[BlindHandyMan] Product Recall

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All
Gateway Inc. Recalls Notebook Computer Batteries Due to Fire Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in
cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary
recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using
recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: Gateway Lithium Ion Battery Packs

Units: About 14,000

Battery Distributor: Gateway Inc., of Irvine, Calif.

Hazard: These lithium-ion battery packs can overheat, which could pose a
fire hazard to consumers. This is not an internal battery cell defect.

Incidents/Injuries: Gateway has received four reports of battery packs
overheating, including minor property damage. No injuries have been
reported.

Description: The recalled battery packs were shipped as the primary or
spare battery pack for some Gateway 400VTX and 450ROG series notebooks,
and are identified by part numbers: 6500760 or 6500761. The part number
and "made by SMP" are printed on a label on the underside of the battery
pack.

Sold through: Gateway's professional and direct distributors and Gateway
Country stores nationwide from May 2003 through August 2003. The
computers with these batteries sold for between $1,200 and $2,400 and
individual batteries sold for between $60 and $90.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should stop using these recalled batteries immediately
and contact Gateway to receive a replacement battery. Consumers can
continue to use the notebook computers safely by turning the system off,
removing the battery pack, and using the AC adapter and power cord to
power the system until the replacement battery is received.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Gateway at (800)
292-6813 between 7 a.m. and 10 p.m. CT seven days a week or visit the
company's Web site at
www.gateway.com/battery

Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I would like to hear a little more about that xricon audible liquid level I 
went on google but they didn't have  any thing about it that I could see..
THANKS ROB from Minnesota   
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boyce, Ray 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:24 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.


  Hi Dan

  Gee it's fun doing home renovations, I am glad Teresa has got you away
  from the Jack Daniels.
  If you had gone down any deeper you might have come out over here .
  Anyhow I am pleased to see the deck finally starting.
  Keep us posted on it's progress.
  Ray

  

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 03:49
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some
  rather 
  large holes in my backyard for the deck footers.

  Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, 
  squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the
  house, 
  sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off
  the 
  almost right gremlins.

  We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 
  AM. I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level. This is a set of tubes 
  that you connect to either end of a garden hose. Then you fill the hose 
  with water. When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a

  steady tone. Great for eventually marking the height of the posts 
  relative to the ledger board.

  We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot
  long 
  auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the

  whole thing. Then we found we couldn't get it into the car. So we 
  brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down
  to 
  our house. He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck.

  After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and 
  back to the house, we took a quick break. We then assembled the rig and 
  started it up for a test. We could not keep the thing running. It's idle

  was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off
  the 
  throttle. We messed with the choke. We messed with the idle. We checked 
  the fuel filter. We checked the oil. We sent Teresa out to purchase a 
  new spark plug. No joy. So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn 
  thing.

  Tom is a big guy, I am not. I gave him the throttle side, but that left 
  me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through
  the 
  entire process. It was very very hard work. However, it was a lot easier

  than I expected. I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders

  wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed. Nothing like that 
  happened.

  We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up
  and 
  clear the dirt from the bit. Of course, the engine would stall and I 
  would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole.

  Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds. The engine about 50+ pounds. and 
  an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot. At
  first 
  it wasn't too bad. As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn 
  thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to
  one 
  side so we could clear the dirt.

  After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very
  happy 
  with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes. We were still in 
  relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel. He convinced me to put the 
  eighteen inch extension bar on and drill until we hit clay or something 
  hard. Well, I now have five four and a half foot deep holes in the yard.

  We got down to clay or sand stone in two out of the five holes. I am 
  hoping we are close to that in the other three holes.

  Now, imagine hauling a hundred and fifty pounds of auger, engine, and
  dirt 
  from ground level up to your shoulders in a nice smooth motion. And
  doing 
  it over and over until all the holes were cleared of loose dirt. I was 
  one sore puppy on Sunday. I have some nice raw spots on the flesh
  between 
  my thumb and forefinger from blisters that broke.

  As an aside, a guy I see in the gym locker room regularly, put in a deck

  last year. We have been sharing stories about decks for a while. I 
  hadn't seen him for a couple of weeks. I saw him Monday morning. We 
  chatted for a bit, then he saw my hands and said "What the hell did you
  do 
  to your .. HEY! You drilled your post holes didn't you?" He had the 
  same exact wounds when he did his.

  We covered the holes with plastic and lumber to keep the plastic from 
  blowing off. I called the inspector today and he will inspect my holes 
  this afternoon. I 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Jewel Blanch]

Oh!  I always thought that * ripping meant cutting a plank in to slices.

   Jewel


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Dale Leavens]

Dear Jewel,

No, not quite. Ripping is when you take something like a 1 by 4 and rip an inch 
off of it. Resawing is when you turn it into say two half inch by four boards. 
This takes a lot more saw and though it can be accomplished with a table saw, 
something like a 12 inch wide board cannot be cut with mostly anything but a 
band saw. Well not in the 12 inch dimension anyway.

Hope this helps.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel Blanch 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?


  Isn't resawing the same as ripping?

  Jewel

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Fw: Talking Meat Thermometers

[Irwin Hott]

- Original Message - 
From: BlindNews Mailing List 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:51 PM
Subject: Talking Meat Thermometers 


The Fred's Head Companion
Friday, June 15, 2007

Talking Meat Thermometers 

By Michael McCarty 

Friday, June 15, 2007

Grill Alert: Talking Remote Meat Thermometer

Grilling is a great way to entertain. Constantly standing next to the grill, 
however, is not. Now you can have the freedom to mingle with this remote meat 
thermometer. A voice prompt alerts you when your meat is "Almost Ready" and 
"Ready." It's one of the hottest accessible gifts you can give! 

A remote meat thermometer takes the guesswork out of grilling. Insert the 
stainless steel probes in the center of the meat, select the type of meat and 
how you would like it cooked and let this wireless remote cooking thermometer 
do the rest. You can relax knowing that you will not overcook your food!

Features:

Works from up to 300 feet away.
Belt clip for added freedom.
Display backlight for convenient night grilling.
Water resistant for easy cleanup.
Wireless remote cooking thermometer operates at 433Mhz.
Uses two AA batteries and two AAA batteries (not included). 

Click this link to purchase the Grill AlertTalking Remote Meat Thermometer from 
Brookstone. 

http://www.brookstone.com/store/thumbnail.asp?wid=3&cid=33&sid=465&search_t

The Grill Right Wireless Talking BBQ/Oven Thermometer

Hate not knowing when meat is properly cooked? Maybe you like meat cooked a 
certain way? This wireless thermometer will verbally tell you when your meat 
has reached its perfect temperature. You can program it for 8 entrees (beef, 
lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, turkey, chicken, and fish), choose the "doneness" 
you want, and just start grilling. 

Features LCD screen, remote wireless probe, speaks in 5 languages, has range 
from 32°F to 572°F, four alert options (almost ready, ready, overcooked, 
out-of-range), audio alarm, and the main unit can receive probe signal from up 
to 330 feet away.

Click this link to purchase the Grill Right Wireless Talking BBQ/Oven 
Thermometer from Oregon Scientific.

http://www2.oregonscientific.com/shop/product.asp?cid=9&scid=99&pid=763

Posted by Michael McCarty at 12:56 PM 


http://fredsheadcompanion.blogspot.com/2006/10/grill-alerttalking-remote-meat.html







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing a washer [WAS] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Andy,

I have a feeling I have done this a couple of times  before now, hopefully I 
won't forget anything.

Fossettes do vary a little so this may not be exactly what you find. Hopefully 
it will be close enough to be helpful.

First, turn off the water to the tap. there may be a stop cock under the sink 
with a tube leading to the tap to turn off the water otherwise you may have to 
turn off the entire water to the house.

Next open the tap to relieve the pressure and once the water has finished 
dripping put a plug in the sink or a rag to keep anything you drop from going 
down the drain.

Now prize the plastic cap out of the top of the knob and you should find a 
Philips screw. Remove this and you should be able to lift the knob off of the 
top of the tap. If it has been there a while you may have to rock it a little 
as you pull.

Now there should be a nut below the knob through which the stem of the tap 
protrudes. This must be loosened and removed. It will draw the stem out with it.

The business end of the tap stem has a screw in it, usually a slot screw but it 
could be a Philips. This holds a rubber washer into a seat, usually a sort of 
cup shaped affair.

Remove that screw and replace the rubber washer with a new one. You will be 
surprised to discover that the washer you remove is flat, maybe even indented 
and might even have a nick or two in it. The replacement will usually be 
slightly cone shaped toward one side. The flat side fits down into the cup and 
the screw goes through the hole in the center of the washer into the middle of 
the cup. Tighten the screw down to hold the washer into the end of the valve 
stem and replace the stem into the valve by tightening the nut back down into 
the valve.

Before putting the stem back into the body of the valve turn the stem into the 
fully open position, that means withdrawing it as much as
possible so the nut can be fully inserted into the valve body without the stem 
bottoming out and when tight replace the knob and it's screw and the central 
cap then turn the tap off before turning the water back on. Remove the plug or 
rag in the sink so it doesn't overflow should the water come on strong.

You now should have a smoothly working tap which turns off easily.

You might like to change both washers while you are at it so they both work 
equally well.

I recommend you purchase a package of assorted washers. They come in a variety 
of sizes, some of which I have never seen use for but there isn't anything more 
frustrating than taking the damn thing apart only to discover you don't have a 
washer of the correct size. These assortments often come with spare screws and 
other washer parts like a selection of 'O' rings and fibre washers to go under 
that nut you removed to release the stem. They don't cost much I don't think 
and I keep the left over washers to use behind those occasional plugs which are 
recessed a little too far for the face plates to fit snugly against or other 
similar purposes.

I hope I have described this adequately and it is helpful.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Andy Collins 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION


  And on something similar - I need to fit a new washer to my very hard to turn 
off cold water tap, and I'm not sure how to get at the washer. The tap has a 
circular disk on the top that looks as if it should prise off, but doesn't with 
my thumb nail. Basic job I know, but would be grateful for some guidance.

  Thanks - Andy
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sparkey Bailey 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 8:57 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION

  Hi all,
  First of all, please be kind to me, I don't know anything about faucets. Ok, 
  We need a new kitchen faucet and we bought one. It is one of those faucets 
  that has the lever for both hot and cold water.The lever on the new faucet 
  doesn't really move much, I don't see how this one is going to work at 
  alldo any of you know why this new faucet's lever is almost 
  paralyzed?
  Thanks,
  Sparkey 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  --
  This email has been verified as Virus free
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION

[Sparkey Bailey]

Thank you so much
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION


> Hi,
>
> These differ a little, you may find that as you move the lever to increase 
> the water flow the range from hot-to-cold and back increases. Some swing 
> in a more or less rotation movement for mixing but more or less up and 
> down to increase/decrease the flow.
> Once installed you should discover it works well.
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Sparkey Bailey
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:57 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION
>
>
>  Hi all,
>  First of all, please be kind to me, I don't know anything about faucets. 
> Ok,
>  We need a new kitchen faucet and we bought one. It is one of those 
> faucets
>  that has the lever for both hot and cold water.The lever on the new 
> faucet
>  doesn't really move much, I don't see how this one is going to work at
>  alldo any of you know why this new faucet's lever is almost
>  paralyzed?
>  Thanks,
>  Sparkey
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[BlindHandyMan] Material Choices for Doors and Windows

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Material Choices

One of the most frequently asked questions is "What's the best type of
window or door?" There is no simple answer. The best material for a
particular application
depends on numerous factors, including aesthetics, performance
requirements, and budget.

Framing
The most common framing materials are wood, vinyl, and aluminum. More
recent introductions to the market include fiberglass and a number of
composites.

Wood offers good thermal performance and natural beauty. Many
manufacturers offer products in a wide variety of species. Wood requires
maintenance that
other materials may not, in that it might needs to be painted or stained
periodically. Most manufacturers of wood products offer a choice of
aluminum and/or
vinyl cladding on the exterior to minimize such maintenance
requirements. Increasingly, wood window and door manufacturers are
incorporating "engineered"
wood components, particularly in non-visible areas, to enhance
performance and achieve optimal wood utilization.

Vinyl offers good thermal performance and requires little maintenance.
It is available in a choice of interior finishes, including woodgrains
and colors.
Most vinyl products incorporate rigid vinyl with multi-chamber profiles
for strength and insulation. Often corners in these units are welded,
creating
a joint that is generally more resistant to air and water infiltration
than corners that are mechanically fastened with screws. More recently,
a number
of manufacturers have developed products using cellular vinyl. It
generally does not require painting, but can be painted another color if
desired.

Aluminum is stronger than wood or vinyl. For this reason, it is still
the dominant choice in architectural and demanding commercial
applications. Its strength
also allows framing widths to be minimized, allowing for larger glass
areas in aluminum windows and doors. Aluminum itself is a good thermal
conductor;
therefore most aluminum window manufacturers offer "thermal-break"
products. In these designs, a structural insulating material is
incorporated between
the interior and exterior aluminum.

Fiberglass offers strength comparable to aluminum and insulating
properties similar to wood and vinyl. It can be provided in a variety of
finishes and generally
can be repainted in the field. Fiberglass framing cannot be bent,
however, which means these types of products are generally not available
in round-top,
elliptical, and other specialty models.

A variety of other materials are also available from a select number of
manufacturers. These include steel, engineered plastics, and
wood/plastic composites.

Door Materials
Within the industry, door panels without any framing are referred to as
"slabs." Residential entry door slabs are primarily manufactured in
wood, insulated
steel, and fiberglass. Vinyl entry doors are also available, as are
doors produced with other composite materials. Sliding glass doors and
many hinged
glass models are also produced in vinyl and aluminum. Interior doors are
most commonly made of wood. The most common feature a hollow core and a
molded
door face or skin.

Wood-Traditional wood doors feature "stile-and-rail" construction.
Vertical stiles and horizontal rails are joined together with solid wood
panels (or glass
lites) to create a single door panel. Today, stile, rail and panel
pieces are often made up of "engineered" wood. This is done to enhance
performance and/or
achieve optimal wood utilization. Manufacturers offer doors in a variety
of wood species.

In addition to traditional stile-and-rail construction, a variety of
other methods are used to manufacture wood doors. The most common type
of interior
door is constructed with molded (or flush) high-density fiberboard
skins. These are offered in a variety of designs (re-creating the look
of stile-and-rail
construction). Another option for interior applications is MDF (medium
density fiberboard) doors. These doors use solid pieces of engineered
wood that
is routed to create patterns. 

Steel-Most entry or exterior doors sold today are steel. A steel door
slab features an interior and exterior steel skin on both sides of a
core made up
of an insulating foam surrounded by a wood perimeter to provide energy
efficiency. Steel door slabs are produced in a variety of solid panel
styles (again,
recreating the look of stile-and-rail construction). Steel door slabs
often have a section cut out and replaced with a door lite (or a
decorative glass
panel). Steel doors are available in stainable versions to offer a
woodgrain look.

Fiberglass-It has been around for many years, but fiberglass had
accounted for only a limited segment of the exterior door market. More
recently, it has
grown in popularity. Constructed similarly to steel doors, the
fiberglass composite skin in place of steel, these types of doors are
also designed to provide
good energy efficiency and low maintenance. They are now offered in
stainable/paintable woodgrain and paintable smooth 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Lenny McHugh]

NO, ripping would make a perpendicular cut to the surface of the board where 
as resawing makes a parallel cut.  If you rip an 8 inch board in half you 
have two 4 inch boards. If you resaw a 1x8 board in half you have two 1/2x8 
boards. Hope this makes sense.
Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "Jewel Blanch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?


Isn't resawing the same as ripping?


   Jewel


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Lenny McHugh]

I hope that you have a wonderful birthday. They are really good for you. 
Those who have the most live the longest.
Enjoy the tape measure. I like it so much that I purchased a second for a 
backup.
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Jewel Blanch]

Isn't resawing the same as ripping?


   Jewel


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Bryce,

I was originally mistaken, there is a talking wireless thermometer for the 
BBQ made by Oregon Scientific, I mistakenly referred to it as Ohio 
Scientific, no doubt a deliberate ambiguity. Anyway, I tried sending a page 
from Amazon.com to the list showing it but the list rejected it about half a 
dozen times. Point is though, it is available there for 48 bucks plus free 
shipping but it is all over the Web. I am thinking I might get one too. I 
don't think I will buy it out of the States though, I am handing out money 
to Revenue canada by the bucket full for customs.

This thing is supposed to talk and can be set to tell you temperature or 
degree of doneness according to a number of preset selections. Don't know 
how much of that part of the thing talks though. So many of those things 
talk in a sort of half a$$ed fashion, not enough to actually be useful.

First one to the post is charged with the responsibility of preparing a 
report for the list.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer


> Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven 
> thermometer
> for my smoker?  I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe.  I could
> use both items for my smoker.
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Dale Leavens]

Why thankyou Steve!


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Steve Boodram 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 2:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question


  Happy birthday Dale.
  Phone: 1-868-636-3519
  Fax: 1-868-679-1001
  Mobile: 1-868-730-8377
  e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

  Happy Birthday Dale. I do not own one of those talking rulers any 
  chance it could be solar powered? Lee

  -- 
  File cabinet:
  A four drawer, manually activated trash compactor.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Jim Ruby]

Sure it is on the page here it the info below:

List Price: $59.95

Online Price:

$53.95   Save 10%

Members Pay:

$48.55

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:18 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

 

Thanks Ray, I saw this one, but couldn't fine a price tag.
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

Hi Brice
* Digital LCD screen with remote wireless probe to identify 
temperature/readiness of meat
* Speaks in five languages with corresponding display (English, Spanish, 
German, French, Danish)
* Sensor has temperature range from 32°F to 572°F
* Programmable entrée programs include beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, 
turkey, chicken, and fish
* Four doneness selections include rare, medium rare, medium, and well done
* Four verbal and audio alert options let you know the status of your 
meal--almost ready, ready, overcooked, and out-of-range
* Audio alarm sounds when selected temperature is reached
* Main unit will receive the probe signal from up to 330 feet away
* Stainless steel probe detaches from sensor for easy cleaning
* Low battery indicator
Find out more at
http://gifts.barnesandnoble.com/search/product.asp?PWB=1
 &EAN=9781400663033&z=y
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ] 
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 07:49
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven thermometer

for my smoker? I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe. I could 
use both items for my smoker.

To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address 
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
Yahoo! Groups Links

**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**

To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
Yahoo! Groups Links

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION

[Dale Leavens]

Hi,

These differ a little, you may find that as you move the lever to increase the 
water flow the range from hot-to-cold and back increases. Some swing in a more 
or less rotation movement for mixing but more or less up and down to 
increase/decrease the flow.
Once installed you should discover it works well.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Sparkey Bailey 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:57 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION


  Hi all,
  First of all, please be kind to me, I don't know anything about faucets. Ok, 
  We need a new kitchen faucet and we bought one. It is one of those faucets 
  that has the lever for both hot and cold water.The lever on the new faucet 
  doesn't really move much, I don't see how this one is going to work at 
  alldo any of you know why this new faucet's lever is almost 
  paralyzed?
  Thanks,
  Sparkey 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Don]

I KNOW the blind mice mart  sells  the talking meat probe.  Don 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Armando Del Gobbo 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:34 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer


  Hi,
  try blindmicemart

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

  > Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven 
  > thermometer
  > for my smoker? I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe. I could
  > use both items for my smoker.
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Yahoo! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > -- 
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  > Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/852 - Release Date: 17-Jun-2007 
  > 08:23
  >
  > 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Update on bed off restoration

[Roger Bachelder]

Hello Guys,
 
I've gotten allot of work done this past week on this project. After the bed
was taken off last Sunday, I started working on the brake lines. I rigged
up an apple juice container with some wire ties, and attached the container
to the frame, then ran the brake line that i cut into the container. next, i
disconnected the driveshaft. I took a plastic bag and put it over the shaft
coming out of the transmission and put a wire tie on it, to keep the
moisture and dirt out. next, i put the jack under the gear case and put
little pressure on it. i then took out the shocks. i didn't have the right
size deep socket for the u bolts, So i Broke out the good old sawzall. Once
that was done, i cut the emergency brake cables. At last, i was able to
remove the axle. Now i was at the part of the project that i was dreading,
the springs. What a pain in the neck. I started cutting the bolts out of the
springs and shackles with the sawzall. 
I was able to cut one out. But when i looked at what i cut, i noticed that i
cut the rear spring mount right in half! So  I broke out the grinder,  I
purchased some cutting wheels, and cut the dam springs out. I then grinded
off the rear bed mount that i cut in half. Next i took out all of the wiring
holders in the in side of the frame. along with all of the brackets that
hold the brake lines, and emergency brake cables. I then started to grind
the rear cross member and brace. i also grinded the sides of the main rails.
I've only done about half of the rails, because i don't want to grind to
close to the gas tank. unfortunately I'm waiting to get a hand with the gas
tank. And as soon as the gas tank is removed, i will continue to grind the
whole frame before painting it with POR15. 
 
I do have a question to you all though, What tool can i purchase that will
give me the ability to grind in those hard to reach areas? Example, My shock
mount is at a 45 degree angle off of the main rail. and the cross member is
right in back of it. and it is impossible to get my big grinder in there to
get the job done. 
Any suggestions would be grateful. 
 
I'll keep you all posted on the project. I'm having allot of fun!
Take care yawl.
 
Roger C Bachelder 3rd
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Armando Del Gobbo]

Hi,
try blindmicemart

- Original Message - 
From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer


> Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven 
> thermometer
> for my smoker?  I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe.  I could
> use both items for my smoker.
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/852 - Release Date: 17-Jun-2007 
> 08:23
>
> 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam

[Dale Leavens]

Can you dampen the noise by applying moderate pressure to the cabinet with your 
hand? Are there vibrations sounding like bits of the case are loose?

If not then the noise is directly from the fan. Even raising it onto a book or 
magazine should help you determine if insulation will quiet it or not.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:40 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam


  Well, maybe this is an idea whose time hasn't come. I don't know why the PC 
is as noisey as it is, it was loud the day I bought it. 

  Bill Stephan
  Kansas City, MO
  (816)803-2469
  William Stephan

  -Original Message-
  .From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  .Sent: 6/19/07 2:05:51 PM
  .To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
  .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam
  .
  .The best way to cut that stuff is with a hot wire but any kind of saw works 
well. I like using an ordinary hand saw about as well as anything but I have 
used a circular saw and my table saw. The sawdust though is difficult stuff, it 
becomes electrically charged and sticks to everything.
  .
  .Not sure it would help silence your computer though, usually the trouble 
with those fans is the little sleeve bearing. eventually they wear badly enough 
that the fan won't start and you have to push something through the rear vent 
and give it a spin to get it started. The main unit doesn't shake enough to 
rattle on the desk surface usually.
  .
  .Poly foam usually works a little better because it isn't so rigid. Thing is, 
you never know what might reduce vibration and transmission to other surfaces.
  .
  .
  .Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  .Skype DaleLeavens
  .Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
  .
  .
  . - Original Message - 
  . From: William Stephan 
  . To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  . Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:17 PM
  . Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam
  .
  .
  . All:
  . I have a PC with a fan that might have come from somebody's vacuum cleaner 
for all the noise it makes, and a dehumidifier that is also very loud. I have 
some Styrofoam sheets that were used as packing material, and thought I might 
place them between the offending equipment and the tabletops the pieces are on.
  .
  . First, is this kind of material worth bothering with in terms of 
sound-deadening, and second, what would be a good way to cut the stuff. I was 
thinking about a jig saw at low speed, would that work well?
  .
  . Bill Stephan
  . Kansas City, MO
  . (816)803-2469
  . William Stephan
  .
  .
  .
  . 
  .
  .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  .



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Brice Mijares]

Thanks Ray, I saw this one, but couldn't fine a price tag.
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer


Hi Brice
* Digital LCD screen with remote wireless probe to identify 
temperature/readiness of meat
* Speaks in five languages with corresponding display (English, Spanish, 
German, French, Danish)
* Sensor has temperature range from 32°F to 572°F
* Programmable entrée programs include beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, 
turkey, chicken, and fish
* Four doneness selections include rare, medium rare, medium, and well done
* Four verbal and audio alert options let you know the status of your 
meal--almost ready, ready, overcooked, and out-of-range
* Audio alarm sounds when selected temperature is reached
* Main unit will receive the probe signal from up to 330 feet away
* Stainless steel probe detaches from sensor for easy cleaning
* Low battery indicator
Find out more at
http://gifts.barnesandnoble.com/search/product.asp?PWB=1&EAN=9781400663033&z=y
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 07:49
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven thermometer 
for my smoker?  I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe.  I could 
use both items for my smoker.



To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address 
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links




**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Consumer Alert--Counterfeit/Tainted Tootpaste

[Scott Howell]

Maybe you all have heard about this on the news, but in the event you  
haven't.


> Counterfeit Colgate Toothpaste Found
> Contact:
> Allison Klimerman 212-310-3770
> Tom Paolella 212-310-2774
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE -- New York, New York -- June 14, 2007 -- The  
> Colgate–Palmolive Company today warned that counterfeit toothpaste  
> falsely packaged as "Colgate" has been found in several dollar-type  
> discount stores in four states: New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania,  
> and Maryland. There are indications that this product does not  
> contain fluoride and may contain Diethylene Glycol. The Company  
> stated that it does not use, nor has ever used, Diethylene Glycol  
> as an ingredient in Colgate toothpaste anywhere in the world.
>
> The counterfeit toothpaste can be easily recognized because it is  
> labelled as "Manufactured in South Africa." Colgate does not import  
> toothpaste into the United States from South Africa. In addition,  
> the counterfeit packages examined so far have several misspellings  
> including: "isclinically" "SOUTH AFRLCA" "South African Dental  
> Assoxiation".
>
> Counterfeit toothpaste is not manufactured or distributed by  
> Colgate and has no connection with the Company whatsoever. Colgate  
> is working closely with the US FDA to help to identify those  
> responsible for the counterfeit product.
>
> Consumers who suspect they may have purchased counterfeit product,  
> can call Colgate’s toll-free number at 1 800 468 6502.
>
> Taintedtoothpaste found at Md. store
> Counterfeit Colgate product contains antifreeze chemical
> By Jonathan D. Rockoff
> Sun Reporter
> Originally published June 15, 2007
> Discount stores in Maryland and three other states sold toothpaste  
> falsely packaged as Colgate and spiked with a poisonous chemical  
> used in antifreeze, federal health officials said yesterday.
>
> The Food and Drug Administration is investigating who laced the  
> toothpaste with diethylene glycol, which FDA inspectors first  
> discovered last week in a tube on the shelf of a Silver Spring  
> discount store.
>
> The Colgate-Palmolive Co. warned consumers to beware of  
> counterfeits and is helping recall the tainted products.
> Although federal health officials emphasized that the risk to  
> consumers was low, the episode deepened concerns about a food  
> safety system reeling from contamination of fresh produce, peanut  
> butter and pet food.
>
> "Counterfeiting of foods is certainly an issue that needs  
> attention, especially with concerns regarding intentional  
> contaminants," said Michael Doyle, director of the University of  
> Georgia's Center for Food Safety. He said counterfeits of infant  
> formula have previously been an issue. Mislabeled and adulterated  
> wheat gluten was the pet food problem.
>
> The Dollar Power store in Silver Spring sold 22 tubes of toothpaste  
> that might have been contaminated, its owner said. Neither federal  
> nor state health authorities have received any reports of illness.
>
> Diethylene glycol emerged as a threat after its discovery last  
> September in Chinese-made cough syrup that killed more than 50  
> people in Panama. Public health officials in the United States and  
> other countries have been on the hunt for the chemical since it was  
> found in toothpaste in Panama and traced back to China last month.
>
> After finding tainted shipments at discount stores in the United  
> States, the FDA said on June 1 that it was blocking all imports of  
> toothpaste from China, and it advised consumers to avoid using  
> Chinese-made toothpaste.
>
> "The health hazard is low because toothpaste is not meant to be  
> ingested, but regardless, this stuff is not supposed to be in  
> toothpaste," said Doug Arbesfeld, an FDA spokesman. The agency is  
> especially concerned about children or adults with kidney or liver  
> disease swallowing tainted toothpaste.
>
> The latest discovery adds to the alarm because it was found in  
> tubes of toothpaste sold as "Colgate" and labeled as "Manufactured  
> in South Africa."
>
> Colgate said it doesn't import toothpaste from South Africa, has  
> never used diethylene glycol as an ingredient and did not make the  
> recalled products. It said the counterfeits contained several  
> misspellings, such as "isclinically", "SOUTH AFRLCA" and "South  
> African Dental Assoxiation."
>
> Allison Klimerman, a Colgate spokeswoman, said the company is  
> working with the FDA and Customs officials to recall the  
> contaminated products.
>
> The FDA made the latest finding as part of its stepped-up search  
> for diethylene glycol, Arbesfeld said. An agency inspector visiting  
> the Dollar Power store in Silver Spring on June 7 discovered the  
> chemical in a 100-milliliter tube, said Lampert Ham, the store's  
> owner.
>
> Ham said he promptly destroyed the 122 tubes of toothpaste from the  
> shipment that his store had not yet sold. Ham said he had not heard  
> any comp

RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Brice
* Digital LCD screen with remote wireless probe to identify 
temperature/readiness of meat
* Speaks in five languages with corresponding display (English, Spanish, 
German, French, Danish)
* Sensor has temperature range from 32°F to 572°F
* Programmable entrée programs include beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, 
turkey, chicken, and fish
* Four doneness selections include rare, medium rare, medium, and well done
* Four verbal and audio alert options let you know the status of your 
meal--almost ready, ready, overcooked, and out-of-range
* Audio alarm sounds when selected temperature is reached
* Main unit will receive the probe signal from up to 330 feet away
* Stainless steel probe detaches from sensor for easy cleaning
* Low battery indicator
Find out more at
http://gifts.barnesandnoble.com/search/product.asp?PWB=1&EAN=9781400663033&z=y
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
Brice Mijares
Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 07:49
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven thermometer 
for my smoker?  I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe.  I could use 
both items for my smoker. 



To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or 
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address 
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links




**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**

[BlindHandyMan] wireless talking oven themometer

[Brice Mijares]

Does anyone know where I can fine a decent wireless talking oven thermometer 
for my smoker?  I wouldn't mine also owning a talking meat probe.  I could 
use both items for my smoker. 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam

[William Stephan]

Well, maybe this is an  idea whose time hasn't come.  I don't know why the PC 
is as noisey as it is, it was loud the day I bought it.   

 Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
.From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.Sent: 6/19/07 2:05:51 PM
.To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam
.
.The best way to cut that stuff is with a hot wire but any kind of saw works 
well. I like using an ordinary hand saw about as well as anything but I have 
used a circular saw and my table saw. The sawdust though is difficult stuff, it 
becomes electrically charged and sticks to everything.
.
.Not sure it would help silence your computer though, usually the trouble with 
those fans is the little sleeve bearing. eventually they wear badly enough that 
the fan won't start and you have to push something through the rear vent and 
give it a spin to get it started. The main unit doesn't shake enough to rattle 
on the desk surface usually.
.
.Poly foam usually works a little better because it isn't so rigid. Thing is, 
you never know what might reduce vibration and transmission to other surfaces.
.
.
.Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.Skype DaleLeavens
.Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
.
.
.  - Original Message - 
.  From: William Stephan 
.  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
.  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:17 PM
.  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam
.
.
.  All:
.  I have a PC with a fan that might have come from somebody's vacuum cleaner 
for all the noise it makes, and a dehumidifier that is also very loud. I have 
some Styrofoam sheets that were used as packing material, and thought I might 
place them between the offending equipment and the tabletops the pieces are on.
.
.  First, is this kind of material worth bothering with in terms of 
sound-deadening, and second, what would be a good way to cut the stuff. I was 
thinking about a jig saw at low speed, would that work well?
.
.  Bill Stephan
.  Kansas City, MO
.  (816)803-2469
.  William Stephan
.
.
.
.   
.
.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
.

[BlindHandyMan] How to Replace a Faucet

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
* Installing Bath and Shower Faucets

PURCHASE THE CORRECT FAUCET

* There are many sizes, types and styles of faucets. Be sure you purchase the 
correct faucet when replacing an existing one since many faucets are not 
interchangeable.

* Before purchasing a replacement faucet, take an exact measurement of the 
holes for the faucet, center to center. Also, remove the old faucet and take
it along to the store when purchasing the new fixture.

* There are many different types of mixer faucets. Use care in selecting the 
correct one-the style is optional, but the size must be correct.

* Before installing the new faucet, carefully read the manufacturer's 
instructions for installation. It's important to follow them exactly.

Take an exact measurement of the holes for the faucet, center to center.

USE THE CORRECT TOOLS

* It's important to use the proper tools when removing stubborn plumbing 
fixtures. On the right is a variety of wrenches designed for specific plumbing
jobs.

* You'll usually need two pipe wrenches (Stillson wrenches) on a plumbing job. 
One is used for holding, the other for turning. Use pipe wrenches only on
pipes. The teeth in the jaws of pipe wrenches bite into the metal and can mar 
chrome-finished nuts and pipe.

* Open-end wrenches and adjustable wrenches have smooth jaws and can be used 
for square or hex nuts. These wrenches are ideal for working with the interior
parts of faucets and valves.

* A closet spud wrench is a special thin wrench made to fit into tight places.

* You can use strap wrenches instead of a pipe wrench when working with 
chrome-coated pipe if a regular pipe wrench might mar the surface.

* Vise grip wrenches are ideal for holding and working with pipe of small 
diameter.

* Use basin wrenches to remove or tighten nuts and hose couplings under sinks 
and lavatories. Its alternate positions enable you to reach nuts that would
ordinarily be inaccessible to other wrenches.

Removing plumbing fixtures is easier if you use the right tool.

CONVERTING FROM IRON PIPE TO COPPER TUBING

* In most cases, you'll want to convert from iron pipe to plastic or copper. 
Check your local code. Both copper and plastic require no threading.

* Attach copper pipe to threaded pipe with a transition union. Half of the 
union is threaded onto the old iron pipe. The other half is soldered to the 
copper
pipe. The two halves are then threaded together. This type of fitting is also 
available for connecting iron to plastic and copper to plastic using solvent
cement or mechanical connections.

For reliable results use transition unions when changing from iron to copper or 
plastic or from copper to plastic.

REPLACING FAUCETS WITH SOLDERED ENDS

* To replace an ordinary faucet with a soldered end, first remove the old 
faucet by applying heat or cutting. Clean the end of the pipe thoroughly.

* Remove the stem of the faucet to protect the seat washer. Apply heat to the 
pipe with an ordinary propane heat torch. Then, apply solder and reassemble
the faucet. Use a solder that has no lead.

* You can apply an ordinary faucet of the same type to threaded pipe by 
applying a pipe compound or PTFE tape to the pipe threads and then attaching the
faucet to the threads.

Remove the stem and apply solder.

INSTALLING 4" FAUCET WITHOUT POP-UP DRAIN

* The 4" lavatory faucet without a pop-up drain is relatively simple to 
install. Place plumber's putty in the groove just underneath the chrome framing
to provide a tight seal.

* Insert the shanks of the lavatory faucet into the holes of the lavatory. 
Attach the locknuts and the washer to the shank and tighten them firmly into
place.

* Remove any excess putty from the base of the faucet. Connect the shank to the 
water supply and tighten.

The 4 inch lavatory faucet without a pop-up drain is relatively easy to install 
in your bathroom.

INSTALLING 4" FAUCET WITH POP-UP DRAIN

* Installing the 4" lavatory faucet with pop-up drain is more challenging.

* Start by carefully reading the instructions that came with the faucet.

* First, remove the old faucet and pop-up drain.

* Insert the new faucet into position. Add putty in the groove around the base 
of the faucet.

* Slip the washer over the shank and thread the locknut up the shank, placing 
the faucet loosely in position.

* Insert the drain plunger into the center hole and affix the adjustment bar to 
the drain plunger.

* Place the pop-up drain body in position and attach it to the adjustment bar. 
Tighten all nuts and attach the faucet to the water system. Attach the pop-up
drain body to the drain system.

* Place the stopper in the drain body and work the drain plunger. Make any 
adjustments by moving the lever assembly up or down in the holes provided.

The 4 inch lavatory faucet with a pop-up drain is a more challenging 
installation.

INSTALLING COMBINATION FAUCET WITH POP-UP DRAIN

* Installing the combination lavatory faucet with pop-up drain is much the same 
as the 4" lavatory

RE: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Dan
 
Gee it's fun doing home renovations, I am glad Teresa has got you away
from the Jack Daniels.
If you had gone down any deeper you might have come out over here .
Anyhow I am pleased to see the deck finally starting.
Keep us posted on it's progress.
Ray



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 03:49
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.



Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some
rather 
large holes in my backyard for the deck footers.

Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, 
squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the
house, 
sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off
the 
almost right gremlins.

We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 
AM. I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level. This is a set of tubes 
that you connect to either end of a garden hose. Then you fill the hose 
with water. When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a

steady tone. Great for eventually marking the height of the posts 
relative to the ledger board.

We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot
long 
auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the

whole thing. Then we found we couldn't get it into the car. So we 
brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down
to 
our house. He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck.

After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and 
back to the house, we took a quick break. We then assembled the rig and 
started it up for a test. We could not keep the thing running. It's idle

was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off
the 
throttle. We messed with the choke. We messed with the idle. We checked 
the fuel filter. We checked the oil. We sent Teresa out to purchase a 
new spark plug. No joy. So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn 
thing.

Tom is a big guy, I am not. I gave him the throttle side, but that left 
me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through
the 
entire process. It was very very hard work. However, it was a lot easier

than I expected. I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders

wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed. Nothing like that 
happened.

We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up
and 
clear the dirt from the bit. Of course, the engine would stall and I 
would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole.

Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds. The engine about 50+ pounds. and 
an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot. At
first 
it wasn't too bad. As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn 
thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to
one 
side so we could clear the dirt.

After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very
happy 
with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes. We were still in 
relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel. He convinced me to put the 
eighteen inch extension bar on and drill until we hit clay or something 
hard. Well, I now have five four and a half foot deep holes in the yard.

We got down to clay or sand stone in two out of the five holes. I am 
hoping we are close to that in the other three holes.

Now, imagine hauling a hundred and fifty pounds of auger, engine, and
dirt 
from ground level up to your shoulders in a nice smooth motion. And
doing 
it over and over until all the holes were cleared of loose dirt. I was 
one sore puppy on Sunday. I have some nice raw spots on the flesh
between 
my thumb and forefinger from blisters that broke.

As an aside, a guy I see in the gym locker room regularly, put in a deck

last year. We have been sharing stories about decks for a while. I 
hadn't seen him for a couple of weeks. I saw him Monday morning. We 
chatted for a bit, then he saw my hands and said "What the hell did you
do 
to your .. HEY! You drilled your post holes didn't you?" He had the 
same exact wounds when he did his.

We covered the holes with plastic and lumber to keep the plastic from 
blowing off. I called the inspector today and he will inspect my holes 
this afternoon. I can start pouring any time after today.

I am weeping slightly as I write the following. Since I planned on 36 
inch deep holes, and I now have 54 inch deep holes, I need fifty percent

more concrete. Which means hauling a lot more 80 pound bags up all the 
friggin stairs.

Also, I expect that some of our bags of concrete that over-wintered will

be useless now. I hope that some of them will be fine and I will
possibly 
dump an extra shovel full of portland cement into each batch if they 
happen to be a bit lumpy.

I am not looking forward to t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION

[Andy Collins]

And on something similar - I need to fit a new washer to my very hard to turn 
off cold water tap, and I'm not sure how to get at the washer. The tap has a 
circular disk on the top that looks as if it should prise off, but doesn't with 
my thumb nail. Basic job I know, but would be grateful for some guidance.

Thanks - Andy
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sparkey Bailey 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 8:57 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION


  Hi all,
  First of all, please be kind to me, I don't know anything about faucets. Ok, 
  We need a new kitchen faucet and we bought one. It is one of those faucets 
  that has the lever for both hot and cold water.The lever on the new faucet 
  doesn't really move much, I don't see how this one is going to work at 
  alldo any of you know why this new faucet's lever is almost 
  paralyzed?
  Thanks,
  Sparkey 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


--
This email has been verified as Virus free
Virus Protection and more available at http://www.plus.net



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] KITCHEN FAUCET QUESTION

[Sparkey Bailey]

Hi all,
First of all, please be kind to me, I don't know anything about faucets. Ok, 
We need a new kitchen faucet and we bought one. It is one of those faucets 
that has the lever for both hot and cold water.The lever on the new faucet 
doesn't really move much, I don't see how this one is going to work at 
alldo any of you know why this new faucet's lever is almost 
paralyzed?
Thanks,
Sparkey 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Good luck on your new tape measure. Also you mite want to take out the 
battery when you are not using it I found that the battery will last longer 
that way. 
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question


  There is an L-shaped cover located on the opposite end from the opening
  where the tape comes out. If you are facing the back or speaker side of
  the unit with the tape port to the left, press on the ridged area along the
  right edge and pull away from the unit. It fits very tight and there is
  not much clearance when the battery is in the compartment. Good luck.

  Paul Carver



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Steve Boodram]

Happy birthday Dale.
Phone: 1-868-636-3519
Fax: 1-868-679-1001
Mobile: 1-868-730-8377
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question



  Happy Birthday Dale. I do not own one of those talking rulers any 
  chance it could be solar powered? Lee

  -- 
  File cabinet:
  A four drawer, manually activated trash compactor.


   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] debris in concrete.

[Dale Leavens]

Chunks of concrete would be fine so long as it is good not too crumbly. You 
might like to wet it thoroughly before dropping it into the hole.

I would avoid bricks. Most brick doesn't much like being wet and it breaks down 
after a while. Living in a hole in the ground may well cause this to happen. 
There is brick which resists that but mostly you install what is called a damp 
course to separate finish brick from the lowest layers of brick which are 
expected to wick water to protect them from that water. Most brick is fired 
clay or other forms of mud.

Usually steel is another good thing to push into the cement if you have any of 
that laying about. It also adds strength.

Oh yes, you wet the concrete debris for a couple of reasons, to get rid of dust 
and dirt but to keep it from withdrawing too much moisture from the surrounding 
cement so it cures strongly. Brick too will do this.

Hope this helps.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 1:53 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] debris in concrete.


  So, in an effort to avoid having to carry a lot more 80 pound bags of 
  QuikCrete up all the friggin stairs, I would like to dump some debris into 
  the post holes for my deck as I pour them. What is considered valid 
  debris to help take up some of the volume? I assume large rocks are fine. 
  What about chunks of concrete from where I had to break up a sidewalk? 
  How about old bricks if I clean them off? There was a large cement bench 
  in the yard that I dismantled. Can I sledge it into chunks and use it?

  Thanks.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam

[Dale Leavens]

The best way to cut that stuff is with a hot wire but any kind of saw works 
well. I like using an ordinary hand saw about as well as anything but I have 
used a circular saw and my table saw. The sawdust though is difficult stuff, it 
becomes electrically charged and sticks to everything.

Not sure it would help silence your computer though, usually the trouble with 
those fans is the little sleeve bearing. eventually they wear badly enough that 
the fan won't start and you have to push something through the rear vent and 
give it a spin to get it started. The main unit doesn't shake enough to rattle 
on the desk surface usually.

Poly foam usually works a little better because it isn't so rigid. Thing is, 
you never know what might reduce vibration and transmission to other surfaces.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:17 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam


  All:
  I have a PC with a fan that might have come from somebody's vacuum cleaner 
for all the noise it makes, and a dehumidifier that is also very loud. I have 
some Styrofoam sheets that were used as packing material, and thought I might 
place them between the offending equipment and the tabletops the pieces are on.

  First, is this kind of material worth bothering with in terms of 
sound-deadening, and second, what would be a good way to cut the stuff. I was 
thinking about a jig saw at low speed, would that work well?

  Bill Stephan
  Kansas City, MO
  (816)803-2469
  William Stephan



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Meating smoiking link.

[Don]

Hello Dan and list.  The meat smoking audio download follows.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/k42lr3

Regards  Don

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [SPAM] [BlindHandyMan] debris in concrete.

[chiliblindman]

Hello Dan!  I have used a lot of old broken up concrete to fill holes to use 
less concrete.  Old broken-up concrete also works good to set posts for 
leveling before pouring fresh.  You can mix the new stuff a little wet to work 
in easier around the old.  Hosing it down and keeping it wet works just fine 
too since concrete sets up harder under water. 
bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

[Dan Rossi]

Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some rather 
large holes in my backyard for the deck footers.

Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, 
squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the house, 
sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off the 
almost right gremlins.

We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 
AM.  I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level.  This is a set of tubes 
that you connect to either end of a garden hose.  Then you fill the hose 
with water.  When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a 
steady tone.  Great for eventually marking the height of the posts 
relative to the ledger board.

We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot long 
auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the 
whole thing.  Then we found we couldn't get it into the car.  So we 
brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down to 
our house.  He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck.

After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and 
back to the house, we took a quick break.  We then assembled the rig and 
started it up for a test.  We could not keep the thing running.  It's idle 
was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off the 
throttle.  We messed with the choke.  We messed with the idle.  We checked 
the fuel filter.  We checked the oil.  We sent Teresa out to purchase a 
new spark plug.  No joy.  So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn 
thing.

Tom is a big guy, I am not.  I gave him the throttle side, but that left 
me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through the 
entire process.  It was very very hard work.  However, it was a lot easier 
than I expected.  I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders 
wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed.  Nothing like that 
happened.

We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up and 
clear the dirt from the bit.  Of course, the engine would stall and I 
would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole.

Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds.  The engine about 50+ pounds.  and 
an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot.  At first 
it wasn't too bad.  As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn 
thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to one 
side so we could clear the dirt.

After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very happy 
with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes.  We were still in 
relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel.  He convinced me to put the 
eighteen inch extension bar on and drill until we hit clay or something 
hard.  Well, I now have five four and a half foot deep holes in the yard. 
We got down to clay or sand stone in two out of the five holes.  I am 
hoping we are close to that in the other three holes.

Now, imagine hauling a hundred and fifty pounds of auger, engine, and dirt 
from ground level up to your shoulders in a nice smooth motion.  And doing 
it over and over until all the holes were cleared of loose dirt.  I was 
one sore puppy on Sunday.  I have some nice raw spots on the flesh between 
my thumb and forefinger from blisters that broke.

As an aside, a guy I see in the gym locker room regularly, put in a deck 
last year.  We have been sharing stories about decks for a while.  I 
hadn't seen him for a couple of weeks.  I saw him Monday morning.  We 
chatted for a bit, then he saw my hands and said "What the hell did you do 
to your ..  HEY!  You drilled your post holes didn't you?"  He had the 
same exact wounds when he did his.

We covered the holes with plastic and lumber to keep the plastic from 
blowing off.  I called the inspector today and he will inspect my holes 
this afternoon.  I can start pouring any time after today.

I am weeping slightly as I write the following.  Since I planned on 36 
inch deep holes, and I now have 54 inch deep holes, I need fifty percent 
more concrete.  Which means hauling a lot more 80 pound bags up all the 
friggin stairs.

Also, I expect that some of our bags of concrete that over-wintered will 
be useless now.  I hope that some of them will be fine and I will possibly 
dump an extra shovel full of portland cement into each batch if they 
happen to be a bit lumpy.

I am not looking forward to this.

Later.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[BlindHandyMan] debris in concrete.

[Dan Rossi]

So, in an effort to avoid having to carry a lot more 80 pound bags of 
QuikCrete up all the friggin stairs, I would like to dump some debris into 
the post holes for my deck as I pour them.  What is considered valid 
debris to help take up some of the volume?  I assume large rocks are fine. 
What about chunks of concrete from where I had to break up a sidewalk? 
How about old bricks if I clean them off?  There was a large cement bench 
in the yard that I dismantled.  Can I sledge it into chunks and use it?

Thanks.



-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[BlindHandyMan] Styrafoam

[William Stephan]

All:
I have a PC with a fan that might have come from somebody's vacuum cleaner for 
all the noise it makes, and a dehumidifier that is also very loud.  I have some 
Styrofoam sheets that were used as packing material, and thought I might place 
them between the offending equipment and the tabletops the pieces are on.

First, is this kind of material worth bothering with in terms of 
sound-deadening, and second, what would be a good way to cut the stuff.  I was 
thinking about a jig saw at low speed, would that work well?


 Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Paul_Carver]

There is an L-shaped cover located on the opposite end from the opening
where the tape comes out.  If you are facing the back or speaker side of
the unit with the tape port to the left, press on the ridged area along the
right edge and pull away from the unit.  It fits very tight and there is
not much clearance when the battery is in the compartment.  Good luck.

Paul Carver

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Lee A. Stone]

Happy Birthday Dale. I do not own one of those talking  rulers any 
chance it could be solar powered? Lee



-- 
File cabinet:
A four drawer, manually activated trash compactor.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Mike Rusk]

On the back right hand side you will feel raised lines, squeeze and pull, it is 
tight, but it will slide off exposing the battery compartment.  Unless it has 
changed, it is a 9-bolt.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:46 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question


  Good morning,

  Happens it is my birthday. For the curious there is a seven in it somewhere. 
A daughter sent me one of those talking tape measures however I cannot discover 
where the battery goes into it.

  I do see a little flap which adds a little length to the case and the lock 
control and the series of five buttons an screen on the one side but unless the 
screws are to be removed which I rather expect to be for assembling the device 
I don't see a battery compartment.

  Can an owner of this device inform me please?

  Thanks.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Dan Rossi]

Robert wrote:

> Pardon my ignorance but what is resawing. Resawing sounds to me like what
> you do when you don't get it wright in the first place.
>
If that were the case, then I am a resawing expert.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Dale Leavens]

The function of resawing is taking a board and resawing it to thinner planks 
even down to veneer.

Usually one uses a wider blade in a band saw, often this is limited by the saw 
to three quarters of an inch and therefore it is not unusual to have a somewhat 
wavy surface because as you push something through a band saw it tends to 
wander to one side or another. The capacity of the saw is also significant, the 
other problem though being that the higher it is, the more distance for blade 
wander.

This is why I was interested to hear about experience with that Delta 14 inch 
saw, it is a very popular unit and there are thousands of them out there, it is 
said to be a pretty good quality mid range saw.

Hope this helps.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: robert moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:40 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?


  Pardon my ignorance but what is resawing. Resawing sounds to me like what
  you do when you don't get it wright in the first place.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 9:36 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

  I don't know about that.

  I understand that resawing can be a difficult thing to do precisely because
  of the tracking problem. You have to set the fence wide at the out feed side
  and all sorts of things.

  I don't actually know anyone who has done any resawing though and it is
  something I would like to be able to do.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message -
  From: Keith Patterson
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 9:05 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

  Boy I am not the person to ask of resawing. My handful of attempts have
  failed miserably. Don't know if I would blame it on the saw as much as the
  operator. My best one, I didn't like the ripple effect it left on the wood,
  but then again maybe that is just part of resawing, I don't know.
  I have this saw because a neighbor was selling it and I got it for a song.
  Can't endorse it whole heartedly, seems like there ought to be a better
  tracking system then this one has.
  KP
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:55 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

  You will probably have to replace them very frequently, they won't wear
  anything like as well as the synthetic ones. Don't know about heat though,
  hopefully they won't begin to smolder and possibly spread embers to any saw
  dust.

  I have seen third party blocks for that saw on a couple of sites, I think
  maybe Lee valley and possibly house of tools, maybe Rockler but they are a
  bit dear.

  $14.00 doesn't seem all that much to me though if they keep your blade
  tracking well.

  BTW, I have been looking at that saw from a distance, do you do any resawing
  with it? and how well does it perform for cutting down stock if you do?

  Thanks.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message -
  From: Keith Patterson
  To: Blind HandyMan
  Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

  So I have this 14 inch Delta band saw I picked up at a garage sale a few
  years ago. It has 4 blocks of three eighths by three eighths by one inch
  synthetic blocks that keep the blade from twisting too much.
  As they get worn you advance them and now mine need replacing.
  Local Woodcraft store wants $14 for four of these synthetic blocks.
  I refused to pay that.
  Came home and in 20 minutes using a jointer and table saw I had more three
  eights by three eights by one inch wooden blocks then I could shake a stick
  at.
  So, now the question, is there any reason any one can come up with that I
  shouldn't use wood blocks over synthetic blocks to guide my band saw blade?

  Keith Patterson
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [

Nevermind [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Dale Leavens]

Never mind!

I figured it out. Got a battery in the tape measure, figuring it out now.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:46 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question


  Good morning,

  Happens it is my birthday. For the curious there is a seven in it somewhere. 
A daughter sent me one of those talking tape measures however I cannot discover 
where the battery goes into it.

  I do see a little flap which adds a little length to the case and the lock 
control and the series of five buttons an screen on the one side but unless the 
screws are to be removed which I rather expect to be for assembling the device 
I don't see a battery compartment.

  Can an owner of this device inform me please?

  Thanks.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Dale Leavens]

Good morning,

Happens it is my birthday. For the curious there is a seven in it somewhere. A 
daughter sent me one of those talking tape measures however I cannot discover 
where the battery goes into it.

I do see a little flap which adds a little length to the case and the lock 
control and the series of five buttons an screen on the one side but unless the 
screws are to be removed which I rather expect to be for assembling the device 
I don't see a battery compartment.

Can an owner of this device inform me please?

Thanks.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Fw: Shopsmith Woodworking Tips

[Lenny McHugh]

Shopsmith Woodshop Tips

I thought I would forward this for the Shopsmith owners in case they are not 
aware. I do not own a Shopsmith but a friend does and he sends me a few 
forwards. There are often tips on tuning up the Shopsmith. Finally I 
subscribed. There have been a few tips that I used. 
enjoy Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: Woodtip 
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 11:01 PM
Subject: Shopsmith Woodworking Tips


   
   

   
Shopsmith's Woodworking Tips 
Woodshop Tip #260


BELIEVE-IT-OR-NOT --- "Over-sanding can actually be a BAD thing"

Dear Shopsmith Tips Subscriber,

Although you wouldn't think that you could over-sand a project 
before finishing - you'd be wrong. 

Find out why by visiting the link below. 

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/index.htm

Yours for better woodworking,

Bob Folkerth,
Shopsmith - Enriching Lives Through Woodworking!

 
 
   
   
  

To Unsubscribe from Woodshop Tips: 
http://www.woodshoptips.com/unsubscribe.htm

Change your email address at: 
http://www.woodshoptips.com/addresschange.htm
===
(c) Copyright 2007 Shopsmith Inc. All rights reserved
 6530 Poe Ave. Dayton, Oh 45414  
 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?

[Lenny McHugh]

Hmmm! cut it again, it's still too short.
Not really re-sawing is taking a board and cutting it down to two equal 
thickness boards. Or cutting a 1/4" thick slice from the stock. That is what 
I watched Norm cut he took a long1"x8" and made two long 1/4"x8" boards.
Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "robert moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Resawing?


Pardon my ignorance but what is resawing. Resawing sounds to me like what
you do when you don't get it wright in the first place.


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 9:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

I don't know about that.

I understand that resawing can be a difficult thing to do precisely because
of the tracking problem. You have to set the fence wide at the out feed side
and all sorts of things.

I don't actually know anyone who has done any resawing though and it is
something I would like to be able to do.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

- Original Message -
From: Keith Patterson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 9:05 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

Boy I am not the person to ask of resawing. My handful of attempts have
failed miserably. Don't know if I would blame it on the saw as much as the
operator. My best one, I didn't like the ripple effect it left on the wood,
but then again maybe that is just part of resawing, I don't know.
I have this saw because a neighbor was selling it and I got it for a song.
Can't endorse it whole heartedly, seems like there ought to be a better
tracking system then this one has.
KP
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]On
Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:55 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

You will probably have to replace them very frequently, they won't wear
anything like as well as the synthetic ones. Don't know about heat though,
hopefully they won't begin to smolder and possibly spread embers to any saw
dust.

I have seen third party blocks for that saw on a couple of sites, I think
maybe Lee valley and possibly house of tools, maybe Rockler but they are a
bit dear.

$14.00 doesn't seem all that much to me though if they keep your blade
tracking well.

BTW, I have been looking at that saw from a distance, do you do any resawing
with it? and how well does it perform for cutting down stock if you do?

Thanks.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

- Original Message -
From: Keith Patterson
To: Blind HandyMan
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:43 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Band saw guide block issue

So I have this 14 inch Delta band saw I picked up at a garage sale a few
years ago. It has 4 blocks of three eighths by three eighths by one inch
synthetic blocks that keep the blade from twisting too much.
As they get worn you advance them and now mine need replacing.
Local Woodcraft store wants $14 for four of these synthetic blocks.
I refused to pay that.
Came home and in 20 minutes using a jointer and table saw I had more three
eights by three eights by one inch wooden blocks then I could shake a stick
at.
So, now the question, is there any reason any one can come up with that I
shouldn't use wood blocks over synthetic blocks to guide my band saw blade?

Keith Patterson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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