Re: [BlindHandyMan] black decker leaf blower
Dale, SHAME ON YOU!!! Making your better half clear the snow! (chuckle) Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Ethics are so annoying. I avoid them on principle.
Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor
i surely aggree with dale that full stripping is the best and that is what i have done. 4 bathrooms and a large kitchen with good results. i did need help spreading the glue but the rest was blind friendly. i cut the peice and laid it on the dry floor then folded in half, had my wife spread the glue, pressed down the half then do the other side. the large kitchen one i folded in thirds. i will though, after reading the article yesterday, try the new over the old in a small bathroom i was planing on re-doing this winter. i also forgot to mention the article recommended to use a stripper on the old to remove all waxes and coatings.
[BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
Hi It is a yahoo problem and is getting much worse lately. I am on several groups in yahoo and have the same problem. Bruce
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
It's most certainly a Yahoo problem, and unfortunately there is not a thing we can do about it unless we move the list some day. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Cy, that is the great thing about this list, there are people on here who can commiserate with me. People who have made the same mistakes. Helps me to feel a bit less stupid at times. I am all up for going and crying in a beer or two with you. Take it easy. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's
Seem them before and you can get them at most parts places. you get two in the box one red and one green. Most use them on show cars, it makes everything under the hood a bit prettier. At 02:57 PM 9/4/2007, you wrote: Larry, Felt Terminal Pads? I do not recall ever seeing these and they sure did not come with any new battery I have purchased lately. They do sound like a really good idea. Tell me more Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 1:50 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi guys, Just a couple of recommendations about keeping your automotive, boat or RV battery alive. When disconnecting or removing a battery never and I mean never disconnect the positive cable first. You run the risk of striking an arc and taking out a whole bunch of expensive electronics particularly on newer vehicles. Remember disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last. Never coat a battery connection with any kind of Greece. Although Greece in its own right is not a conductor, the dirt and dust particles that adhere to this type of material are. You want a commercially produced battery terminal protectant that dries quickly and hard. I have used clear lacquer in a pinch also if the woman in your life has a sense of humor you can use clear fingernail polish. When servicing or installing a battery make certain the felt terminal pads are fitted over the battery connection point prior to installing the cable. These guys are coated with some kind of secret sauce that will slow down the corrosion process. When removing the battery cable clamp from the battery terminal post never-ever-ever use a pair of pliers to twist off the connector. Once the bolt is loosened up and you can't remove it by rotating it gently by hand hit the local parts house and purchase a battery terminal puller these guys only run a few bucks and can save you a broken post on an $80.00 battery. We haven't even touched on cleaning, testing, cable inspection or replacement. Damn don... You could do an entire show on battery and primary charging systems and still not cover all of the good stuff. -Original Message- From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:02 PM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Good tip. I have all so heard with the newer cars/trucks now days, that you should not give a person a jump start? Any truth too that, are is it BS? Don - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 1:38 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi Don, If i may add one thing here to Geno's great tips. if you are concerned about the battery dieing because of seldom use of a vehicle, Just disconnect the negative terminal. Because you break the current when doing this, there will be no drain from anything. So when you reconnect the terminal the battery will be ready to go. HTH Roger C Bachelder 3rd HYPERLINK mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:40 PM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Geno, some good tips here, thanks for sending them along. I bet working with triple A, you here about just all kinds of auto battery problems. Regards Don - Original Message - From: Geno69 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandym-an%40yahoogroups-.com yahoogroups.-com Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 4:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's I just thought , in not reading all the pieces to the battery issue. A few suggest hints might been order. A: After a battery starts getting in years. This depending on the type of battery. If the car or van or truck is not being used . Like sitting for a two to three week period and especially sitting a month or more. A: if there is instruments hooked up in the dash-board to the battery (older models) the battery is being used by these instruments. B: on the new modern cars, Vans and trucks, especially true with all the instruments hooked up. What is suggested is every three days run the unit for a half period to keep the battery in top working condition. During the winter time it is every other day run it for a half hour. If not using and don't want to bother with turning on the unit and
RE: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works
I have a 1991 Grand Prix. When I try to turn the key, some times the mechanism does not catch. I dont know if it is in the assembly where you put the key in or if it is down in the switch itself down in the steering collumb or the rod that connects the two is bent. The cover on the steering collumb just behind the steering wheel is metal not plastic and I dont see how to remove it to inspect the problem. Does any one know how to remove the inspection cover on this particular car. If I need to replace the Mechanism that the key slides into, is there a tool that I cam buy from a parts house or is that a tool that only the certified mechanics can get for legal reasons. I want to get this car set up for my wife before winter because I have a very nice 1996 Grand AM that is totally rust free and only has about 42,000 miles on it and I would like to preserve it as best as I can, and the winhters up here in Minnesota really raise hell with car bodies. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Cy Selfridge Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 1:53 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works Ray, This is a very good piece of information but I can condense it considerably by simply saying that if you happen to get a hand on a spark plug when the engine is running you may well have to make a quick change of trousers. (ROFL) Anyway, thanks for the article. Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 4:29 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works How the ignition system works Point-type ignition system An automotive ignition system is divided into two electrical circuits -- the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit carries low voltage. This circuit operates only on battery current and is controlled by the breaker points and the ignition switch. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary windings in the coil, the high tension lead between the distributor and the coil (commonly called the coil wire) on external coil distributors, the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, the spark plug leads and the spark plugs. The distributor is the controlling element of the system. It switches the primary current on and off and distributes the current to the proper spark plug each time a spark is needed. The distributor is a stationary housing surrounding a rotating shaft. The shaft is driven at one-half engine speed by the engine's camshaft through the distributor drive gears. A cam near the top of the distributor shaft has one lobe for each cylinder of the engine. The cam operates the contact points, which are mounted on a plate within the distributor housing. A rotor is attached to the top of the distributor shaft. When the distributor cap is in place, a spring-loaded piece of metal in the center of the cap makes contact with a metal strip on top of the rotor. The outer end of the rotor passes very close to the contacts connected to the spark plug leads around the outside of the distributor cap. The coil is the heart of the ignition system. Essentially, it is nothing more than a transformer which takes the relatively low voltage (12 volts) available from the battery and increases it to a point where it will fire the spark plug as much as 40,000 volts. The term coil is perhaps a misnomer since there are actually two coils of wire wound about an iron core. These coils are insulated from each other and the whole assembly is enclosed in an oil-filled case. The primary coil, which consists of relatively few turns of heavy wire, is connected to the two primary terminals located on top of the coil. The secondary coil consists of many turns of fine wire. It is connected to the high-tension connection on top of the coil (the tower into which the coil wire from the distributor is plugged). Under normal operating conditions, power from the battery is fed through a resistor or resistance wire to the primary circuit of the coil and is then grounded through the ignition points in the distributor (the points are closed). Energizing the coil primary circuit with battery voltage produces current flow through the primary windings, which induces a very large, intense magnetic field. This magnetic field remains as long as current flows and the points remain closed. As the distributor cam rotates, the points are pushed apart, breaking the primary circuit and stopping the flow of current. Interrupting the flow of primary current causes the magnetic field to collapse. Just as current flowing through a wire produces a magnetic field, moving a magnetic field across a wire will produce a current. As the magnetic
Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor
The old one lasted 30 years. By the time this one wears out it will be somebody else's problem Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor Yes, You will often see that. It is much cheaper that way. What about when this wears out? Another layer of plywood and another layer of linoleum? Just how high are the ceilings? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:55 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor When we had new vinyl installed in the kitchen, they put down 1/4 inch plywood over the old and sealed the seems with drywall compound. Then the new vinyl went on top. That was how the pros did it. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor hi again. i was not sure about my answer so i checked. if the old flooring is in perfect shape and stuck down firmly every where you can put the new on top. it is best to use a flor leving compound on the old if it has an embossed pattern or it will bleed thru.some new sheet flooring is called tape down and does not need the lever. if the old is peeling, even a little strip it like i said and use the mat or if you want a real nice job then put a layer of 1/4 inch underlayment plywood right over the old. On Tue, 4 Sep 2007, Peter Mikochik wrote: too bad to rip up oldgood condition flooring, but it is usually best. there is a underlayment matting you can use if the exposed flooring is messed up. take the extra time to remove the toilet and vanity. To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Time lag
Compare the time stamp on this message to the one I am replying to. No large time lag today. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Max Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:44 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor The old one lasted 30 years. By the time this one wears out it will be somebody else's problem Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor Yes, You will often see that. It is much cheaper that way. What about when this wears out? Another layer of plywood and another layer of linoleum? Just how high are the ceilings? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:55 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor When we had new vinyl installed in the kitchen, they put down 1/4 inch plywood over the old and sealed the seems with drywall compound. Then the new vinyl went on top. That was how the pros did it. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor hi again. i was not sure about my answer so i checked. if the old flooring is in perfect shape and stuck down firmly every where you can put the new on top. it is best to use a flor leving compound on the old if it has an embossed pattern or it will bleed thru.some new sheet flooring is called tape down and does not need the lever. if the old is peeling, even a little strip it like i said and use the mat or if you want a real nice job then put a layer of 1/4 inch underlayment plywood right over the old. On Tue, 4 Sep 2007, Peter Mikochik wrote: too bad to rip up oldgood condition flooring, but it is usually best. there is a underlayment matting you can use if the exposed flooring is messed up. take the extra time to remove the toilet and vanity. To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information:
[BlindHandyMan] Permission to post?
I have an article I think may be interesting Who do I send it to for an answer as to whether or not It should be posted. Robert
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's
The truth is the computer could take a hit from a static charge when first tried. The best way is to use a lone battery. Let it sit hooked up for a few minutes and then give the starter a try. once its going then unhook. At 12:02 AM 9/4/2007, you wrote: Good tip. I have all so heard with the newer cars/trucks now days, that you should not give a person a jump start? Any truth too that, are is it BS? Don - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 1:38 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi Don, If i may add one thing here to Geno's great tips. if you are concerned about the battery dieing because of seldom use of a vehicle, Just disconnect the negative terminal. Because you break the current when doing this, there will be no drain from anything. So when you reconnect the terminal the battery will be ready to go. HTH Roger C Bachelder 3rd mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:40 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Geno, some good tips here, thanks for sending them along. I bet working with triple A, you here about just all kinds of auto battery problems. Regards Don - Original Message - From: Geno69 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 4:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's I just thought , in not reading all the pieces to the battery issue. A few suggest hints might been order. A: After a battery starts getting in years. This depending on the type of battery. If the car or van or truck is not being used . Like sitting for a two to three week period and especially sitting a month or more. A: if there is instruments hooked up in the dash-board to the battery (older models) the battery is being used by these instruments. B: on the new modern cars, Vans and trucks, especially true with all the instruments hooked up. What is suggested is every three days run the unit for a half period to keep the battery in top working condition. During the winter time it is every other day run it for a half hour. If not using and don't want to bother with turning on the unit and running it for period of time, because, the price of gas. Especially if going to sit for a long period of time. This means a month or more. First off make sure that the gas tank is full and dropping as suggested or recommended dry gas to the full tank of gas. Then disconnect and remove the battery and place on a wooden block away from a cement wall and keep off a cement floor! Keeping it in a semi warm or warm room When ready can take it back out and install and of course some of the instruments will have to be reset. The two cables and the clamps that go on the positive and negative poles should be wrapped up with something that won't attract moisture, keeping them dry. Sometimes even suggesting Vaseline. If one doesn't know how to do this task, then, either find someone that does for removing or and installing the battery. If not leave well enough alone. Just know one will need to have a jump start. If there is white power around the positive and negative poles this means that they need to be cleaned and there might be other issues to look at. Again if a person knows what to do. Removing the clamps and cleaning them and the poles or some clamps to clamp and fasten too. A simple thing as baking soda and little water can clean the battery and the connecter clamps. Sometimes recommend a light course sand paper to clean. Just a thought. Geno [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Tim trouble Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance. --Sam Brown Blindeudora list owner. To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Time lag
Yes that's something we have to deal with is all. Once last year it took around 36 hours to post a message on another Yahoo group. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 10:51 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Time lag Compare the time stamp on this message to the one I am replying to. No large time lag today. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Max Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:44 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor The old one lasted 30 years. By the time this one wears out it will be somebody else's problem Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor Yes, You will often see that. It is much cheaper that way. What about when this wears out? Another layer of plywood and another layer of linoleum? Just how high are the ceilings? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:55 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor When we had new vinyl installed in the kitchen, they put down 1/4 inch plywood over the old and sealed the seems with drywall compound. Then the new vinyl went on top. That was how the pros did it. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]Laying A New Linolium Floor hi again. i was not sure about my answer so i checked. if the old flooring is in perfect shape and stuck down firmly every where you can put the new on top. it is best to use a flor leving compound on the old if it has an embossed pattern or it will bleed thru.some new sheet flooring is called tape down and does not need the lever. if the old is peeling, even a little strip it like i said and use the mat or if you want a real nice job then put a layer of 1/4 inch underlayment plywood right over the old. On Tue, 4 Sep 2007, Peter Mikochik wrote: too bad to rip up oldgood condition flooring, but it is usually best. there is a underlayment matting you can use if the exposed flooring is messed up. take the extra time to remove the toilet and vanity. To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address:
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's
For those who insist upon jump starting a vehicle here is a tip. Connect the positive booster cable clamps to the positive battery terminal, first making absolutely certain your connection is clean and solid ant that they are not touching any metal. Secondly hook the negative booster cable clamp to a solid metal under-hood bracket or support. This can not be a painted surface and it must be bolted to the engine. Bring the RPM up to about 2,000 revs on the host vehicle and attempt to start the guest vehicle. If the vehicle successfully starts remove the negative cables from both vehicles and then remove the positive cables from their respective batteries. Also in common use is a device called a booster box, basically it is a 12 volt jell cell battery, positive and negative clamp connectors on short lengths of high quality low resistance cable and a trickle charger all built into a carrying case. It will charge the jell cell off of 110/AC or a 12 Volt vehicle power adapter and they hook up the same way as described above. I saw one in harbor freight for about $40.00 but keep in mind you get what you pay for. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trouble Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 6:42 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Seem them before and you can get them at most parts places. you get two in the box one red and one green. Most use them on show cars, it makes everything under the hood a bit prettier. At 02:57 PM 9/4/2007, you wrote: Larry, Felt Terminal Pads? I do not recall ever seeing these and they sure did not come with any new battery I have purchased lately. They do sound like a really good idea. Tell me more Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] groups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 1:50 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] roups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi guys, Just a couple of recommendations about keeping your automotive, boat or RV battery alive. When disconnecting or removing a battery never and I mean never disconnect the positive cable first. You run the risk of striking an arc and taking out a whole bunch of expensive electronics particularly on newer vehicles. Remember disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last. Never coat a battery connection with any kind of Greece. Although Greece in its own right is not a conductor, the dirt and dust particles that adhere to this type of material are. You want a commercially produced battery terminal protectant that dries quickly and hard. I have used clear lacquer in a pinch also if the woman in your life has a sense of humor you can use clear fingernail polish. When servicing or installing a battery make certain the felt terminal pads are fitted over the battery connection point prior to installing the cable. These guys are coated with some kind of secret sauce that will slow down the corrosion process. When removing the battery cable clamp from the battery terminal post never-ever-ever use a pair of pliers to twist off the connector. Once the bolt is loosened up and you can't remove it by rotating it gently by hand hit the local parts house and purchase a battery terminal puller these guys only run a few bucks and can save you a broken post on an $80.00 battery. We haven't even touched on cleaning, testing, cable inspection or replacement. Damn don... You could do an entire show on battery and primary charging systems and still not cover all of the good stuff. -Original Message- From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com ] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:02 PM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Good tip. I have all so heard with the newer cars/trucks now days, that you should not give a person a jump start? Any truth too that, are is it BS? Don - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 1:38 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi Don, If i may add one thing here to Geno's great tips. if you are concerned about the battery dieing because of seldom use of a vehicle, Just disconnect the negative terminal. Because you break the current when doing this, there will be no drain from anything. So when you reconnect the terminal the battery will be ready to go. HTH Roger C Bachelder 3rd HYPERLINK mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's
Cy, I'm surprised, even those cheepy Wal-Mart batteries supply them. You might have to ask the hero behind the counter for them but they are definitely out their. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trouble Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 6:42 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Seem them before and you can get them at most parts places. you get two in the box one red and one green. Most use them on show cars, it makes everything under the hood a bit prettier. At 02:57 PM 9/4/2007, you wrote: Larry, Felt Terminal Pads? I do not recall ever seeing these and they sure did not come with any new battery I have purchased lately. They do sound like a really good idea. Tell me more Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] groups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 1:50 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] roups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi guys, Just a couple of recommendations about keeping your automotive, boat or RV battery alive. When disconnecting or removing a battery never and I mean never disconnect the positive cable first. You run the risk of striking an arc and taking out a whole bunch of expensive electronics particularly on newer vehicles. Remember disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last. Never coat a battery connection with any kind of Greece. Although Greece in its own right is not a conductor, the dirt and dust particles that adhere to this type of material are. You want a commercially produced battery terminal protectant that dries quickly and hard. I have used clear lacquer in a pinch also if the woman in your life has a sense of humor you can use clear fingernail polish. When servicing or installing a battery make certain the felt terminal pads are fitted over the battery connection point prior to installing the cable. These guys are coated with some kind of secret sauce that will slow down the corrosion process. When removing the battery cable clamp from the battery terminal post never-ever-ever use a pair of pliers to twist off the connector. Once the bolt is loosened up and you can't remove it by rotating it gently by hand hit the local parts house and purchase a battery terminal puller these guys only run a few bucks and can save you a broken post on an $80.00 battery. We haven't even touched on cleaning, testing, cable inspection or replacement. Damn don... You could do an entire show on battery and primary charging systems and still not cover all of the good stuff. -Original Message- From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com ] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:02 PM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Good tip. I have all so heard with the newer cars/trucks now days, that you should not give a person a jump start? Any truth too that, are is it BS? Don - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 1:38 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Hi Don, If i may add one thing here to Geno's great tips. if you are concerned about the battery dieing because of seldom use of a vehicle, Just disconnect the negative terminal. Because you break the current when doing this, there will be no drain from anything. So when you reconnect the terminal the battery will be ready to go. HTH Roger C Bachelder 3rd HYPERLINK mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com ] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:40 PM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] ogroups.-com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's Geno, some good tips here, thanks for sending them along. I bet working with triple A, you here about just all kinds of auto battery problems. Regards Don - Original Message - From: Geno69 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandym-an%40yahoogroups-.com yahoogroups.-com Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 4:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries: Car's/Van's I just thought , in not reading all the pieces to the battery issue. A few suggest hints might been order. A: After a battery starts getting in years. This depending on the type of battery. If the car or van or truck is not being used . Like sitting for a two to three week period and
[BlindHandyMan] RE: robert ignition issue
I am not sure exactly on how to remove the cover on your 91 Pontiac, most have two screws coming up from the bottom. The screws are recessed in to deep holes. After the screws are out, the cover should come off the bottom and the top. You may need to remove some of the control knobs, like the 4 way flasher knob. yes, you can buy all the tools you need to remove the key cylinder from the parts store; a steering wheel puller and a lock plate puller. My guess is that the problem is in the ignition switch, down on the top of the steering column under the dash. the reason for my guess is because the key cylinder turns freely when it is not connected to anything. It is the ignition switch that gives the points at which the key stops. IF the rod was bent, the key would still turn like it is suppose to, but the points at which it stops would be off, resulting in the key not turning far enough to engage the starter. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 09:43 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works I have a 1991 Grand Prix. When I try to turn the key, some times the mechanism does not catch. I dont know if it is in the assembly where you put the key in or if it is down in the switch itself down in the steering collumb or the rod that connects the two is bent. The cover on the steering collumb just behind the steering wheel is metal not plastic and I dont see how to remove it to inspect the problem. Does any one know how to remove the inspection cover on this particular car. If I need to replace the Mechanism that the key slides into, is there a tool that I cam buy from a parts house or is that a tool that only the certified mechanics can get for legal reasons. I want to get this car set up for my wife before winter because I have a very nice 1996 Grand AM that is totally rust free and only has about 42,000 miles on it and I would like to preserve it as best as I can, and the winhters up here in Minnesota really raise hell with car bodies. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Cy Selfridge Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 1:53 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works Ray, This is a very good piece of information but I can condense it considerably by simply saying that if you happen to get a hand on a spark plug when the engine is running you may well have to make a quick change of trousers. (ROFL) Anyway, thanks for the article. Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 4:29 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works How the ignition system works Point-type ignition system An automotive ignition system is divided into two electrical circuits -- the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit carries low voltage. This circuit operates only on battery current and is controlled by the breaker points and the ignition switch. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary windings in the coil, the high tension lead between the distributor and the coil (commonly called the coil wire) on external coil distributors, the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, the spark plug leads and the spark plugs. The distributor is the controlling element of the system. It switches the primary current on and off and distributes the current to the proper spark plug each time a spark is needed. The distributor is a stationary housing surrounding a rotating shaft. The shaft is driven at one-half engine speed by the engine's camshaft through the distributor drive gears. A cam near the top of the distributor shaft has one lobe for each cylinder of the engine. The cam operates the contact points, which are mounted on a plate within the distributor housing. A rotor is attached to the top of the distributor shaft. When the distributor cap is in place, a spring-loaded piece of metal in the center of the cap makes contact with a metal strip on top of the rotor. The outer end of the rotor passes very close to the contacts connected to the spark plug leads around the outside of the distributor cap. The coil is the heart of the ignition system. Essentially, it is nothing more than a transformer which takes the relatively low voltage (12 volts) available from the battery and
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Talking light tester
Hi Lenny, What a great idea! Thanks for the tip. Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:25 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking light tester Hi Roger, I don't know if one is made but it should be fairly simple to modify one. If you are talking about the one that has an alligator clip on one end and the probe that looks like an ice pick it isn't too difficult. Just take a 12v flasher or the music flasher and wire it in series with the alligator clip. The regular flasher will click. you could make one with a 12v buzzer or backup single. - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:bachelder3%40verizon.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 8:17 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking light tester Hi Guys, I'm looking to purchase a negative / positive talking light tester. Do they make such a tool? And if so, Where can i find one? Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio. http://acbradio.org/handyman.html org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws- http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking light tester
roger, Not sure what you mean by a negative positive talking light tester Are you wanting to test circuits for continuity or voltage, or to test light bulbs or what? There are continuity and voltage testers that use tones which is often better than speech cause it's faster. There is a talking DMM digital multi-meter if you need more exact measurements of voltage, current resistance and so on. Please be more specific so we can help. Tom Fowle Rehab Engineer Smith-Kettlewell RERC
[BlindHandyMan] Planning Your Fence Project
One of the all-time great spring and summer projects is building a fence. Fences define your space, accent your home, and can do wonders to dress up the exterior of your property. They are also relatively easy, offer a wide range of design opportunities, and provide lots of personal satisfaction at the end of the weekend. If a new fence might be on your list of projects this year, there are a few preliminary considerations to research prior to buying any lumber: * If the fence will be on the dividing line between two properties, do you know exactly where the property lines are? Research city or county property records, talk with your neighbours, and even hire a surveyor if necessary. * Are there any restrictions you need to know about? Some municipalities and homeowner's associations have rules about heights, design, materials, and other aspects of fence building, so check with all the local authorities first. * Have you talked to your neighbours? There's an old adage that good fences make good neighbours, so discuss your design ideas and intentions with adjacent property owners prior to getting started. Design Ideas Abound There are literally hundreds of ways to design and construct a fence, so once you have the preliminaries out of the way, the fun can really begin. With so many possibilities out there, you might want to take the time to drive around different neighbourhoods and get ideas, visit your local lumber yard or home centre, and maybe grab a fencing book or two at your local library or book store. Here are a few suggestions: * Split rail: Split-rail fencing is easy to build and looks great even as it weathers. In the traditional, Abe Lincoln style, 8-foot long rails simply stack on top of one another, with the rows of rails laid out in slightly alternating angles to give the fence stability. A more updated version uses short, predrilled posts set in the ground, with the rails then slipped into the holes. Split-rail fences are especially well suited for low, decorative fences up to about 3 feet in height. * Open rail: Open-rail fencing is another easy and attractive fence. Use 4x4 square or 4-inch round pressure-treated posts set in the ground, and then construct the fence using 2x6 lumber nailed horizontally to the face of the posts, with approximately 6 to 10 inches of space between the rails. Open-rail fencing makes a nice decorative low fence, or can be built up to about 5 feet high for horses and other animals. For dogs and other smaller animals, you can add a wire mesh over the rails. Open-rail fences look really great painted white, but they require periodic maintenance. You might also consider using brown pressure-treated 2x6 rails, which cost a little more initially but are more attractive and weather much better then standard fir lumber. Another alternative is white or colored vinyl fencing, which has the same open-rail look with virtually no maintenance. * Picket Fences: Picket fences offer some wonderful design and decoration possibilities for creating a low fence. Traditionally, narrow boards - called pickets - with pointed, angled, or other decorative tops or cutouts, are installed vertically over horizontal rails. The boards have a space between them that is equal to approximately one-half to one full-board width, and the fence is typically painted white. There are lots of pre-cut wood and vinyl pickets available, or you can make your own out of any suitable lumber. * Solid Fences: This is the traditional backyard fence, typically 5 feet in height and with solid fencing to provide privacy. Ideas abound for this type of fence, but the basic design includes round metal or 4x4 pressure-treated wood posts set in concrete approximately 6 to 8 feet apart, horizontal rails of cedar or pressure-treated 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, and vertical or diagonal cedar or treated lumber fence boards. Many lumberyards carry pre-built fence sections, which include the rails and fence boards and are simply attached to posts set in the ground. * Good-Neighbour Fences: A variation of the solid fence, good neighbour fences are designed to be equally attractive from both sides - an especially important consideration if you're sharing the cost of the fence with a neighbouring property owner. With the traditional style of solid fence board attached to rails, you can simply alternate the fence boards so that one section faces your property, and the next section faces your neighbour's, etc. Another variation utilizes posts and rails that have a slot running down the centre. The fence boards fit into the slots, locking them firmly in place and cantering them between the posts so that the fence looks the same on both sides. Fences of this type, with the slotted 2x4 rail, can have a tendency to sag between the posts, so a short post extending down vertically from the centre of each rail will do wonders to keep the fence sturdy and attractive over time.
[BlindHandyMan] Fence Questions and Answers
Fences Q. Can I put 4+4 post in concrete, if there are cinders under the post? I'm concerned that over time the cinders will deteriorate, causing the post to settle. Because it is a freestanding deck, I wasn't concerned about putting the posts below the frost line, but would having some posts over cinders and some over clay soil cause problems when the ground freezes? A. You can go with pressure-treated lumber rated for below ground installation and concrete if necessary. You probably need to run your deck plans past your local building inspector. Many areas require permits for decks and special requirements for tying deck to structure and baluster placement. Q. I'm getting ready to build a fence around my new pool. I have a question about fence pickets. What types of pickets work best and will last the longest here in the southern San Joaquin Valley: cedar, pine, or redwood? A. Cedar or redwoods for the pickets, take your pick. Pressure treated wood or redwood will work for the rails, it's your choice. These ones will last the longest compared to anything else you can use. And, since it's around a pool, all of the pickets have to be on the outside of the fence, so that it will meet the code requirement of being no climb, and it has to be 6' tall. Q. Which is better: Two-man power auger vs. digging the holes manually? From what I've heard about the two-man power auger, it's still a lot of work lifting that bear up and clearing out the hole. Since I'll probably have to buy a skinny shovel to help with that anyway, does it make sense for the DIYer to just buy one of those two-stick hole diggers and get to work? A. The power auger is worth the while, if you want to dig a lot of holes in a hurry. The machine is not too heavy, and the hole is clean when you finish. Posthole diggers are good exercise for the shoulders. It depends upon your soil. If it is hardpan, the auger will be great. If the soil is loamy to some extent, the posthole diggers will be sufficient. Q. If I go with metal posts and the collar things, how does this give the cross members of a fence enough support? A. Your posts are 8' apart. A 16' 2x4 or 2x6 will attach to three posts. If you number the posts from one end to the other, have the top rail break on the even numbered posts and the bottom rail break on the odd numbered posts or vice versa. If you are still concerned about strength, add a center rail. Q. I'd like to add on to my existing 4' cedar fencing to enclose the entire backyard for the safety of my children. Professionals providing a quote told me that they only put in the hole what comes out of the hole with the exception of the gatepost, where they use quick crete. Even though the posts are pressure treated, would you still recommend sealing with creosote? A. Creosote has been outlawed in many areas because of its toxicity. The pressure-treated posts should work fine. Make sure you buy pressure treated lumber for below grade usage. You can anchor the posts more firmly by making the holes slightly larger at the bottom than at the top. Place a large stone or two shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole. This provides drainage to avoid excessive moisture at the base of each post. If using pressure treated lumber, then you will not need to treat with wood preservative the section below ground. You can pack the posts with either dirt or concrete. In either case, place two or three shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole before the post is placed into position. After checking alignment of posts, posts can be staked into position until concrete has set. Posts can be readjusted. Once properly aligned soil around posts needs to be tamped. Once post is properly aligned, build a mound of soil around it to provide run off of rain. It is recommended that posts stand several days and settle firmly in position before adding the fence. Heads of posts should be rounded, capped, or slanted to provide run off of rain in order to avoid decay. Q. What's the best way to install a fence along a property line, when you can't connect the ends? I know where my corners are, but there isn't a clear path along the entire line. I've got about 125-150' of clear area, and then it's woods. I only want about 100' or so of fence at this point. How can I make the fence follow the line? What do you think the surveyor would charge to come drop a marker at the midpoint of each side of the lot? A. There are no straight lines in nature. Fences will take some turns. Just make sure you don't place fence on neighbor's property. A survey will be necessary to assure the fence is on your property. If you live in a zoned, urban area, the heights of fences and placement along property lines tend to be dictated by Building Codes. If so, you will need to check in with building inspector and get the proper permit. Q. I just bought a house that has a fenced in yard with chain link fencing. The bottom of the fence is curling upward in places and
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
Maybe consider moving the list over to Google groups, as their voice response for video activation is accessible, and they seam to be more proactive. Many groups I have belonged to over the years have moved over to Google. Jeff Kisecker -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:27 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery It's most certainly a Yahoo problem, and unfortunately there is not a thing we can do about it unless we move the list some day. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
Wow, I'll be darned! Bruce's reply came within one fetch cycle of my original post. Maybe things are getting better! Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia - Original Message - From: bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:09 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Hi It is a yahoo problem and is getting much worse lately. I am on several groups in yahoo and have the same problem. Bruce
[BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets
Hi, We sent an old refrigerator to wherever old refrigerators go to die. As I considered trying to figure out how much electricity the old one used compared to what the new one will use I began to wonder if there's such a thing as a meter you can plug into an outlet and then plug something into the meter to find out how much electricity is being used. Is there such a thing? Ralph [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
We considered it a while back but google groups has been having some major issues of late as well. The door isn't closed on moving the thing some fine day, at least not yet for sure. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Jeff Kisecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:37 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Maybe consider moving the list over to Google groups, as their voice response for video activation is accessible, and they seam to be more proactive. Many groups I have belonged to over the years have moved over to Google. Jeff Kisecker -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:27 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery It's most certainly a Yahoo problem, and unfortunately there is not a thing we can do about it unless we move the list some day. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets
There was a watt hour meter project in popular electronics back in the 70s I think. Sorry I can't do any better than that. I don't know how it could be adapted for the blind. It's not enough to measure the current. You need to compare the phase with the voltage to get actual power. Then it has to be accumulated over time to get total energy consumed. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Ralph Supernaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets Hi, We sent an old refrigerator to wherever old refrigerators go to die. As I considered trying to figure out how much electricity the old one used compared to what the new one will use I began to wonder if there's such a thing as a meter you can plug into an outlet and then plug something into the meter to find out how much electricity is being used. Is there such a thing? Ralph [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets
Ralph, It would be called an A.C. amp meter and is perfectly possible, however I don't know of an off the shelf unit that will do what you want let alone one that is blind accessible. There are things called clamp amps that have a fitting that goes around a single wire from an A.C. cord, this will plug into most DMM's like the talking DMM talked about on this list. This means it is not actually electrically connected to the A.C. lines and so safer. the talking meter measures A.C. current but not to the number of amps you need for something like an appliance. I don't know why somebody doesn't make such a device, maybe they do and I just havn't seen it yet. You'd think it would be a big seller. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets
Max is, of course correct, an amp meter would give you a fair approximation but you really need a wat hour meter. I'm sure they can be bought, I'll look around, maybe there is one with a serial port to hook to a computer. Tom
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Beall Website - http://www.bealltool.com The Tilt box Review Setting up machinery for accurate cutting has always been an ongoing, and sometimes time consuming and painful task, but for fine woodwork where accuracy is paramount, it is a very necessary evil. The woodworker had to have an array of angle setting tools, including squares, gauges and other sorts of paraphernalia to attempt to get that machine cutting the perfect angles need for the job. And then there was the problem of whether your squares and angle measuring tools themselves were accurate, but that's a whole other story! Now a new age of low-cost, high accuracy digital angle gauges are hitting the market, promising fast machine setups with minimal fuss. We will be looking at several on this site, but the first unit we tested was the Tilt Box by the Beall Tool Company. The Beall Tilt Box When I first saw this product advertised, I was quite excited. Setting up tools, particularly the table saw and miter saw for accurate beveled cuts is not the easiest and quickest thing in the world to do, and it is even more difficult when the bevel angle you need is not a common 45 degree. Also, I have also never trusted the hard stop on my table saw trunnion mechanism to always bring me back to 90 degrees (square to the table) after moving it from that setting. The Tilt Box measures 2 3/8 wide, 2 3/8 high and about 1 3/8 deep. It is an all metal body that feels solid and could probably take a few knocks without causing any damage. But naturally, a precision device needs to be well looked after, so hopefully any knocks are purely accidental! The Tilt Box is powered by a standard 9v battery, so there is no need to deal with specialized batteries or battery chargers (unless of course you use rechargeable 9v batteries like I do). But you can always have a spare battery on hand so there is no reason for any down time when using or needing to use the tool. A groovy little Philips head screwdriver comes packaged in the box to allow you to access the battery compartment for battery changes. The front face features a large LCD display which is easily visible and readable from just about any angle. There are only two control buttons on the tool, an ON/OFF button, and a Zero button, which means it is very easy to use (as all good tools should be). I hear you say this is no good for a blind person, but I bring you these tool reviewsso you know what is available then it is up to you if you buy one or not. Ray The Tilt Box is a digital inclinometer, which through some nice electronic gadgetry included inside, allows the user to measure an angle relative to true zero degrees, but it also allows the user to measure angles relative to a zeroed reference surface, which some dial inclinometers cannot do. On each side of the tool are a set of powerful rare earth magnets which grab onto anything metal (including your saw blades and machine fences - unless the fences are aluminum) meaning the unit can sit securely on the blade or fence faces to provide hands free checking. The Tilt box is very accurate, and can decipher angles up to 0.05 degree resolution. This should ensure near perfect angle/bevel setups on a variety of machines. So let's look at how the Tilt Box actually works. Measuring an Angle Using the Tilt Box is very simple. Let's take a table saw setup for example. Firstly to check your blade is square to the table at the 0 degree setting, you first place the Tilt Box on the table surface next to or close to the blade. Hit the Zero button and the Tilt Box zeroes itself, essentially assigning the table a zero degree value. Now you attach the Tilt Box to the blade (raised up on course) using the magnets on the side of the Tilt Box. Ensure the box is sitting on the body of the blade and not resting on any teeth etc. The value on the LCD display will settle after a second or two to provide an accurate reading of the blades angle. If it also reads zero degrees, then the blade is square to the table. The bevel indicator scale on most table saws are not terribly accurate. I mean, they will get you to close to being square at the zero setting, but I found my blade was still off about 0.20 of a degree. May not seem like much, but if you are cutting bevels for an 8 or 12 sided form, those small inaccuracies add up quick around the entire diameter. And besides, if you have invested money in decent machines to undertake more precise cuts with better accuracy and finish, why should you settle for anything less than perfect? Ok, so I discovered my saw blade is not always returning to dead square according to the Tilt Box (even though my bevel scale says it is) so I made a few adjustments to the stop mechanism to remedy this for future cuts. Of course, double checking with the Tilt Box will verify the angle too, and it only takes a second to do. Now, say you want to set the blade at an odd angle, or even a perfect 22.5 degree common angle. You simply follow the same
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets
There are units available for $20-$40 that will give volt amp and accumulated volt amp hours on a LCD screen. Haven't seen one that gives watts and watt hours but the cheap ones can give a good comparison for what you are after. Last time I saw a good price was on newegg.com, but I have seen the same unit other places. Tony -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Supernaw Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:59 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric meter for outlets Hi, We sent an old refrigerator to wherever old refrigerators go to die. As I considered trying to figure out how much electricity the old one used compared to what the new one will use I began to wonder if there's such a thing as a meter you can plug into an outlet and then plug something into the meter to find out how much electricity is being used. Is there such a thing? Ralph [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
If Phil's blind horse list is an example of how good googlegroups is, avoid it like the plague! Jewel - Original Message - From: Jeff Kisecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 9:37 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Maybe consider moving the list over to Google groups, as their voice response for video activation is accessible, and they seam to be more proactive. Many groups I have belonged to over the years have moved over to Google. Jeff Kisecker -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:27 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery It's most certainly a Yahoo problem, and unfortunately there is not a thing we can do about it unless we move the list some day. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/989 - Release Date: 4/09/07 5:54 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How Much Power Do Appliances Use ?
How Much Energy Do Appliances Use? Some household appliances have a bigger appetite for energy than others, and it's helpful to identify the major culprits. By monitoring what appliances are on at any given time and keeping an eye on your electric meter, you can track changes in your household's energy usage. Air-Conditioning Set at 78º Does not operate continuously; cycles on and off as called for by the thermostat Central Air 800 sq. ft. $1.50 per day 1200 sq. ft. $2.24 per day 1600 sq. ft. $3.01 per day 2000 sq. ft. $3.75 per day Room Air Unit 1 ton, 12,000 BTU $1.17 per day 2 ton, 24,000 BTU $2.33 per day Electric Heating Set at 70º Does not operate continuously; cycles on and off as called for by the thermostat Electric Resistance 800 sq. ft. $1.50 per day 1200 sq. ft. $2.50 per day 1600 sq. ft. $3.32 per day 2000 sq. ft. $4.16 per day Electric Heat Pump 800 sq. ft. 64¢ per day 1200 sq. ft. $1.25 per day 1600 sq. ft. $1.67 per day 2000 sq. ft. $2.08 per day Portable electric heater 11¢ per hour Electric Water Heater Does not include water used for dishwashing or clothes washing Electric Resistance Family of two 50¢ per day Each additional person 16¢ per day Water Heating Heat Pump Family of two 24.5¢ per day Each additional person 8¢ per day Refrigeration Does not operate continuously; cycles on and off as called for by the thermostat Freezer 16 cu. ft., manual defrost 24¢ per day 16 cu. ft., automatic defrost 30¢ per day Refrigerator/Freezer 18 cu. ft., automatic defrost 45¢ per day 24 cu. ft., automatic defrost 62¢ per day Kitchen Appliances Coffee maker, brew cycle 1¢ per cycle Coffee maker, warming .5¢ per hour Deep fat fryer 5.5¢ per hour Food mixer 1¢ per hour Frying pan 6.5¢ per hour Oven self-cleaning cycle 23.5¢ per cleaning Range-top burner 7.5¢ per hour Toaster 7.5¢ per hour Cleaning Laundry Dishwasher, including hot water costs 23.5¢ per load Iron 5.5¢ per hour Vacuum cleaner 5.5¢ per hour Clothes dryer 50¢ per hour Clothes Washer, including water heating costs Hot wash/hot rinse 43¢ per load Warm wash/cold rinse 10¢ per load Cold wash/cold rinse 3¢ per load Small Appliances Clock 11.25¢ per month Dehumidifier 4¢ per hour Hair dryer 7.5¢ per hour Portable or ceiling fan .5¢ per hour Pool or lawn pump (.5hp) 5¢ per hour Entertainment Home computer .5¢ per hour Radio .5¢ per hour Cassette or CD player 1¢ per hour Color television 2¢ per hour VCR, not including cost of running tv 2.75¢ per 10 hours If you want to learn how to read Your Meter check out this URL Below http://www.ouc.com/account/readmeter.htm ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking light tester
Roger, I am not sure what you are looking for. One thing that I have is a commercially available DC audible test light. It has a pointed probe and no additional wires. The round case that the probe sticks out of is metal and inside there are two batteries, a buzzer and a light on top. When the probe is touched to a DC source and your body is touching a good ground the light turns on and the buzzer sounds. Yes the tool works through the human body. This is great for one handed testing for DC power. The batteries are for sounding the buzzer and lighting the light. I think the range is something like 0.5 or 1 volt to 25 volts. I think the price is around $19.00, it is quite a while ago that I got mine. Art - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 8:17 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking light tester Hi Guys, I'm looking to purchase a negative / positive talking light tester. Do they make such a tool? And if so, Where can i find one? Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
That's the plan at this time. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Jewel Blanch To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 7:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery If Phil's blind horse list is an example of how good googlegroups is, avoid it like the plague! Jewel - Original Message - From: Jeff Kisecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 9:37 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Maybe consider moving the list over to Google groups, as their voice response for video activation is accessible, and they seam to be more proactive. Many groups I have belonged to over the years have moved over to Google. Jeff Kisecker -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:27 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery It's most certainly a Yahoo problem, and unfortunately there is not a thing we can do about it unless we move the list some day. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/989 - Release Date: 4/09/07 5:54 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Permission to post?
Robert in case you haven't goten a answer yet, either Dave, are me. [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: robert moore To: Blind Handyman Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:58 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Permission to post? I have an article I think may be interesting Who do I send it to for an answer as to whether or not It should be posted. Robert [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery
Hi all, We looked into Googlegroups for some of our lists but did not like the lack of some controls. Now, what is this blind horse list about? Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:11 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery That is know lie. We tried Google groups, for a while, on some other groups. They were just really bad. I'll take yahoo, and it's some times problems, any day over Google groups. Don - Original Message - From: Jewel Blanch To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery If Phil's blind horse list is an example of how good googlegroups is, avoid it like the plague! Jewel - Original Message - From: Jeff Kisecker To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 9:37 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Maybe consider moving the list over to Google groups, as their voice response for video activation is accessible, and they seam to be more proactive. Many groups I have belonged to over the years have moved over to Google. Jeff Kisecker -Original Message- From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:27 AM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery It's most certainly a Yahoo problem, and unfortunately there is not a thing we can do about it unless we move the list some day. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Obvious Lag In E-Mail Delivery Does anybody else notice a huge lag time between the time a post is sent out and when it is received back in your own email folders? I sent a reply to the Black Decker Leaf Blower thread at 8:30 yesterday morning and I just received it at 1:30 this morning. Why the 17 hour delay? I suppose this is a question for the moderator more than the group, but I'm just wondering if anybody is noticing lags of this nature when they send replies? - Bill Gallik E-Mail: HYPERLINK mailto:wfgallik%40centurytel.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] - The easiest thing to be in the world is you. The most difficult thing to be is what other people want you to be. Don't let them put you in that position. - Leo Buscaglia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/989 - Release Date: 4/09/07 5:54 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] range question
I'm considering getting a double oven range. Any suggestions on which ones are the best? I want to go with electric at 30 inches wide. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] Blind auto racing. Car and Driver artical
The following is the article that appeared in the September Issue of Car and Driver Magazine. Hope you all enjoy it. Blind Driving: Eye Rock 500 The Lame Leading the Blind: At a country track in upstate New York, the sightless get a chance to do their Dale Jr. impressions. By TONY QUIROGA, PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG JAREM CARandDRIVER.com Eye Rock 500 See the Eye Rock 500 Photos Here After declaring the Eye Rock 500 -- a race in which blind drivers and sighted co-drivers compete on an oval dirt track -- to be a definite winner in Winners and Losers in our January 2007 10Best issue, editor-at-large John Phillips decided competing in the race would be an excellent way to demonstrate to our readers that the people who write for C/D never mature past the age of 17. When the annual race in upstate New York changed dates, Phillips, in a fortunate stroke of self-preservation, found himself unavailable and on vacation in Montana. And so it fell on my narrow shoulders to be the Car and Driver chump, which is why I found myself strapped into a car with a completely blind man going wheel-to-wheel against 10 other blind drivers. Now in its seventh year, the Eye Rock 500 was dreamed up by the crew at radio station WPYX 106 in Albany, New York, as a fundraiser for Camp Abilities, a week-long summer camp for blind children that encourages their participation in sports and activities (biking, swimming, gymnastics, beep baseball -- the bases and the ball beep) not traditionally associated with the sightless. In addition to the cash donated by Eye Rock 500 sponsors, the camp collects $1 from each $12 race ticket. Since its founding in 1996, the organization has expanded to include camps in five states, with two more planned for next year. Interestingly, this year the radio station ended its association with the event, apparently after corporate overlords had a closer look and determined that the race had lawsuit written all over it. On the other hand, we rarely ask permission of our corporate overlords to do anything, and hence our involvement. More Autos Stories Other auto articles from CARandDRIVER.com: list of 5 items 10Best: Winners and Losers 2007 One Lap of America A Trip to Burning Man School Bus Figure-Eight Racing Oregon Greenies Go Drag Racing list end The Eye Rock is a kind of novelty event held as part of a Saturday-night racing card at a half-mile country track, Lebanon Valley Speedway, in West Lebanon, New York. On this balmy 90-degree night in early June, a boisterous crowd of nearly 6000 has settled into the old wooden bleachers, and folks are in a festive if not rowdy mood for a night of racing that includes Modified, Sportsman, and Prostock classes. Wedged into these contests will be two Eye Rock qualifying races before the finale. The dirt track has tight, highly banked corners (17 to 19 degrees), which climb upward like walls, and flat straightaways about an eighth of a mile long. The track's Hudson River clay surface has been watered and groomed by large tanker trucks all afternoon. Eventually, the surface dries, and after some warm-up laps, it becomes, as one driver put it, wicked tacky. Imagine a huge gooey clay ashtray that smells like a weird mix of racing gas and hot dogs. A half-hour before the race, organizers round up the 40 or so Eye Rock entrants in the infield and begin pairing up drivers and navigators. In hopes of avoiding a rollover or hitting a wall at 70 mph, I sheepishly ask of organizers Don Doherty and Link Pettit to avoid being partnered with anyone who has Wild, Crazy, or Danger in his or her nickname. Moments later, outgoing 20-year-old Shawna Kane and her father walk over and introduce themselves. Blind since birth, Kane is college-bound this fall but is back to compete in her second Eye Rock after a disheartening DNF last year due to car trouble. I wonder to myself if she knows she's pressing her luck by running twice in the Eye Rock. Eye Rock 500 See the Eye Rock 500 Photos Here A word about blindness. The legally blind have severely limited vision, but they are able to see something -- light, hazy images, movement. The truly blind are completely in the dark. The laws of this country declare that people who have at least 20/200 vision with corrective glasses are legally blind (20/200 vision means a person sees at 20 feet away what a person with normal sight would see from 200 feet). About a third of Eye Rock's drivers qualify as legally blind, an obvious advantage. We find last year's winner, 60-year-old George Bolton, in hopes he'll spill the secret of his victory. Bolton stopped driving in 2001 when macular degeneration rendered him legally blind. His vision continues to deteriorate, and now he sees only hazy shadows. As for his victory, he says his sighted navigator, Howard The Ice Man Smith, told me to put it to the floor unless I tell you to stop. So how does a sighted navigator -- that would be me -- give driving directions to a blind driver? By mimicking
RE: [BlindHandyMan] RE: robert ignition issue
Thank you for those pointers The more I think about it, the reason I was thinking it may be the key cilender is that it seems to have a lot of play in it. You can move it in and out more than I would expect you should. I might just go check out a tool for pulling the cilender but first I suppose I should look at the ignition switch to make sure that it is working properly. supose -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 11:21 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] RE: robert ignition issue I am not sure exactly on how to remove the cover on your 91 Pontiac, most have two screws coming up from the bottom. The screws are recessed in to deep holes. After the screws are out, the cover should come off the bottom and the top. You may need to remove some of the control knobs, like the 4 way flasher knob. yes, you can buy all the tools you need to remove the key cylinder from the parts store; a steering wheel puller and a lock plate puller. My guess is that the problem is in the ignition switch, down on the top of the steering column under the dash. the reason for my guess is because the key cylinder turns freely when it is not connected to anything. It is the ignition switch that gives the points at which the key stops. IF the rod was bent, the key would still turn like it is suppose to, but the points at which it stops would be off, resulting in the key not turning far enough to engage the starter. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 09:43 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works I have a 1991 Grand Prix. When I try to turn the key, some times the mechanism does not catch. I dont know if it is in the assembly where you put the key in or if it is down in the switch itself down in the steering collumb or the rod that connects the two is bent. The cover on the steering collumb just behind the steering wheel is metal not plastic and I dont see how to remove it to inspect the problem. Does any one know how to remove the inspection cover on this particular car. If I need to replace the Mechanism that the key slides into, is there a tool that I cam buy from a parts house or is that a tool that only the certified mechanics can get for legal reasons. I want to get this car set up for my wife before winter because I have a very nice 1996 Grand AM that is totally rust free and only has about 42,000 miles on it and I would like to preserve it as best as I can, and the winhters up here in Minnesota really raise hell with car bodies. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Cy Selfridge Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 1:53 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works Ray, This is a very good piece of information but I can condense it considerably by simply saying that if you happen to get a hand on a spark plug when the engine is running you may well have to make a quick change of trousers. (ROFL) Anyway, thanks for the article. Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 4:29 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How the Car's Ignition System Works How the ignition system works Point-type ignition system An automotive ignition system is divided into two electrical circuits -- the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit carries low voltage. This circuit operates only on battery current and is controlled by the breaker points and the ignition switch. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary windings in the coil, the high tension lead between the distributor and the coil (commonly called the coil wire) on external coil distributors, the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, the spark plug leads and the spark plugs. The distributor is the controlling element of the system. It switches the primary current on and off and distributes the current to the proper spark plug each time a spark is needed. The distributor is a stationary housing surrounding a rotating shaft. The shaft is driven at one-half engine speed by the engine's camshaft through the
