Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Scott Howell]

I would not plug a computer into a light socket for any reason.  Your better 
off installing an proper outlet.  There is nothing to be gained by feeding 
extension cords through walls etc. and certainly not using a light socket. Of 
course this is just my opinion and I am not an electrician. My concern would be 
the amount of current being drawn, possible overheating of the light socket, 
and I am not an insurance expert either, but let's just say it was not up to 
code using a light socket in this manner and there was a fire. It is possible 
the insurance company would use this as a means to avoid paying a claim. Just a 
few thoughts.
On Jan 21, 2010, at 9:35 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> Well the least expensive will be to avoid an electrician. I don't think the 
> light socket will be harmed running a computer. My concern is the weight of 
> the cord staying plugged in at that height and angle. I'd not drill a hole in 
> the wall and run a cord through the hole. That will look worse than a cord 
> running along the wall. 
> 
> What you can do if you don't care what it looks like inside the closet would 
> be to plug a short extension cord into the light socket and then a couple 
> pieces of Gorilla tape across the cord would keep it from pulling out because 
> of its weight. Red neck I know but it would work. 
> 
> While you're at it, you may want to run a piece of tape across the light 
> switch so it doesn't get turned off while the computer is running. It would 
> be a reminder strip. 
> - Original Message - 
> From: Jennifer Jackson 
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has 
> certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the 
> things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my 
> dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories 
> inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, 
> but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.
> 
> I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner 
> to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly 
> hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and 
> I have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, 
> but I am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an 
> electrical draw on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is 
> used for installing deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that 
> is shared with my living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. 
> Lastly, I could have an electrician or some other skilled person install a 
> new outlet in the closet.
> 
> I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. 
> So given that, what are your thoughts please?
> 
> Jennifer
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Blaine Deutscher]

it really depends on what size of a hole you have to drill in the wall. If 
your putting an ethernet cable through the wall then a little hole will be 
required but to put the end of an extention chord through might be  a little 
big, It's better to take a router or something and cut a hole the size of an 
electrical outlet, cut electricity to that area so you can install the new 
plug, and put the plug in and the plate on top and screw it in and you 
should have cable. If you have any friends that can do that then great. Not 
sure how much one would cost at Canadian Tire or home depo but worth the 
look.

Blaine
- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Howell" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question


I would not plug a computer into a light socket for any reason.  Your better 
off installing an proper outlet.  There is nothing to be gained by feeding 
extension cords through walls etc. and certainly not using a light socket. 
Of course this is just my opinion and I am not an electrician. My concern 
would be the amount of current being drawn, possible overheating of the 
light socket, and I am not an insurance expert either, but let's just say it 
was not up to code using a light socket in this manner and there was a fire. 
It is possible the insurance company would use this as a means to avoid 
paying a claim. Just a few thoughts.
On Jan 21, 2010, at 9:35 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> Well the least expensive will be to avoid an electrician. I don't think 
> the light socket will be harmed running a computer. My concern is the 
> weight of the cord staying plugged in at that height and angle. I'd not 
> drill a hole in the wall and run a cord through the hole. That will look 
> worse than a cord running along the wall.
>
> What you can do if you don't care what it looks like inside the closet 
> would be to plug a short extension cord into the light socket and then a 
> couple pieces of Gorilla tape across the cord would keep it from pulling 
> out because of its weight. Red neck I know but it would work.
>
> While you're at it, you may want to run a piece of tape across the light 
> switch so it doesn't get turned off while the computer is running. It 
> would be a reminder strip.
> - Original Message - 
> From: Jennifer Jackson
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It 
> has certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of 
> the things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to 
> monopolize my dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all 
> it's accessories inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is 
> going to fit nicely, but I am not certain about my best choice for the 
> electrical supply.
>
> I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the 
> corner to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an 
> unsightly hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on 
> the wall, and I have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to 
> screw into that, but I am concerned that it might not be meant to have 
> that much of an electrical draw on it. My third idea is to use the bit on 
> the drill that is used for installing deadbolts and making a small round 
> whole in the wall that is shared with my living room and just plugging it 
> into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an electrician or some other 
> skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.
>
> I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on 
> this. So given that, what are your thoughts please?
>
> Jennifer
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Dan Rossi]

I agree with Scott, Ron, Dale, and Bob.  I don't like the idea of using 
the light socket as an outlet for many reasons, grounding being a big one, 
accidentally ripping the fixture out of the ceiling being another.  Maybe 
someone with more knowledge than I can weigh in with some real 
information, but I didn't think that a light socket was designed to pull a 
lot of current through it.  A computer, speakers, and monitor shouldn't be 
drawing 15 amps or anything, but still.

If the outlet in the living room is on the outside of the closet wall, it 
would be easy enough to put an outlet in the closet, or turn the existing 
one around.

I realize you may not want to do that work yourself, and electricians 
don't come cheap.  So, I'm not sure what the best solution is for you.

Sorry, just wanted to reinforce what others have said so far.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[BlindHandyMan] Recall: Lysol Steam Cleaning Mop Recalled by Conair Corp. Due to Burn and Laceration Hazards

[Betsy Whitney]

Name of Product: Lysol Steam Cleaning Mop

Units: About 162,000

Distributor: Conair Corp., of Stamford, Conn.

Hazard: Hot water mixed with Lysol can forcefully spurt out and 
rupture the housing unit, posing a burn hazard and a laceration 
hazard to consumers from
the broken housing unit.

Incidents/Injuries: Conair has received 14 reports of hot water 
forcefully spilling out of the water reservoir compartment including 
two minor burn injuries
to consumers who sought medical attention.

Description: This recall involves the Lysol Steam Cleaning Mop by 
Conair with model numbers SM10L or SM10LR. The model number is 
printed on the bottom of
the mop under the microfiber cloth.

Sold at: Department, drug, hardware and home improvement stores and 
mass merchandisers nationwide and on the Internet from September 2006 
through September
2009 for about $40.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled mop and 
contact Conair to receive a free replacement steam cleaning mop.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Conair at (800) 
687-6916 between 8:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or 
visit the firm's
Web site at
www.conair.com/recallmop

To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the 
recalled product, please go to:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml10/10117.html
Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Rick Hume]

I agree with those that do not think using the light socket to tap in is a good 
idea.  One other thing that I will add, is that you want to know what is on any 
line that you do tap into.  For instance, it is not good to tap into the line 
that your washer and dryer are on.  This line may have spiking issues caused by 
the appliances.  Computers do not like spikes in the power flow.  I learned the 
bad way years ago, and now have a dedicated line for my computer and 
peripherals.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question



  Hello Everyone,

  I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has 
certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the 
things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my 
dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories 
inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, 
but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.

  I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner 
to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly 
hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and I 
have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, but I 
am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an electrical draw 
on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is used for installing 
deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that is shared with my 
living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an 
electrician or some other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.

  I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. 
So given that, what are your thoughts please?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[john schwery]

Jennifer, my concern about a pc in a closet is 
ventilation.  I'm wondering if your pc might get a bit hot, in there.

earlier, Jennifer Jackson, wrote:
>
>
>Hello Everyone,
>
>I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home 
>since the flood last week. It has certainly 
>encouraged me in my desire to downsize and 
>declutter. One of the things I have done is to 
>get rid of the giant desk that used to 
>monopolize my dining room and I am planning to 
>set up my computer and all it's accessories 
>inside the closet that is under my stairs. 
>Everything is going to fit nicely, but I am not 
>certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.
>
>I could, of course, just run a power strip with 
>a long cord around the corner to the nearest 
>outlet outside the closet. This however creates 
>an unsightly hazard that collects dust and 
>stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and 
>I have considered getting one of those outlet 
>adapters to screw into that, but I am concerned 
>that it might not be meant to have that much of 
>an electrical draw on it. My third idea is to 
>use the bit on the drill that is used for 
>installing deadbolts and making a small round 
>whole in the wall that is shared with my living 
>room and just plugging it into the outlet there. 
>Lastly, I could have an electrician or some 
>other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.
>
>I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of 
>expense and effort on this. So given that, what are your thoughts please?
>
>Jennifer
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

John
Currently in Ocala, Florida Mostly Cloudy, 66°F Wind:SW-230° at 7mph
* Money Isn't Everything, but It Sure Keeps the Kids in Touch
Created by Weather Signature v1.31 • http://www.weathersig.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[RJ]

If you don't care to spend the dough on putting in a receptacle, than drill the 
hole.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 21:24
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question



  Hello Everyone,

  I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has 
certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the 
things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my 
dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories 
inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, 
but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.

  I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner 
to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly 
hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and I 
have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, but I 
am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an electrical draw 
on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is used for installing 
deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that is shared with my 
living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an 
electrician or some other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.

  I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. 
So given that, what are your thoughts please?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[RJ]

The problem is, I don't believe there is a ground to the attachment for the 
socket.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 21:35
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question



  Well the least expensive will be to avoid an electrician. I don't think the 
light socket will be harmed running a computer. My concern is the weight of the 
cord staying plugged in at that height and angle. I'd not drill a hole in the 
wall and run a cord through the hole. That will look worse than a cord running 
along the wall. 

  What you can do if you don't care what it looks like inside the closet would 
be to plug a short extension cord into the light socket and then a couple 
pieces of Gorilla tape across the cord would keep it from pulling out because 
of its weight. Red neck I know but it would work. 

  While you're at it, you may want to run a piece of tape across the light 
switch so it doesn't get turned off while the computer is running. It would be 
a reminder strip. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

  Hello Everyone,

  I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has 
certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the 
things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my 
dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories 
inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, 
but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.

  I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner 
to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly 
hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and I 
have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, but I 
am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an electrical draw 
on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is used for installing 
deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that is shared with my 
living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an 
electrician or some other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.

  I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. 
So given that, what are your thoughts please?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] click rule question

[Lenny McHugh]

I am not sure, did I get the correct pieces? I have the main unit and three 
one foot extensions? I wanted to cut a 40 inch piece off an eight foot  2x4. 
If there was a six inch extension this would be no problem.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





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[BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

[Betsy Whitney]

Aloha everyone,
Have any of you purchase the metal tape measure from Maxi Aids? My 
friend bought one and says that it has a piece of plastic sticking 
out from the end of the device. The plastic is about 6 inches long. 
Anyone know anything about this thing?
TIA, Betsy
Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] click rule question

[Bob Kennedy]

I don't think the click rule comes with a 6 inch.  Mine came with the 3 one 
footers too.
- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" 
To: "handyman-blind" 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 6:02 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] click rule question


>I am not sure, did I get the correct pieces? I have the main unit and three
> one foot extensions? I wanted to cut a 40 inch piece off an eight foot 
> 2x4.
> If there was a six inch extension this would be no problem.
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.lennymchugh.com
> Lenny
> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
> addressing.
> Help stop identity theft.
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

[frank cunningham]

Betsy, it is a 6 inch ruler that can be detached if you wish.  The tape slides 
under the ruler as you pull it out.
Frank

  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 6:07 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids



  Aloha everyone,
  Have any of you purchase the metal tape measure from Maxi Aids? My 
  friend bought one and says that it has a piece of plastic sticking 
  out from the end of the device. The plastic is about 6 inches long. 
  Anyone know anything about this thing?
  TIA, Betsy
  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

[Bob Kennedy]

Yeah they went from aluminum to plastic.  That is a 6 inch ruler marked off in 
eighths of an inch.  The idea is to pull out the tape and line up the marking 
on the tape with the end of the ruler.  The tape itself is only marked every 6 
inches with the actual footage marked on the top side of the tape.  

So if you are measuring something that is 27 inches long, you would pull out 
the tape until the mark for 24 inches lined up with the end of the ruler.  Then 
you can count off the remaining 3 inches on the ruler.  You don't have to know 
how long something is before you measure it, you just have to stop 6 inches 
short and count the rest off on the ruler part.

Each half inch has a single raised dot and each inch has double dots.  And if 
you are holding the tape in your right hand with the plastic ruler facing to 
your left, there are little lines, more so than dots,  along the edge farthest 
away from you.  

Sounds complicated but it's pretty easy to catch on to.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 6:07 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids



  Aloha everyone,
  Have any of you purchase the metal tape measure from Maxi Aids? My 
  friend bought one and says that it has a piece of plastic sticking 
  out from the end of the device. The plastic is about 6 inches long. 
  Anyone know anything about this thing?
  TIA, Betsy
  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

[Blaine Deutscher]

hey there. I've used this tape measure and it's wonderful. On the actual 
tape every six intches there is a measurement marker and for every foot two 
dots. actually when it's two feet, three feet, ... it has the braile number 
and then a dot on the other end so that you can pull it out and feel the 
feet and know that it's a foot. If you want 4 feet 3 intches you put the end 
of the plastic piece on the 4 foot marker and count out three intches. The 
intches are marked with two dots in a vertickle row well a half an intch is 
one, if I remember that correctly.

- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 5:07 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids



Aloha everyone,
Have any of you purchase the metal tape measure from Maxi Aids? My
friend bought one and says that it has a piece of plastic sticking
out from the end of the device. The plastic is about 6 inches long.
Anyone know anything about this thing?
TIA, Betsy
Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] forget last message,

[Lenny McHugh]

The 42 inch was no problem, the 19 inch was the problem.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Tom Vos]

I'd go with the electrical outlet, simply for the grounding.
My understanding is that a surge suppressor needs to be grounded through the
outlet to work properly.
This is not a difficult job.  Maybe you can find a friend or relative to
help you with it, rather than paying an electrician.
Blessings,
Tom


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] figured out click rule

[Lenny McHugh]

Well, there an old Pennsylvania dutch saying "the hurrier I go, the behinder 
I get". I was in a reallyhurry to make the measurements. I just sat down and 
toyed with the unit. It is not difficult when you think about it. for the 19 
inch slide the rule out 1 inch and use a 1 foot extension this will give me 
the 19 inch length and similar for the 42. I have been known in the past not 
to think things through. Part of being 63
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

[Don Raikes]

Yes I bought it.

 

The plastic is a 6-inch ruler incremented by eighths.

 

The tape itself is only marked every 6 inches so to get a more accurate 
measure, you have to line up the end of the ruler with one of the marks and 
then calculate from there.

 

From: Betsy Whitney [mailto:braill...@hawaii.rr.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 4:08 PM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

 

  

Aloha everyone,
Have any of you purchase the metal tape measure from Maxi Aids? My 
friend bought one and says that it has a piece of plastic sticking 
out from the end of the device. The plastic is about 6 inches long. 
Anyone know anything about this thing?
TIA, Betsy
Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] click rule question

[Bill Gallik]

I don't understand where there is a problem as you got it.  Thread the three 
1-foot extensions together, draw the sliding piece in the Click Rule main 
piece out 4 inches and thread the 3 piece assembly into the main piece for 
your 40 inches.

Holland's Person, Bill
E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
- "A book is a mirror. If an ass peers into it, you can't expect an apostle 
to look out."
- Written two centuries ago by a German wit named Lichtenberg. 





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[BlindHandyMan] Car door question

[Tom Vos]

We have a Ford Focus.
The inside handle workds fine for opening the door.
But the outside handle is loose.
It will open the door if it has been setting unlocked, but if we use the
remote to unlock the door, operating the handle will not open it.
I can take the inside panel off, but can someone tell me if this is likely
to be just a loose something or other in there?
Or is it more likely something is broken?
Blessings,
Tom


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Car door question

[Ron Yearns]

I am reading this that the actual exterior handle has play in it or is loose.  
This would certainly cause problems in the internal linkage not being right.  
Take the panel off and tighten up the nuts  that hold the handle on then see 
what is going on.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Vos 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 5:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Car door question



  We have a Ford Focus.
  The inside handle workds fine for opening the door.
  But the outside handle is loose.
  It will open the door if it has been setting unlocked, but if we use the
  remote to unlock the door, operating the handle will not open it.
  I can take the inside panel off, but can someone tell me if this is likely
  to be just a loose something or other in there?
  Or is it more likely something is broken?
  Blessings,
  Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids

[jim]

i had that ruler but mine was metal.
i hated it because you never could besure you put the dot at the end in the 
same place every time but hey its a nice large print rule so i keep it around 
for the sighties and just took that usless part off grin.
jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Car door question

[Bob Kennedy]

With the type of metal they use today, it's hard to say what the problem is.  

You said the door doesn't open if you use the remote.  Can you work the door 
otherwise?  Do you have electric door locks inside?  does the door unlock with 
the button?  Checking that will mean someone has to stand outside so you can 
check using the outside handle of course.  

It's possible the actuator isn't moving the lever enough.  

Now if the handle is loose, as in you can move it by hand and it actually moves 
around a good bit, you will have to take off the panel and see what has 
happened.  You'll have to take it off even if it's the actuator, just trying to 
narrow it down some.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Vos 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 6:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Car door question



  We have a Ford Focus.
  The inside handle workds fine for opening the door.
  But the outside handle is loose.
  It will open the door if it has been setting unlocked, but if we use the
  remote to unlock the door, operating the handle will not open it.
  I can take the inside panel off, but can someone tell me if this is likely
  to be just a loose something or other in there?
  Or is it more likely something is broken?
  Blessings,
  Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now OPEN

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

If you would like to chat the blind handy man room on Vip Conduit is now
open.

So come on over I would like to say good day.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] click rule instructions

[Lenny McHugh]

Someone mentioned that there are recorded instructions for the click rule. 
When I received mine only the four pieces. Did they stop shipping 
instructions with the unit?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Kevin Doucet]

Does a light socket have less juice going to it than an electrical outlet?

At 08:36 PM 1/21/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Dear Jennifer:
>I would think that your light socket would have 
>enough capacity to run your computer and related 
>equipment, but I would prefer to install a 
>standard outlet in the closet, and if you need 
>the light, I am sure that it would be a fairly 
>simple matter to install both a light socket and 
>an outlet. If this socket is switched by a wall 
>switch, it would be all the more handy.
>
>Yours Truly,
>
>Clifford Wilson
>
>- Original Message -
>From: Jennifer Jackson
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question
>
>Hello Everyone,
>
>I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home 
>since the flood last week. It has certainly 
>encouraged me in my desire to downsize and 
>declutter. One of the things I have done is to 
>get rid of the giant desk that used to 
>monopolize my dining room and I am planning to 
>set up my computer and all it's accessories 
>inside the closet that is under my stairs. 
>Everything is going to fit nicely, but I am not 
>certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.
>
>I could, of course, just run a power strip with 
>a long cord around the corner to the nearest 
>outlet outside the closet. This however creates 
>an unsightly hazard that collects dust and 
>stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and 
>I have considered getting one of those outlet 
>adapters to screw into that, but I am concerned 
>that it might not be meant to have that much of 
>an electrical draw on it. My third idea is to 
>use the bit on the drill that is used for 
>installing deadbolts and making a small round 
>whole in the wall that is shared with my living 
>room and just plugging it into the outlet there. 
>Lastly, I could have an electrician or some 
>other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.
>
>I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of 
>expense and effort on this. So given that, what are your thoughts please?
>
>Jennifer
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>__ Information from ESET NOD32 
>Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4795 (20100121) __
>
>The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>http://www.eset.com
>
>__ Information from ESET NOD32 
>Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4795 (20100121) __
>
>The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>http://www.eset.com
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Kevin Doucet]

I remember a verry long time ago, a friend ran a 
refridgerator from a light socket. Was that a bad moove? I don't know.

The fridge was at the end of a hall way with no 
electrical outlet. It worked. I da'know'


At 06:36 AM 1/22/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>I agree with Scott, Ron, Dale, and Bob. I don't like the idea of using
>the light socket as an outlet for many reasons, grounding being a big one,
>accidentally ripping the fixture out of the ceiling being another. Maybe
>someone with more knowledge than I can weigh in with some real
>information, but I didn't think that a light socket was designed to pull a
>lot of current through it. A computer, speakers, and monitor shouldn't be
>drawing 15 amps or anything, but still.
>
>If the outlet in the living room is on the outside of the closet wall, it
>would be easy enough to put an outlet in the closet, or turn the existing
>one around.
>
>I realize you may not want to do that work yourself, and electricians
>don't come cheap. So, I'm not sure what the best solution is for you.
>
>Sorry, just wanted to reinforce what others have said so far.
>
>--
>Blue skies.
>Dan Rossi
>Carnegie Mellon University.
>E-Mail:d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>Tel:(412) 268-9081
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now OPEN

[Kevin Doucet]

Hi,

I might drop in some times but I would only be 
able to listen. I don't have a mic.

So if you see me and I will not speak, know I am not being rude or shy!
At 07:27 PM 1/22/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi All
>
>If you would like to chat the blind handy man room on Vip Conduit is now
>open.
>
>So come on over I would like to say good day.
>
>Ray
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now OPEN

[David Ferrin]

Sorry but it is our policy that everybody who subscribes to the site must 
have a microphone.
David Ferrin
www.jaws-users.com
Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
- Original Message - 
From: "Kevin Doucet" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now OPEN


Hi,

I might drop in some times but I would only be
able to listen. I don't have a mic.

So if you see me and I will not speak, know I am not being rude or shy!
At 07:27 PM 1/22/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi All
>
>If you would like to chat the blind handy man room on Vip Conduit is now
>open.
>
>So come on over I would like to say good day.
>
>Ray
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

[Dale Leavens]

Well so much depends on the age of the wiring and the codes in effect at the 
time it was installed always assuming that codes were honoured and then there 
is the possibility that modifications have been made since the original 
installation.

Most probably 16 or 14 gauge wire would be used and the light would be just one 
branch from other circuits run in the area. 16 gauge wire will carry 15 amps at 
110 VAC though these days considered on the margin but that is about all most 
household circuits would be expected to carry. Sometimes a circuit carries only 
lighting and because each lamp is expected to be within certain ranges and it 
is not likely that all will be on at the same time except in a house full of 
teenagers, there may be a lot of lights on that dedicated circuit so, the added 
load of something bigger, no one expects a fridge over the bathroom sink, 
exceeds the safe wiring capacity. Certainly one could run a refrigerator but 
there are other considerations.

I am assuming that Jennifer is referring to one of those threaded inserts you 
screw into a light socket which has a female receptacle, many have two as well 
as another threaded socket for a bulb. This socket may even have a chain pull 
switch for the light. Although the electrical box will be grounded in a modern 
wiring installation there are only two contacts in the threaded bulb socket, 
the live and the so called neutral. There is no connection to ground. Thus, 
when a plug is included that plug only has a hot and neutral side. Not only 
that but there is no certainty as to which side is hot and which neutral. 
Finally, the light socket is made to usually use about a hundred and fifty 
watts maximum. They should handle heat fairly well given the heat a large bulb 
can be expected to generate but the contacts, that is the threaded sleeve and 
the bottom terminal point may well not stand up to large current draws 
particularly for extended periods of time. These days accumulated computer 
equipment would not likely draw as much as 500 Watts but it is something to be 
considered. The mechanical strain of hanging cables will impact on that 
electromechanical connection as well. Altogether, the arrangement combines 
pretty well everything unsavory about wiring octopi.

So, the answer is a definite maybe. The wiring is probably adequate but the 
electromechanical coupling is suspect. Ungrounded computer equipment except of 
course notebook computers is very vulnerable but my concern would be more the 
fire risk.

If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie

  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Doucet 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 11:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question



  I remember a verry long time ago, a friend ran a 
  refridgerator from a light socket. Was that a bad moove? I don't know.

  The fridge was at the end of a hall way with no 
  electrical outlet. It worked. I da'know'

  At 06:36 AM 1/22/2010, you wrote:
  >
  >
  >I agree with Scott, Ron, Dale, and Bob. I don't like the idea of using
  >the light socket as an outlet for many reasons, grounding being a big one,
  >accidentally ripping the fixture out of the ceiling being another. Maybe
  >someone with more knowledge than I can weigh in with some real
  >information, but I didn't think that a light socket was designed to pull a
  >lot of current through it. A computer, speakers, and monitor shouldn't be
  >drawing 15 amps or anything, but still.
  >
  >If the outlet in the living room is on the outside of the closet wall, it
  >would be easy enough to put an outlet in the closet, or turn the existing
  >one around.
  >
  >I realize you may not want to do that work yourself, and electricians
  >don't come cheap. So, I'm not sure what the best solution is for you.
  >
  >Sorry, just wanted to reinforce what others have said so far.
  >
  >--
  >Blue skies.
  >Dan Rossi
  >Carnegie Mellon University.
  >E-Mail:d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  >Tel:(412) 268-9081
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]