Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[Dale Leavens]

Hi,

I think the sewer back-up is more likely to be a coincidental event. My bet 
there is that your main sewer lines are inadequate and that at least some of 
the storm sewer run-off is being channeled into the sanitary sewer lines. When 
there is a lot of rain the pipes can't carry it all so there isn't room for 
yours. It might be that there is drainage around your foundations which has 
been routed into the sewers too, I don't have any idea what the building 
standards or customs might be where you live or how they were executed in your 
particular situation.

Sealing the floor is not likely to help much or for long. If the moisture is 
coming up from below and those corners of the building are just sitting in a 
saturated puddle the water will come through. Further, your ceramic tile is 
almost certainly impervious to water already. If it is coming up through the 
floor it will be the grout between the tiles which can be cleaned for 
appearance then sealed with special grout sealer, usually silicone based.

I feel quite likely that your water is coming in at the base of the walls where 
they sit on the footing and is seeping across the floor immediately adjacent to 
the wall. Weather it is because of saturated ground right there as the level of 
the footing or it is coming in through cement block walls, draining down inside 
the blocks and migrating out at the bottom is more difficult to know about. 
Either way, sealing the inside will not stop the problem for very long if at 
all in my opinion. I could be wrong, I was once before.

Do you have contact with neighbours? Do any of them experience toilet back-up 
during heavy rain? I expect this is a different problem and probably subsequent 
to housing development in excess of the sewer capacity.

It got down to minus 16C here last night, about 3F degrees. The lake in the 
middle of town has had ice over it since Thursday, after last night probably 
enough to walk across though way too early for me to try. I'll bet there will 
be some kids on it today though. 



  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Hi Dale,
  The temps aren't much warmer here. 30's and 40's. It's just not warming up 
enough. Now I do like my snow but all in all, I'm glad that I'm not snowed in. 

  It's not really a strong slope at all very gentle actually, but what I'm 
wondering about if this same water accumulation is causing the back up in my 
commodes at the same time and the rain is coming down. Some how I think the 
high water I think is causing both problems. By the way, what's the best 
surface sealant for this kind of project and what's the procedure to apply it. 
I'm going to have to pull up the carpet and all that kind of thing and right 
now it seems like a miserable project. Is there also any particular cleaning 
that I need to do to the floor before I apply the sealant?. 

  Thanks again to all of you for your responses and help. I'll keep you posted 
on this situation. 

  Warm regards,

  Mycell

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hello Mycell,

  Robert has described one potentially pretty good solution. I would add that 
you might extend the drain down hill as far away as you can from the building 
if that is an option and dig and install a dry well. These can be variably 
sophisticated but mostly you dig a hole and fill it with crushed rock with a 
sort of barrel with holes in it like a colander into which the drain is 
inserted. You could add a weeping bed I suppose but this should not be 
necessary. the holey barrel has a relief float arrangement at the top to allow 
water to escape should the well fill beyond capacity, being down hill from the 
problem the excess should continue to drain away.

  I wonder though if the problem is of rain driving against the building and 
migrating through. Ceramic tile is normally impermeable to water so except for 
the grout it seems unlikely to me that the water is rising up through the tile. 
After all, one often tiles showers and bathroom floors to keep the water from 
draining through to surfaces below and behind the tiles.

  You say the building is made of concrete block. I once rented office space in 
a strip mall with a concrete block wall. When wind drove rain against that wall 
a certain amount would migrate through into the cavities of the block and run 
down inside collecting at the bottom slowly filling up the blocks. This 
hydraulic pressure and osmotic pressure being as the inside of the building was 
dry and warm ultimately brought the water through the block wall mostly ad the 
bottom of the wall.I have seen this too in basements where the bottom of the 
wall leaked water across 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Tom Hodges]

Bob,

 

Thank you so much for the information.  I will research this on the Internet
to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc.  This
could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
they work well.

 

Tom

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

 

I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
Home Depot.

You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they would
actually seal. But they do, and work great. 

All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all had
as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
them apart the more it bit into your fingers. 

Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the other
pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was a
chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you it
takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall, there
is a lot less to worry about too. 

Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the price
right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it if you
aren't comfortable soldering.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Dale Leavens]

They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with 
compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can always 
buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or otherwise 
handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you don't use 
many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off valves and 
stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very secure and really 
very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings but now I really like 
the stop cocks.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Hodges 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  Bob,

  Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the Internet
  to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. This
  could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
  they work well.

  Tom

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
  remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
  Home Depot.

  You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they would
  actually seal. But they do, and work great. 

  All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
  and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all had
  as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
  them apart the more it bit into your fingers. 

  Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the other
  pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
  tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
  dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
  slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
  back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was a
  chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you it
  takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall, there
  is a lot less to worry about too. 

  Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the price
  right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it if you
  aren't comfortable soldering.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[RJ]

I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where ever 
possible.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[David W Wood]

I now use push fit fittings where possible.  About the same price here as
compression ones.
Much easier and quicker to use.


David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES/FAX)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: http://tinyurl.com/5wptcp



DISCLAIMER
The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is
intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not
the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete
it immediately.  Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading
copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein
is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.  Although this email and any
attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which
might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened
it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free
and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports
Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use
thereof.   Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not
necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any
individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf.

Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.
Delivery and Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 3:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with
compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can
always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or
otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you
don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off
valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very
secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings
but now I really like the stop cocks.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Hodges 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  Bob,

  Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the
Internet
  to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. This
  could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
  they work well.

  Tom

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
  remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
  Home Depot.

  You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they
would
  actually seal. But they do, and work great. 

  All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
  and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all
had
  as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
  them apart the more it bit into your fingers. 

  Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the
other
  pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
  tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
  dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
  slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
  back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was
a
  chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you
it
  takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall,
there
  is a lot less to worry about too. 

  Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the
price
  right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it if
you
  aren't comfortable soldering.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Tom Hodges]

David,

 

I am not familiar with this.  Are you referring to Shark Bite fittings, or
some other brand of fittings?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David W Wood
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:51 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

 

I now use push fit fittings where possible. About the same price here as
compression ones.
Much easier and quicker to use.

David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES/FAX)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  physio.net
W: http://tinyurl.  com/5wptcp



DISCLAIMER
The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is
intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not
the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete
it immediately. Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading
copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein
is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Although this email and any
attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which
might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened
it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free
and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports
Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use
thereof. Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not
necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any
individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf.

Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.
Delivery and Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 3:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with
compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can
always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or
otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you
don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off
valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very
secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings
but now I really like the stop cocks.

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hodges 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

Bob,

Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the
Internet
to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. This
could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
they work well.

Tom

_ 

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
Home Depot.

You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they
would
actually seal. But they do, and work great. 

All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all
had
as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
them apart the more it bit into your fingers. 

Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the
other
pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was
a
chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you
it
takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall,
there
is a lot less to worry about too. 

Both stores have them in the plumb

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Michael Baldwin]

might be a bit controversial with some of you, but...
NO NO NO.
do NOT use them in a place they can not be accessed. like inside a wall.
Most codes prohibit there use in such locations, for a reason, they are more
likely to come apart than a soldered joint, and make a heck of  a mess when
they do come apart, or loosen up.
I have never had a properly glued or soldered joint come apart, but I have
had properly installed compression joints leak and/or come apart.
Michael


  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:44 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors



I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where ever
possible.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Tom Hodges]

Personally, I would not put ANY kind of joint, including a soldered joint,
inside a wall.  I would use the flexible cooper tubing that is available
wherever copper pipes are sold.  This allows you to buy any length desired
so you don't need to put a joint in inaccessible places.

 

Tom

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

 

might be a bit controversial with some of you, but...
NO NO NO.
do NOT use them in a place they can not be accessed. like inside a wall.
Most codes prohibit there use in such locations, for a reason, they are more
likely to come apart than a soldered joint, and make a heck of a mess when
they do come apart, or loosen up.
I have never had a properly glued or soldered joint come apart, but I have
had properly installed compression joints leak and/or come apart.
Michael

_ 

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:44 AM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where ever
possible.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[David W Wood]

Could be an example of two nations divided by a common language!
Mark Twaine - I think?!

Plastic fittings with a toothed metal ring inside each opening, which grips
the copper tube.
Also an O-ring and washer as a backing.
They tend to have a screw-collar so that they can be undone easily.

I have used them many times, most recent to put in a heating system, also
with plastic flexible tubing.


David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES/FAX)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: http://tinyurl.com/5wptcp



DISCLAIMER
The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is
intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not
the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete
it immediately.  Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading
copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein
is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.  Although this email and any
attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which
might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened
it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free
and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports
Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use
thereof.   Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not
necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any
individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf.

Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.
Delivery and Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 3:56 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

David,

 

I am not familiar with this.  Are you referring to Shark Bite fittings, or
some other brand of fittings?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David W Wood
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:51 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

 

I now use push fit fittings where possible. About the same price here as
compression ones.
Much easier and quicker to use.

David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES/FAX)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  physio.net
W: http://tinyurl.  com/5wptcp



DISCLAIMER
The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is
intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not
the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete
it immediately. Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading
copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein
is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Although this email and any
attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which
might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened
it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free
and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports
Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use
thereof. Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not
necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any
individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf.

Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.
Delivery and Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 3:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with
compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can
always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or
otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you
don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off
valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very
secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings
but now I really like the stop cocks.

- Original

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Trouble]

Then those properly done compression joints weren't done right.
i put one in my moms house on the cold and hot water going to the 
bathroom about 20 years ago. Still to this day no leaks and just as tight..

At 10:56 AM 11/22/2008, you wrote:

>might be a bit controversial with some of you, but...
>NO NO NO.
>do NOT use them in a place they can not be accessed. like inside a wall.
>Most codes prohibit there use in such locations, for a reason, they are more
>likely to come apart than a soldered joint, and make a heck of a mess when
>they do come apart, or loosen up.
>I have never had a properly glued or soldered joint come apart, but I have
>had properly installed compression joints leak and/or come apart.
>Michael
>
>_
>
>From: 
>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>On Behalf Of RJ
>Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:44 AM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
>
>I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where ever
>possible.
>RJ
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Tim
trouble
Verizon support tech
"Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
--Sam Brown

Blindeudora list owner.
To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora   

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Dale Leavens]

Which comes back to why sweated solder is the best; however the requirement was 
for an alternative.

Soldered copper though does sometimes leak and I have both seen and had holes 
appear in the walls of copper pipe, it is not always perfectly manufactured.

The mess is indisputably extreme when water pipes fail.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:56 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  might be a bit controversial with some of you, but...
  NO NO NO.
  do NOT use them in a place they can not be accessed. like inside a wall.
  Most codes prohibit there use in such locations, for a reason, they are more
  likely to come apart than a soldered joint, and make a heck of a mess when
  they do come apart, or loosen up.
  I have never had a properly glued or soldered joint come apart, but I have
  had properly installed compression joints leak and/or come apart.
  Michael

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:44 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where ever
  possible.
  RJ

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[David W Wood]

This happened in my house a year ago.
The copper tubing for my water main corroded through under the concrete
floor of my house.  This is so common because of an interaction between the
cement and the copper over time - in this case 35 years since the house was
built.
Nowadays regulations require that the pipe is covered in a sleeve.


David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES/FAX)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

Which comes back to why sweated solder is the best; however the requirement
was for an alternative.

Soldered copper though does sometimes leak and I have both seen and had
holes appear in the walls of copper pipe, it is not always perfectly
manufactured.

The mess is indisputably extreme when water pipes fail.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:56 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  might be a bit controversial with some of you, but...
  NO NO NO.
  do NOT use them in a place they can not be accessed. like inside a wall.
  Most codes prohibit there use in such locations, for a reason, they are
more
  likely to come apart than a soldered joint, and make a heck of a mess when
  they do come apart, or loosen up.
  I have never had a properly glued or soldered joint come apart, but I have
  had properly installed compression joints leak and/or come apart.
  Michael

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:44 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where
ever
  possible.
  RJ

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[Mycell Armington]

Hi Dale and All,
I personally believe that it is ground saturation, but what still confuses 
me is that only the corners are the issue. My neighbors across the street have 
some back up in their system also. Let me also explain that I am on a septic 
system instead of connection with the city sewer system. The only time anyone 
has check this area is when it has been slightly damp or dry. I really need to 
get down with someone who knows more than me and explore the foundation 
directly while someone  else takes a physical look and I can lay hands on it. 
Pardon the pun! 

Here in this area of Florida we have those torrential down pours for a few 
days not just with hurricanes but big thunder storms. As for 16 
below,--oou--oou that's chilly burr--burr; although, I am an avid cross country 
skier when and where I can and are in the appropriate weather that allows for 
such fun as skiing and ice skating. I learned as a child living in MI for a 
year or two. 

I'll have someone come in and check the situation out and keep you all 
posted. 

Max, asked me in another e-mail how I pronounced my name, its pronounced 
like the Y has a short I sound. I'll spell it phonetically Micelle with the 
emphasis on the second syllable. 

Thanks for all of yawl's input and if anyone thinks of anything else please 
let me know.

Warm regards,

Mycell  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Hi,

  I think the sewer back-up is more likely to be a coincidental event. My bet 
there is that your main sewer lines are inadequate and that at least some of 
the storm sewer run-off is being channeled into the sanitary sewer lines. When 
there is a lot of rain the pipes can't carry it all so there isn't room for 
yours. It might be that there is drainage around your foundations which has 
been routed into the sewers too, I don't have any idea what the building 
standards or customs might be where you live or how they were executed in your 
particular situation.

  Sealing the floor is not likely to help much or for long. If the moisture is 
coming up from below and those corners of the building are just sitting in a 
saturated puddle the water will come through. Further, your ceramic tile is 
almost certainly impervious to water already. If it is coming up through the 
floor it will be the grout between the tiles which can be cleaned for 
appearance then sealed with special grout sealer, usually silicone based.

  I feel quite likely that your water is coming in at the base of the walls 
where they sit on the footing and is seeping across the floor immediately 
adjacent to the wall. Weather it is because of saturated ground right there as 
the level of the footing or it is coming in through cement block walls, 
draining down inside the blocks and migrating out at the bottom is more 
difficult to know about. Either way, sealing the inside will not stop the 
problem for very long if at all in my opinion. I could be wrong, I was once 
before.

  Do you have contact with neighbours? Do any of them experience toilet back-up 
during heavy rain? I expect this is a different problem and probably subsequent 
to housing development in excess of the sewer capacity.

  It got down to minus 16C here last night, about 3F degrees. The lake in the 
middle of town has had ice over it since Thursday, after last night probably 
enough to walk across though way too early for me to try. I'll bet there will 
be some kids on it today though. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi Dale,
  The temps aren't much warmer here. 30's and 40's. It's just not warming up 
enough. Now I do like my snow but all in all, I'm glad that I'm not snowed in. 

  It's not really a strong slope at all very gentle actually, but what I'm 
wondering about if this same water accumulation is causing the back up in my 
commodes at the same time and the rain is coming down. Some how I think the 
high water I think is causing both problems. By the way, what's the best 
surface sealant for this kind of project and what's the procedure to apply it. 
I'm going to have to pull up the carpet and all that kind of thing and right 
now it seems like a miserable project. Is there also any particular cleaning 
that I need to do to the floor before I apply the sealant?. 

  Thanks again to all of you for your responses and help. I'll keep you posted 
on this situation. 

  Warm regards,

  Mycell

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hello Mycell,

  Robert has described one potent

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[Brice Mijares]

I'd call around and see how much a  structural engineer would cost to come 
out and find a solution as to what's going on with your problem with the 
cement slab  allowing the water to seep upwards.  Ripping back the rug and 
applying a sealer in my opinion just isn't going to work.  I'd say, the 
first thing you've got to do, is to direct the water around your house away 
elsewhere.  Look into French drains. 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[WESLEY BURDEN]

another option you can do is put crushed stone around the foundation and
slope towards the way where the drain is.  I am finishing up a house and
that's what we did when we built the foundation.  We put crushed stone
around the outside of the foundation and sloped it so that water would run
off.
 
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 1:09 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!



I'd call around and see how much a structural engineer would cost to come 
out and find a solution as to what's going on with your problem with the 
cement slab allowing the water to seep upwards. Ripping back the rug and 
applying a sealer in my opinion just isn't going to work. I'd say, the 
first thing you've got to do, is to direct the water around your house away 
elsewhere. Look into French drains. 



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Final Cut Blade

[Lenny McHugh]

I just received this from Larry Martin about the final cut blade. One of the 
comments reassures my thoughts about burning the wood. I will be removing it 
from my Christmas wish list.
Lenny

Here's a thoughtful response from the Fine Woodworking Ask An Expert forum:

I haven't used the blade so I can't offer an opinion, but a good blade on a 
properly set up saw will produce a very clean cut so I doubt that the 
sanding would make it any better.

I also doubt that the paper would hold up for long, so the time and expense 
of replacing the paper would be an ongoing cost and annoyance. I also 
suspect that you wouldn't want to leave the blade on the saw for less 
precise cuts, so you would have the added hassle of installing and removing 
the blade repeatedly during a project.

And Lenny, here are a couple of other responses:

1) I have been a trim carpenter for many years. This looks bogus to me. 
Think about it... if the sandpaper is proud of the saw teeth, it would burn. 
If not, it depends on the "wobble" of the blade, not good. Just pay the 
bucks and get a good blade. My Tenryu 12"  100 tooth blade makes cuts that 
are SMOOTHER than if you had sanded them. You have to spend the money but it 
will last for years. Of course your saw has to be good too. Good luck!

2)  I just looked at the advertisement again for good measure and...total 
BS, don't bother  only for knuckleheads.


--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Larry, may I share your observation with the BHM list?
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 11:01 PM
> Subject: Final Cut Blade
>
>
> Lenny -- I had not heard of the Final Cut blade before but I was favorably
> impressed.
>
> MLCS is a respected mail order woodworking operation and they speak
> glowingly about the Final Cut Blade. I watched the video and watched them
> make numerous cuts and none of them showed any signs of burning. The video
> shows cuts being made in plywood, melamine and crown molding stock. All of
> the scenes showed finish carpentry work. No comments were made about
> furniture making and the finer tolerances required for furniture making. 
> The
> video did comment that the finished surface of a cut removed all milling
> marks even better than a jointer would do. The miter joints shown for 
> frames
> and crown molding seemed very tight.
>
> If you get this blade or the sandpaper disks to apply to a tablesaw blade
> please let me know the results. I will make a search in the tool review 
> area
> of  finewoodworking.com to see if anyone has reported anything on the 
> item.
>
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
> --joining the world of blind wood workers
>
>  -- Original message --
> From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Larry, did you get this email? Wouldn't this blade tend to burn the 
> > wood?
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: MLCS Woodworking
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:17 PM
> > Subject: Sand & Saw SIMULTANEOUSLY...And SAVE!
> >
> >
> > You are receiving this e-mail because of your relationship with MLCS 
> > LTD.
> >
> > You may unsubscribe if you no longer wish to receive our emails.
> >
> >
> >
> >   SAW & SAND & SAVE!
> >
> >   Unique Time-Saver Exclusive Intro Offer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >   SAW & SAND and Save!
> >   With the FINAL CUT Blade...
> >   BRAND NEW, UNIQUE, MLCS EXCLUSIVE INTRO OFFER!
> >
> >
> >   Why didn't WE think of that?
> >
> >
> >   This exclusive new PATENTED product is getting rave
> > reviews. A
> > simple idea, but an incredible time-saver.
> >
> >   The Saw Blade has sandpaper BUILT-IN so you sand 
> > things
> > to a
> > smooth finish WHILE YOU SAW! Makes joints so smooth they're virtually
> > invisible!
> >
> >   MLCS is the first to offer this unique new item that's
> > getting
> > rave reviews (from Canadian Woodworking, HGTV, and more). Our 
> > woodworkers
> > have
> > tested it in the shop, too, and they LOVE it!
> >
> >
> >
> >   Details and Ordering
> >
> >   See Full Feature List, Sample Cuts, Demo Video, 
> > Reviews,
> > and
> > More..!
> >
> >
> >   MLCS Holiday Gift Guide 2008
> >
> >
> >   Our yearly Holiday Shopping Helper is here to make 
> > sure
> > all
> > our good woodworkers get what's on their holiday wishlist.  Shoppers can
> > shop by
> > Price or Category and purchase Gift Certificates.  We've expanded the
> > selection
> > with great new items this year.
> >
> >   You can also use our "Tell a Friend" links to send
> > helpful and
> > specif

[BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers

[Brice Mijares]

Can someone explain how wireless speakers can work without any power source 
to power the speakers themselves. 




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers

[Max Robinson]

They will work only if their are batteries in the speaker box.  If someone 
tries to tell you otherwise, either they are miss informed or they are 
having you on.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

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- Original Message - 
From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 1:54 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers


> Can someone explain how wireless speakers can work without any power 
> source
> to power the speakers themselves.
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
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>
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> list just send a blank message to:
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>
>
>
>
> 




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers

[Brice Mijares]

Well, I don't know what to tell you.  My Son has some speakers that came 
with his Home Theater system, and he says that 2 of them are wireless and 
there is no power source.  I told him the same thing, something had to power 
the speakers, either ac or dc.  He said there was no batteries.  Next time 
I'm over his home I'm going to check these speakers out.I'd say it came 
with batteries already installed in the units and he probably didn't know 
it, as young people don't usually read the instructions.  But, he's had 
these speakers for over a year, and I can't see any type of battery lasting 
that long.

- Original Message - 
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers


> They will work only if their are batteries in the speaker box.  If someone
> tries to tell you otherwise, either they are miss informed or they are
> having you on.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 1:54 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers
>
>
>> Can someone explain how wireless speakers can work without any power
>> source
>> to power the speakers themselves.
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>> address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
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>> list just send a blank message to:
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
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> To listen to the show archives go to link
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>
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>
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> List Members At The Following address:
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>
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>
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>
>
> 




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[RJ]

I also been working with the compression fitting since I lost my sight and 
can't sweat joints. No problem here.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Trouble 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:35 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  Then those properly done compression joints weren't done right.
  i put one in my moms house on the cold and hot water going to the 
  bathroom about 20 years ago. Still to this day no leaks and just as tight..

  At 10:56 AM 11/22/2008, you wrote:

  >might be a bit controversial with some of you, but...
  >NO NO NO.
  >do NOT use them in a place they can not be accessed. like inside a wall.
  >Most codes prohibit there use in such locations, for a reason, they are more
  >likely to come apart than a soldered joint, and make a heck of a mess when
  >they do come apart, or loosen up.
  >I have never had a properly glued or soldered joint come apart, but I have
  >had properly installed compression joints leak and/or come apart.
  >Michael
  >
  >_
  >
  >From: 
  >blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >On Behalf Of RJ
  >Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:44 AM
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
  >
  >I agree compression fittings are worth the extra price. Use them where ever
  >possible.
  >RJ
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >

  Tim
  trouble
  Verizon support tech
  "Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
  --Sam Brown

  Blindeudora list owner.
  To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[RJ]

First you, if you didn't, get that septic tank pumped out. Your local co-op can 
tell you how often this should be done. On my sand mound, with two people 
living in the house, I have mine done every two years. As for your water 
problem, The only way to solve this problem, in my opinion, is to drain the 
water away from the house. In one case I put a under ground tank in. Think it 
was 500 gallon and put in a sump  pump to drain the water to the street drain, 
because the land was to flat and a little below street level. This solved the 
problem. My neighbors last year was simple, all I had to do was dig a ditch, 
put in 4 inch drain pipe/gravel and get the water away from the troubled areas.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Hi Dale and All,
  I personally believe that it is ground saturation, but what still confuses me 
is that only the corners are the issue. My neighbors across the street have 
some back up in their system also. Let me also explain that I am on a septic 
system instead of connection with the city sewer system. The only time anyone 
has check this area is when it has been slightly damp or dry. I really need to 
get down with someone who knows more than me and explore the foundation 
directly while someone else takes a physical look and I can lay hands on it. 
Pardon the pun! 

  Here in this area of Florida we have those torrential down pours for a few 
days not just with hurricanes but big thunder storms. As for 16 
below,--oou--oou that's chilly burr--burr; although, I am an avid cross country 
skier when and where I can and are in the appropriate weather that allows for 
such fun as skiing and ice skating. I learned as a child living in MI for a 
year or two. 

  I'll have someone come in and check the situation out and keep you all 
posted. 

  Max, asked me in another e-mail how I pronounced my name, its pronounced like 
the Y has a short I sound. I'll spell it phonetically Micelle with the emphasis 
on the second syllable. 

  Thanks for all of yawl's input and if anyone thinks of anything else please 
let me know.

  Warm regards,

  Mycell 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi,

  I think the sewer back-up is more likely to be a coincidental event. My bet 
there is that your main sewer lines are inadequate and that at least some of 
the storm sewer run-off is being channeled into the sanitary sewer lines. When 
there is a lot of rain the pipes can't carry it all so there isn't room for 
yours. It might be that there is drainage around your foundations which has 
been routed into the sewers too, I don't have any idea what the building 
standards or customs might be where you live or how they were executed in your 
particular situation.

  Sealing the floor is not likely to help much or for long. If the moisture is 
coming up from below and those corners of the building are just sitting in a 
saturated puddle the water will come through. Further, your ceramic tile is 
almost certainly impervious to water already. If it is coming up through the 
floor it will be the grout between the tiles which can be cleaned for 
appearance then sealed with special grout sealer, usually silicone based.

  I feel quite likely that your water is coming in at the base of the walls 
where they sit on the footing and is seeping across the floor immediately 
adjacent to the wall. Weather it is because of saturated ground right there as 
the level of the footing or it is coming in through cement block walls, 
draining down inside the blocks and migrating out at the bottom is more 
difficult to know about. Either way, sealing the inside will not stop the 
problem for very long if at all in my opinion. I could be wrong, I was once 
before.

  Do you have contact with neighbours? Do any of them experience toilet back-up 
during heavy rain? I expect this is a different problem and probably subsequent 
to housing development in excess of the sewer capacity.

  It got down to minus 16C here last night, about 3F degrees. The lake in the 
middle of town has had ice over it since Thursday, after last night probably 
enough to walk across though way too early for me to try. I'll bet there will 
be some kids on it today though. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi Dale,
  The temps aren't much warmer here. 30's and 40's. It's just not warming up 
enough. Now I do like my snow but all in all, I'm glad that I'm not snowed in. 

  It's not really a strong slope at all very gentle actually, but what I'm 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers

[Max Robinson]

They could be powered by photo voltaic cells.  That's another name for the 
miss named solar batteries.  They don't need actual sunlight to generate 
some voltage.  The only other alternative I can come up with is to power the 
amplifiers that in turn drive the speakers from the RF energy from the 
transmitter.  That would take a lot of RF power.  How would you like to sit 
in a microwave oven while watching TV, grin.  If there aren't any 
replaceable batteries in them it's most likely a combination of photo 
voltaics and rechargeable which get recharged between uses.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers


> Well, I don't know what to tell you.  My Son has some speakers that came
> with his Home Theater system, and he says that 2 of them are wireless and
> there is no power source.  I told him the same thing, something had to 
> power
> the speakers, either ac or dc.  He said there was no batteries.  Next time
> I'm over his home I'm going to check these speakers out.I'd say it 
> came
> with batteries already installed in the units and he probably didn't know
> it, as young people don't usually read the instructions.  But, he's had
> these speakers for over a year, and I can't see any type of battery 
> lasting
> that long.
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 12:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers
>
>
>> They will work only if their are batteries in the speaker box.  If 
>> someone
>> tries to tell you otherwise, either they are miss informed or they are
>> having you on.
>>
>> Regards.
>>
>> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>>
>> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>>
>> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 1:54 PM
>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless spekers
>>
>>
>>> Can someone explain how wireless speakers can work without any power
>>> source
>>> to power the speakers themselves.
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>>> Or
>>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>>
>>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>>
>>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
>>> Various
>>> List Members At The Following address:
>>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>>
>>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>>
>>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>>> address for more information:
>>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>>> list just send a blank message to:
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>> address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MM

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Alan & Terrie Robbins]

Dale,

I've been using compression fittings since loosing my vision. I've had very
good success with them.  I also have gone to flexible supply lines for
faucets, toilets, etc.  I find them easy to work with and again have had no
problems to date with them

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:38 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with
compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can
always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or
otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you
don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off
valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very
secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings
but now I really like the stop cocks.

  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Hodges
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  Bob,

  Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the
Internet
  to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. This
  could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
  they work well.

  Tom

  _

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
  remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
  Home Depot.

  You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they
would
  actually seal. But they do, and work great.

  All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
  and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all
had
  as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
  them apart the more it bit into your fingers.

  Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the
other
  pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
  tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
  dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
  slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
  back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was
a
  chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you
it
  takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall,
there
  is a lot less to worry about too.

  Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the
price
  right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it if
you
  aren't comfortable soldering.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Scott Howell]

I also have to chime in and say that I've used compression fittings on  
sinks and other fixtures. I've not used it on an incoming supply line,  
but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. I might have to get someone  
such as a town Engineer come to shut off the water because I do want  
to replace the valves on either side of the meter. I have two valves  
with unions on each side so you can screw out the meter. Both valves  
are the old gate-style valves that were not only installed upside  
down, they are rather cruddy and do leak just a hair, I mean enough to  
turn the knobs on the valves to feeling like they have rust on them.  
Yep, it's really gross, but I've been trying to figure out what I'd  
like to use in place. I might have someone come in and put in the ball  
valves for me only since rigging this up with the meter and so forth  
might be a little challenging to say the least. I've got to get back  
in there and see how this thing is installed, but I think it would be  
quite a trick to get the unions and valves all put back and the water  
back up fast enough to keep my wife happy. grin.

On Nov 22, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Alan & Terrie Robbins wrote:

> Dale,
>
> I've been using compression fittings since loosing my vision. I've  
> had very
> good success with them. I also have gone to flexible supply lines for
> faucets, toilets, etc. I find them easy to work with and again have  
> had no
> problems to date with them
>
> Al
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:38 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
>
> They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go  
> with
> compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you  
> can
> always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing  
> or
> otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but  
> usually you
> don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like  
> shut-off
> valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are  
> very
> secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow  
> fittings
> but now I really like the stop cocks.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Tom Hodges
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
>
> Bob,
>
> Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the
> Internet
> to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc.  
> This
> could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention  
> headache) if
> they work well.
>
> Tom
>
> _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> ]
> On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
>
> I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip,  
> can't
> remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the  
> other from
> Home Depot.
>
> You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they
> would
> actually seal. But they do, and work great.
>
> All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs  
> off,
> and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we  
> all
> had
> as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled  
> to get
> them apart the more it bit into your fingers.
>
> Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the
> other
> pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a  
> special
> tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
> dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit  
> in the
> slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it  
> opens
> back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart.  
> I was
> a
> chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can  
> tell you
> it
> takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall,
> there
> is a lot less to worry about too.
>
> Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the
> price
> right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it  
> if
> you
> aren't comfortable soldering.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[Dale Leavens]

Well, it seeps pretty clear tat your septic leaching bed is getting saturated 
or at least isn't draining satisfactorily for the tank to handle the load. 
Probably a little of both. Pumping out the septic tank might be enough unless 
the tank is filling from the saturated leach bed.

If your ground is flat you may need drainage into a tank and a sump pump to 
move the water out of it but pumping it onto a neighbours property won't make 
you friends.

I am quite certain though that you will not succeed in sealing against water 
from the inside. It is difficult enough to keep water from coming into a boat 
and it is designed for the purpose. You have to keep the water from entering 
the building envelope in the first place.

Grading the landscape and creating adequate drainage if it is ground water, 
stopping penetration if above grade infiltration as from driving rain will be 
the ultimate answers.

Another option is to sell the home during the dry season.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Hi Dale and All,
  I personally believe that it is ground saturation, but what still confuses me 
is that only the corners are the issue. My neighbors across the street have 
some back up in their system also. Let me also explain that I am on a septic 
system instead of connection with the city sewer system. The only time anyone 
has check this area is when it has been slightly damp or dry. I really need to 
get down with someone who knows more than me and explore the foundation 
directly while someone else takes a physical look and I can lay hands on it. 
Pardon the pun! 

  Here in this area of Florida we have those torrential down pours for a few 
days not just with hurricanes but big thunder storms. As for 16 
below,--oou--oou that's chilly burr--burr; although, I am an avid cross country 
skier when and where I can and are in the appropriate weather that allows for 
such fun as skiing and ice skating. I learned as a child living in MI for a 
year or two. 

  I'll have someone come in and check the situation out and keep you all 
posted. 

  Max, asked me in another e-mail how I pronounced my name, its pronounced like 
the Y has a short I sound. I'll spell it phonetically Micelle with the emphasis 
on the second syllable. 

  Thanks for all of yawl's input and if anyone thinks of anything else please 
let me know.

  Warm regards,

  Mycell 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi,

  I think the sewer back-up is more likely to be a coincidental event. My bet 
there is that your main sewer lines are inadequate and that at least some of 
the storm sewer run-off is being channeled into the sanitary sewer lines. When 
there is a lot of rain the pipes can't carry it all so there isn't room for 
yours. It might be that there is drainage around your foundations which has 
been routed into the sewers too, I don't have any idea what the building 
standards or customs might be where you live or how they were executed in your 
particular situation.

  Sealing the floor is not likely to help much or for long. If the moisture is 
coming up from below and those corners of the building are just sitting in a 
saturated puddle the water will come through. Further, your ceramic tile is 
almost certainly impervious to water already. If it is coming up through the 
floor it will be the grout between the tiles which can be cleaned for 
appearance then sealed with special grout sealer, usually silicone based.

  I feel quite likely that your water is coming in at the base of the walls 
where they sit on the footing and is seeping across the floor immediately 
adjacent to the wall. Weather it is because of saturated ground right there as 
the level of the footing or it is coming in through cement block walls, 
draining down inside the blocks and migrating out at the bottom is more 
difficult to know about. Either way, sealing the inside will not stop the 
problem for very long if at all in my opinion. I could be wrong, I was once 
before.

  Do you have contact with neighbours? Do any of them experience toilet back-up 
during heavy rain? I expect this is a different problem and probably subsequent 
to housing development in excess of the sewer capacity.

  It got down to minus 16C here last night, about 3F degrees. The lake in the 
middle of town has had ice over it since Thursday, after last night probably 
enough to walk across though way too early for me to try. I'll bet there will 
be some kids on it today though. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Bob Kennedy]

I'm a big fan of compression fittings but they told me at Lowes and Home depot 
that they are selling less of them due to the new shark bites.  Because they 
are tried and trusted I much prefer the compressions but everyone seems to want 
something that is easier to work with.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with 
compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can always 
buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or otherwise 
handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you don't use 
many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off valves and 
stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very secure and really 
very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings but now I really like 
the stop cocks.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Hodges 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  Bob,

  Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the Internet
  to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. This
  could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
  they work well.

  Tom

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
  remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
  Home Depot.

  You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they would
  actually seal. But they do, and work great. 

  All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
  and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all had
  as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
  them apart the more it bit into your fingers. 

  Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the other
  pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
  tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
  dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
  slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
  back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was a
  chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you it
  takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall, there
  is a lot less to worry about too. 

  Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the price
  right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it if you
  aren't comfortable soldering.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Final Cut Blade

[Bob Kennedy]

If you ever put the money out for one of those tenryu blades you'll be spoiled. 
 It is Japanese and if the Japanese excel at anything they sure know how to 
make things sharp.  Of course the Freud glue line blades are also excellent 
blades and they leave smooth cuts too.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: handyman-blind 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 2:25 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Final Cut Blade


  I just received this from Larry Martin about the final cut blade. One of the 
  comments reassures my thoughts about burning the wood. I will be removing it 
  from my Christmas wish list.
  Lenny

  Here's a thoughtful response from the Fine Woodworking Ask An Expert forum:

  I haven't used the blade so I can't offer an opinion, but a good blade on a 
  properly set up saw will produce a very clean cut so I doubt that the 
  sanding would make it any better.

  I also doubt that the paper would hold up for long, so the time and expense 
  of replacing the paper would be an ongoing cost and annoyance. I also 
  suspect that you wouldn't want to leave the blade on the saw for less 
  precise cuts, so you would have the added hassle of installing and removing 
  the blade repeatedly during a project.

  And Lenny, here are a couple of other responses:

  1) I have been a trim carpenter for many years. This looks bogus to me. 
  Think about it... if the sandpaper is proud of the saw teeth, it would burn. 
  If not, it depends on the "wobble" of the blade, not good. Just pay the 
  bucks and get a good blade. My Tenryu 12" 100 tooth blade makes cuts that 
  are SMOOTHER than if you had sanded them. You have to spend the money but it 
  will last for years. Of course your saw has to be good too. Good luck!

  2) I just looked at the advertisement again for good measure and...total 
  BS, don't bother only for knuckleheads.

  --
  Larry Martin
  Woodworking for the Blind
  --joining the world of blind wood workers

  -- Original message --
  From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > Larry, may I share your observation with the BHM list?
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 11:01 PM
  > Subject: Final Cut Blade
  >
  >
  > Lenny -- I had not heard of the Final Cut blade before but I was favorably
  > impressed.
  >
  > MLCS is a respected mail order woodworking operation and they speak
  > glowingly about the Final Cut Blade. I watched the video and watched them
  > make numerous cuts and none of them showed any signs of burning. The video
  > shows cuts being made in plywood, melamine and crown molding stock. All of
  > the scenes showed finish carpentry work. No comments were made about
  > furniture making and the finer tolerances required for furniture making. 
  > The
  > video did comment that the finished surface of a cut removed all milling
  > marks even better than a jointer would do. The miter joints shown for 
  > frames
  > and crown molding seemed very tight.
  >
  > If you get this blade or the sandpaper disks to apply to a tablesaw blade
  > please let me know the results. I will make a search in the tool review 
  > area
  > of finewoodworking.com to see if anyone has reported anything on the 
  > item.
  >
  > --
  > Larry Martin
  > Woodworking for the Blind
  > --joining the world of blind wood workers
  >
  > -- Original message --
  > From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > > Larry, did you get this email? Wouldn't this blade tend to burn the 
  > > wood?
  > > - Original Message - 
  > > From: MLCS Woodworking
  > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:17 PM
  > > Subject: Sand & Saw SIMULTANEOUSLY...And SAVE!
  > >
  > >
  > > You are receiving this e-mail because of your relationship with MLCS 
  > > LTD.
  > >
  > > You may unsubscribe if you no longer wish to receive our emails.
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > SAW & SAND & SAVE!
  > >
  > > Unique Time-Saver Exclusive Intro Offer
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > SAW & SAND and Save!
  > > With the FINAL CUT Blade...
  > > BRAND NEW, UNIQUE, MLCS EXCLUSIVE INTRO OFFER!
  > >
  > >
  > > Why didn't WE think of that?
  > >
  > >
  > > This exclusive new PATENTED product is getting rave
  > > reviews. A
  > > simple idea, but an incredible time-saver.
  > >
  > > The Saw Blade has sandpaper BUILT-IN so you sand 
  > > things
  > > to a
  > > smooth finish WHILE YOU SAW! Makes joints so smooth they're virtually
  > > invisible!
  > >
  > > MLCS is the first to offer this unique new item that's
  > > getting
  > > rave reviews (from Canadian Woodworking, HGTV, and more). Our 
  > > woodworkers
  > > have
  > > tested it in the shop, too, and they LOVE it!
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Details and Ordering
  > >
  > > See Full Feature List, Sample Cuts, Demo Video, 
  > > Reviews,
  > > and
  > > More..!
  > >
  

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Bob Kennedy]

One quick tip in messing with the meter.  Don't...  That is owned by the city 
and they get rather touchy about individuals messing with their toys...  If 
there's a problem make them come fix it.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 8:26 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  I also have to chime in and say that I've used compression fittings on 
  sinks and other fixtures. I've not used it on an incoming supply line, 
  but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. I might have to get someone 
  such as a town Engineer come to shut off the water because I do want 
  to replace the valves on either side of the meter. I have two valves 
  with unions on each side so you can screw out the meter. Both valves 
  are the old gate-style valves that were not only installed upside 
  down, they are rather cruddy and do leak just a hair, I mean enough to 
  turn the knobs on the valves to feeling like they have rust on them. 
  Yep, it's really gross, but I've been trying to figure out what I'd 
  like to use in place. I might have someone come in and put in the ball 
  valves for me only since rigging this up with the meter and so forth 
  might be a little challenging to say the least. I've got to get back 
  in there and see how this thing is installed, but I think it would be 
  quite a trick to get the unions and valves all put back and the water 
  back up fast enough to keep my wife happy. grin.

  On Nov 22, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Alan & Terrie Robbins wrote:

  > Dale,
  >
  > I've been using compression fittings since loosing my vision. I've 
  > had very
  > good success with them. I also have gone to flexible supply lines for
  > faucets, toilets, etc. I find them easy to work with and again have 
  > had no
  > problems to date with them
  >
  > Al
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  > Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:38 AM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
  >
  > They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go 
  > with
  > compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you 
  > can
  > always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing 
  > or
  > otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but 
  > usually you
  > don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like 
  > shut-off
  > valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are 
  > very
  > secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow 
  > fittings
  > but now I really like the stop cocks.
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Tom Hodges
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
  > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
  >
  > Bob,
  >
  > Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the
  > Internet
  > to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. 
  > This
  > could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention 
  > headache) if
  > they work well.
  >
  > Tom
  >
  > _
  >
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > ]
  > On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  > Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors
  >
  > I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, 
  > can't
  > remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the 
  > other from
  > Home Depot.
  >
  > You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they
  > would
  > actually seal. But they do, and work great.
  >
  > All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs 
  > off,
  > and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we 
  > all
  > had
  > as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled 
  > to get
  > them apart the more it bit into your fingers.
  >
  > Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the
  > other
  > pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a 
  > special
  > tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
  > dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit 
  > in the
  > slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it 
  > opens
  > back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. 
  > I was
  > a
  > chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can 
  > tell you
  > it
  > takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall,
  > there
  > is a lot less to worry about too.
  >
  > Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[Mycell Armington]

Hi Dale,
I thought about all your many choices and even the last one extremely 
seriously. Hey anyone want to buy a  house in north Florida only miner repairs 
are needed! (grin-smile) I'm seriously considering digging up around the base 
of the wall that these 2 corners are on and doing the gravel thing and place 
pipes in the gravel to see if this takes away the run off or the surface water. 

As cold as you were saying it is where you are a snow bird home may appeal to 
you and your wife. I'm sure you'd really enjoy all the home projects. LOL!

Warm regards,

Mycell
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 8:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Well, it seeps pretty clear tat your septic leaching bed is getting saturated 
or at least isn't draining satisfactorily for the tank to handle the load. 
Probably a little of both. Pumping out the septic tank might be enough unless 
the tank is filling from the saturated leach bed.

  If your ground is flat you may need drainage into a tank and a sump pump to 
move the water out of it but pumping it onto a neighbours property won't make 
you friends.

  I am quite certain though that you will not succeed in sealing against water 
from the inside. It is difficult enough to keep water from coming into a boat 
and it is designed for the purpose. You have to keep the water from entering 
the building envelope in the first place.

  Grading the landscape and creating adequate drainage if it is ground water, 
stopping penetration if above grade infiltration as from driving rain will be 
the ultimate answers.

  Another option is to sell the home during the dry season.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi Dale and All,
  I personally believe that it is ground saturation, but what still confuses me 
is that only the corners are the issue. My neighbors across the street have 
some back up in their system also. Let me also explain that I am on a septic 
system instead of connection with the city sewer system. The only time anyone 
has check this area is when it has been slightly damp or dry. I really need to 
get down with someone who knows more than me and explore the foundation 
directly while someone else takes a physical look and I can lay hands on it. 
Pardon the pun! 

  Here in this area of Florida we have those torrential down pours for a few 
days not just with hurricanes but big thunder storms. As for 16 
below,--oou--oou that's chilly burr--burr; although, I am an avid cross country 
skier when and where I can and are in the appropriate weather that allows for 
such fun as skiing and ice skating. I learned as a child living in MI for a 
year or two. 

  I'll have someone come in and check the situation out and keep you all 
posted. 

  Max, asked me in another e-mail how I pronounced my name, its pronounced like 
the Y has a short I sound. I'll spell it phonetically Micelle with the emphasis 
on the second syllable. 

  Thanks for all of yawl's input and if anyone thinks of anything else please 
let me know.

  Warm regards,

  Mycell 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi,

  I think the sewer back-up is more likely to be a coincidental event. My bet 
there is that your main sewer lines are inadequate and that at least some of 
the storm sewer run-off is being channeled into the sanitary sewer lines. When 
there is a lot of rain the pipes can't carry it all so there isn't room for 
yours. It might be that there is drainage around your foundations which has 
been routed into the sewers too, I don't have any idea what the building 
standards or customs might be where you live or how they were executed in your 
particular situation.

  Sealing the floor is not likely to help much or for long. If the moisture is 
coming up from below and those corners of the building are just sitting in a 
saturated puddle the water will come through. Further, your ceramic tile is 
almost certainly impervious to water already. If it is coming up through the 
floor it will be the grout between the tiles which can be cleaned for 
appearance then sealed with special grout sealer, usually silicone based.

  I feel quite likely that your water is coming in at the base of the walls 
where they sit on the footing and is seeping across the floor immediately 
adjacent to the wall. Weather it is because of saturated ground right there as 
the level of the footing or it is coming in through cement block walls, 
draining down inside the blocks and migrating out at the bottom is more 
difficult to know about. Either way, sealing

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

[Dale Leavens]

I am contemplating east Texas!

It is again minus 17C already tonight (about 0F). 



  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 12:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Hi Dale,
  I thought about all your many choices and even the last one extremely 
seriously. Hey anyone want to buy a house in north Florida only miner repairs 
are needed! (grin-smile) I'm seriously considering digging up around the base 
of the wall that these 2 corners are on and doing the gravel thing and place 
pipes in the gravel to see if this takes away the run off or the surface water. 

  As cold as you were saying it is where you are a snow bird home may appeal to 
you and your wife. I'm sure you'd really enjoy all the home projects. LOL!

  Warm regards,

  Mycell
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 8:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Well, it seeps pretty clear tat your septic leaching bed is getting saturated 
or at least isn't draining satisfactorily for the tank to handle the load. 
Probably a little of both. Pumping out the septic tank might be enough unless 
the tank is filling from the saturated leach bed.

  If your ground is flat you may need drainage into a tank and a sump pump to 
move the water out of it but pumping it onto a neighbours property won't make 
you friends.

  I am quite certain though that you will not succeed in sealing against water 
from the inside. It is difficult enough to keep water from coming into a boat 
and it is designed for the purpose. You have to keep the water from entering 
the building envelope in the first place.

  Grading the landscape and creating adequate drainage if it is ground water, 
stopping penetration if above grade infiltration as from driving rain will be 
the ultimate answers.

  Another option is to sell the home during the dry season.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi Dale and All,
  I personally believe that it is ground saturation, but what still confuses me 
is that only the corners are the issue. My neighbors across the street have 
some back up in their system also. Let me also explain that I am on a septic 
system instead of connection with the city sewer system. The only time anyone 
has check this area is when it has been slightly damp or dry. I really need to 
get down with someone who knows more than me and explore the foundation 
directly while someone else takes a physical look and I can lay hands on it. 
Pardon the pun! 

  Here in this area of Florida we have those torrential down pours for a few 
days not just with hurricanes but big thunder storms. As for 16 
below,--oou--oou that's chilly burr--burr; although, I am an avid cross country 
skier when and where I can and are in the appropriate weather that allows for 
such fun as skiing and ice skating. I learned as a child living in MI for a 
year or two. 

  I'll have someone come in and check the situation out and keep you all 
posted. 

  Max, asked me in another e-mail how I pronounced my name, its pronounced like 
the Y has a short I sound. I'll spell it phonetically Micelle with the emphasis 
on the second syllable. 

  Thanks for all of yawl's input and if anyone thinks of anything else please 
let me know.

  Warm regards,

  Mycell 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

  Hi,

  I think the sewer back-up is more likely to be a coincidental event. My bet 
there is that your main sewer lines are inadequate and that at least some of 
the storm sewer run-off is being channeled into the sanitary sewer lines. When 
there is a lot of rain the pipes can't carry it all so there isn't room for 
yours. It might be that there is drainage around your foundations which has 
been routed into the sewers too, I don't have any idea what the building 
standards or customs might be where you live or how they were executed in your 
particular situation.

  Sealing the floor is not likely to help much or for long. If the moisture is 
coming up from below and those corners of the building are just sitting in a 
saturated puddle the water will come through. Further, your ceramic tile is 
almost certainly impervious to water already. If it is coming up through the 
floor it will be the grout between the tiles which can be cleaned for 
appearance then sealed with special grout sealer, usually silicone based.

  I feel quite likely that your water is coming in at the base of the walls 
where they sit on the footing and is seeping acro

[BlindHandyMan] putting together a cat tree

[Rita]

Cat trees are very expensive.  I am wondering if a lumber yard would be 
willing to cut a variety of shapes from some kind of wood and I could 
cover them with scraps of carpet.  Or would this be a complex project. 
Any advice?
Thanks for any tips to do this and keep it simple.  I could get some help, 
but not much.  Rita

Re: [BlindHandyMan] putting together a cat tree

[Betsy Whitney]

Aloha Rita,
We have made cat trees and scratching posts out of cardboard boxes 
and carpet scraps. Since boxes are so light, we put a couple of 
bricks in the center box to give it weight so it doesn't tip over.
Betsy
At 08:15 PM 11/22/2008, you wrote:

>Cat trees are very expensive. I am wondering if a lumber yard would be
>willing to cut a variety of shapes from some kind of wood and I could
>cover them with scraps of carpet. Or would this be a complex project.
>Any advice?
>Thanks for any tips to do this and keep it simple. I could get some help,
>but not much. Rita
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]