Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
The latex or rubber ones used by many to hand wash dishes can be used.  If you 
still feel some fear put on a pair of leather ones over the rubber.  You can 
also use a pair of well insulated pliers to grab onto the connectors and pull 
the wires out that way.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 9:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  thanks Ron, I was picturing an extra junction box up in the crawl
  space but of course the light ceiling box is right there in the
  hall so that's likely the point where everything might be
  accessible.

  I did check all the breakers of course and all the fuses. I
  don't think it's likely on the neighbor's circuit as not at all
  close to the common wall which is thankfully between the garages.

  looking for a good set of rubber gloves first of course.

  Tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
Well how safe do you want to be?  The snug super thin Doctor exam glove would 
have enough insulation value, but how well do they protect from puncture of 
ends of wires or sharp corners.  Hence the suggestion for leather outer 
protectors as they are technically called.  They make a fairly substansal latex 
glove used for hand dishwashing or other messy duties that with leather gloves 
over will protect quite well.  The feeling feedback kind of sucks, but one 
can't have everything.  As for working inside the panel box, remember we are 
protecting against the voltage or voltage pressure that might go through your 
insulated gloves.  The voltage to ground is the same there as in the outlet 
box, 120 .  If you touch both bus bars with opposite hands then you have a 
possibility of 240 volts across the heart.  Therefore some people try to work 
with one hand in their pocket.  I could never do this, but it is a suggestion.  
I don't see any reason you shouldn't be able to replace the two pole 240 
breaker with two 20 amp breakers.  Make sure you are connecting number 12 wire 
to them for the new circuit.  In some brands they make a tandem breaker which 
fits into a single space and has two ciruits of 120 volts.  Both are on the 
same leg so there is not 240 between but it is a easy way to add additional 
circuit spaces without a new box if yours is out of space.  So you might be 
able to remove the two pole 240 volt breaker and end up with four circuits.  
Westinghouse, GE and Square D are the brands that come to mind that have made 
them.  You may have to go to a electrical supplier to get them.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 6:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  This brings up a question on my part. 120 volts itself is painful, 
  but less likely to kill you than lets say poking about inside a 200 
  amp breaker box. So how thick does a set of rubber gloves need to be 
  for handling just a simple 120 15 amp circuit and how thick would 
  gloves need to be to poke about in a 200 amp breaker box. I'm talking 
  about putting your gloved hand on the bussbar. grin Seriously thoughI 
  am curious. I've a project coming up that I'd like to perform, but 
  I'm needing to possibly work with a situation where handling a 120 
  volt line is necessary since I have no clue where the hell the 
  breaker is for this circuit. Once I get these projects done, I'm 
  making a sheet up in braille and print that clearly indicates what 
  breaker controls which circuit and where. I also have a 240 volt 
  breaker in my box that I'd like to remove and convert into two 120 15 
  amp circuits or possible 20 amp circuits if the box will handle it. I 
  will probably get a friend who is a master electrician to do this,b 
  ut I am curious what I can do on my own and with as muc safety in 
  mind as possible. Obviously any dead circuit is a good circuit.

  tnx

  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread Scott Howell
Thanks Ron, I wasn't overly sure where the dialectric or the  
breakdown point at which the insulating value would be over run by  
the current. I would certianly do my level best to never touch the  
busbar with both hands, but more a possible rub against it or  
something. I'd like just call the electric company and ask they pull  
the meter head for a couple of hours or just kill all the power in  
the box from the main switch and stay away from the upper half. I  
forget how the box is laid out, but I believe there's a portion where  
its hot even when the main switch is opened , but the box is  
effectively dead. Like I said, I'd probably get someone who is  
licensed to at least supervise to be sure I don't do something  
against code. The prior owners were super stupid people. They had  
several 20-amp breakers on circuits rated for 15 amps which created  
one hell of a potential problem and to think they had children living  
in the house. So, they were made to replace those before we would  
settle on the house. Amazing what people will do and risks they'll  
take. And to think if there had been a fire, an insurance company  
would never had paid that claim.


Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
Yes replacing a 15 amp breaker with a 20 has been done a lot just to prevent so 
called nuisence tripping, but it still anin't right.  Still not as bad as 
putting the 30 amp time delay plug fuses on a no. 14 wire as I have witnessed 
in many older homes.  In my personal no. 14 wire should only be used for signal 
and control circuits.  Perhaps smoke, fire detection in residences.  Any light 
or power circuits need to no. 12 on a 20 amp circiit otherwise you are wasting 
panel space and wire.  Again just a personal bias.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 8:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  Thanks Ron, I wasn't overly sure where the dialectric or the 
  breakdown point at which the insulating value would be over run by 
  the current. I would certianly do my level best to never touch the 
  busbar with both hands, but more a possible rub against it or 
  something. I'd like just call the electric company and ask they pull 
  the meter head for a couple of hours or just kill all the power in 
  the box from the main switch and stay away from the upper half. I 
  forget how the box is laid out, but I believe there's a portion where 
  its hot even when the main switch is opened , but the box is 
  effectively dead. Like I said, I'd probably get someone who is 
  licensed to at least supervise to be sure I don't do something 
  against code. The prior owners were super stupid people. They had 
  several 20-amp breakers on circuits rated for 15 amps which created 
  one hell of a potential problem and to think they had children living 
  in the house. So, they were made to replace those before we would 
  settle on the house. Amazing what people will do and risks they'll 
  take. And to think if there had been a fire, an insurance company 
  would never had paid that claim.

  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question: Hi elect

2007-01-07 Thread Tom Fowle
Hi Dale,
thanks that's about what I thought and it's nice to have
confirmation. I am sure we don't have aluminum wire, if we did
I'd be in there right now to be sure nothing has gone high
resistance.

I always hate to turn off all the power if i don't have too, so
much junk needs resetting GRIN

Maybe I'll wait till the power fails due to a storm and then turn
off the breakers and see what i can find.

Thanks
tom


Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-07 Thread Tom Fowle
thanks Ron, I was picturing an extra junction box up in the crawl
space but of course the light ceiling box is right there in the
hall so that's likely the point where everything might be
accessible.

I did check all the breakers of course and all the fuses.  I
don't think it's likely on the neighbor's circuit as not at all
close to the common wall which is thankfully between the garages.

looking for a good set of rubber gloves first of course.

Tom


Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


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[BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-05 Thread Tom Fowle
In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
fuse blew.

Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
heaters at same time.  There is no where else to plug in the
portable heater.

My questions are:
1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
that has failed?  If I can do without that socket and light, can
I just forget them?

2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong?  I
don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on.  I
believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
about following wires even were I so inclined.

Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
appreciated.  I do not want to call an electrician unless real
danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
light.

thanks

tom


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-05 Thread NLG
I would suspect that there is a blown fuse or tripped breaker.  You said 
duplex.  Is there separate electrical services for each of the two residences?  
If so, you should check all the fuses or breakers for both residents.  You may 
find a blown fuse or tripped breaker for your neighbor that is for the 
receptacle and light in the hall.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 20:38
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
  light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
  heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
  unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
  fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
  fuse blew.

  Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
  heaters at same time. There is no where else to plug in the
  portable heater.

  My questions are:
  1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
  that has failed? If I can do without that socket and light, can
  I just forget them?

  2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong? I
  don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on. I
  believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
  of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
  about following wires even were I so inclined.

  Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
  appreciated. I do not want to call an electrician unless real
  danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
  light.

  thanks

  tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-05 Thread R S Enterprises
This is a very idea to check first.  I would usually remove the main cover and 
check power on the breaker or fuse.  Amazing how many breakers will be tripped 
and not appear to be.  
As for doing without it I don't see any hazard.  If the light is flickering off 
and on then you have sparking which is not good.
If you wish to fix this I would open up the switch box first, then the outlet 
box and finally the ceiling box.  At one of these places I would guess a wire 
connection has corrorded or overheated.  You did say a electric heater had been 
on this.  These can be heavy current pullers and if it was a marginal 
connection to begin with it may have overheated and broken down..  But I am 
betting that puulling wires out of the boxes will show something coming apart 
in your hand.  If you turn the light to the on position and plug a light into 
the outlet and have someone watching one or both may flash as soon as you get 
into a box which helps locate the problem.  A good pair of leather or rubber 
gloves would be advised if you have real poor vision.  Once it stays on a 
little then you can find the correct breaker to shut off.  Killing the main 
should shut it off but not if it is wired from the other residence.  Good luck.
Yes it might even be in a outlet just before these two.  Banging on the wall 
around these others may show something if the first three don't show something. 
 If not then you would have to open up everything close to the area.  
Most people will wire so all junctions are accessable from the living quarter 
but it isn't impossible.  The junctions just have to be assesible, not easy 
access.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: NLG 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  I would suspect that there is a blown fuse or tripped breaker. You said 
duplex. Is there separate electrical services for each of the two residences? 
If so, you should check all the fuses or breakers for both residents. You may 
find a blown fuse or tripped breaker for your neighbor that is for the 
receptacle and light in the hall.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 20:38
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

  In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
  light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
  heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
  unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
  fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
  fuse blew.

  Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
  heaters at same time. There is no where else to plug in the
  portable heater.

  My questions are:
  1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
  that has failed? If I can do without that socket and light, can
  I just forget them?

  2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong? I
  don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on. I
  believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
  of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
  about following wires even were I so inclined.

  Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
  appreciated. I do not want to call an electrician unless real
  danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
  light.

  thanks

  tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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