[BlindHandyMan] disposal
Well, as this freezer is toast, whom should I call to dispose of it? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
Hello, What is tuck pointing? We're being told that this has to be done to our basement because there are cracks along the walls, and water is seeping in. If we don't do this, the house or foundation could begin to sink in? Is this correct? Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] disposal
I haven't been following this topic so you may have had input that I am repeating. If you are going to purchase a new one, many times the appliance delivery folks will take yours away. Sometimes it is worth paying for the delivery to get rid of the old one. At 08:10 PM 7/20/2008, you wrote: Well, as this freezer is toast, whom should I call to dispose of it? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
This is a method of restoring your mortor joints. The old loose mortor is removed and fresh mortor is tucked back in place with a (you guessed it) a tucking tool. Then the joint is smoothed off with a mortor joint tool to give it a nice smooth rounded appearance. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 02:44 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Hello, What is tuck pointing? We're being told that this has to be done to our basement because there are cracks along the walls, and water is seeping in. If we don't do this, the house or foundation could begin to sink in? Is this correct? Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] disposal
as Betsy stated you can have the company that delivers a new one to remove it for you or if there any teenagers in your area you can have them take it to a scrap yard and allow them to keep any funds they are paid for the scrap as here I was talking to a appliance delivery guy this is how he disposes of as many as twenty dishwashers a week just a low cost idea good luck Allen Dunbar - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:14 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] disposal I haven't been following this topic so you may have had input that I am repeating. If you are going to purchase a new one, many times the appliance delivery folks will take yours away. Sometimes it is worth paying for the delivery to get rid of the old one. At 08:10 PM 7/20/2008, you wrote: Well, as this freezer is toast, whom should I call to dispose of it? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
Yep, tuck pointing is when they grind out the mortar between bricks and then pack in new mortar. It is a very labor intensive job, messy, and none too cheap. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer
Thanks and I actually thought of this. However, I've decided I will make a throat plate for my table saw since it seems those buggers are kind of expensive if I do go this route. tnx On Jul 20, 2008, at 5:40 AM, John Schwery wrote: Scott, if possible, I would use a table saw for any dado joints. You will need a dado blade stack or many cuts with a regular saw blade. With a router, if doing a dado across the grain, it can be a torn up mess. I have done them using a router table but I haven't tried it with an edge guide, yet. I could do it with a temporary fence if I had enough room for the fence. earlier, Scott Howell, wrote: WOw, you guys are filling my head with all kinds of interesting stuff. So, it seems the one advantage of a dado cut is you can use the saw and keep stuff really straight. I assume you can do this of course equally as well with a router and an edge guide. Of course I don't have a dado stack or the proper throat plate yet for my saw, but you did give me yet another idea and I'll post on that shortly. Thanks for the additional info, I'm filing these away. Maybe I can consolidate the various ways and Dave could put them on the site. Might be helpful to some folks in the future. On Jul 19, 2008, at 9:20 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote: Hi Scott, Well Dale described making drawers several great ways. I did see a set of drawer locking router bits. I accomplished the same by using my table saw and using a 1/4 stacked dado blade. I first made a 1/4x1/4 dado cut around the bottom of the front and side pieces of the drawer. While the saw was set up this way I also made a front and rear dado cut on both side pieces. I then moved the fence so that I could make a 1/4x1/4 rabbet cut along the height of the front and rear panels. For the front panel this cut is on the opposite side of the dado cut. I then made the rear panel 1/2 shorter than the other pieces. On the inside of the front panel, same side as the dado I drilled 2 holes with a pocket hole bit and made the pocket 1/4 deep. This is really not necessary, I just did not want the screw heads to show. For assembly I used glue on and inside the vertical dado cuts and slid the back and bottom pieces in place. I was careful to make sure that the rear panel was not lower than the 1/4 dado in the sides. I used a band clamp to hold all of the sides together and used a tape measure to make sure it was square. If square the opposite diagonals will be the same length. when the glue was dry I slid in the bottom of the drawer and tacked it in place at the back panel. I left the drawer bottom float in the front and side panels. Incidentally the drawer sides were all made from 1/2 stock. I cheated in mounting the drawer front. I put the drawer in place and made sure it could go back about 1/2. I placed two small pieces of double faced tape on the front of the drawer. I then carefully held the drawer front over the opening and centering it. Holding it in place I reached under and pulled the drawer until it made contact with the tape. The tape temporarily held the drawer front in place. Using two F clamps to hold it tight I used two 1 screws to hold the front on. If I would have used 3/4 stock, I would have used a 1/4 dado for the bottom and 3/8 dados for the drawer construction. This is just one other way to make the drawer and add to your confusion. Lenny - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:32 PM Subject: Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer Tom, that is a fine idea and I think that would work quite well. Appreciate the plans. I already know that the counter top I got has a rounded edge that hangs a little low from the actual top. So basically I'm going to add some wood to make up for that for my keyboard tray and also for the side pieces when I mount the drawer. Hey, this is going to work great. Btw, in case anyone wants to know, you can purchase the counter tops in such a way to already have those 45- degree angles which is what I meant, but I kept saying 90-degree so just ignore me. grin On Jul 19, 2008, at 10:15 AM, Tom Hodges wrote: Scott, I recently built a workbench and made the top from a piece of scrap kitchen countertop with Formica on it. I will just address building the drawer, because the way I built it was very simple. The face plate on the workbench below the front edge of the countertop was a 1 x 6, which is 5 ½ high. I built the drawer by cutting the opening the face plate before I assembled the workbench. The opening for the
Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer
If it helps, I have made many hundreds of various widths of dado cuts by making multiple passes with a standard table saw blade. Although this can take a little time for a single groove it is often quicker than disassembling the saw and shimming out a dado set. The floor of the dado isn't usually quite as flat as it might be but glue fills that if necessary. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 6:12 PM Subject: Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer Thanks and I actually thought of this. However, I've decided I will make a throat plate for my table saw since it seems those buggers are kind of expensive if I do go this route. tnx On Jul 20, 2008, at 5:40 AM, John Schwery wrote: Scott, if possible, I would use a table saw for any dado joints. You will need a dado blade stack or many cuts with a regular saw blade. With a router, if doing a dado across the grain, it can be a torn up mess. I have done them using a router table but I haven't tried it with an edge guide, yet. I could do it with a temporary fence if I had enough room for the fence. earlier, Scott Howell, wrote: WOw, you guys are filling my head with all kinds of interesting stuff. So, it seems the one advantage of a dado cut is you can use the saw and keep stuff really straight. I assume you can do this of course equally as well with a router and an edge guide. Of course I don't have a dado stack or the proper throat plate yet for my saw, but you did give me yet another idea and I'll post on that shortly. Thanks for the additional info, I'm filing these away. Maybe I can consolidate the various ways and Dave could put them on the site. Might be helpful to some folks in the future. On Jul 19, 2008, at 9:20 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote: Hi Scott, Well Dale described making drawers several great ways. I did see a set of drawer locking router bits. I accomplished the same by using my table saw and using a 1/4 stacked dado blade. I first made a 1/4x1/4 dado cut around the bottom of the front and side pieces of the drawer. While the saw was set up this way I also made a front and rear dado cut on both side pieces. I then moved the fence so that I could make a 1/4x1/4 rabbet cut along the height of the front and rear panels. For the front panel this cut is on the opposite side of the dado cut. I then made the rear panel 1/2 shorter than the other pieces. On the inside of the front panel, same side as the dado I drilled 2 holes with a pocket hole bit and made the pocket 1/4 deep. This is really not necessary, I just did not want the screw heads to show. For assembly I used glue on and inside the vertical dado cuts and slid the back and bottom pieces in place. I was careful to make sure that the rear panel was not lower than the 1/4 dado in the sides. I used a band clamp to hold all of the sides together and used a tape measure to make sure it was square. If square the opposite diagonals will be the same length. when the glue was dry I slid in the bottom of the drawer and tacked it in place at the back panel. I left the drawer bottom float in the front and side panels. Incidentally the drawer sides were all made from 1/2 stock. I cheated in mounting the drawer front. I put the drawer in place and made sure it could go back about 1/2. I placed two small pieces of double faced tape on the front of the drawer. I then carefully held the drawer front over the opening and centering it. Holding it in place I reached under and pulled the drawer until it made contact with the tape. The tape temporarily held the drawer front in place. Using two F clamps to hold it tight I used two 1 screws to hold the front on. If I would have used 3/4 stock, I would have used a 1/4 dado for the bottom and 3/8 dados for the drawer construction. This is just one other way to make the drawer and add to your confusion. Lenny - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:32 PM Subject: Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer Tom, that is a fine idea and I think that would work quite well. Appreciate the plans. I already know that the counter top I got has a rounded edge that hangs a little low from the actual top. So basically I'm going to add some wood to make up for that for my keyboard tray and also for the side pieces when I mount the drawer. Hey, this is
Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer
Ok, thanks that is good to know and sounds pretty easy to try. If nothing else, it would be cheaper all the way around. On Jul 21, 2008, at 6:35 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: If it helps, I have made many hundreds of various widths of dado cuts by making multiple passes with a standard table saw blade. Although this can take a little time for a single groove it is often quicker than disassembling the saw and shimming out a dado set. The floor of the dado isn't usually quite as flat as it might be but glue fills that if necessary. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 6:12 PM Subject: Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer Thanks and I actually thought of this. However, I've decided I will make a throat plate for my table saw since it seems those buggers are kind of expensive if I do go this route. tnx On Jul 20, 2008, at 5:40 AM, John Schwery wrote: Scott, if possible, I would use a table saw for any dado joints. You will need a dado blade stack or many cuts with a regular saw blade. With a router, if doing a dado across the grain, it can be a torn up mess. I have done them using a router table but I haven't tried it with an edge guide, yet. I could do it with a temporary fence if I had enough room for the fence. earlier, Scott Howell, wrote: WOw, you guys are filling my head with all kinds of interesting stuff. So, it seems the one advantage of a dado cut is you can use the saw and keep stuff really straight. I assume you can do this of course equally as well with a router and an edge guide. Of course I don't have a dado stack or the proper throat plate yet for my saw, but you did give me yet another idea and I'll post on that shortly. Thanks for the additional info, I'm filing these away. Maybe I can consolidate the various ways and Dave could put them on the site. Might be helpful to some folks in the future. On Jul 19, 2008, at 9:20 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote: Hi Scott, Well Dale described making drawers several great ways. I did see a set of drawer locking router bits. I accomplished the same by using my table saw and using a 1/4 stacked dado blade. I first made a 1/4x1/4 dado cut around the bottom of the front and side pieces of the drawer. While the saw was set up this way I also made a front and rear dado cut on both side pieces. I then moved the fence so that I could make a 1/4x1/4 rabbet cut along the height of the front and rear panels. For the front panel this cut is on the opposite side of the dado cut. I then made the rear panel 1/2 shorter than the other pieces. On the inside of the front panel, same side as the dado I drilled 2 holes with a pocket hole bit and made the pocket 1/4 deep. This is really not necessary, I just did not want the screw heads to show. For assembly I used glue on and inside the vertical dado cuts and slid the back and bottom pieces in place. I was careful to make sure that the rear panel was not lower than the 1/4 dado in the sides. I used a band clamp to hold all of the sides together and used a tape measure to make sure it was square. If square the opposite diagonals will be the same length. when the glue was dry I slid in the bottom of the drawer and tacked it in place at the back panel. I left the drawer bottom float in the front and side panels. Incidentally the drawer sides were all made from 1/2 stock. I cheated in mounting the drawer front. I put the drawer in place and made sure it could go back about 1/2. I placed two small pieces of double faced tape on the front of the drawer. I then carefully held the drawer front over the opening and centering it. Holding it in place I reached under and pulled the drawer until it made contact with the tape. The tape temporarily held the drawer front in place. Using two F clamps to hold it tight I used two 1 screws to hold the front on. If I would have used 3/4 stock, I would have used a 1/4 dado for the bottom and 3/8 dados for the drawer construction. This is just one other way to make the drawer and add to your confusion. Lenny - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:32 PM Subject: Re: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] making a drawer Tom, that is a fine idea and I think that would work quite well. Appreciate the plans. I already know that the counter top I got has a rounded edge that hangs a little low from the actual top. So basically I'm going to add some wood to make up for that for my keyboard
RE: [SPAM]RE: [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duplex Outlet Box Installation
Very interesting idea! I'm going to have to think about this. Thank you, Tom _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Optasia Ministry Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 1:32 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [SPAM]RE: [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duplex Outlet Box Installation Rather than doing it all with a chisel, would it work to put a masonry blade in a circular saw and make the side and top cuts? You could go as deep as you needed, then chiseling would be easier. Since you will have to plaster over some spots anyway, the extra grooves from the saw blade would be quite easy to cover. Blessings, Tom -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 8:49 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duplex Outlet Box Installation I could install the boxes sideways to let them fit where one brick is; however, I would have to do a lot chiseling first on the plaster to expose the brick to see where the rows of brick are. But, that does sound like a good idea. I'm wiring from box to box by going straight down behind the baseboard, which is not install yet. Then, going from box to box, going underneath the floor (see my previous response regarding running the wiring from the box to the floor). _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 6:13 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duplex Outlet Box Installation How do you intend to string wire from box to box? A carberundum wheel on a circular saw maybe? There is no reason why the bottom of the hole has to be all that flat but if you must then you can always fill it with mortar or a small amount of cement. If you select the right height successfully you could as well just cut out the end of a brick and install the box sideways on, the hole will be a little deep but should be just about the right height given a two inch brick. . - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 8:46 AM Subject: RE: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duplex Outlet Box Installation Lee, thank you for your input. There is no air space in the wall. There's just about 8 of brick, or two layers of brick, side by side. I can draw a square on the wall and start chiseling, but as I get to the correct depth, the back of the square hole is all chopped up and irregular. Anyone else have any suggestions or ideas? Thanks, Tom _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 8:29 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duplex Outlet Box Installation Tom I have no clue if there is a tool like you are looking for but here is one fort those mad inventors. Imagine if you had something like the belt sander concept but something that would like you need slowly open up a channel the length of the sand paper or tool? I know of the brick set up you are talking about as we had a friend with a similar inside/ outside wall. those were what we called Empire bricks made of Columbia County clay back inthe late 40's.. . What you want Tom is something that looks nice and what my friend did was to just put in new wiring that looked like a construction setup. running wire thru a conduit along the inside of walls. so his thought is what do I care.I'm blind. with a house as old as yours is Tom my question is is there an inside and outside wall air space on the North and West side? We had that in our first home which actually had a solid basement window and my wife told me you could see the leaves between the inside and outside windows. thus the original builder in the late 1700's had built that house with a dead air space between the inside and outside brick walls.. wish I had a good answer for you but. just figured I would chime in here. Lee On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 06:44:57PM -0400, Tom Hodges wrote: I am currently rewiring my 113-year old brick house, and removing the old knob and tube wiring. Years ago, someone had installed surface mounted duplex outlet boxes on the baseboards, which I would like to remove and mount in the wall one foot up the wall per code; however, my walls are brick - not brick veneer, but solid brick 18 thick. Does anyone have ideas on how I chisel out this brick
RE: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
What kind of basement walls do you have? Concrete? Brick? Stone? Other? _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:44 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [SPAM][BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Hello, What is tuck pointing? We're being told that this has to be done to our basement because there are cracks along the walls, and water is seeping in. If we don't do this, the house or foundation could begin to sink in? Is this correct? Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven- mailto:our-safe-haven-subscribe%40googlegroups.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] makinghouseworkeasi mailto:makinghouseworkeasier-subscribe%40googlegroups.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] disposal
If you're getting a new one let that company take the old one away for you. - Original Message - From: Robert Riddle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:10 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] disposal Well, as this freezer is toast, whom should I call to dispose of it? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] disposal
Just another thought. Sometimes people have to pay the scrap yard to take things that have certain kinds of gasses or chemicals in them. Refrigerators and freezers fall into that category, which is why if you're getting a new one, pay to have it delivered and let them hall the old one away. Betsy At 05:30 AM 7/21/2008, you wrote: as Betsy stated you can have the company that delivers a new one to remove it for you or if there any teenagers in your area you can have them take it to a scrap yard and allow them to keep any funds they are paid for the scrap as here I was talking to a appliance delivery guy this is how he disposes of as many as twenty dishwashers a week just a low cost idea good luck Allen Dunbar - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:14 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] disposal I haven't been following this topic so you may have had input that I am repeating. If you are going to purchase a new one, many times the appliance delivery folks will take yours away. Sometimes it is worth paying for the delivery to get rid of the old one. At 08:10 PM 7/20/2008, you wrote: Well, as this freezer is toast, whom should I call to dispose of it? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
Won't moisture leach away the salt after a while? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: RJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 9:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Years ago, a old cement man told me how to solve this problem with little expense. The recipe when something like this. A bag of white cement, 1/4 cup of rock salt, and 1/3 cup of Ivory flakes. Put the salt and ivory flakes in a 5 gallon bucket, 1/3 full of water , dissolving the salt and soap and add the cement to make a thick pancake like batter, spreading it on with a wallpaper brush. I just purchased a rental and the city code enforcer was going to condemn the building if I didn't repair the foundation. Had it done in a day. RJ - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 11:46 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Yep, tuck pointing is when they grind out the mortar between bricks and then pack in new mortar. It is a very labor intensive job, messy, and none too cheap. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
The touch up in this building lasted over twenty years, before I had to redo it. RJ - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 10:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Won't moisture leach away the salt after a while? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: RJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 9:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Years ago, a old cement man told me how to solve this problem with little expense. The recipe when something like this. A bag of white cement, 1/4 cup of rock salt, and 1/3 cup of Ivory flakes. Put the salt and ivory flakes in a 5 gallon bucket, 1/3 full of water , dissolving the salt and soap and add the cement to make a thick pancake like batter, spreading it on with a wallpaper brush. I just purchased a rental and the city code enforcer was going to condemn the building if I didn't repair the foundation. Had it done in a day. RJ - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 11:46 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Yep, tuck pointing is when they grind out the mortar between bricks and then pack in new mortar. It is a very labor intensive job, messy, and none too cheap. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
This sounds to me like a parging mixture intended to cover old concrete. I am guessing the function of the salt and the soap flakes is to help the stuff stick to the old concrete. Quarter of a cup of rock salt in a couple of cubic feet of cement isn't much and I notice there isn't any aggregate. This is more or less a lime whitewash. I wonder how well it stays on? - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 10:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Won't moisture leach away the salt after a while? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: RJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 9:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Years ago, a old cement man told me how to solve this problem with little expense. The recipe when something like this. A bag of white cement, 1/4 cup of rock salt, and 1/3 cup of Ivory flakes. Put the salt and ivory flakes in a 5 gallon bucket, 1/3 full of water , dissolving the salt and soap and add the cement to make a thick pancake like batter, spreading it on with a wallpaper brush. I just purchased a rental and the city code enforcer was going to condemn the building if I didn't repair the foundation. Had it done in a day. RJ - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 11:46 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Yep, tuck pointing is when they grind out the mortar between bricks and then pack in new mortar. It is a very labor intensive job, messy, and none too cheap. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.5.2/1562 - Release Date: 7/19/2008 2:01 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
