Re: [BlindHandyMan] what are the degrees on my compound sliding miter saw?
Sorry, my confusion, I understand what you meant. Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net On Jan 12, 2009, at 6:52 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: Sorry, I didn't mean to imply they go over to 90 degrees, I meant 90 degrees to the base, 0 degrees from vertical I suppose. Mine is too old to bevel right. I don't suppose it matters a bunch though. I do find that setting the saw for anything other than the 45 stop difficult. I usually make a template from the angle then use it to set the desired bevel. None of my measuring blocks is big enough to be very useful and even a sliding bevel square just isn't good enough. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 6:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] what are the degrees on my compound sliding miter saw? Yep, 15 degrees sounds right, I knew I was missing one. My Ridgit only bevels to one side, which is a bummer. I did not realize when I purchased it how much I wish it would have beveled to both sides. I have not seen one that would go the full 90 degrees, but that would be pretty slick. I just assumed 45 degrees was the limit. Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net On Jan 12, 2009, at 6:30 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: They may vary by model and you are close. I expect the stops are at 15, 22.5, 30 and 45 degrees. The tilt otherwise know as bevel sadly doesn't usually have any stops except at the end which is usually 45 degrees. There will usually be a bolt and nut or some other arrangement to fine tune the bevel angle to 90 or 45. I don't have one that bevels to both sides and I haven't really examined one closely enough to know how or if you can tune up the 90 degree perpendicular but I would bet there is a way. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 6:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] what are the degrees on my compound sliding miter saw? Matt, the tipping angle is typically 45 degrees. The stops likely are 0, 22.5, 30, and 45. I may be wrong, but that is what comes to mind based on my saw. Of course I may be recalling incorrectly, but I am sure the final stop to the left and right are 45 degrees. I tried labeling mine, but wasn't all that helpful. I even tried labeling the measuring strip on my table saw, but that was pointless. I could not get the labeling gun to make marks small enough and it just made more sense to measure and line everything up with the fence based on the measuring device. Wow, did that make sense? Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net On Jan 12, 2009, at 5:32 PM, Matt wrote: Hi ya, I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I've just never asked anybody to explain the degrees or numbers on each stop on my delta compound sliding miter saw. When I use it, I just throw what I am trying to copy up there and set the saw by that, or else, I'll figure it as best I can with my hands. I did go out and stick my square on there, and lined up blade so that it was at true middle or strait, or 0 or whatever you call it. Then I worked it through it's clicks to the left and right and counted. There seems to be 4 or 5 set stops which the table clicks into on either side. So you'd figure what, 10 degrees for each click? This saw also has a locking nut, which you can loosen and push it over to one side. What is that, if you have it laid all the way over? 45? 90? I read through the file from the list's web sight... love those files by the way. This was a file about cutting angles with the table saw. Still, I need more info. Thanks, Matt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] shopping for the click rule
I called AFB and the lady gave me this list of possible places which might carry the click rule. I called and not a one of them did. Any suggestions? maxi aides 800-522-6294 independent living aide 800-537-2118 lss group 800-468-4789 cap tech 800-888-7400 cap tek science something or other [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] shopping for the click rule
Matt, It is N F B as in National Federation of the Blind. Not A F B. You can order it directly from NFB. As far as I know, no one else carries these devices. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] shopping for the click rule
Matt, try the NFB, Materials Center. earlier, Matt, wrote: I called AFB and the lady gave me this list of possible places which might carry the click rule. I called and not a one of them did. Any suggestions? maxi aides 800-522-6294 independent living aide 800-537-2118 lss group 800-468-4789 cap tech 800-888-7400 cap tek science something or other [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.6/1891 - Release Date: 1/13/2009 8:17 AM John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Dan, how thick is the webbing of the I beam? Also, is this a structural beam? Also how big of a hole we talking about? Regardless, with steel you have to drill a pilot hole and run the drill motor at a slow pace. depending on the diameter of the hole and the thickness of the webbing you may have to gradually step up in drill sizes and squirt a little oil once in a while as you drill. Make sure you use good drill bits. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 8:17 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question
I have a thing for starting nails that is like a thick pair of plyers with various sized holes through the business end Thus when you open the plyers you open each hole in half. Grab a nail in the appropriate hole and hold the device against the surface, start the nail, and open the plyers to remove them. Havn't used it much cause I hate nails, but it seems to work. Believe got it from Harbor Freight Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question
Thanks Tom, who'd have thought it. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org Date: 01/13/2009 13:51 I have a thing for starting nails that is like a thick pair of plyers with various sized holes through the business end Thus when you open the plyers you open each hole in half. Grab a nail in the appropriate hole and hold the device against the surface, start the nail, and open the plyers to remove them. Havn't used it much cause I hate nails, but it seems to work. Believe got it from Harbor Freight Tom
RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Dan: We used to have a couple magnetic drill presses specifically meant for what you're thinking about. The ones we had had a 3/4 inch chuck and an extremely powerful electromagnet in the base. Obviously, the magnet operated independently of the drill motor. I think ours were made by Black and Decker. A good equipment rental outfit ought to have one of these. We provided a piece of chain or cable with ours after one was destroyed when the power went out unexpectedly. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu Date: 01/13/2009 10:22 OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Dan, I see no problem drilling a 3 quarters to 1 inch hole in the webbing of this load baring beam. I'm really surprise there's a steel beam in your home. I'd start of with a 1/8 inch bit, then 1/4, then 1/2, and then what ever your finishing hole size is going to be. Just keep in mind, you want to drill at a slow speed, especially when making the pilot hole or you'll burn your drill bit up. Good luck. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 11:23 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Brice, I am at work and so am just guessing at the dimensions of the i beam. The web is probably six inches high at least, I'm not sure I've ever groped it completely, I can only touch the bottom flange when standing on the ground. It is probably a quarter inch thick. This is a pretty structural member of the house. The basement of the house extends beyond the front wall of the house and under the front porch. There are two stub walls in the basement about three feet wide. The i beam sits on these walls and supports the front wall of the house above it. So, when you walk from the main basement, between the two stub walls, and under the beam, you are then standing in the part of the basement that is actually under the front porch. My ultimate goal is to move the main water line, and one set of pipes for a radiator up closer to the ceiling. If I am ever going to build a shop and finish the basement, moving these closer to the joists will give me more head room. The only pipe that would have to penetrate the i beam would be the one Copper water pipe, I think it is 3/4 inch. The water pipe comes in at the front of the house, up close to the ceiling. It then turns 90 down, drops below the i beam, then turns 90 to run horizontal again, to the back of the basement. In theory, I could put two mor 90s so that it does a U around the i beam, but I think that would end up acting like a trap and collect junk and be a problem. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Brice, I think the reason why there is this one steel beam is that the front wall of the house, which is a brick house, sits on this beam. The span of the beam is 15 feet end to end, with about three feet at either end supported on the stub walls. So about a nine foot unsupported span. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
great idea if Dan was drilling allot of holes, not worth it for one hole. - Original Message - From: Bill Stephan wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 12:27 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Dan: We used to have a couple magnetic drill presses specifically meant for what you're thinking about. The ones we had had a 3/4 inch chuck and an extremely powerful electromagnet in the base. Obviously, the magnet operated independently of the drill motor. I think ours were made by Black and Decker. A good equipment rental outfit ought to have one of these. We provided a piece of chain or cable with ours after one was destroyed when the power went out unexpectedly. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu Date: 01/13/2009 10:22 OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
[BlindHandyMan] Recall: Ryobi Corded Circular Saws
Ryobi Corded Circular Saws Sold Exclusively at Home Depot Recalled By One World Technologies Inc. Due to Laceration Hazard WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of Product: Ryobi Corded Circular Saws Units: About 12,400 Manufacturer: One World Technologies Inc., of Anderson, S.C. Hazard: The return spring on the circular saw's lower blade guard can break, posing a laceration hazard to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: None reported. Description: This recall involves Ryobi corded circular saws with the following model numbers: CSB123, CSB133L, and CSB142LZ. Circular saws included in this recall have manufacturing date codes between 0836 and 0842 on the data plate near the trigger handle of the saw. Circular saws with a green dot on or near the data plate and on the outside of the package are not subject to this recall. Sold exclusively at: Home Depot stores nationwide from October 2008 through November 2008 for between $30 and $70. Manufactured in: China Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the circular saw and contact One World Technologies Inc. to locate their nearest authorized service center to schedule a free repair. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact One World Technologies at (800) 525-2579 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's Web site at www.ryobitools.com To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recall product, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09088.html
[BlindHandyMan] miter saw stops
As someone mentioned it depends upon the manufacturer. I just asked Karen to look at mine. A Craftsman 10 slider. It has positive stops at 0, 15,22.5 31.6 and 45 degrees. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Say Dan, Is this beam parallel with the joists or do the joists sit on it? Would it be practical to go over the top of it rather than through it? Drilling quarter of an inch of steel like that with a hand drill doesn't sound like much fun to me. Mark the point well with a good sharp punch and fix yourself a really good platform if you must. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 2:23 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Brice, I am at work and so am just guessing at the dimensions of the i beam. The web is probably six inches high at least, I'm not sure I've ever groped it completely, I can only touch the bottom flange when standing on the ground. It is probably a quarter inch thick. This is a pretty structural member of the house. The basement of the house extends beyond the front wall of the house and under the front porch. There are two stub walls in the basement about three feet wide. The i beam sits on these walls and supports the front wall of the house above it. So, when you walk from the main basement, between the two stub walls, and under the beam, you are then standing in the part of the basement that is actually under the front porch. My ultimate goal is to move the main water line, and one set of pipes for a radiator up closer to the ceiling. If I am ever going to build a shop and finish the basement, moving these closer to the joists will give me more head room. The only pipe that would have to penetrate the i beam would be the one Copper water pipe, I think it is 3/4 inch. The water pipe comes in at the front of the house, up close to the ceiling. It then turns 90 down, drops below the i beam, then turns 90 to run horizontal again, to the back of the basement. In theory, I could put two mor 90s so that it does a U around the i beam, but I think that would end up acting like a trap and collect junk and be a problem. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] miter saw stops
My craftman has stops at 15, 22 1/2, 30, 31.6, 45, and 60. It has the same settings for the bevel without the 60 and instead of the 31.6 setting it has a31.9 setting. ...bob Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
That would take some of the integrity away from the strength. But there are a number of ways to go through it. I've opened the thin part of an I beam with a cutting torch. Not the best idea for under a house however. Another way would be to use a series of titanium, not titanium coated drill bits. There are other types of very hard drill types as well. I know from using both types of titanium in a drill press to be fair, as aposed to a hand drill, the titanium coated are nowhere near as impressive. If you can block out the noise and dust, you can get through one using a side wheel grinder, or a diamond blade in that new circular saw. But I'd want to support the beam wherever a hole was made to keep it strong. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 11:17 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Thanks all. I don't know when or if I will get to this. What do people think about making a U out of the water pipe to drop down, under, and back up on the other side of the I beam instead of going through it? This beam runs parallel to the other joists and there is no room above it. The front wall of the house is sitting on it. As usual, you guys give me lots to think about. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question
A pair of electrician's crimping pliers would do the same as they have little grooves all along the jaws, and being thinner than regular pliers would be able to hold something like a tack that can be murder to hold with your fingers. Being so short: by the time you have it, the tack, held, there is no exposed tack to whack. Jewel - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 8:48 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question I have a thing for starting nails that is like a thick pair of plyers with various sized holes through the business end Thus when you open the plyers you open each hole in half. Grab a nail in the appropriate hole and hold the device against the surface, start the nail, and open the plyers to remove them. Havn't used it much cause I hate nails, but it seems to work. Believe got it from Harbor Freight Tom Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_posit ion=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
The loop would be a whole lot easier than drilling through the beam. Since it is a 3 quarter line, chances of it becoming a trap are minimal because that is a main trunk line. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Thanks all. I don't know when or if I will get to this. What do people think about making a U out of the water pipe to drop down, under, and back up on the other side of the I beam instead of going through it? This beam runs parallel to the other joists and there is no room above it. The front wall of the house is sitting on it. As usual, you guys give me lots to think about. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Dan, I think going around the beam in a U shape with the pipe would be fine. If your are worried about sediment etc collecting in there, you could always use a couple of compression fittings (one on each side) so you could take it apart easily periodically and clean out any gunk thanks, Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:51 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Thanks all. I don't know when or if I will get to this. What do people think about making a U out of the water pipe to drop down, under, and back up on the other side of the I beam instead of going through it? This beam runs parallel to the other joists and there is no room above it. The front wall of the house is sitting on it. As usual, you guys give me lots to think about. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Just to make this more complicated, what if Dan, just for safety's sake, put a ball valve in the loop. That way he'd have something else to maintain on a regular basis. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 19:20 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. The loop would be a whole lot easier than drilling through the beam. Since it is a 3 quarter line, chances of it becoming a trap are minimal because that is a main trunk line. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Thanks all. I don't know when or if I will get to this. What do people think about making a U out of the water pipe to drop down, under, and back up on the other side of the I beam instead of going through it? This beam runs parallel to the other joists and there is no room above it. The front wall of the house is sitting on it. As usual, you guys give me lots to think about. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Brice: You're a better man than I am. Just the thought of holding a drill up with my head mashed against a joist or two for as long as it would take to drill a respectable hole in the I beams in my basement is enough to make me go out and spend Dan's money. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brice Mijares Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 15:31 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. great idea if Dan was drilling allot of holes, not worth it for one hole. - Original Message - From: Bill Stephan wstep...@everestkc. mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 12:27 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. Dan: We used to have a couple magnetic drill presses specifically meant for what you're thinking about. The ones we had had a 3/4 inch chuck and an extremely powerful electromagnet in the base. Obviously, the magnet operated independently of the drill motor. I think ours were made by Black and Decker. A good equipment rental outfit ought to have one of these. We provided a piece of chain or cable with ours after one was destroyed when the power went out unexpectedly. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc. mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Date: 01/13/2009 10:22 OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_ position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] miter saw stops
Hello all: I have a bosch b3915. It is a 10 sliding compound miter saw. The cool thing about it is the cast degree scale. And, yes, you can easily set up the saw by feel. Both the miter and bevel scales are raised. Stops are at 0, 15, 22.5 31.6 45 and 60. One of my woodworker buddies happened to run across this saw and thought I'd be able to feel the scales. Needless to say, He got several beers on my tab for that. The saw is made out of aluminum. I would rather have cast iron; but, I have to admit the aluminum has held up perfectly through many projects. It cuts as well as the day I baught it. Looks like this saw is still available. I've had mine for about 10 years or so. Here's the low-down: Features: Powerful 13.0 Amp motor, 2.8 max. tool HP Crown miter detents - 31.6° miter and 33.9° bevel detents for quick, accurate crown cuts Large 25 aluminum base with 3 extension for 28 total length - Provides extra support Tall 3-1/2 Fence - For easy bevel set-ups and increased crown molding cutting capacities Dual rail design - For superior accuracy Exclusive wedge-and-slot miter detent system - Consistent and precise miter angles Miter detent override - For easy setting of any setting for any neighboring angle Electric brake - For quick and repetitive cuts. Stops blade in seconds Cast and machined scales - Visible for the life of the saw Double insulated, UL listed, complies to OSHA Includes: 60 Tooth Carbide Tip Blade Workpiece Clamp Blade and Stop Wrench Fence and Base Wrench Directional Dust Chute Dust Bag B-3915 I hope this is helpful to the list. Terry
