[BlindHandyMan] splitting fire wood
many years ago when I was at Brother Geno's house in Maine head recieved a donation of lots of oak logs and parts as the power company had just cleared a big path nearby. what Geno had done as many of know to stop splitting wood en or fiberglass handles was to have a piece of iron pipe welded to his splittingmall. well let me tell you one heavy swing with that mall to a piece of oak sent new meaning to my spine. . Now I know why they make wooden and fiberglass handles for splitting malls. Lee -- Ocean, n.: A body of water occupying about two-thirds of a world made for man -- who has no gills. .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Rob , if I may. might ai ask what you paid for that load of wood. . when I last bought a loat like that in 85 it was $350 green or $450 seasoned but never all oak. that stuff is a sona of a gun to split by hand, in my opinion. Lee On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 10:10:43PM -0500, Rob Monitor wrote: > HI, Well I meant the logs are 24 in diameter and I have about 15 of them I > have bin cutting and splitting up the smaller ones just fine but the big > ones I just can't seem to move around that good I'm not a very big guy... > ROB FROM MINNESOTA > - Original Message - > From: clifford > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 8:47 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > > Dear Rob: > If your oak logs are 24 inches around, my math tells me that the logs are > less than eight inches in diameter, and I would think that a section of such > a log can be handled without difficulty. If the measurement is across the end > of the log, then a stick of oak which has a 24 inch diameter and is a foot > and a half long can be a load. I would suggest rolling the stick in to > position on your log splitter and hitting the button. Making a ramp, if > necessary, would be easier than splitting by hand, unless you are pretty good > with a mall > or as we call them here in hillbilly country, a go-devil. > If oak has nice straight grain, splitting a block which is only eighteen > inches long with a mall > should be fairly easy. My go-devil comes in at seven or eight pounds, and > on straight grained oak, a very satisfying sound accompanies the splitting of > the block with one strong strike. > When the grain is all squirrelly, then time to role the block to the > hydraulic splitter. > > Yours Truly, > > Clifford Wilson > - Original Message - > From: Rob Monitor > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:29 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws > with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of > oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a > 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood > splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then > cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move > it... > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 4346 (20090818) __ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > -- Ocean, n.: A body of water occupying about two-thirds of a world made for man -- who has no gills. .
[BlindHandyMan] Recall: Remote Switches Recalled by Woodstock International Due to Fire Hazard
Name of Product: Shop Fox Dust Collection Remote Switches Units: About 450 Manufacturer: Woodstock International, of Bellingham, Wash. Hazard: An incorrectly sized wire inside the remote switch can overheat, posing a fire hazard to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Woodstock International has received 10 reports of the remote switch overheating. No injuries were reported. Description: The recalled product is a remote dust collector switch, which remotely turns on and off a woodworking dust collector. The product is a black electrical outlet box that comes with two hand-held remote controls. The electrical outlet box has a label that reads "Remote Dust Collector Switch". Both the electrical box and remote controls have "Shop Fox" molded into the plastic on the top side of the product. Model numbers D3038 & D3346 were printed on the carton but not on the remote control unit. The recalled switches measure 4 and 13/16" long by 3 and 7/16" wide. Sold by: Woodworking stores nationwide from July 2008 through June 2009 for about $50. Manufactured in: China Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled product and contact Woodstock International for directions on how to receive a replacement or a full refund. Consumer Contact: For additional information, please contact Woodstock International at (800) 840-8420 between 7 a.m. and 5 p.m. PT Monday through Friday, visit the firm's Web site at www.Woodstockint.com , or e-mail the firm at sa...@woodstockint.com To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled product, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09308.html Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
HI, Well I meant the logs are 24 in diameter and I have about 15 of them I have bin cutting and splitting up the smaller ones just fine but the big ones I just can't seem to move around that good I'm not a very big guy... ROB FROM MINNESOTA - Original Message - From: clifford To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 8:47 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. Dear Rob: If your oak logs are 24 inches around, my math tells me that the logs are less than eight inches in diameter, and I would think that a section of such a log can be handled without difficulty. If the measurement is across the end of the log, then a stick of oak which has a 24 inch diameter and is a foot and a half long can be a load. I would suggest rolling the stick in to position on your log splitter and hitting the button. Making a ramp, if necessary, would be easier than splitting by hand, unless you are pretty good with a mall or as we call them here in hillbilly country, a go-devil. If oak has nice straight grain, splitting a block which is only eighteen inches long with a mall should be fairly easy. My go-devil comes in at seven or eight pounds, and on straight grained oak, a very satisfying sound accompanies the splitting of the block with one strong strike. When the grain is all squirrelly, then time to role the block to the hydraulic splitter. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move it... THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4346 (20090818) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Dear Rob: If your oak logs are 24 inches around, my math tells me that the logs are less than eight inches in diameter, and I would think that a section of such a log can be handled without difficulty. If the measurement is across the end of the log, then a stick of oak which has a 24 inch diameter and is a foot and a half long can be a load. I would suggest rolling the stick in to position on your log splitter and hitting the button. Making a ramp, if necessary, would be easier than splitting by hand, unless you are pretty good with a mall or as we call them here in hillbilly country, a go-devil. If oak has nice straight grain, splitting a block which is only eighteen inches long with a mall should be fairly easy. My go-devil comes in at seven or eight pounds, and on straight grained oak, a very satisfying sound accompanies the splitting of the block with one strong strike. When the grain is all squirrelly, then time to role the block to the hydraulic splitter. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move it... THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4346 (20090818) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Re: chainsaws..
Hi Rob, Yes, you can rip a log length ways. But you should use a ripping chain your saw came with a cross cut chain. Having said that, I have ripped some and its harder then it looks, when starting the cut kick back is a huge threat.Also good balance is hard to find. I believe they make a splitting maul that's like a slide hammer so no swinging, use it for the first split. Well that's my two cents. Archie > > - Original Message - > From: Rob Monitor > Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 pm > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a > > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking > > this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around > > and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I > > can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was > > thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the > > 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could > > move it... > > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Rob, I think if it was me I would cross-cut those 24 inch logs into 12 or 16 inch pieces, then make the first split in each piece with a couple of wedges and a sledge hammer. Nice straight grained oak should split pretty easy, especially after it freezes in the winter. After their split once you should be able to Easily get them up onto the log splitter by yourself. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move it... THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4346 (20090818) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4346 (20090818) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Certainly you can cut along the grain with a chainsaw. They do it with special mills for slabbing off really large logs before presenting them to a saw mil. You can do it horizontally if you are strong enough to hold the saw. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 4:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. HI, Well I have no way of using a engine hoist or any thing like that.. The logs are stacked on top of each other I had a logger bring a 10 cord load in 8 foot Lank's... So I think the bottom logs will be ground cover.. But there is a lot of logs on top of the bottom ones that I can still use if I can cut them and move them... So do you think that a guy could cut the logs the long way OK?? ROB FROM MINNESOTA - Original Message - From: wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. Rob: I haven't thought this all the way through, but is there a way you can hang a chain hoist near where you're working, then lift your log and move the splitter under it? Or, do you have access to something like a knockdown engine hoist? Also, how are you able to cut these without your saw hitting the ground? Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking > this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around > and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I > can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was > thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the > 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could > move it... > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
all that beautiful oak for fire wood cringe!!! wood worker pouting in Minnesota Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Holy Shit Rob!!! You want to use a chainsaw to split logs on a pile??? Man, just cross-cutting piled logs is a dangerous matter, I know because I used to do that. The nose of the chainsaw bar has a nasty way of catching the log along side or underneath and kicking back at the operator. Can't you get hold of a pry bar of some kind to maneuver the log you're about to cut so you're not at such risk of getting hurt. This is a dangerously risky thing you're considering doing. ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a Hen. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Hog
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Rob, To answer your question, in a word, YES. Many years ago (when I could still see) I came across a product that was, in essence, a miter to attach to the chainsaw bar so you could actually rough saw boards from a large log. The idea was that you would keep this "guide" on the outside of the log and cut along the log at whatever width you had this guide set to so when finished you would conceivably have a reasonably uniformly thick board. There's no reason you couldn't use a chainsaw to "split" the log, but as to the safety I have serious questions. If nothing else, merely straddling the log with a screaming chainsaw in your hands is cause for concern; it would be so easy to misstep, slip on the log and get seriously hurt. ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Bill in Wisconsin E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a Hen. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Hog - Original Message - From: "Rob Monitor" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move it... THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
bRob: I don't know whether it would be possible to do that or not, probably somebody here though does know. I guess I'd be a little concerned about logs shifting and rolling if I were working on a stack of wood. Good luck with this and let us know what you wind up doing. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:41 pm Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > HI, Well I have no way of using a engine hoist or any thing like > that.. The logs are stacked on top of each other I had a logger > bring a 10 cord load in 8 foot Lank's... So I think the bottom > logs will be ground cover.. But there is a lot of logs on top of > the bottom ones that I can still use if I can cut them and move > them... So do you think that a guy could cut the logs the long way > OK?? > > ROB FROM MINNESOTA > - Original Message - > From: wstep...@everestkc.net > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:11 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > > > Rob: I haven't thought this all the way through, but is there a > way you can hang a chain hoist near where you're working, then > lift your log and move the splitter under it? Or, do you have > access to something like a knockdown engine hoist? Also, how are > you able to cut these without your saw hitting the ground? > > Bill Stephan > Kansas Citty MO > Email: wstep...@everestkc.net > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > - Original Message - > From: Rob Monitor > Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 pm > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way > with a > > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking > > this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches > around > > and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log > I > > can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was > > thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut > the > > 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I > could > > move it... > > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
HI, Well I have no way of using a engine hoist or any thing like that.. The logs are stacked on top of each other I had a logger bring a 10 cord load in 8 foot Lank's... So I think the bottom logs will be ground cover.. But there is a lot of logs on top of the bottom ones that I can still use if I can cut them and move them... So do you think that a guy could cut the logs the long way OK?? ROB FROM MINNESOTA - Original Message - From: wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. Rob: I haven't thought this all the way through, but is there a way you can hang a chain hoist near where you're working, then lift your log and move the splitter under it? Or, do you have access to something like a knockdown engine hoist? Also, how are you able to cut these without your saw hitting the ground? Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking > this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around > and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I > can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was > thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the > 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could > move it... > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Rob: I haven't thought this all the way through, but is there a way you can hang a chain hoist near where you're working, then lift your log and move the splitter under it? Or, do you have access to something like a knockdown engine hoist? Also, how are you able to cut these without your saw hitting the ground? Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking > this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around > and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I > can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was > thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the > 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could > move it... >THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
Rob: I haven't thought this all the way through, but is there a way you can hang a chain hoist near where you're working, then lift your log and move the splitter under it? Or, do you have access to something like a knockdown engine hoist? Also, how are you able to cut these without your saw hitting the ground? Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:29 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking > this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around > and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I > can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was > thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the > 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could > move it... >THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
[BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..
HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move it... THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clog Cannon!
If one has a drain that keeps getting stopped up, there is a product I recommend. It is a flexable trap. The trap can be squeezed or moved in such a way to release the blockage. Terry
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clog Cannon!
Tom is quite right when he says the drain pipes are not designed to take a lot of pressure. And I've seen other posts on this thread concerning a product that used to be available that was simply a can of air under high pressure. I used to use those quite effectively when I lived in Wheaton and could buy them at the local True Value hardware store. I never had a problem using the high-pressure aerosol cans, but then I never placed the can over the drain to just push the debris downstream. I would apply short bursts of compressed air to the drain in one to two second intervals (as was advised on the can's directions). It acted much like you would use a plunger in that it would tend to jiggle the blockage to a point where it could come loose and be rinsed down the drain. ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a Hen. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Hog
Re: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks
Why not find an old milk can, I believe you could get one up to 10 gallons. Or there used to be these boiling pots; my grandpa used to have one of these tubs for butchering hogs (you submerge the DEAD animal into the boiling water to facilitate cleaning hair off the hide). ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Hog
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: following straight lines:
Is there any way you could construct a "curb" to follow. When I prepare for winter (and myself doing the snowblowing) I edge one side of my sidewalks with 4" × 4" boards raised on bricks (to enhance the tactile-ability) and am then able to follow these "curb guides" with the housing of the snow blower. I'd think you could buy some 4" by 4" by 8' such boards, join them together and then use this "curb" to dig a straight trench from start to finish. ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a produckt safty question
I don't think it will stick to the paint. If you rough up the paint to give the epoxy something to grab, then you damage the integrity of the paint and give rust a way in. If it was originally put on with sheet metal screws, you might be able to stuff the holes with epoxy body filler, let it dry, and re-drill holes in the filler for the screws. tom Fowle On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 10:50:31AM +0100, carl wrote: > i'm thinking of useing it to keep my muthers wing mirror on the car as it > keeps falling off > - Original Message - > From: Dale Leavens > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:02 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a produckt safty question > > > Probably nothing to worry about. > > Is this for bonding something? > > I have heard nasty stories, one about a baby sitter who sat on a toilet > seat which had been painted with d paint which had not fully cured and > remained stuck there. I don't believe it was probably true though, who would > leave something like that unprotected in a home with kids after all. > > The epoxy resins used in fiber glass can be very sticky at certain points > in the curing and if you get it on yourself you pretty well have to wear it > off. > > Generally it cures best at about 21C. There are special formulations for > other temperatures and you can adjust that by how much catalyst you put in > when you mix it. If working in cooler conditions add a little more. > > Be aware though that if you add too much it will cure rapidly and get > pretty warm. It can get so hot as to spontaneously combust but you need to be > using a lot of it as for example glassing the bottom of a boat. > > I can't think of any other issues. The fumes aren't particularly bad but > not pleasant. > > Good luck. > > - Original Message - > From: carl > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:18 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a produckt safty question > > i'm thinking of useing apoxy rezen for a job is thair anything i need to > bee awair of? > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clog Cannon!
Jennifer, If the clog is "down stream" of a branch to another drain, you'll just blow all the gunk back up that other drain. Also if you have old drain pipes, you stand a very good chance of breaking something. I even managed that with just a plunger over used. You can also blow stuff up the roof vent pipe and give the birds a big thrill! Even plungers aren't meant to provide lots of downward pressure, but to just "jiggle" things about to loosen the clog. Unlike supply pipes, drains are not meant to take pressure. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks
tony, that is very weird, as the only thing I know about MU metalis that its the only substance around that actually can provide shielding against magnetic fields. that can't be the reason it would be used to line a hot water tank. It also has a pretty low melting point. HMM-- tom On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 05:12:35PM -0500, Tony wrote: > While most of them are, my dad paid an extra $10 to get one that was lined > with something called mu metal. That was in 1955 and he is still using it. > > Tony > > > -Original Message- > From: Lee A. Stone [mailto:se...@mailsent.net] > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 4:14 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks > > > are all hot water tanks glass lined? Lee > > > On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at > 04:07:29PM -0500, Jennifer Jackson wrote: > > So what is on the inside of a hot water tank? Does anyone know what they > are usually made of? > > > > > > Jennifer > > > > - Original Message - > > From: Jennifer Jackson > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 4:04 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks > > > > > > I think he is planning to use a second heat source, not the heating > source from the hot water tank. I think the tank is just supposed to be the > pot. I am not certain though. > > > > Jennifer > > > > - Original Message - > > From: Lenny McHugh > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:42 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks > > > > Hi Jennifer, > > What an interesting concept. I don't think it will work for him. When he > > > looks at the inside of an old tank I do believe he will quickly change > his > > mind. Also is this a gas or electric heater? A gas might work better > since > > the heating element will not be in direct contact with the fabric. I by > no > > means am an expert but I really doubt if it will be successful. > > - Original Message - > > From: "Jennifer Jackson" > > To: > > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 4:25 PM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks > > > > Guys, > > > > I think a friend is making a dangerous mistake and I want your thoughts > on > > this please. He wants to take the top off of an old hot water tank and > then > > turn the thing upside down and use it like a big cooking pot. Not for > > actual food, he wants to use it to dye fabric, but this still involves > > boiling water. So if it can be done, can it be done safely? > > > > Jennifer > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p > age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > > Or > > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various > > List Members At The Following address: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > > > Visit the archives page at the following address > > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > > address for more information: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list > > just send a blank message to: > > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > __ NOD32 4343 (20090817) Information __ > > > > This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > -- > Speaking of purchasing a dog, never buy a watchdog that's on sale. > After all, everyone knows a bargain dog never bites! > . > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p > age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.m
Re: [BlindHandyMan] old water tanks
I agree an electric tank won't do because the element is inside the tank and would have contact with the fabric. In the case of gas, you will loose the connections to the flue when you cut the top off and that has to be delt with somehow. Also I think there is fiberglass lining between the shell and the tank, some kind of cover will have to be made to protect the top edges of that mess. Unless some means of venting the gas burner can be made safe it's surely need to be out doors. I think the idea of a modified heater with big pot sounds a lot more doable. tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: following straight lines:
Probably depending on accellerometers. that might work at speed because the speed at 90 degrees to gravity would show up well in accelleration as the course changed Doesn't work at walking speed. Several people including Mike May's company have tried walking speed inertial nav systems and found that walking speed is not detectable in the "noise' of gravity and general vibration. So you're gonna need a really snappy ditch digger! Tom On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 04:56:56PM -0400, Dan Rossi wrote: > Probably not much use here, but one of the crazy blind Brits who set a > land speed record used an inertial navigation system that was extremely > sensitive and, if I remember correctly, rather than audible tones, it had > two pager vibrators, one on either side of his neck. As he careened down > the track, the vibrators would buzz if he veered off the centerline. > > Just trying to add some color to the conversation. > > -- > Blue skies. > Dan Rossi > Carnegie Mellon University. > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > Tel: (412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: following straight lines:
Dale, Of course you're quite correct. Even using a gyroscope and magnetic compass as aircraft do, short term straightness is anything but easy. As you say, the front of the mower can go off long before you know it. I think most of us would wind up with snake ditches. tom On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 04:48:44PM -0400, Dale Leavens wrote: > It is a lot more complicated than that. > > I have a self propelled lawn mower. I have some very clearly defined boarders > and have practiced many times trying to guide it along in a straight line > parallel to where I am walking. There are several techniques I have used. A > really thick rope stretched tightly along the ground can be followed by the > feet, a very straight line but the front wheels of the mower are at least > five feet in front of the operator's feet. The machine can be several inches > off of line before the operator can detect it. > > It doesn't get a whole lot better walking along beside the handle of the > mower, close enough to be able to operate the clutch handle and retain the > safety shut-off but still at least two feet closer to the wheels, it is still > very difficult to calculate and adjust to keep the machine running straight > and parallel to the rope I am walking along. > > As a dedicated mobility device though, there are already many. Aircraft have > very accurate directional devices, it would be possible to calibrate already > available technology for the purpose but again, without the ability to > recalibrate according to small changes like maybe walking around a tree, just > following a straight line has quite limited value. Robots can go in a very > straight line if necessary but mostly it isn't a very useful ability. > > > > - Original Message - > From: Tom Fowle > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:59 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: following straight lines: > > > Max, > We just bought some from U.S. digital that resolve to ten thousand divisions > per revolution they're about $95.00 each without the counting electronics. > Somebody who remembers trig would have to decide how far you could travel > before getting signifficantly off course with that kind of resolution > available > > I think a 64 step per rev unit might doo pretty well, or maybe a 256. I > think they'd cost in the neighborhood of forty bucks. > > Maybe the tape and winder or some simpler windup string might be cheaper! > > > Tom > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 09:20:53PM -0500, Max Robinson wrote: > > I was thinking more along the lines of a shaft encoder but they can get a > > bit pricy. > > > > Regards. > > > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > > > Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com > > > > Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net > > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net > > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > > funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Tom Fowle" > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 8:34 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: following straight lines: > > > > > > > Max, > > > I suspect you'd have some trouble with the tape join to the presumed > pot > > > on > > > the helmet, and with the resolution of the pot. I actually think you'd > > > get > > > better resolution of the angle with my second idea, having a pointer on > > > the > > > digger, in front of you, to check against the tape. > > > > > > At work, we've actually talked a bit about studying techniques for > > > following > > > straight lines. Might put this in the hopper. Paper in a few years or so > > > > > > > > > Tom > > > > > > On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 09:51:53PM -0500, Max Robinson wrote: > > >> Interesting. An extension of this would be to use an angle sensor that > > >> will > > >> control a tone generator like the auditory gimmick. When the tape is > > >> straight ahead or behind the tone would be at it's lowest. If you got > > >> off > > >> line the tone would increase. You could easily tell which way to turn > by > > >> experimentally turning your head to see which way you are off. > > >> > > >> Regards. > > >> > > >> Max. K 4 O D S. > > >> > > >> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com > > >> > > >> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net > > >> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net > > >> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > >> > > >> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > > >> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com > > >> > > >> - Original Message - > > >> From: "Tom Fowle" > > >> To: > > >> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:56 AM > > >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: following straight lines: > > >> > > >> > > >> > Actually I wonder if a sel
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a produckt safty question
i'm thinking of useing it to keep my muthers wing mirror on the car as it keeps falling off - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a produckt safty question Probably nothing to worry about. Is this for bonding something? I have heard nasty stories, one about a baby sitter who sat on a toilet seat which had been painted with d paint which had not fully cured and remained stuck there. I don't believe it was probably true though, who would leave something like that unprotected in a home with kids after all. The epoxy resins used in fiber glass can be very sticky at certain points in the curing and if you get it on yourself you pretty well have to wear it off. Generally it cures best at about 21C. There are special formulations for other temperatures and you can adjust that by how much catalyst you put in when you mix it. If working in cooler conditions add a little more. Be aware though that if you add too much it will cure rapidly and get pretty warm. It can get so hot as to spontaneously combust but you need to be using a lot of it as for example glassing the bottom of a boat. I can't think of any other issues. The fumes aren't particularly bad but not pleasant. Good luck. - Original Message - From: carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a produckt safty question i'm thinking of useing apoxy rezen for a job is thair anything i need to bee awair of? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
