Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

[tigergutt]

I normally use arount ten hours as well.

ciao
André

> I build my own rears simply for the sake that I don't trust anyone else to do
> it.  It really is not that hard, but very time consuming.  Changing a carrier
> is easy, when you get into changing gears, well that's another story.  If any
> and I mean any of the readings are off, you will get noisy gears and possible
> bearing or gear failure.  If you just want to simply pull the axles out and
> replace the seals and axle bearings, that's no biggie.  If the oil looks good,
> IE not black or filled with metal filings, I would just put some fresh 90W in
> there and button it back up.  Don't go to replace the pinion seal unless you
> have a torque wrench that measures in inch/pounds.  The preload needs to be
> correct or pinion bearing failure will occur.  The general reading is around
> .020"-.025".
> I recently redid the 12 bolt in my 70 and it took me a full 10 hours to do it
> start to finish and that did not include the R & R from the car.
>
> Tom
>

RE: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Phil Adams]

Tom,
 
What size primary, 
coated? price?
 
Thanks
Phil


From: [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 
Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:37 AMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle 
BB Misc
Have a set of B.B. haeders from a 67SS.Let me know if interested 

RE: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Phil Adams]

How much, what size, condition and type - shorties, ceramic coated etc?

Phil

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:33 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc


> What size primary pipes?
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: 2004/10/27 Wed PM 03:36:40 GMT
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc
> 
> Have a set of B.B. haeders from a 67SS.Let me know if interested
> 
> 

RE: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Phil Adams]

Tom,
 
What kind and condition 
are they in -  Standard, Shorties 
Ceramic coated and how much?
 
Phil 


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:37 AMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle 
BB Misc
Have a set of B.B. haeders from a 67SS.Let me know if interested 

Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

[Mike Holleman]

Dave, You are right that we should not discourage folks from doing all that 
they can themselves. Working on our cars is a least half the fun of owning them. 
But some jobs can prove more costly than paying labor when they go bad. Rearend 
setup is not brain surgery. But it does require a great deal of skill and 
knowledge to do it right.
Mike 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dave Studly 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 4:03 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] How to 
  rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
  
  Mike, I understand your point, and agree 
  to an extent.  I'll admit I farmed out my own rearend years ago, as 
  I didn't have the tools (coming up with money for gears, posi, etc was hard 
  enough!).  
   
  I guess my original point is that I was 
  surprised that the early response was "dont try it!  leave it to a 
  pro!"  There's quite a number of DIY-ers on the list (like myself) who 
  like to see what it would take to do it yourself, even if the decision is 
  ultimately made to take it to a pro.
   
  Upon doing 5-10 minutes of googling, I was 
  surprised at my relative lack of results in finding good, detailed 
  instructions on setting up a 12-bolt.  I found an article 
  in a recent Car Craft, but it was for a Ford 8.8.  I'll dig through my 
  Chevy High Performance issues again because I distinctly remember reading a 
  reader's letter to the effect of "thanks for the article on how to setup a 12 
  (10?)-bolt, we did it and it came out great!"  Here's a link I found 
  online for 10-bolts:  http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0207_bolt/
   
  I have a spare 12 bolt in my 
  basement.  Maybe I should put my money where my mouth is and try to set 
  it up.. :-)
   
  -Dave
   
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Mike 
HollemanSent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:22 AMTo: 
The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] How to 
rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
Dave, I do complete restorations, build engines and trans, but I take 
my rear end work to a specialist. It's not that I couldn't get set up to do 
it, but it takes special tools and a lot of experience to get one 
right.I do the disassembly, sand blast and paint the housing and carry it 
all to my guys shop. He gives me back an assembled rear end, ready to 
mount. It usually costs 3 to 4 hours labor. And they always work right with 
no extra noise. To me it's well worth the cost not to have to worry about 
this one area of a resto job.
Mike Holleman 

  - Original Message -
  From: 
  Dave 
  Studly 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 11:16 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] How to 
  rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
  
  Come on guys, we can do better than 
  this, can't we?  :-)  While I've never built a rear either, I 
  and others on the list have built engines and transmissions, taken 
  the bodies off their frames, etc... and I can't imagine a 
  rear is THAT hard.
   
  At minimum, you'll need a mountable 
  dial indicator for measuring backlash and I think you're gonna need a 
  torque wrench that does inch/lbs instead of foot/lbs.  I thought 
  there was a decent article on this very subject in either Car Craft or 
  Chevy High Performance within the past few months.  I'll try to find 
  it.  In the mean time, check these out to get your feet 
  wet.
   
  http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/2949/
   
  http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
   
  -Dave
   
   
   
   
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 8:58 
PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
I would not recommend you take it apart if you have not done it 
before.  As stated previously, you can do more harm than 
good.
 
Tom

Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

[MICRLASER]

I build my own rears simply for the sake that I don't trust anyone else to do it.  It really is not that hard, but very time consuming.  Changing a carrier is easy, when you get into changing gears, well that's another story.  If any and I mean any of the readings are off, you will get noisy gears and possible bearing or gear failure.  If you just want to simply pull the axles out and replace the seals and axle bearings, that's no biggie.  If the oil looks good, IE not black or filled with metal filings, I would just put some fresh 90W in there and button it back up.  Don't go to replace the pinion seal unless you have a torque wrench that measures in inch/pounds.  The preload needs to be correct or pinion bearing failure will occur.  The general reading is around .020"-.025".
I recently redid the 12 bolt in my 70 and it took me a full 10 hours to do it start to finish and that did not include the R & R from the car.
 
Tom

RE: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

[Dave Studly]

Mike, I understand your point, and agree to 
an extent.  I'll admit I farmed out my own rearend years ago, as I 
didn't have the tools (coming up with money for gears, posi, etc was hard 
enough!).  
 
I guess my original point is that I was 
surprised that the early response was "dont try it!  leave it to a 
pro!"  There's quite a number of DIY-ers on the list (like myself) who like 
to see what it would take to do it yourself, even if the decision is ultimately 
made to take it to a pro.
 
Upon doing 5-10 minutes of googling, I was 
surprised at my relative lack of results in finding good, detailed instructions 
on setting up a 12-bolt.  I found an article in a recent Car 
Craft, but it was for a Ford 8.8.  I'll dig through my Chevy High 
Performance issues again because I distinctly remember reading a reader's letter 
to the effect of "thanks for the article on how to setup a 12 (10?)-bolt, we did 
it and it came out great!"  Here's a link I found online for 
10-bolts:  http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0207_bolt/
 
I have a spare 12 bolt in my basement.  
Maybe I should put my money where my mouth is and try to set it up.. 
:-)
 
-Dave
 

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Mike 
  HollemanSent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:22 AMTo: The 
  Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 
  12-bolt rear?
  Dave, I do complete restorations, build engines and trans, but I take my 
  rear end work to a specialist. It's not that I couldn't get set up to do 
  it, but it takes special tools and a lot of experience to get one right.I 
  do the disassembly, sand blast and paint the housing and carry it all to my 
  guys shop. He gives me back an assembled rear end, ready to mount. It 
  usually costs 3 to 4 hours labor. And they always work right with no extra 
  noise. To me it's well worth the cost not to have to worry about this one area 
  of a resto job.
  Mike Holleman 
  
- Original Message -
From: 
Dave 
Studly 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 11:16 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] How to 
rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

Come on guys, we can do better than 
this, can't we?  :-)  While I've never built a rear either, I and 
others on the list have built engines and transmissions, taken 
the bodies off their frames, etc... and I can't imagine a 
rear is THAT hard.
 
At minimum, you'll need a mountable dial 
indicator for measuring backlash and I think you're gonna need a torque 
wrench that does inch/lbs instead of foot/lbs.  I thought there was a 
decent article on this very subject in either Car Craft or Chevy High 
Performance within the past few months.  I'll try to find it.  In 
the mean time, check these out to get your feet wet.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/2949/
 
http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
 
-Dave
 
 
 
 

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 8:58 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
  I would not recommend you take it apart if you have not done it 
  before.  As stated previously, you can do more harm than good.
   
  Tom

Re: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[toms64]

looking for 2 1/4" for 540 drag 67 El Camino
> 
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: 2004/10/27 Wed PM 05:13:44 GMT
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc
> 
> 1 7/8 primary w/ 3" collectors 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Clint Hooper]

http://www.stainlessworks.net/  
for Stainless Works headers
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/index.htm  
for Sanderson headers
Clint HooperH&H Custom,ownerA.C.E.S. #16501969 El Camino 
Protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Phil 
  Adams 
  
  Clint,
   
  I'm in the So Cal area. Stainless or ceramic coated 
  headers are fine with me. As for the Ron Davis Radiator set up, does he 
  have a website, catalog or contact phone numbers for Sanders & Ron 
  Davis?  
   
  Thanks
  Phil Adams
  
  
  From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  
  2 1/4" headers are way too big for a 427". My 
  choice would be some 1 7/8" Sanderson intermediates,if you want something that 
  will give maximum ground clearance. Don't understand why you don't want 
  stainless headers,as it seems like funds aren't a problem. Stainless Works can 
  build you a pair of 1 3/4",1 7/8",or 2" tubes that will tuck up tightly for 
  around $600. Heck,a pair of Sandersons will cost over $500.
  As for a radiator choice,my first pick would a 
  Ron Davis set-up with dual electric fans.
  Are you anywhere near Houston,Tx?
  Clint HooperH&H Custom,ownerA.C.E.S. #16501969 El Camino 
  Protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Phil 
Adams 

Hey guys,
 
I have a 67 
Chevelle with a 427 and want to change a couple of things. The current 
headers are 2 1/4" tube and I want to change to a a "Shorty"?, 
something that is closer to the block, stays off of the steering and drop 
down out of the engine compartment.
 
Also, there are 
a number of other items I am changing and would like input on the who has 
the best value / quality for the following items below, I also entered the 
best value / price I have be able to find, if it sounds acceptable your 
input is appreciated:

  Billet pulley 
  systems - SW Specialties $575.00 polished 
  2" Steel cowl 
  hood - OPG $489.00 or True Classics $465.00 
  Aluminum 
  radiator with trans cooler combination - The Fan Man $849.00 Polished with 
  stock hrdwr, & duel fans. Thermal fan switch $75.00 
  Stainless Steel 
  exhaust system, pipes not headers 
  Shorty 
  headers 
  Chrome Pwr 
  String pump, Chrome Master & Booster set up.
Thanks
Phil 
Adams

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Tomzieher]

1 7/8 primary w/ 3" collectors 

Re: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[toms64]

> What size primary pipes?
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: 2004/10/27 Wed PM 03:36:40 GMT
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc
> 
> Have a set of B.B. haeders from a 67SS.Let me know if interested
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] FW: picnic pictures!

[Ed Riggins]

Next year.  Fleetweek.  Sunday.  If you want to get on the mailing list you
can send me your address or give me a call.  671-2413 Ed


> From: Dennis Kiernan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, The Chevelle Mailing List
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 16:54:23 -0700
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] FW: picnic pictures!
> 
> Thanks for the great pix. I wanted to be there that day, but had to
> work. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Dennis Kiernan
> San Francisco
> 
> 

[Chevelle-list] Google Email

[Rick Schaefer]

 If anyone is interested in recieving an invite for a free google
email account let me know @([EMAIL PROTECTED])  .  I've beeen using
it for a month or two and am not innundated with popups or spam.   
I've read about the supposed downsides but haven't noticed a problem.

 The only thing I use this account for is this list.  They do show
unobtrusive ads on the side bar of each message.  But its nothing that
can't be ignored. And the ads are related to the message subject. 
For instance the message on rearend rebuild (thanx dave, andre for
helpful replys)  had a couple of ads for axles & rearend rebuilding
services.

And if no one is interested I won't be offended.

-- 
Rick Schaefer

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Tomzieher]

Have a set of B.B. haeders from a 67SS.Let me know if interested

Re: RE: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[toms64]

I need old set of headers for big block.  Tom B.
> 
> From: "Phil  Adams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2004/10/27 Wed PM 02:08:48 GMT
> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc
> 
> Clint,
>  
> I'm in the So Cal area. Stainless or ceramic coated headers are fine with
> me. As for the Ron Davis Radiator set up, does he have a website, catalog or
> contact phone numbers for Sanders & Ron Davis?  
>  
> Thanks
> Phil Adams
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 10:56 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc
> 
> 
> 2 1/4" headers are way too big for a 427". My choice would be some 1 7/8"
> Sanderson intermediates,if you want something that will give maximum ground
> clearance. Don't understand why you don't want stainless headers,as it seems
> like funds aren't a problem. Stainless Works can build you a pair of 1
> 3/4",1 7/8",or 2" tubes that will tuck up tightly for around $600. Heck,a
> pair of Sandersons will cost over $500.
> As for a radiator choice,my first pick would a Ron Davis set-up with dual
> electric fans.
> Are you anywhere near Houston,Tx?
> Clint Hooper
> H&H Custom,owner
> A.C.E.S. #1650
> 1969 El Camino Protourer
> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: Phil   Adams 
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
>  
> I have a 67 Chevelle with a 427 and want to change a couple of things. The
> current headers are 2 1/4" tube and I want to change to a a "Shorty"?,
> something that is closer to the block, stays off of the steering and drop
> down out of the engine compartment.
>  
> Also, there are a number of other items I am changing and would like input
> on the who has the best value / quality for the following items below, I
> also entered the best value / price I have be able to find, if it sounds
> acceptable your input is appreciated:
> 
> * Billet pulley systems - SW Specialties $575.00 polished 
> 
> * 2" Steel cowl hood - OPG $489.00 or True Classics $465.00 
> 
> * Aluminum radiator with trans cooler combination - The Fan Man
> $849.00 Polished with stock hrdwr, & duel fans. Thermal fan switch $75.00 
> 
> * Stainless Steel exhaust system, pipes not headers 
> 
> * Shorty headers 
> 
> * Chrome Pwr String pump, Chrome Master & Booster set up.
> 
> Thanks
> Phil Adams
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Mike Holleman]

Phil, Go to www.rondavisracing.com.  They 
built a unit for my 64 Tempest that is first rate. 
Mike Holleman 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Phil 
  Adams 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 10:08 
  AM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle 
  BB Misc
  
  Clint,
   
  I'm in the So Cal area. Stainless or ceramic coated 
  headers are fine with me. As for the Ron Davis Radiator set up, does he 
  have a website, catalog or contact phone numbers for Sanders & Ron 
  Davis?  
   
  Thanks
  Phil Adams
  
  
  From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 10:56 AMTo: The Chevelle 
  Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB 
  Misc
  
  2 1/4" headers are way too big for a 427". My 
  choice would be some 1 7/8" Sanderson intermediates,if you want something that 
  will give maximum ground clearance. Don't understand why you don't want 
  stainless headers,as it seems like funds aren't a problem. Stainless Works can 
  build you a pair of 1 3/4",1 7/8",or 2" tubes that will tuck up tightly for 
  around $600. Heck,a pair of Sandersons will cost over $500.
  As for a radiator choice,my first pick would a 
  Ron Davis set-up with dual electric fans.
  Are you anywhere near Houston,Tx?
  Clint HooperH&H Custom,ownerA.C.E.S. #16501969 El Camino 
  Protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Phil 
Adams 

Hey guys,
 
I have a 67 
Chevelle with a 427 and want to change a couple of things. The current 
headers are 2 1/4" tube and I want to change to a a "Shorty"?, 
something that is closer to the block, stays off of the steering and drop 
down out of the engine compartment.
 
Also, there are 
a number of other items I am changing and would like input on the who has 
the best value / quality for the following items below, I also entered the 
best value / price I have be able to find, if it sounds acceptable your 
input is appreciated:

  Billet pulley 
  systems - SW Specialties $575.00 polished 
  2" Steel cowl 
  hood - OPG $489.00 or True Classics $465.00 
  Aluminum 
  radiator with trans cooler combination - The Fan Man $849.00 Polished with 
  stock hrdwr, & duel fans. Thermal fan switch $75.00 
  Stainless Steel 
  exhaust system, pipes not headers 
  Shorty 
  headers 
  Chrome Pwr 
  String pump, Chrome Master & Booster set up.
Thanks
Phil 
Adams

RE: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB Misc

[Phil Adams]

Clint,
 
I'm in the So Cal area. Stainless or ceramic coated headers 
are fine with me. As for the Ron Davis Radiator set up, does he have a 
website, catalog or contact phone numbers for Sanders & Ron Davis?  

 
Thanks
Phil Adams


From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 10:56 AMTo: The Chevelle 
Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle BB 
Misc

2 1/4" headers are way too big for a 427". My 
choice would be some 1 7/8" Sanderson intermediates,if you want something that 
will give maximum ground clearance. Don't understand why you don't want 
stainless headers,as it seems like funds aren't a problem. Stainless Works can 
build you a pair of 1 3/4",1 7/8",or 2" tubes that will tuck up tightly for 
around $600. Heck,a pair of Sandersons will cost over $500.
As for a radiator choice,my first pick would a Ron 
Davis set-up with dual electric fans.
Are you anywhere near Houston,Tx?
Clint HooperH&H Custom,ownerA.C.E.S. #16501969 El Camino 
Protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Phil 
  Adams 
  
  Hey guys,
   
  I have a 67 
  Chevelle with a 427 and want to change a couple of things. The current headers 
  are 2 1/4" tube and I want to change to a a "Shorty"?, something that is 
  closer to the block, stays off of the steering and drop down out of the engine 
  compartment.
   
  Also, there are a 
  number of other items I am changing and would like input on the who has the 
  best value / quality for the following items below, I also entered the best 
  value / price I have be able to find, if it sounds acceptable your input 
  is appreciated:
  
Billet pulley 
systems - SW Specialties $575.00 polished 
2" Steel cowl 
hood - OPG $489.00 or True Classics $465.00 
Aluminum radiator 
with trans cooler combination - The Fan Man $849.00 Polished with stock 
hrdwr, & duel fans. Thermal fan switch $75.00 
Stainless Steel 
exhaust system, pipes not headers 
Shorty 
headers 
Chrome Pwr String 
pump, Chrome Master & Booster set up.
  Thanks
  Phil 
  Adams
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

[Jim Dos]

Dave,
this web page is run by a knowledgeable nova 
guy...
 
http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyrearends.html
and this is his rear end info page..
 
my buddy did his own ford 9 in from scratch, but he's 
anal about doing it right. the hardest thing was buying an inch pound torque 
wrench..not very common..and the cheapest was a beam type.. 15-18 in lb is not a 
lot of resistance, just follow teh guides , have the right tools.. and maybe 
someone help you who has done it before...
 
my other buds took their's to a dirt track racer , paid 
him 50 bux, and walked away with it all set up..sometimes that's 
easier.
 
good luck
 
Jim

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mike 
  Holleman 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:21 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] How to 
  rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
  
  Dave, I do complete restorations, build engines and trans, but I take my 
  rear end work to a specialist. It's not that I couldn't get set up to do 
  it, but it takes special tools and a lot of experience to get one right.I 
  do the disassembly, sand blast and paint the housing and carry it all to my 
  guys shop. He gives me back an assembled rear end, ready to mount. It 
  usually costs 3 to 4 hours labor. And they always work right with no extra 
  noise. To me it's well worth the cost not to have to worry about this one area 
  of a resto job.
  Mike Holleman 
  
- Original Message -
From: 
Dave 
Studly 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 11:16 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] How to 
rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

Come on guys, we can do better than 
this, can't we?  :-)  While I've never built a rear either, I and 
others on the list have built engines and transmissions, taken 
the bodies off their frames, etc... and I can't imagine a 
rear is THAT hard.
 
At minimum, you'll need a mountable dial 
indicator for measuring backlash and I think you're gonna need a torque 
wrench that does inch/lbs instead of foot/lbs.  I thought there was a 
decent article on this very subject in either Car Craft or Chevy High 
Performance within the past few months.  I'll try to find it.  In 
the mean time, check these out to get your feet wet.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/2949/
 
http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
 
-Dave
 
 
 
 

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 8:58 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
  I would not recommend you take it apart if you have not done it 
  before.  As stated previously, you can do more harm than good.
   
  Tom

Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?

[Mike Holleman]

Dave, I do complete restorations, build engines and trans, but I take my 
rear end work to a specialist. It's not that I couldn't get set up to do 
it, but it takes special tools and a lot of experience to get one right.I 
do the disassembly, sand blast and paint the housing and carry it all to my guys 
shop. He gives me back an assembled rear end, ready to mount. It usually 
costs 3 to 4 hours labor. And they always work right with no extra noise. To me 
it's well worth the cost not to have to worry about this one area of a resto 
job.
Mike Holleman 

  - Original Message -
  From: 
  Dave Studly 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 11:16 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] How to 
  rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
  
  Come on guys, we can do better than this, 
  can't we?  :-)  While I've never built a rear either, I and others 
  on the list have built engines and transmissions, taken the bodies off 
  their frames, etc... and I can't imagine a rear is THAT 
  hard.
   
  At minimum, you'll need a mountable dial 
  indicator for measuring backlash and I think you're gonna need a torque wrench 
  that does inch/lbs instead of foot/lbs.  I thought there was a decent 
  article on this very subject in either Car Craft or Chevy High Performance 
  within the past few months.  I'll try to find it.  In the mean time, 
  check these out to get your feet wet.
   
  http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/2949/
   
  http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
   
  -Dave
   
   
   
   
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 8:58 
PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
I would not recommend you take it apart if you have not done it 
before.  As stated previously, you can do more harm than good.
 
Tom

RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end, loong post

[tigergutt]

Hi,

Many people step away from rear-end work because of the difficulty and because of
the cost of the tools involved.
The job is not easy and the $$ loss is huge if it goes wrong but its for sure doable.

you'll need the following tools to get the job done:
a torque wrench that does in/lbs (this looks like a screwdriver and costs around
$100/200)
a torque wrench that does ft/lbs.
A long tube with a bracket on to hold the yoke when you torque the pinion nut and a
long ½" or 3/4" torque arm (is it called that?)
you need a hydraulic press to press the bearings on the pinion and on the carrier
(here its smart to put the pinion in a lathe and sand down the black coating,
because you are most probably going to take the inner bearing off a couple of times
to get the right amount of shims underneath it)
a dial indicator with stand

Job coes like this:
take the rearend off the car, blind plug all holes and clean/sandblast it and put it
on two jackstands (you will need three in total)and disassemble it completely.
it is smart to take out the wheelbearings at this point, they are hard to get out so
use some heat and a wanker (translated from Norwegian, I guess you call it sliding
hammer) use pressurized water and some heavy stuff to get it over-clean (also inside
the tubes)and dry it inside out with pressurized air, put some oil on the
bearing-areas right away or the will rust within the next minute.
at this point you can put the pinion bearing races in (not the seal yet)and start
measure up for the pinion depth set by the gear manufacturer once that is done press
the bearings on the carrier and install the ring gear and see if the gears goes good
together (I cant explain it but look at the spec sheet to get this right).
if its all ok at this point, put some grease on the pinion bearings and install the
pinion seal (with grease) then install the pinion with the crush sleeve, tighten the
pinion nut to zero gap and a tad more to get some preload, continue this until you
are one "pussy hair" (translated from Norwegian hehehe)from the specified torque,
take the pinion nut off and reinstall it using loctite and take to the indicated
torque spec (that last pussy hair). (this should be around 18/20 lb/in???).
if you get to tight, start over with a new crush sleeve and seal.

now put the carrier in with some shims and torque it down and measure backlash, take
it apart, move shims get closer,take it apart, move shims get closer
,take it apart, move shims get closer
,take it apart, move shims get closer
,take it apart, move shims get closer
,take it apart, move shims get closer
 and when you are done measure it at at least three points ond the ring gear to
check if its all ok.

Install new wheel bearings and seals (with grease),
Paint it black (I am sorry, but pink or red is not an option)
galvanize all bolts and brackets.
install your brakes, brake tubes etc
fill it with oil and one posi lube
install it in the car and drive it carefully for the first 500/1000miles, change
lube once more and try to break it :o)

If I did forget anything let me know and feel free to ask Q's

Ciao
André


A > Come on guys, we can do better than this, can't we?  :-)  While I've never
> built a rear either, I and others on the list have built engines and
> transmissions, taken the bodies off their frames, etc... and I can't imagine
> a rear is THAT hard.
>
> At minimum, you'll need a mountable dial indicator for measuring backlash
> and I think you're gonna need a torque wrench that does inch/lbs instead of
> foot/lbs.  I thought there was a decent article on this very subject in
> either Car Craft or Chevy High Performance within the past few months.  I'll
> try to find it.  In the mean time, check these out to get your feet wet.
>
> http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/2949/
>
> http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
>
> -Dave
>
>
>
>
>   -Original Message-
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 8:58 PM
>   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] How to rebuild a 12-bolt rear?
>
>
>   I would not recommend you take it apart if you have not done it before.
> As stated previously, you can do more harm than good.
>
>   Tom
>

RE: [Chevelle-list] I'm back & stuff for sale...

[tigergutt]

Hey Herb,

congrats with your new parts !

what is the reason of your change of trans from the Richmond to the keisler ??

Ciao
André

> Actually, Christmas has been a slow and painful process.  I planned early
> last summer to do these changes over the coming winter so I had to get the
> parts.  I originally wanted the 600 because it's rated for 600hp/600lbs but
> I didn't like the gear ratios it had.  The 500 ratios are 3.27, 1.98, 1.34,
> 1.0, 0.68 compared to the 600 with 2.87, 1.89, 1.28, 1.0, 0.64 (0.82
> optional).  After talking with the Keisler guy, he said the 500 would be
> more than stout enough to handle what I am building.  He did make a good
> point - 95% of the time the tranny won't be feeling the peak output of the
> engine and when it does, it's only for short periods of time.  It's rated
> for 550hp/550lbs and I'm expecting (according to Dyno 2000) to be in the
> 550-600hp range.  If everything goes well I'd like to run the engine on a
> dyno before I put it back in the Elky so I know for a fact what it's got.
>
> Herb
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Clint Hooper
> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 6:38 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I'm back & stuff for sale...
>
>
> My,my! Christmas has come early to the Lumpp household. :-)) You spent
> some serious buckeroos there,my friend.
> Any particular reason you chose the TKO-500 over the 600? Or,did you buy it
> before the 600 became available?
> Clint Hooper
> H&H Custom,owner
> A.C.E.S. #1650
> 1969 El Camino Protourer
> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
> - Original Message -
> From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
>> Hi Clint, actually I got the TKO-500 and AFR heads along with a Crower
>> hydraulic roller, gear drive, Jesel shaft rockers, and a TCI Rattler
>> balancer to name some of the new parts.
>> Herb Lumpp
>> http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> Herb,did you get a TKO-600 and AFR heads?
>> Clint Hooper
>> H&H Custom,owner
>> A.C.E.S. #1650
>> 1969 El Camino Protourer
>> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>
>>
>> > Hi Guys (and gals),
>> > I just got home (Sunday) from nine days of work in Hawaii and Guam, no
>> > really, I went there for work!  Did I miss anything Chevelle related
> while
>> I
>> > was away?
>> > Anyway, much to my surprise, my new Keisler 5 speed arrived yesterday,
> so
>> I
>> > figured before I started to list things on eBay, I thought I'd see if
>> anyone
>> > here was interested in a slightly used Richmond 6 speed and/or a set of
>> iron
>> > rectangular port big Chevy heads, casting #14096188.  If interested
> email
>> me
>> > off list for details.
>> > Thanks.
>> > Herb Lumpp
>> > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>