[BlindHandyMan] Product Recall
Name of Product: Crafters Square Hot Melt Mini Glue Guns Units: About 253,000 Retailer: Dollar Tree Stores Inc., of Chesapeake, Va. Importer: Greenbrier International Inc., of Chesapeake, Va. Hazard: The recalled glue guns can short circuit, causing the gun to smoke and catch fire. This poses fire, burn and shock hazards to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Dollar Tree is aware of seven incidents in which these glue guns short circuited resulting in two injuries, including electrical shock and burns. Description: The glue guns dispense hot glue and are intended for craft projects. The recalled glue gun is black with a yellow trigger and is approximately 4 1/2 inches from the back of the gun to the tip. Attached is a 44-inch electrical cord. "Crafters Square" and product number 818261-72 or 818261-75 are located on the guns' packaging. Manufactured in: China Sold at: Dollar Tree, Dollar Bill$, Dollar Express, Greenbacks, Only One $1, and Deal$ stores nationwide from February 2007 through August 2007 for about $1. Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled glue guns and return them to the store where purchased for a full refund. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Dollar Tree Stores Inc. at (800) 876-8077 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's Web site at www.dollartree.com
[BlindHandyMan] How to Iliminate Saw Blade Burn
When ripping hardwoods (such as oak) on your table saw or radial-arm saw, you may notice that the saw blade has a tendency to leave burn marks on the stock. How can you get rid of these saw blade burns? While there are a few different methods for getting rid of them, the best solution is not to get them in the first place. In How to Eliminate Saw Blade Burns, we provide a list of items to check on your saw to lessen the chance that you'll burn your stock, as well as a couple of methods for cleaning up the stock if you do get a saw blade burn on your wood. I was recently speaking with another woodworker who was building a woodworking project with oak, but was getting a lot of saw blade burns on the oak after cutting with his table saw. He wanted some tips for cleaning up the saw blade burns. While it isn't all that difficult to get rid of saw blade burns, such as the one on the image below, it's better not to get the burn marks in the first place. How? Begin by checking your saw blade. Make sure that the blade is sharp, clean and free of pitch. A dull blade will slow the rate at which the stock can be pushed through the saw. Pushing the stock through the saw too slowly is a common cause of saw blade burn. Next, check the alignment of your saw blade. If the blade is not perfectly parallel to your fence, you're more likely to get burning. While you're at it, check your splitter (behind the blade) and make sure it is perfectly aligned with the blade and parallel to the fence. Without a splitter, the two halves your wood stock may be inclined to pinch together behind the cut, binding against the blade and causing burns. If you have burns on your stock that you need to remove, you can try sanding them out, but you might have a bit more luck using a wood plane or a sharp, flat scraper. However, if you make the proper adjustments to your saw before you begin the project, you'll decrease the chances that you'll have to deal with saw blade burns.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts
Thanks best idea yet. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:57 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts does the mrs, have a cloth measuring tape? Are the belts greased? Tape the start of the measuring tape to the belt and send it around, when the head touches back, it could be read for you. Sorry if that doesn't work. On Mon, 28 Jan 2008, Bob Kennedy wrote: > Take your belt to an automotive store. Most of them have a little tool, > well not so little, it's about 4 feet long. Anyway it has a stationary > rounded end and a sliding rounded end. You just set the belt over the 2 > ends and pull the ends away from each other. When all the slack is gone a > pointer tells how long the belt is. Mine was from Gates but I'm sure there > are others out there. > > Or, if you can get someone to look at the belt there is usually some writing > on the side somewhere. Pay attention to the brand and the group of numbers. > You can probably find a cross reference chart for the numbers online. > - Original Message - > From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Blind Handyman" > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:11 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts > > >> Well, I decided to upgrade the two belts on my drill press. Strange but >> Grizzly can not tell me what length power twist belts to purchase. They >> think a 5' 3l belt will be enough to replace both belts. They suggested >> that >> I first measure it. >> What I thought about doing to measure the belts would to tape a string to >> the belt and rotate it until it comes around. then tie it together and cut >> next to the knot. Then I can measure the length of the string. I would do >> this for both belts but I suspect that they are the same length. Is there >> a >> better way to measure the belts? >> I want to make sure that I purchase a twist belt long enough they are too >> expensive to make a mistake. A 5' 3l from Grizzly will be a little over >> $40 >> with shipping and tax. >> I found a website that sells it by the foot but I can't read it. Twice it >> crashed my system when I attempted to locate the price. >> Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ >> It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. >> >> >> >> To listen to the show archives go to link >> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html >> or >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ >> >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday >> >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various >> List Members At The Following address: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ >> >> Visit the archives page at the following address >> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ >> >> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following >> address for more information: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/ >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man >> list just send a blank message to: >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list > just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] removing vinyl flooring
This is interesting. I watched part of a diy program where they were removing vinyl flooring. They purchased about 5£ of dry ice. Placing it on small areas of the floor it broke down the glue. The vinyl lifted up and brought almost all of the glue. It was a real neat trick. Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan's Basement Level Problem
Dan. I've been wondering. How are you going to get the 400 pound pig out of the basement? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:29 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan's Basement Level Problem > Ray, > > thanks for taking a look. Much appreciated. Don't know if you guys have > anything like this in Australia, but we have a show on TV here called > Extreme Makeover Home Edition. They have a huge crew of people who, in > one week, come in, knock down a house, and build a completely new, > decorated, house in that one week. > > I think it would be awesome to do that, but only with a blind crew. > Granted, we probably wouldn't try to do it in a week, but how cool would > it be for the sighted community to see a crew of blind guys build a house > from scratch. > > Anyway, I was just thinking about it again when you said that it would be > better if you could get your hands on my basement to see what it looked > like. I thought maybe I should have all you guys over for a visit and we > could take care of all my little house projects at once. *GRIN* > > Later. > > -- > Blue skies. > Dan Rossi > Carnegie Mellon University. > E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.15/1249 - Release Date: > 1/29/2008 9:51 AM > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tools, Their Real Use
I would like to redefine and rename one. drop light, Something left behind by sighted people to act as a branding iron for us blind people. Art - Original Message - From: Gil Laster To: Post to Blind Handyman Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 8:02 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tools, Their Real Use A friend sent me this: So, think you know what the real use of certain tools are? Well let's see if you really know DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Yeow~crap~" ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or ½ socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Also used to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Us
[BlindHandyMan] Here are methods for troubleshooting common heat pump problems:
No heat Most heating system failures are caused by thermostat malfunctions, a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, or--in the case of combustion furnaces--a pilot light that has gone out. If the heat doesn't come on even when you adjust the thermostat to a setting above room temperature: 1) Be sure the thermostat is set to "Heat" (if yours is a heating and cooling system). If it isn't, turn it to "Heat." 2) Be sure the furnace's circuit breaker is on or that its fuse has not blown. Check both the main electrical panel and any secondary sub-panels that supply power to the unit. If the circuit has blown or tripped, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse. If the circuit blows again, there is a probably a short in the electrical system providing power to the furnace. Call an electrical contractor. 3) Be sure the heat pump's power switch is turned on; it is usually located next to or inside the furnace cabinet. If it isn't on, turn it on and wait a few minutes for the air handler to engage. 4) The motor may need to be reset because of an overload. Look for a RESET button near the blower motor's housing and, if you find one, press it. If nothing happens, wait about 30 minutes for the motor to cool, then try the RESET button again. 5) Turn off the power to the heat pump at the main electrical panel or sub-panel. Look for a fuse in the power switch. If there is one there, it may have blown. Replace the fuse (be sure to follow instructions in your owner's manual). If you don't have an owners's manual or are not clear about what it will take to do this, call a heating repair technician. 6) Check the heat pump's ignition, according to the owner's manual. 7) If it still doesn't work, be sure the thermostat isn't faulty (see below). 8) If none of this works, call a heating contractor or heat pump repair technician. Insufficient heat If your heat pump runs and provides some heat but not enough, be sure nothing is blocking the flow of warm air. 1) First be sure the thermostat is set properly. Try raising the set temperature 5 degrees and waiting a few minutes. 2) Be sure the room heating registers are open. 3) Check the heat pump filter. If it's dirty, change it . 4) If these simple steps don't work, have a heat pump repair technician check out your system--either the blower isn't working properly or the system is out of balance. Heat pump trips circuit breaker Most heat pumps have auxiliary heating elements that provide heat when the weather gets really cold because the heat pump's efficiency drops too low. These elements automatically turn on at a fairly low temperature: around 20 degree F. When they come on, they may be drawing too much power, which trips the circuit breakers. Just locate the circuit breaker that serves the heat pump and reset it. Heat pump turns on and off too often If your heat pump cycles off and on too frequently, the problem is likely to be with the thermostat. See the thermostat-related problems below for information on repairing this problem. When a heat pump turns off and on too frequently, the problem may be that the unit is overheating because of a clogged filter or blower that is malfunctioning. Try cleaning or replacing the filter. If that doesn't do the trick, call a heat pump repair technician. Major room temperature swings When room temperatures swing more than about 3 degrees between when the heat pump goes off and on again, it generally means that the heat pump isn't cycling on often enough. See "How to Adjust the Heat Anticipator." Room temperature goes either too high or too low When room temperature rises higher or drops lower than the set temperature on the thermostat, it usually means that the thermostat is improperly calibrated or installed where it doesn't sense a proper sampling of room air. See Thermostats Report. Blower runs continuously This may be caused by two things: the thermostat mounted on the wall or the limit switch located on the heat pump just below the plenum (the box that distributes heated air to all of the ducts). The limit switch is designed to shut off the heat pump if the air in the plenum gets too hot. Check the thermostat to see if the "Fan" switch has been turned on. If it has, turn it to "Off" or to "Auto." If it is set to "Off" or "Auto" already, the heat pump's limit switch must be adjusted. Call a heat pump repair technician to adjust the limit switch or, if you are handy with this type of repair, follow the instructions in your owner's manual to reset the pointers on the fan side of the limit control. The lower pointer should be set to about 90 degrees F and the upper one should be at about 115 degrees F. Air handler squeals Squealing sounds from a forced-air heat pump generally occur when the belt that connects the motor to the fan slips. If the blower is making a grinding noise, shut off the unit and call a heat pump repair technician --the motor's bearings are probably shot. In most cases, the belt is improperly aligne
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts
I am not sure about the accuracy. Grizzly told me to measure the belts to make sure that a 5' piece would be long enough for both belts. I really did not want to remove them until I was ready to replace although it is really an option. I didn't want to remove them because of difficulty raising my arms. Some days I can and others I need help combing my hair. The reason that I want to replace is to eliminate vibration. I want to drill some very fine holes and there is too much quill travel due to vibration. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 10:34 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts Lenny, How accurate do you need to be with measuring these belts? You are just trying to see if the one, long, adjustable belt is long enough to cover for the two current belts. Can't you just stretch the belts out as much as possible, with as small a radius at the two ends, measure the length, and double it plus a hair more? Won't that get you close enough? Or do you really need eighth inch accuracy? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] leveling your basement floor
Dan, I am sure that you would be able to build a raised suspended floor. The one concern that I have would to make sure that you have some ventilation under the suspended floor. Not sure but it may be a great environment for that ugly mold to grow. Hope that I am incorrect in my thinking. One other thought. If you were to have some sighted help for part of the project. Get a lazar level that will place a line on all walls. Position the line so that is right even with the highest point of the room. Then use some of the perforated drain line and make water pathways to the existing floor drain. Then extend the floor drain up past the level line. Now fill in everything as suggested with crushed stone. When level use pressure treated or metal studs for the floor joist. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] leveling your basement floor Cliff, I like both of your ideas. *GRIN* Thanks. I imagine that I will need some combination of peers of varying heights supporting floor joists. I am thinking that I may use 2X4 boards on their flat sides, with a number of peers supporting each 2X4. With enough peers, the 2X4 would be rigid enough. the other possibility I have been kicking around is tracing the profile of the floor slope onto a 2X8 or 2X10 then having a sightling cut the profile for me. I will definitely plan on using a trap door of some kind and having a water alarm. I have had one water issue in the basement but I am pretty sure that water in this basement is not a chronic issue. The basement is mostly above grade. There are large windows that are all two to three feet above the ground outside. Several of my neighbors have partly finished their basements, but no one has done a very good job of it. I would really like to make a truly usable room down there. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts
Lenny, How accurate do you need to be with measuring these belts? You are just trying to see if the one, long, adjustable belt is long enough to cover for the two current belts. Can't you just stretch the belts out as much as possible, with as small a radius at the two ends, measure the length, and double it plus a hair more? Won't that get you close enough? Or do you really need eighth inch accuracy? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan's Basement Level Problem
Ray, thanks for taking a look. Much appreciated. Don't know if you guys have anything like this in Australia, but we have a show on TV here called Extreme Makeover Home Edition. They have a huge crew of people who, in one week, come in, knock down a house, and build a completely new, decorated, house in that one week. I think it would be awesome to do that, but only with a blind crew. Granted, we probably wouldn't try to do it in a week, but how cool would it be for the sighted community to see a crew of blind guys build a house from scratch. Anyway, I was just thinking about it again when you said that it would be better if you could get your hands on my basement to see what it looked like. I thought maybe I should have all you guys over for a visit and we could take care of all my little house projects at once. *GRIN* Later. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] leveling your basement floor
Cliff, I like both of your ideas. *GRIN* Thanks. I imagine that I will need some combination of peers of varying heights supporting floor joists. I am thinking that I may use 2X4 boards on their flat sides, with a number of peers supporting each 2X4. With enough peers, the 2X4 would be rigid enough. the other possibility I have been kicking around is tracing the profile of the floor slope onto a 2X8 or 2X10 then having a sightling cut the profile for me. I will definitely plan on using a trap door of some kind and having a water alarm. I have had one water issue in the basement but I am pretty sure that water in this basement is not a chronic issue. The basement is mostly above grade. There are large windows that are all two to three feet above the ground outside. Several of my neighbors have partly finished their basements, but no one has done a very good job of it. I would really like to make a truly usable room down there. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts
You, don't wont to cut them. What you do is stretch them out and measure them if you can not read the measurement use a piece of string or wood and mark it or cut it to length and send them. The other option is to send the belts to them. Oh don't forget to put a letter in with any of these suggestion so they know what is going on. A phone call to them and getting a contact person will be helpful also. Now all of that being said you might be able to take your belts down to your local auto parts center and they may be able to match something up. Just my thoughts. Hope this is some what helpful. Peawee [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:37 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts If you aren't going to use the old belts anymore, cut them, stretch them out, and measure them. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Blind Handyman" Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 9:11 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts > Well, I decided to upgrade the two belts on my drill press. Strange but > Grizzly can not tell me what length power twist belts to purchase. They > think a 5' 3l belt will be enough to replace both belts. They suggested > that > I first measure it. > What I thought about doing to measure the belts would to tape a string to > the belt and rotate it until it comes around. then tie it together and cut > next to the knot. Then I can measure the length of the string. I would do > this for both belts but I suspect that they are the same length. Is there > a > better way to measure the belts? > I want to make sure that I purchase a twist belt long enough they are too > expensive to make a mistake. A 5' 3l from Grizzly will be a little over > $40 > with shipping and tax. > I found a website that sells it by the foot but I can't read it. Twice it > crashed my system when I attempted to locate the price. > Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ > It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.14/1247 - Release Date: > 1/28/2008 10:59 AM > > To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts
does the mrs, have a cloth measuring tape? Are the belts greased? Tape the start of the measuring tape to the belt and send it around, when the head touches back, it could be read for you. Sorry if that doesn't work. On Mon, 28 Jan 2008, Bob Kennedy wrote: > Take your belt to an automotive store. Most of them have a little tool, > well not so little, it's about 4 feet long. Anyway it has a stationary > rounded end and a sliding rounded end. You just set the belt over the 2 > ends and pull the ends away from each other. When all the slack is gone a > pointer tells how long the belt is. Mine was from Gates but I'm sure there > are others out there. > > Or, if you can get someone to look at the belt there is usually some writing > on the side somewhere. Pay attention to the brand and the group of numbers. > You can probably find a cross reference chart for the numbers online. > - Original Message - > From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Blind Handyman" > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:11 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts > > >> Well, I decided to upgrade the two belts on my drill press. Strange but >> Grizzly can not tell me what length power twist belts to purchase. They >> think a 5' 3l belt will be enough to replace both belts. They suggested >> that >> I first measure it. >> What I thought about doing to measure the belts would to tape a string to >> the belt and rotate it until it comes around. then tie it together and cut >> next to the knot. Then I can measure the length of the string. I would do >> this for both belts but I suspect that they are the same length. Is there >> a >> better way to measure the belts? >> I want to make sure that I purchase a twist belt long enough they are too >> expensive to make a mistake. A 5' 3l from Grizzly will be a little over >> $40 >> with shipping and tax. >> I found a website that sells it by the foot but I can't read it. Twice it >> crashed my system when I attempted to locate the price. >> Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ >> It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. >> >> >> >> To listen to the show archives go to link >> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html >> or >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ >> >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday >> >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various >> List Members At The Following address: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ >> >> Visit the archives page at the following address >> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ >> >> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following >> address for more information: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/ >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man >> list just send a blank message to: >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list > just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press belts
can't think of a better way, but try that website again and try to locate their phone or contact On Mon, 28 Jan 2008, Lenny McHugh wrote: > Well, I decided to upgrade the two belts on my drill press. Strange but > Grizzly can not tell me what length power twist belts to purchase. They > think a 5' 3l belt will be enough to replace both belts. They suggested that > I first measure it. > What I thought about doing to measure the belts would to tape a string to > the belt and rotate it until it comes around. then tie it together and cut > next to the knot. Then I can measure the length of the string. I would do > this for both belts but I suspect that they are the same length. Is there a > better way to measure the belts? > I want to make sure that I purchase a twist belt long enough they are too > expensive to make a mistake. A 5' 3l from Grizzly will be a little over $40 > with shipping and tax. > I found a website that sells it by the foot but I can't read it. Twice it > crashed my system when I attempted to locate the price. > Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ > It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list > just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >
