unit
  could read back to you once you have them marked.
  Any other thoughts?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 

  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  Behalf Of Richard Sherman
  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:39 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Hi,
  I hope this thread is not too far off topic.

  I have an ID Mate and is useful once it is set up. I did not know about 
the
  "scan and say" product which can be found at

  http://www.barcode-solutions.com/scanandsay.html
  
  < http://www.barcode-solutions.com/scanandsay.html
   >

  I really like what I have just read about this product.

  Rich
  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Fowle
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 4:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I d mates.

  Well "Mates" now that you're all "ID'd"
  the ID Mate is a bar code reader with an attached box that records, on
  flash
  memory cards, whatever you want and relates it to each bar code you show
  it.

  So you can either read existing codes on products, or put lables
  they sell on stuff and record names instructions etc.
  for each and then identify them again.

  Originally sold for well over a thousand bucks.

  Probably being replaced with computer based systems for less that come
  with huge product databases like BarCodeSolutions "Scan and Say."

  Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw

[spiro]

thank you for this explanation.
What I have then is a heavy duty saber saw.


On Sat, 21 Apr 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I use those terms differently than some of the postings. To me  a sabersaw is 
> an older small hand held power tool with a short reciprocating blade about 3 
> inches in length and 1/4-inch or so in width (attached at top to the tool but 
> open and free at the other end) such as an economy class consumer-type 
> hoobyist tool. Now I also have a newer and slightly larger hand held power 
> tool model with a reciprocating blade which is actually labelled as a jigsaw 
> but it operates to much greater tolerances and is a respectable woodworker's 
> tool, but to me it is still a saber saw.
>
> To me, a jigsaw is not a hand held tool but a bench top tool with a longer 
> reciprocating blade attached at both top and bottom of the blade. The blades 
> give pretty good service before dulling. Saber saw and jigsaw blades break 
> under stress as from turning too tight of a curve but they break only 
> infrequently.
>
> A scroll saw is a specialized tool with a very thin reciprocating blade with 
> very little up and down movement designed usually for cutting fairly thin 
> materials such as 1/4-inch thick plywood for crafts but also able to cut 
> larger stock at a slower rate and nicely able to make extremely fine cuts of 
> stacked veneers for marquetry work or delicate cut-outs from thin stock. I 
> use a scroll saw to cut table aprons with pierced fretwork of grape or ivy 
> vine patterns with leaves, monograms, etc. The blades dull ratherly quickly 
> and break just as often. I never begin a scroll work job without a number of 
> extra blades on hand and I change the blade just as soon as its easy cutting 
> declines. The blade is easily detachable so that it can be threaded through 
> drilled holes to give access to inside cuts. On a table apron I may have 
> around a hundred such inside cuts so easy detachability and re-attaching is 
> important.
>
> The bandsaw has a blade which is a complete circle and the blade runs in an 
> oval on two wheels usually. A few machines have three wheels so that the 
> blade runs around the three wheels in a rounded triangular fashion. The 
> bandsaw cannot be used to start an inside cut within the fixed or solid 
> perimeter of a piece.
>
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
>--joining the world of blind wood workers
>
> -- Original message --
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> well, then I say "be very careful".
>> I love mine. The thinner the blade, and the corser the blade the better
>> for turning. But whew! it can start a canal on a fingertip.
>> Of course for very straight, hahahahaha, cuts, one can use a blade without
>> many tangential burrs, and feel the side of the blade;. But I get the
>> feeling that my makita likes to run, so I dial it down at any sign of
>> necessity.
>>
>> Clamped it to the side of my mom's open basement steps and ran a piece of
>> molding between the step and the blade, and surpised both of us with how
>> nicely it made the right size piece of trim.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 20 Apr 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:
>>
>>> YES YOU GOT IT...
>>>  - Original Message -
>>>  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>>>  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:24 PM
>>>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line Drawing
>> Board.htm
>>>
>>>
>>>  So is a jigsaw, and a sabersaw, and a scroll saw,
>>>  the thing that looks like a foot log sewing machine with a saw blade
>>>  instead of a needle on the end of a pistoning arm, all the same thing?
>>>
>>>  On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote:
>>>
>>> > Hi Rob,
>>> >
>>> > I know what a scroll saw is and what it looks like, I've just never been
>>> > partial to putting my finger anywhere near a moving blade, jigsaw or
>>> > otherwise.
>>> >
>>> > I've heard horror stories of people getting their fingers too close to one
>>> > of those blades while chopping up meat at the local grocery store, and
>>> > people end up getting fingers along with the cuts of meat they buy.
>>> >
>>> > Like I said, I just get weary of my fingers going anywhere near a moving
>>> > blade.
>>> >
>>> > Oh, and by the way, I also had a hard time explaining what a scroll saw 
>>> > was
>>> > to a friend of mine here, and heck, if it wasn't just as difficult to
>>> > explain as nuclear fission, but I think I can explain nuclear fission a 
>>> > lot
>>> > easier than I could a scroll saw. Grin.
>>> >
>>> > Victor
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


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The Pod Cast add