Re: [Chevelle-list] Questions on 12 bolt rear...
Thank you very much for the info... Now off to find one in California... Thomas 69 yenko From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Questions on 12 bolt rear... Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 02:14:49 EDT In a message dated 5/1/2005 2:06:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 1. what years of Chevy's can I use for the rear without modification? 68-72 A bodies (Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Skylark/GS, LeMans/GTO, Cutlass/442 2. What is the width of the rear end from backing plate to backing plate? not 100% sure, but I can measure the spare I have in my garage tomorrow 3. What does changing a non-posi or wronged geared posi to a right geared posi. I.e. I find a 12 bolt with a non posi, 3.08. I want to change it to a 3.55 posi. What is involved? Buying a differential, gears, and all the bearings which will cost you about $700 in parts plus you need to have the know how to do it. If you have never done it, I recommend having someone that knows what they are doing build it. 4. Do I need to look for a certain part # or #'s that are the strongest rear? Nope, all the same 5. Any rear ends that I should avoid? Yes, the Olds 12 bolt. It has a 12 bolt cover and a 10 bolt differential, not a true 12 bolt 6. How much is a reasonable price for a rear end used/new? With posi/without posi? Depends on where you live, I've been seeing rears going anywhere from $500 and up, if it's a posi, double it 7. Are there any reliable vendors in San Jose, CA that I should frequent? ie. GM Sports? As far as what kind of parts? OPG is in Long Beach, True Connections is near Moreno Valley 8. Does the driveshaft length change between a 10 bolt and a 12 bolt? Yes, the U Joints are also different Tom
[Chevelle-list] tuning
Is there such a thing as tuning a car for maximum mpg by maybe sacrificing elsewhere such as power or acceleration? My gas-eater will be going on a 5000 mile journey this summer and I'm trying to do what I can to avoid seriously depleting the world's oil supplies (not to mention my wallet)..
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine running...
Thanks Rick I saved the file to my documents too and that worked fine got all 11 sec too. - Original Message - From: "Rick Schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 5:14 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine running... Got the full 11 seconds :D But I had to save the file to my documents. Would not open directly from the link. Took about that long to downlosd. On 5/2/05, Herb Lumpp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi guys, > > If you go to my index page or the engine page, there's a link to a short > video of my engine running. The file is 4 mb so it might take some time to > load. > > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > > Herb > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine running...
Got the full 11 seconds :D But I had to save the file to my documents. Would not open directly from the link. Took about that long to downlosd. On 5/2/05, Herb Lumpp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi guys, > > If you go to my index page or the engine page, there's a link to a short > video of my engine running. The file is 4 mb so it might take some time to > load. > > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > > Herb > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
RE: [Chevelle-list] Car Washing
Remember how your water softener works. You're using coarse rock salt(NaCl) to remove the heavy minerals. You do have extra salt added to your water. If your water has large amounts of calcium...Water softening is not the best for Calcium. My water well, has twice the (NaCl)salt content the city water supply has. It's still acceptable for drinking. My well water also has huge amounts of minerals and calcium...and due to the already high salt content, adding more salt(Softening) does no good!! If you want pure water try distilled or better yet. Reverse Osmosis(RO) water. Dan Mascheck -Original Message- From: Rick Etling [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 8:14 AM To: 'Rick Schaefer'; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Car Washing My house has a water softener and it still leaves the water spots. Have used Mr. Clean and it does do a better job and yes it does seem to go through the rinse cartridges more then I would think it should. But I guess that is the price we pay for an easier car wash. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 9:31 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Car Washing I've tried the Mr Clean car washing system and it worked fine. EXCEPT that the water around here is so hard that the rinse cartridge lasts only for 1 1/2 washes. I saw an RV water softener on eBay ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=454511109 8&category=50070 ) and if you read the hype, softened water will do everything the Mr Clean system does. So, do any of you rinse your car with household softened water? Does it dry without water spots?Seems like over time the eBay softener would be a bunch cheaper to run. Along those lines, is the Mr Clean rinse cartridge a water softener? Do you think its possible to recharge the cartridge? -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 5/2/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 5/2/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine running...
Hey Herb Sounds good for 3 seconds then the sound drops off no sound at all. FYI Paul 67 elky ACES Az Chvl club - Original Message - From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle List" Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 4:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Engine running... > Hi guys, > > If you go to my index page or the engine page, there's a link to a short > video of my engine running. The file is 4 mb so it might take some time to > load. > > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > > Herb > > > > >
[Chevelle-list] Engine running...
Hi guys, If you go to my index page or the engine page, there's a link to a short video of my engine running. The file is 4 mb so it might take some time to load. http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm Herb
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
I know, but there is so little time to fool around with this. I just took another spin using the "adjust and test drive" method. Seems to be very good now. I don’t think I heard any pinging at all and the pickup on takeoff is back to normal. This is still with regular gas. One variable at a time... John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dave Studly Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 1:11 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold I think you really need to get a timing pointer and timing tape. Less than $20 for both. At 2.45 a gallon. It’s less than a half-tank. There’s nothing harder than trying to guess. -Dave
Re: [Chevelle-list] Non Chevelle - '79 Chevy truck plug wires
Yes it will run, if you moved all wires over one post, all you did was change the timing. Keith Replaced the HEI plug wires on my '79 Chevy Truck and yes during the replacement had just about all them off the dist trying to match up the best lengths except I kept #5 and #7 on since they were the obvious shortest. The top of the dist has a plug wire retainer which showed #5 and #7 moved just one position counter clockwise from where I swear they were originally. So I repositioned all the wires to fit the numbers on this retainer - which can only go on one way. The truck starts buy shakes pretty bad. I have the correct firing order and did not change any positioning of the distributor itself. My question: can an engine run - even though poorly - if the plug wires are mounted one position counter clockwise? I have looked on the web - with no luck - for a drawing / picture showing where the # plug wire showed go on the HEI dist cap. The engine is a 350. Thanks for your help. Krister
Re: [Chevelle-list] Non Chevelle - '79 Chevy truck plug wires
I can't answer for sure but I would think yes. I changed wires on my '70 Camaro years ago and had two wires transposed; the 307 ran but not very smooth. Rich - Original Message - From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 2:52 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Non Chevelle - '79 Chevy truck plug wires Replaced the HEI plug wires on my '79 Chevy Truck and yes during the replacement had just about all them off the dist trying to match up the best lengths except I kept #5 and #7 on since they were the obvious shortest. The top of the dist has a plug wire retainer which showed #5 and #7 moved just one position counter clockwise from where I swear they were originally. So I repositioned all the wires to fit the numbers on this retainer - which can only go on one way. The truck starts buy shakes pretty bad. I have the correct firing order and did not change any positioning of the distributor itself. My question: can an engine run - even though poorly - if the plug wires are mounted one position counter clockwise? I have looked on the web - with no luck - for a drawing / picture showing where the # plug wire showed go on the HEI dist cap. The engine is a 350. Thanks for your help. Krister
Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
Sears has a timing light that does both total and initial timing for about $65. Nice tool. To confuse you more. I just solved some similar problems with my BB w/ mechanical advance. After you check the timing and it is right - and if you still have problems - make sure your carb is functioning properly and fuel pressure is adequate. I ended up spending days playing with both a mechanical and vacuum distributor thinking that was my source of backfire and engine miss when it really was fuel related. I rebuilt the fuel pump, and changed the pressure regulator and the 10 year old Edelbrock 750 AFB. It runs great now. Larry Williams 65SS 427 BB - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 10:20 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold Thanks Wayne. I'll check that out. JN
[Chevelle-list] Non Chevelle - '79 Chevy truck plug wires
Replaced the HEI plug wires on my '79 Chevy Truck and yes during the replacement had just about all them off the dist trying to match up the best lengths except I kept #5 and #7 on since they were the obvious shortest. The top of the dist has a plug wire retainer which showed #5 and #7 moved just one position counter clockwise from where I swear they were originally. So I repositioned all the wires to fit the numbers on this retainer - which can only go on one way. The truck starts buy shakes pretty bad. I have the correct firing order and did not change any positioning of the distributor itself. My question: can an engine run - even though poorly - if the plug wires are mounted one position counter clockwise? I have looked on the web - with no luck - for a drawing / picture showing where the # plug wire showed go on the HEI dist cap. The engine is a 350. Thanks for your help. Krister
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
Thanks Wayne. I'll check that out. JN
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
I think you really need to get a timing pointer and timing tape. Less than $20 for both. At 2.45 a gallon. It’s less than a half-tank. There’s nothing harder than trying to guess. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:47 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold Well, she's definitely running like crap w/ the timing advanced. Significantly less power on takeoff and even more pinging. So, I think it’s the gas and not the distributor. I can try a couple of things for better spark like new plugs, cap and rotor. I saw regular going for $2.45/gal at one place today. Eek. John Nasta
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
Well, she's definitely running like crap w/ the timing advanced. Significantly less power on takeoff and even more pinging. So, I think it’s the gas and not the distributor. I can try a couple of things for better spark like new plugs, cap and rotor. I saw regular going for $2.45/gal at one place today. Eek. John Nasta
Re: [Chevelle-list] 396 Block
I'm pretty sure my 96 block is 71 or 2. It has 2 bolt mains and pushed the car to 10.33 in the 1/4..Of course the Procharger helped. Walt http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sunday, May 1, 2005 6:31 pm Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 396 Block > In a message dated 5/1/2005 4:31:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hey guys, >I recently picked up 2 396 blocks to go have checked > out at a > machine shop. They both are 3999290 castings with suffix codes > CTB. Works out > to be a 1972 402 in a Chevelle, impala, or one other I cant > remember. Anyway, > I was wonder what your thoughts might be on whether or not its > worth buying > one of them. I’ve heard blocks after 1970 or 71 have a lower > level of nickel > and crack easier? Is it worth having the machine work done to one > and build up > an engine with it or should I look for an earlier block? Thanks > –RJ > I've used newer blocks than that for high performance > applications, both have > held up good so far. If it's the right price grab it, big blocks > are getting > more and more scarce. > > Tom >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Age of chevelle owner
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I bought my first car a 72 chevelle and i'm 15 gong on 16. Can't even drive it yet! > I'm 38 (39 this August). My Elky is my first A-body > and I've had it since late '97. It's hard to > believe that much time has passed! > > Herb > > > "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi Jason, > > > > I'm 34 and have owned my '66 for 8 years. When I > > bought her, I knew it was a Chevelle, but it was > like > > no Chevelle I'd ever seen before- I was used to > the > > '68-'72 model.. I was sold when I saw the shape > of > > the tailights.. > > > > Jim Brady III > > '66 Malibu > > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jbiii/my66.htm > > '59 Corvette > > http://59registry.com > > > > > > --- Jason Fiegel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I am 31 have had my 69 chevelle for three years. > I > > > have also been building chevelle models since I > was > > > 12, built plenty of others but the chevaliers > are > > > still my favorites, I think that's what made me > want > > > one so bad as an adult. > > > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
John you can buy one of those after market cheep chromed timing tabs from most any aftermarket part shops.for a few $ . it use two of the timing chain cover bolts to attach it . Gl Wayne - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 8:11 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold AFAIK there is nothing on the cover. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dave StudlySent: Monday, May 02, 2005 7:51 AMTo: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold Do you at least have a pointer for TDC? If so, then just get a timing tape for your balancer. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John NastaSent: Monday, May 02, 2005 7:42 AMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold I have a timing light. The problem is that there is no gauge on the timing cover. I guess they didn't have those in 1958. Right now it starts fine cold. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:19 AMTo: Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold In a message dated 5/1/2005 11:23:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: p.s. Rick says to see if advancing the timing all the way makes it hard to start when hot or causes hesitation on the pedal. If not, then maybe the distributor is off after all. I'm still going to see if premium makes a difference as well. JN It will, that always happens, even if the engine is cold. Advancing it that far will also cause the engine to run hot. I would disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing at 6 degrees advanced and see how it runs, then hook up the vacuum and get a total timing reading. If you don't have a timing light, you can also use a vacuum gauge and your ear to time it :-). Tom Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Car Washing
My house has a water softener and it still leaves the water spots. Have used Mr. Clean and it does do a better job and yes it does seem to go through the rinse cartridges more then I would think it should. But I guess that is the price we pay for an easier car wash. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 9:31 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Car Washing I've tried the Mr Clean car washing system and it worked fine. EXCEPT that the water around here is so hard that the rinse cartridge lasts only for 1 1/2 washes. I saw an RV water softener on eBay ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=454511109 8&category=50070 ) and if you read the hype, softened water will do everything the Mr Clean system does. So, do any of you rinse your car with household softened water? Does it dry without water spots?Seems like over time the eBay softener would be a bunch cheaper to run. Along those lines, is the Mr Clean rinse cartridge a water softener? Do you think its possible to recharge the cartridge? -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 5/2/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 5/2/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] Single vs Dual Plane manifolds
It depends on the cam and where the power band is. A dual plane manifold will generally provide more torque in the lower RPM range, but may limit top end HP (better for street use). Most racing engines that operate at top end most of the time will use a single plane manifold. I don't have cowl induction, so I can't comment on the clearance problem. Tom Tomlinson - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 3:00 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Single vs Dual Plane manifolds > I currently have an Edelbrock Dual Plane Performer RPM manifold on my 454 with a AFB style car. My car is a 70 Chevelle and I would like to make it look more original without loosing too much performance (actually I want to go faster if possible). I have the original Cowl Induction air cleaner but it won't fit under the hood with the current setup. I know that the air cleaner is made to fit on a Holley carb so I guess I'm going to have to eventually break down and buy oneIf I can find one that runs as good as the AFB ones. > > Do I also need to switch out my dual-plane manifold for a single-plane one? If so, is there one that won't hinder performance? I am assuming from everyone's postings that dual-plane ones are better. > > Other specs for my set-up: > 454 2 bolt main block (bored 30 over) > LS6 solid cam > 10.25:1 compression > Edelbrock square-port aluminum heads > Roller Rockers > HEI ignition > > Is anyone out there using a Cowl air cleaner with a dual-plane manifold? If so, what is the trick? > > Thanks for the help and information > > Steve > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
AFAIK there is nothing on the cover. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dave Studly Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 7:51 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold Do you at least have a pointer for TDC? If so, then just get a timing tape for your balancer. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 7:42 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold I have a timing light. The problem is that there is no gauge on the timing cover. I guess they didn't have those in 1958. Right now it starts fine cold. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:19 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold In a message dated 5/1/2005 11:23:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: p.s. Rick says to see if advancing the timing all the way makes it hard to start when hot or causes hesitation on the pedal. If not, then maybe the distributor is off after all. I'm still going to see if premium makes a difference as well. JN It will, that always happens, even if the engine is cold. Advancing it that far will also cause the engine to run hot. I would disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing at 6 degrees advanced and see how it runs, then hook up the vacuum and get a total timing reading. If you don't have a timing light, you can also use a vacuum gauge and your ear to time it :-). Tom Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] manual choke (Edelbrock carb)
Unfortunately the car is 30 miles away right now, so I don't know. I may go up to it tonight and if so, I'll let you know, and maybe take a picture. I'm also in the process of upgrading my distributor with an electronic module, and repositioning it. The previous owner had installed the distributor wrong, and the vacuum advance can is actually over a runner in the manifold (but just clears). A stock installation would have the can between the manifold and the valve cover on the passenger side. As long as the relative position of the rotor and cap don't change, I think you can put the vacuum advance can any where you want, limited by the teeth in the gear. There are 12 teeth in the distrubutor gear, so you could move your distributor in increments of 30 degrees to give you more clearance and adjustment for timing. Tom - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 11:24 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] manual choke (Edelbrock carb) Thanks Tom. Is the hole at the bottom front corner? That's where it seems like it should be. I guess I'm going to have to drill my own. Seems odd that a manual choke carb did not come with a hole to hook a choke cable to. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Tom TomlinsonSent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 10:34 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] manual choke (Edelbrock carb) My Edelbrock performer carb with manual choke came with a hole in the choke cam. All I did was hook up the existing manual cable to it and adjust the throw. Tom Tomlinson
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
Do you at least have a pointer for TDC? If so, then just get a timing tape for your balancer. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 7:42 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold I have a timing light. The problem is that there is no gauge on the timing cover. I guess they didn't have those in 1958. Right now it starts fine cold. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:19 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold In a message dated 5/1/2005 11:23:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: p.s. Rick says to see if advancing the timing all the way makes it hard to start when hot or causes hesitation on the pedal. If not, then maybe the distributor is off after all. I'm still going to see if premium makes a difference as well. JN It will, that always happens, even if the engine is cold. Advancing it that far will also cause the engine to run hot. I would disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing at 6 degrees advanced and see how it runs, then hook up the vacuum and get a total timing reading. If you don't have a timing light, you can also use a vacuum gauge and your ear to time it :-). Tom Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
I have a timing light. The problem is that there is no gauge on the timing cover. I guess they didn't have those in 1958. Right now it starts fine cold. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:19 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold In a message dated 5/1/2005 11:23:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: p.s. Rick says to see if advancing the timing all the way makes it hard to start when hot or causes hesitation on the pedal. If not, then maybe the distributor is off after all. I'm still going to see if premium makes a difference as well. JN It will, that always happens, even if the engine is cold. Advancing it that far will also cause the engine to run hot. I would disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing at 6 degrees advanced and see how it runs, then hook up the vacuum and get a total timing reading. If you don't have a timing light, you can also use a vacuum gauge and your ear to time it :-). Tom Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] Intake Manifolds
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dan McIntosh) > I'm looking for an intake manifold to replace the 2BBL unit on my 63 Impala. > The stock one has the oil filler tube in the front of the intake. Seeing as > how my Cal Custom valve covers have no hole to allow for adding oil, I would > love to be able to find an intake that keeps the tube. > Do any of the aftermarket intake have this hole, or am I stuck obtaining a > factory intake? Dan, Edelbrock has one they make with the spot where the hole goes. It comes undrilled and you have to do it yourself. Hope this link works: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/man_sbchev.html#262-400 Look for: Performer (up to 1986) #2101 I ended up buying an intake off ebay. Not too hard to find an older intake with the hole. But watch port sizes on any aftermarket manifold if that's a 283. Intake ports may be larger than head ports. I find that now-a-days when they say smallblock Chevy they're probably meaning a 350. Pete Geurds Douglassville, PA
[Chevelle-list] Single vs Dual Plane manifolds
I currently have an Edelbrock Dual Plane Performer RPM manifold on my 454 with a AFB style car. My car is a 70 Chevelle and I would like to make it look more original without loosing too much performance (actually I want to go faster if possible). I have the original Cowl Induction air cleaner but it won't fit under the hood with the current setup. I know that the air cleaner is made to fit on a Holley carb so I guess I'm going to have to eventually break down and buy oneIf I can find one that runs as good as the AFB ones. Do I also need to switch out my dual-plane manifold for a single-plane one? If so, is there one that won't hinder performance? I am assuming from everyone's postings that dual-plane ones are better. Other specs for my set-up: 454 2 bolt main block (bored 30 over) LS6 solid cam 10.25:1 compression Edelbrock square-port aluminum heads Roller Rockers HEI ignition Is anyone out there using a Cowl air cleaner with a dual-plane manifold? If so, what is the trick? Thanks for the help and information Steve
